How did nitrous get such a bad rep...?

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I think it got its name as a cheater because people would hide it and either not disclose it or say they didn't have it. But it was hard to hide a blower or a turbo.
 
LO23M8B said:
Only 2 left in stock!
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You would have to have a mother tank for this for sure.. $... Now you're usually over $500 for 30 horsepower LOL... Personally I would spend my $500 getting 30 horsepower some other way LOL...
 
We should start a poll. How long will Jpar’s first nitrous engine last? This could get good.
 
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Oh and the bonneville car, after the record was set, we stuck the big pills in it and went for broke. And that’s excactly what happened. It backfired and blew the plastic intake apart. It was great. First pic is just after they put the fire out. Second pic is what’s left of the intake. Call it a tuning error, call it part failure, whatever. The end result is the same.
 
j par said:
With the example I gave of a cheap turbo setup (I don't think an expensive blow through carb was included in that) and the example you gave of a nitrous setup cost wise, I would like to address this "myth" that nitrous is one "cheap horsepower" and "easy"... "BULLCRAP!!"
I strongly believe this is why people blow their engines up.. someone don't know nothing about it buys some generic kit and think he's going to set the world on fire... First the generic kit comes with nothing for the fuel side except a fuel solenoid... Not knowing any better just puts a t fitting in his fuel line after the pump (hopefully after the pump and not before LOL) and runs it to the fuel side solenoid... Easy... (Likely improper fuel pressure, no fuel pressure gauge, no low pressure cutoff switch, no filter, definitely running whatever octane gas is in the tank, ECT...)
Most generic kits don't come with a pressure gauge for the nitrous bottle, so who knows what the pressure is???!!..
Most kits only come with a full throttle activation switch which means any time you're at full throttle it activates both solenoids or should... Hopefully this cheap kit comes with an arming switch so you can shut that off...
And the most important thing to keep your motor from blowing up is never addressed in one of these cheap kits..
Timing retard... If you're smart enough to take this into consideration without a timing retard mechanism of some sort you're going to have to adjust your distributor absolutely every time you use nitrous... Or continuously try and drive around with retard timing..
I would say if you're going to do it right A good rule of thumb would be to double at the very least the cost of one of those cheap kits... Long before the bottle is filled... and once you accumulate this cheap kit and all the stuff to make it work right if you think it's just as easy as slapping a bottle in the trunk in my opinion you've lost your marbles....
Did someone mention the price of a Purge kit? LOL...
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Some valid points, but some I believe are exaggerated. Let's say I agree with all the precautionary extras on a serious use with big horsepower gains. then we can move onto why I don't run all those extra parts that add cost.

First, a pressure gauge on the bottle fitting tells you pressure only. Does nothing for bottle liquid content, which is only accurately measured in weight. A 10 pound bottle carries 10 pounds of liquid nitrous. That same bottle that is 5 pounds light is about half full. Also, generally speaking, nitrous bottle pressure will be about 10psi for every 1 degree of fahrenheit of bottle temperature. So a 90 degree bottle can pretty safely assume a 900psi bottle pressure, given a decent amount of remaining liquid. That's why you generally heat the bottle to 90 degrees, give or take, depending on your tune. Now, it is easier to read pressure from the driver seat when using a purge system to get back down to 900psi if the temp/pressure has gone too high.

Now, purge kits. The reason I don't use a purge kit is because on a 250 horsepower or lower factory jetting tune up it's simply not worth the cost to me. I already set my bottle temperature before I go to make a run, so only benefit would be to purge the expanded gas out of the feed line all the way to the solenoid. To that, I just manually crack the line loose at the solenoid or do a quick dry hop with the system activated.

Next, teeing into the existing fuel line. Fuel system needs are basically based on your expected fuel consumtion of the entire packaged, correct? If I am making three hundred horsepower naturally aspirated with a carb, why in the world would I run something like a giant Aeromotive 1000 series electric fuel pump. Screw that. Put on a mechanical fuel pump, using the stock fuel line setup, and just the make sure the fuel pump delivers enough galons per minute to maintain a 300hp setup. Now if I want to make 450hp with a carb, regardless if its with nitrous or naturally aspirated, I can still put on a nice mechanical fuel pump rated to supply enough fuel for that power level, then it is safe to tee into the existing fuel line going to the carb from the pump. And the pump only puts out 5 or 6 psi, or if I already have a regulator to get that pressure, I am good to go.

