How to Assemble the Front of a Small Block

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Howdy.
Just reading this thread and I have a couple of questions. I have a couple of engines here at the moment so I've just been out to check. Two of then have after market twin row roller chains and gears but no oil slinger, one has the standard chain and gears and an oil slinger. Is there room for the oil slinger to still fit with the wider bottom gear? Wonder why two people would have left it off?
The second question is wouldn't it make more sense to put the bolt with the lubricating feed hole on the lifter gallery side so it has a bit of presssure?
Cheers
 
Retroboy said:
Howdy.
Just reading this thread and I have a couple of questions. I have a couple of engines here at the moment so I've just been out to check. Two of then have after market twin row roller chains and gears but no oil slinger, one has the standard chain and gears and an oil slinger. Is there room for the oil slinger to still fit with the wider bottom gear? Wonder why two people would have left it off?
The second question is wouldn't it make more sense to put the bolt with the lubricating feed hole on the lifter gallery side so it has a bit of presssure?
Cheers
Click to expand...


As far as I've seen all engines left the factory with an oil slinger. Many people who work on the small blocks that don't know them very well, sometimes miss that when putting them back together.

Some engines came with the drip tab from the factory, some did not. I prefer it as it directs the oil to drip directly on the lower crank gear. The oil slinger helps "sling" or throw the oil around so it lubricates the chain.

I've seen many engines that shade tree mechanics have worked on where they plug the oil hole that the special bolt goes into.

Yes, the oil slinger will fit with the double roller timing chain. They came on factory 340's and had no problem...

The last question, for oiling with a hole in the oil galley plug. I've seen some people recommend drilling a small diameter hole in one to help feed oil. This can work, but I would be careful not to use to large of a drill as if the hole gets too big, it may bleed a little oil pressure off the system... The hole on the top passenger side where the special bolt with the hole goes into is designed to let the oil from the lifter valley drain onto the timing chain. The gravity fed oil is plenty to lubricate the chain, you don't need pressurized oil to spray on it. It wouldn't hurt if done properly, but not necessary. The stock way is good enough for most street engines...

I've taken apart a few "virgin" factory small blocks over the years and know how they go together. I wrote this section to pass along how they are supposed to go back together, because many of the ones that other people have worked on have not been done properly. I wanted to let people know how the factory did it so they can put it together the same way as it was meant to be put together by the manufacturer...
 
What I have seen so far personally is: 1965 poly 318(oil slinger, no oil drip tab, and no hollow hole in block to even use drilled through up left bolt, 4 bolts holding cam retainer plate). 1971 318(oil slinger, no oil drip tab, no drilled bolt, 4 bolts on cam retainer plate). 1972 318(oil slinger, drip tab, no drilled bolt, 3 bolts holding on cam retainer). 1973 360(oil slinger, oil drip tab, no drilled bolt, 3 bolts holding on cam retainer). None of these have plugs in the holes behind the cam retainer/thrust plate. I drilled the upper left bolt of my 1971 318 and added a drip tab today, then I poured oil in the lifter valley to see what would happen, took a picture of it.

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The bolt with the hole in it was only used on early motors and did not have the dripper then. The dripper was a more effectiv oiling method used on later motors and got its oil from the oil run off or overflow from the front cam bearing. The combination of the two is a good Idea and I have done this. But it is not nessasary. I have factory bolts like this and can also make them from Grade #8 bolts in the lathe if needed .Steve
 
Don't forget in all this, the pressurized front cambearing spills out quite some oil as well which comes out of both sides of the bearing.

I think the drip tab catches some of the oil too and puts it directly on top of the crank gear.

I would like to see how much oil exactly comes out of the front cambearing and through the trustplate.
I'm currently building a 360. When I'm getting close to buttoning it up maybe during priming I will try to film the front of the engine and find out.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
The bolt with the hole in it was only used on early motors and did not have the dripper then. The dripper was a more effectiv oiling method used on later motors and got its oil from the oil run off or overflow from the front cam bearing. The combination of the two is a good Idea and I have done this. But it is not nessasary. I have factory bolts like this and can also make them from Grade #8 bolts in the lathe if needed .Steve
Click to expand...
How early I wonder, as the above pictured 1971 318 and the industrial 1965 poly 318 I tore apart, had no hollow cam bolt, or a drip tab, just four regular cam retainer bolts. Maybe 273s were different, or it was a hit and miss thing from the factory?
 
I can only support seeing the bolt on 68 and later. Every 340 I ever had was equiped with the drilled bolt and that was alot of 340's over the years. I have seen motors that had cams put in where the bolt was not where it belonged. They probably did not even notice the hole.
 
krazykuda said:
Yes, I've seen that.

It is not shown here for two reasons.

1. I didn't install the timing chain and water pump. I believe that you put that on the damper after the timing chain cover goes in.
.
Click to expand...

Great info.

Just to for warn the new person to the front of the SBM. When you do put the water pump and front cover on. there are bolts that can go in to far and ruin a cylinder. i'm talking about the long ones that hold on the brackets and go into the water passages.
 
Before you glue on that timing cover, think of how much work there is going to be cleaning it, the next time you up open it up. If you're like me, I forgot the slinger and it was, take it apart time again. Just put it on both sides of the gasket. You can reuse the gasket.

Here is a nice product that you'll find at a real parts house. Permashield ! Gasket dressing and flange sealant. Nonhardening, It saved me!

