Help!
- Thread starter IvanH
- Start date
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If you can handle a welder, you should be able to fix that. Lots of patience and a good hammer or two is a starting point. If it's only in these small areas it shouldn't be too hard to make patches.
Be mindful of whatever is underneath, like fuel or brake lines before you get too far into cutting out the rusty parts.
IMHO
Your first task is to grind, sand, wire wheel, sandblast, as much of the rust off as possible both inside and under the car.
Then cut away to good metal. You can use snips, Dremel, nibbler etc. but as mentioned before BE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE CUTTING.
Then if you can not get repo or used good patch panels starting beating on some flat stock. A sand bag will let you beat flat stock into a concave shape.
If you don't have welding skills there is panel bond adhesives that will outlive you if applied correctly and sealed and painted properly.
Unless you are restoring a Concorde car I do t see any reason to worry about perfection just longevity.
Your first task is to grind, sand, wire wheel, sandblast, as much of the rust off as possible both inside and under the car.
Then cut away to good metal. You can use snips, Dremel, nibbler etc. but as mentioned before BE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE CUTTING.
Then if you can not get repo or used good patch panels starting beating on some flat stock. A sand bag will let you beat flat stock into a concave shape.
If you don't have welding skills there is panel bond adhesives that will outlive you if applied correctly and sealed and painted properly.
Unless you are restoring a Concorde car I do t see any reason to worry about perfection just longevity.
You can reg pre made replacement panels. As said remove and treat all rust to prevent it coming back. If you can’t weld (and don’t want to learn) there are now automotive adhesives that can be used that are as strong.
PLYMOUTH - BARRACUDA - 1964-1966 - Auto Body Specialties
PLYMOUTH - BARRACUDA - 1964-1966 - Auto Body Specialties
Put the word out on this forum of you need for patch panels I'm sure there somebody on here that has a parts car that can cut out those sections and send them to you and your halfway to fixing your floors then all you need is tools to cut out the rusted areas and weld/glue in the patch panels
Beams
Well-Known Member
You can do it. I’m chopping away at it right now. I’m not saying you should follow my lead. Just saying it’s all doable.
I’m using an Eastwood MIG90. About the cheapest mig welder you could find.
www.forabodiesonly.com
I’m using an Eastwood MIG90. About the cheapest mig welder you could find.
Floor Pan Replacement Planning (67 up pans in 65 Dart)
I badly need to patch floors in my 1965 dart. Came across a full set of 67+ Laysons a body floor pans for a good price. I know they aren’t an exact fit, and especially because I have the 4 speed hump, will likely need extra massaging. However, it should be a decent start—I’ll take it one step at...
www.forabodiesonly.com
Thanks for the website Bogie! I like that approach. So I get rid of all rust and damage. Then i can use an adhesive in these panels to essentially glue them in place? What would you recommend for under that area to fill or seal the area?
Wife will simply divorce me if i buy those toys. Like Bogies idea on getting new panels. Expensive but might be worth it.
Beams
Well-Known Member
I’m in the same boat. I’m a bit of a diy dad too. Recycle cans and bottles to contribute to the car fund.
There are folks much smarter than me on here. Given the circumstances, I’d try to figure out how extensive the rust is. I don’t think you’d want to just glue the new panels in. If the rust isn’t too extensive, and you’re unable to weld, then you may be better off putting the carpet back down, or with a temporary fix like fiberglass, or a smaller patch with sheet metal screws.
Plenty of threads here to research, but the floors are part of the structure of the car. I waited for a few years, knowing that my floors were bad. Saved up to buy the welder and saved up for the pans.
A car mentor of mine just recently told me that license plate patches are okay, but if you’re going to go further and fix it, then you fix it right.
Beams
Well-Known Member
At the end of the day, here to support you as a fellow DIY Dad.
The panels from ABS fit good I had to do them on my Dart. Basically remove as much rust as you can by physical means then use something like Eastwood rust converter/neutralizer I then used a chassis pain to cover everything I could get it on.
I then welded mine in but most newer cars are using some sort of panel bond over welding.
Not to be a Debbie Downer, but seeing the rust you have it would be intelligent to look for it elsewhere. Rust does not travel alone so if your floors are shot there could be more lurking about. Hopefully not but you never know.
73Charger318
Member Rt 66 Mopar Club
Seeing this I feel blessed to have found this under the carpet of my 1965.
Good news on the block this week too. Freeze plugs had only rusted out and were laying inside the block. Block was fine. Cleaned up only needing to go .020 on the new pistons. Sounds like I'm going to be one of those weird guys that rebuilds a 273. lol
Good news on the block this week too. Freeze plugs had only rusted out and were laying inside the block. Block was fine. Cleaned up only needing to go .020 on the new pistons. Sounds like I'm going to be one of those weird guys that rebuilds a 273. lol
Time for a new wife.
A lot depends if you can weld and bend and cut metal.
While partial and full floors are available (most of the time) through AMD, the level of correctness is the other factor.
What I have done in the past is to grind away the rotted metal until good metal is found at the same thickness as or as close to what it was new. Find the same thickness metal at the local hardware store or metal shop wholesale place and proceed to make templates.
Cut the metal to size and shape close enough to butted it in and grind the weld down smooth.
The hardest part (for me!) is the curved section n the corner of the floor. I have t figured that one out yet as that’s my next issue to contend with. The replacement metal problem I have is the car is a ‘79 Dodge. No one makes metal for it.
While partial and full floors are available (most of the time) through AMD, the level of correctness is the other factor.
What I have done in the past is to grind away the rotted metal until good metal is found at the same thickness as or as close to what it was new. Find the same thickness metal at the local hardware store or metal shop wholesale place and proceed to make templates.
Cut the metal to size and shape close enough to butted it in and grind the weld down smooth.
The hardest part (for me!) is the curved section n the corner of the floor. I have t figured that one out yet as that’s my next issue to contend with. The replacement metal problem I have is the car is a ‘79 Dodge. No one makes metal for it.
You might be surprised by what you can accomplish with a ball peen hammer and a good bit of patience.
Thanks, that’s my plan. I have the same issue he has on my Magnum.
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