Fuel octane is another one that is often overrated. If that same 300hp naturally aspirated setup only has 9 to 1 static compression, and I have a camshaft that is keeping the cylinder pressure in a reasonable range, reasonable enough to run my same octane up to 450hp, then why not stick with that same fuel octane, since it's cheaper. It's the same thing as the cruise night guys that run racing fuel just so it has that smell when he pulls into the show. Not needed.

I would never bag on anyone for overbuilding the system if that is what they want to do and can afford it, but by repeatedly saying everyone running nitrous needs all this extra crap is just adding to the whole negative stigma surrounding nitrous use. I don't intend this overly long post to be negative toward anyone, but as it pertains to this particular thread, this is how I do it and why i do that way.
 
The question I wonder is what is a necessity and what can you get by without?
4150 hitman 4-bbl (100-150-200hp) with 10lb bottle
40040-10_l.jpg

to me these kits don't come with everything I think would be a need?
Junkyard motor spraying 150 shot max
Fuel pressure shut off switch
bottle heater (hahahaha lets just use a torch:wtf:)
purge valve
rpm window switch
timing controller (not a need but would be nice)
separate fuel tank
separate fuel pump
fuel return line
 
skep419 said:
The question I wonder is what is a necessity and what can you get by without?
4150 hitman 4-bbl (100-150-200hp) with 10lb bottle
View attachment 1715499699
to me these kits don't come with everything I think would be a need?
Junkyard motor spraying 150 shot max
Fuel pressure shut off switch
bottle heater (hahahaha lets just use a torch:wtf:)
purge valve
rpm window switch
timing controller (not a need but would be nice)
separate fuel tank
separate fuel pump
fuel return line
Click to expand...

Why would anyone need all those items?
I foot brake my turd and the nitrous is already on a full throttle switch that comes with the NOS cheater system. So mine never activates below 3000 rpm anyway, just by how it works.
Purge valve was covered; crack the line or do a short burst or dry hop. You don't need to purge 200hp kit every time you activate it. If it sits for a few hours I would purge, but for me, it one purge per day before first use. That was all it needed. Bracket racing I could see purging before every run, but not fun use and not on the street. Plus, since I don't purge before every use, I never experience the lean backfire everyone talks about when they say "blew up and engine." Mine is always a little extra rich from the lack of purge and the deadheaded fuel pressure.
Bottle heater is nice, but I run my car during the summer anyways so on a 80 degree day the sun keeps my car, and my bottle, plenty warm enough to stay around 850-900psi.
Timing controller. That's why I carried around a timing light. Set my 4 pin Mopar orange box ignition back 2 degrees for every 50hp added and run it.
Separate fuel tank definitely not needed. I run a really cheap second fuel system with a 5 psi deadheaded electric pump. I soldered a second fuel pickup tube into the stock fuel sending unit. Cost about $10 for supplies. Fuel return line; what's that? I would run a fuel return line if I needed more power, and needed a better tune, but my deadheaded system is super cheap and is self regulated by the pump. I could have done the tee off my mechanical fuel pump but I was scared the first time. Now I know how forgiving it really is.

Again, not bashing anyone. Just pointing out that most of the items everyone keeps mentioning are not NEEDED, they are wanted. My setup is not recommended. It's an example of how half-assed you can run nitrous and still never damage a part because of nitrous. Never even nipped a spark plug because I stayed with the really safe recommended jetting.
 
TT5.9mag said:
We should start a poll. How long will Jpar’s first nitrous engine last? This could get good.
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For the third maybe fourth time... I'm trying to keep this directed about the stigma around nitrous as compared to any other power adders... I have a thread talking about what I'm doing on my car and stuff like that... While my opinion comes from some of my research I've been doing I'm trying to keep my personal build on its own thread.. I've asked people to ask me questions over there and I'll freely answer them... Actually I've answered quite a few...
 