Specially formulated for superior fluid resistance, this polyester urethane based gasketing compound withstands extreme temperature changes without hardening. Its non-setting, non-hardening character remains tacky even with rapid changes in temperature, enabling repeated assembly and disassembly of parts. Suitable as either a gasket maker or dressing.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...sistant-gasket-dressing-flange-sealant-detail
 
My engine had the galley plugs and the drip tap and that was it, no bolt with the hole or slinger. So while I had it apart, I did a mod, which I found on this website. Drilled a .015" hole in each galley plug and drilled two holes in the thrust plate, in front of the galley plugs, and added a slinger.


Something to think about.
Hope this helps.
 
krazykuda said:
That's a good mod... :thumbrig:
Click to expand...

I'll give you guys points for really giving this some thought, that's for sure.

Here are mine: I have built many smallblocks with some of these mods, all of these mods, and none of these mods. You know what difference I have noticed?

Not a single one, and I have had many opportunities to really study upon tear down for refreshing, updating, failure etc...

For anyone interested that has an electric fuel pump, remove the block off plate, start it up and bring RPM's up like you were giving it the ole Italian tune-up. Tell me how much oil finds its way onto everything and anything. Inside that cover at RPM's is a veritable oil tornado with NO slinger, NO tab, no extra oil holes. If you are using your small block like a police car/taxi cab with ton's of idle time then go for it. If not then don't worry about the extra oiling. It won't keep the chain alive any longer than without. J.Rob
 
Hi: Is the timing chain tensioner a "must install " item?? The reason I ask is that I bought a 273 Commando engine that was built by a reputable machine shop in Edmonton Alberta and there is no tensioner installed.
Thanks for listening.......Mopar Moe
 
mopar moe said:
Hi: Is the timing chain tensioner a "must install " item?? The reason I ask is that I bought a 273 Commando engine that was built by a reputable machine shop in Edmonton Alberta and there is no tensioner installed.
Thanks for listening.......Mopar Moe
Click to expand...

It's not necessary if you have a good double roller chain, but it helps keep the slack out and make the timing more consistent as the engine wears with age...

It's a good addition...
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I can only support seeing the bolt on 68 and later. Every 340 I ever had was equiped with the drilled bolt and that was alot of 340's over the years. I have seen motors that had cams put in where the bolt was not where it belonged. They probably did not even notice the hole.
Click to expand...

I pulled a 70 340 apart and it did not have that drilled bolt. What size is it supposed to be so when I go to reassemble I can install it?
 
mopar moe said:
Hi: Is the timing chain tensioner a "must install " item?? The reason I ask is that I bought a 273 Commando engine that was built by a reputable machine shop in Edmonton Alberta and there is no tensioner installed.
Thanks for listening.......Mopar Moe
Click to expand...
I got a motor at Shady dell years back. They had a tensioner on it. I ask Dave at HTA machine the reason for it. He said it keeps a cheap chain tight.. when we went to put the new chain on that shady dell supplied after their motor blew up. You needed the tensioner to take up the slack. Dave ordered the correct length to go with the cam and crank centerline difference. The chain was not cheap but 6 years later and its still no slack. A good machine shop knows where to get the correct parts to build a motor.
 
It is a very hard bolt. I made some from grade 5 in the lathe and they they broke very easy. Grade 8 work great.
 
mopar moe said:
Hi: Is the timing chain tensioner a "must install " item?? The reason I ask is that I bought a 273 Commando engine that was built by a reputable machine shop in Edmonton Alberta and there is no tensioner installed.
Thanks for listening.......Mopar Moe
Click to expand...

The one you want is from a mid 90's V6 Dakota. Cloyes 95387.

Cheap cheap from Rock Auto, $26 :).

9-5387.jpg
 
krazykuda said:
I just looked at some of my galley plug kits.

I also bought a few "complete block hardware" kits from Year One. MP part # P5249261AB.

It's a complete "block hardware kit" with all of the freeze plugs, galley plugs, distributor bushing, oil filter plate, gasket and "screw", and dowel pins. I'm sure it costs more than the "more basic" kit in the link from Mancini above, but I would try to see if Mancini would have a better price on it if I were doing a complete rebuild. Here's what the instruction sheet lists:


plug-kit-instr-a02-b2-jpg.1714749401

View attachment 1714749401

Of course, they don't list any part numbers or plug size in the list for the oil galley plugs, so I took one out of the kit and measured it for you. Here's what the smaller leading edge measures:


cup-plug-small-end-02-b-jpg.1714749402

View attachment 1714749402

Here's what the larger end measures at the edge of the plug (they are slightly tapered):


cup-plug-big-end-01-b-jpg.1714749403

View attachment 1714749403

The instruction sheet says that it is for all 64 - 92 LA engines and 92 - 03 magnum engines. I would go to a dealer and have them look it up. If they don't have a listing for the older LA engines, then have them look it up as an 02 or 02 magnum engine. They may still be available through the dealers....


If you can't find one, PM me and I can split a kit and help you out. I'm sure one of my engines I may do a quick refresh and not need to replace them.

They should be somewhere between 9/16" or 19/32" as a ball park figure. It's best to use the numbers shown in the pictures above to make sure that you get the right ones.
Click to expand...

This kit has been obsoleted by MP and is no longer available...
 
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