Dan the man
Well-Known Member
years ago I didn't double check anything. But I know better now
Hot 340/418 street/strip build
- Thread starter Mean416
- Start date
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ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS double check all critical clearances. Machining is definitely expensive. This block required quite a bit of rework on this last go around. Between decks requiring correction, the correction on the bores, and the rebalancing required on the reciprocating assembly, I was north of $2k in machining. You bet your *** I'll still check all bearing clearances, piston bore clearances, thrust end play, and everything else.
Hey guys.
So what are you recommending in general for basic oil system prep? I'm not really interested in major mods unless it's really warranted. I've seen the oiling mods thread and a lot of that seems to go pretty far. What would you guys say are the key things to address on an engine that most likely will never see the high side of seven grand?
For instance... grinding casting flash away around the cam openings. What does this achieve, exactly?
It's no worthy that I did have the machinist set up rod and main clearances on the loose side. I can't remember The exact number but if I remember correctly it was plus 0.001 from standard on both rod and mains.
So what are you recommending in general for basic oil system prep? I'm not really interested in major mods unless it's really warranted. I've seen the oiling mods thread and a lot of that seems to go pretty far. What would you guys say are the key things to address on an engine that most likely will never see the high side of seven grand?
For instance... grinding casting flash away around the cam openings. What does this achieve, exactly?
It's no worthy that I did have the machinist set up rod and main clearances on the loose side. I can't remember The exact number but if I remember correctly it was plus 0.001 from standard on both rod and mains.
Not a big update but it's a step I always dread. General cleanup and prep for painting the block. Historically I have pressure washed and scrubbed with soapy water, but this time I did things a bit different. I got a bunch of brake cleaner to get things initially cleaned up, then used a solvent sprayer to finish cleaning and blowing everything out. I have to say I think this is the best approach. No worries about flash rusting of machined surfaces. Taped up the key machined surfaces once dried. I'll put the oil pan on for painting.
Noteworthy how much stuff comes out when you use a set of engine cleaning brushes. You can see all the crud that came out in the drip pans below.
Initial after brake cleaner:
The solvent sprayer I used. Worth every penny.
Block taped up and ready for painting:
Noteworthy how much stuff comes out when you use a set of engine cleaning brushes. You can see all the crud that came out in the drip pans below.
Initial after brake cleaner:
The solvent sprayer I used. Worth every penny.
Block taped up and ready for painting:
I'm gonna try to get the block and some other parts painted today.
This is the cam I'm planning on running (I already have a matched set of cam/lifters/springs).
I figure it's enough cam to pretty much max out the ootb Edelbrock heads. And also enough to take advantage of ported heads in the future. Plus with that tight LSA it ought to sound really rowdy, which is what I want.
My converter is 4200/4500 flash. Do you guys think I should have it adjusted to match this cam?
This is the cam I'm planning on running (I already have a matched set of cam/lifters/springs).
I figure it's enough cam to pretty much max out the ootb Edelbrock heads. And also enough to take advantage of ported heads in the future. Plus with that tight LSA it ought to sound really rowdy, which is what I want.
My converter is 4200/4500 flash. Do you guys think I should have it adjusted to match this cam?
justinp61
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I trust my machine shop, but I measure everything before assembly. It could save a lot of heartburn later, cash too.
Well got the key parts primed up today. Using summit brand epoxy primer and catalyst, 1:1 ratio. Seemed to lay down pretty good considering I'm absolutely not an auto paint professional. I'm gonna be using the battleship gray for finishing, so it'll actually look similar to how it does now.
Before (I have the same polished fabbed valve covers everyone else has. So I decided to paint them. Same for the intake, water pump housing, and timing cover):
After primer:
It's a bit orange peely but not terrible for engine parts.
Before (I have the same polished fabbed valve covers everyone else has. So I decided to paint them. Same for the intake, water pump housing, and timing cover):
After primer:
It's a bit orange peely but not terrible for engine parts.
Be sure to paint the parts in the primers window, or you might have to scuff everything, for it to adhere correctly. Primer usually has a window of 24 hrs.
I use a lot of Summit name brand stuff, along with Mancinni Racing.
Dave
I use a lot of Summit name brand stuff, along with Mancinni Racing.
Dave
your
doing a nice job. I'm following this thread.
Dave
doing a nice job. I'm following this thread.
Dave
dusterbing the peace
FABO pyrite member
If it’s going to be a bracket car I’d recommend having the converter adjusted as I’d imagine the new setup is quite a bit a different. But, I also don’t know how soon you might end up putting the heads or putting spray on it as that’ll necessitate yet another re-flash.
Just my $1/50.
Well, laid down a couple coats of the summit battle ship gray single stage. I have to say I'm pretty pleased with the outcome. Flattened out pretty good once it was wet. Glossier than I expected (not a bad thing though) This ought to look pretty cool when it's done.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
Cam is kinda similar to mine. But a bit longer duration wise and lift wise.
Yes, it will have a very nice chop to it.
Will want convertor to flash higher, imo around 5 k, likely more like 52-5400 optimally. Mine is only 4900-5000 but I think it’s closer than I initially thought it was, based on 60 foot, car weight and finish line rpm.
What all else is the combo, car weight, gear, tire, etc.
I can almost guarantee she is going to wheeze on ya with stock Eddie head good bit before you get to the finish line.
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I honestly don't know a lot about the car yet, I've had it awhile but I really haven't investigated it too much.
It's been pretty stripped down, is caged and back halved with pretty monsterous back tires. It has a ladder bar setup and a braced housing Ferd 9" rear. Appears to have aftermarket axles. I don't know the gearing yet and I expect I'll need to update that.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
340? I like 340...! 
Yep. Me too. But I like all sbm!340? I like 340...!
Just get it running and go have FUN.
Little update.
Got all the rings file fit, can either run spray or boost with this setup.
Got out the handy dandy dial bore gage and checked out the bores and main oil clearances. Running loose at .0035 clearance (as designed) on the mains. Piston to bore clearances are a little tighter than id like though.
Bearings (full groove mahle) installed, crank (scat 4" stroke forged unit) installed. Crank spins very smoothly and easily. Still need to verify end play.
Got all the rings file fit, can either run spray or boost with this setup.
Got out the handy dandy dial bore gage and checked out the bores and main oil clearances. Running loose at .0035 clearance (as designed) on the mains. Piston to bore clearances are a little tighter than id like though.
Bearings (full groove mahle) installed, crank (scat 4" stroke forged unit) installed. Crank spins very smoothly and easily. Still need to verify end play.
So I had a little bit of time today to work on this.
Got the rings installed and the rods prepped. Measured the oil clearance and it's 0.003 on the money across all 8. Note that all pistons are numbered with direction indicated. Don't ask me why I think this is important
Gratuitous photo of the last 4.080" piston and rod getting knocked in.
Pic of the assembled bottom end...
Annnnd from the topside...
Got the rings installed and the rods prepped. Measured the oil clearance and it's 0.003 on the money across all 8. Note that all pistons are numbered with direction indicated. Don't ask me why I think this is important
Gratuitous photo of the last 4.080" piston and rod getting knocked in.
Pic of the assembled bottom end...
Annnnd from the topside...
Coming along nicely!
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
I can recommend this place to do a nice job cnc porting your Eddie heads.
Know several guys who swear by them
KG Engines
Know several guys who swear by them
KG Engines
Thanks for the recommendation! I'll certainly get in touch with them at the right time. As of right now though head porting isn't in the budget so I'll have to be happy with an asthmatic stroker maxing out at 450hp.
It'll make for a fun upgrade though in the future. That'll be a 100 HP boost, with the cam I'm running.
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