Bobzilla said:
Why would anyone need all those items?
I foot brake my turd...
Again, not bashing anyone. Just pointing out that most of the items everyone keeps mentioning are not NEEDED, they are wanted. My setup is not recommended. It's an example of how half-assed you can run nitrous and still never damage a part because of nitrous. Never even nipped a spark plug because I stayed with the really safe recommended jetting.
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I'm trying to blast on anybodys stuff either.. instead of counting how many times you said "if" or "needed" and totally for discussion... I think it would be agreed that if you have more to lose and your conscious of it that you would take more precautions.. also if you had an unrealistic view of your self-control (which I don't) it would be easy to take less precautions... I could see one of these basic kits and a low budget or junkyard motor and going for it being a suitable match.. on the other hand someone with a little bit of coin into their engine might consider a few extra precautions?...
 
skep419 said:
The question I wonder is what is a necessity and what can you get by without?
4150 hitman 4-bbl (100-150-200hp) with 10lb bottle
View attachment 1715499699
to me these kits don't come with everything I think would be a need?
Junkyard motor spraying 150 shot max
Fuel pressure shut off switch
bottle heater (hahahaha lets just use a torch:wtf:)
purge valve
rpm window switch
timing controller (not a need but would be nice)
separate fuel tank
separate fuel pump
fuel return line
Click to expand...
Yeah you can probably plum that all in within a few hours and be calling the junkyard for another motor within another hour..lol..
 
j par said:
Yeah you can probably plum that all in within a few hours and be calling the junkyard for another motor within another hour..lol..
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I'm pretty sure the 1st (aka worst) engine would be a sacrificial lamb. Just for fun (see what it will take) engine number 2 would have new rings gapped for the sauce and use the knowledge from engine number 1 to survive at least 2 hours.
 
skep419 said:
I'm pretty sure the 1st (aka worst) engine would be a sacrificial lamb. Just for fun (see what it will take) engine number 2 would have new rings gapped for the sauce and use the knowledge from engine number 1 to survive at least 2 hours.
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So you could ever have a sacrificial motor to learn from or spend the money on preventive parts to begin with?..
 
I've never used nitrous. From what everyone tells you it will cause your engine to blow. I would definitely try using a bone stock bottom end engine with upgraded intake, carb, ignition, fuel system. The spark plug heat range that was recommended. Timing set where it was recommended. WOT switch, fuel pressure safety switch, bottle heater. Even with these safety features people will tell me I'm going to blow it up.

Expectations engine will blow up
on the other hand what if it didn't
either way it sounds fun.
 
skep419 said:
I've never used nitrous. From what everyone tells you it will cause your engine to blow. I would definitely try using a bone stock bottom end engine with upgraded intake, carb, ignition, fuel system. The spark plug heat range that was recommended. Timing set where it was recommended. WOT switch, fuel pressure safety switch, bottle heater. Even with these safety features people will tell me I'm going to blow it up.

Expectations engine will blow up
on the other hand what if it didn't
either way it sounds fun.
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Call nitrous supply and ask for Mike thermos... Tell him you're thinking about trying nitrous on your car and let him know what you have and see if your mind doesn't change a little bit about how dangerous it is....
 
pittsburghracer said:
I guess that’s me as I deem it unnecessary at slower ET’s.
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pittsburghracer said:
To be fair I also deem it unnecessary to build a Stroker engine to run 11’s in an A body.
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Please tell me this isn't the ultimate answer to why nitrous has such a bad stigma as compared to turbos or supercharging or ProChargers?
With your vast drag racing experience I know you have more to add...
 
j par said:
Call nitrous supply and ask for Mike thermos... Tell him you're thinking about trying nitrous on your car and let him know what you have and see if your mind doesn't change a little bit about how dangerous it is....
Click to expand...

the car that will eventually be getting the nitrous is not even close to being ready.
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