How to Assemble the Front of a Small Block

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krazykuda said:
Does your top passenger side bolt for the thrust plate have the oil hole in it?

If not, I would recommend just taking that one out so you get oil to your timing chain.

That is the oil feed hole for the timing chain that I pointed out on page one that needs to let oil get to the timing chain, so you don't want it blocked... You can get away without the drip tab and only three bolts, they built some from the factory that way.
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Believe me they came blocked from the factory! I never saw a bolt with a hole I it and ive seen lots of SBM. This is totally new to me. MT:wack:
 
No bolt with a hole in this 273 photo.My 84 318 had the bolt with the hole in the upper left. I guess you never know what you'll get with Ma Mopar....
 
If you use a two piece timing cover the assembly is easier. Plus you can change the timing chain and/or camshaft without dropping the oil pan.

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AndyF said:
If you use a two piece timing cover the assembly is easier. Plus you can change the timing chain and/or camshaft without dropping the oil pan.
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Damn, that's nice! Just wish it was a bit more affordable for normal budget build.
 
krazykuda said:
I just noticed that there were no pictures with the oil slinger installed. Here's how it goes:

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My engine has been torn down previously (built 415 not by me) that I am reassembling now and it has no plugs in the block, no bolt with through hole and no oil slinger. Seems like 3 strikes to me. Should I tear down my 340 and rob the oil slinger at least out of it? It does have the drip plate. Should this is a 360 Magnum based engine.
 
VTICH said:
My engine has been torn down previously (built 415 not by me) that I am reassembling now and it has no plugs in the block, no bolt with through hole and no oil slinger. Seems like 3 strikes to me. Should I tear down my 340 and rob the oil slinger at least out of it? It does have the drip plate. Should this is a 360 Magnum based engine.
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I would put the oil galley plugs in for sure.

Then run an oil slinger, if you don't want to take it out of your 340, then they can be bought cheaply enough...

http://www.manciniracing.com/oilslinger.html

I've seen factory applications without the bolt with the hole, they just left that hole open for oiling.

Or if you can drill a hole into a bolt, that could be another option, just be careful to drill it straight through and not break into the threads...

I've also seen some without the drip tab, but I like it to direct the oil onto the chain. The oil drip tab was NOS'ed about two years ago, see if you can find any, if not, you can get away without it and just the oil slinger.

I like to throw as much oil as I can to keep the wear to a minimum...
 
krazykuda said:
I would put the oil galley plugs in for sure.

Then run an oil slinger, if you don't want to take it out of your 340, then they can be bought cheaply enough...

http://www.manciniracing.com/oilslinger.html

I've seen factory applications without the bolt with the hole, they just left that hole open for oiling.

Or if you can drill a hole into a bolt, that could be another option, just be careful to drill it straight through and not break into the threads...

I've also seen some without the drip tab, but I like it to direct the oil onto the chain. The oil drip tab was NOS'ed about two years ago, see if you can find any, if not, you can get away without it and just the oil slinger.

I like to throw as much oil as I can to keep the wear to a minimum...
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Thanks. Just pulled the front off the 340 and doesn't have a slinger either. I guess I'l order 2, LOL! Meanwhile I can drill the hole and find some plugs too.
 
So listening to the advice posted above, I drilled the upper left bolt with a 3/32nd bit.Plan to make a drip tab too.
 
krazykuda said:
I would put the oil galley plugs in for sure.

Then run an oil slinger, if you don't want to take it out of your 340, then they can be bought cheaply enough...

http://www.manciniracing.com/oilslinger.html

I've seen factory applications without the bolt with the hole, they just left that hole open for oiling.

Or if you can drill a hole into a bolt, that could be another option, just be careful to drill it straight through and not break into the threads...

I've also seen some without the drip tab, but I like it to direct the oil onto the chain. The oil drip tab was NOS'ed about two years ago, see if you can find any, if not, you can get away without it and just the oil slinger.

I like to throw as much oil as I can to keep the wear to a minimum...
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Thanks again for the insight KrazyCuda, and the link to Mancini. I've ordered the replacement oil slingers from them (seemed like a great pricing). Already drill the camshaft retainer bolt and installed the 2 oil galley plugs.
 
VTICH said:
Thanks again for the insight KrazyCuda, and the link to Mancini. I've ordered the replacement oil slingers from them (seemed like a great pricing). Already drill the camshaft retainer bolt and installed the 2 oil galley plugs.
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You're welcome.

Thanks for using our advice. :cheers:

Your timing chain will last a long time this way.... :D
 
AndyF said:
If you use a two piece timing cover the assembly is easier. Plus you can change the timing chain and/or camshaft without dropping the oil pan.
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I like the looks of that, but... Is the only option for a water pump an electric one?
 
So the special bolt just drips oil from the lifter galley. I had not noticed the location where the hole comes through. Neat idea. Have a shot from the other side?
 
mguner said:
So the special bolt just drips oil from the lifter galley. I had not noticed the location where the hole comes through. Neat idea. Have a shot from the other side?
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No, only the pass (right) side hole goes through to the lifter galley for oil...
 
krazykuda said:
No, only the pass (right) side hole goes through to the lifter galley for oil...
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Ok I think I fat fingered GALLEY instead of Valley. I am under the impression that the bolt hole showing daylight is the one that you are putting the bolt with the hole in. You are not putting the bolt into one that would be under pressure correct? That is why I was asking about a shot from the other side (of the valley-rear) not left. I think I have a naked block to look at. I just didn't remember that hole going all the way through.
 
mguner said:
Ok I think I fat fingered GALLEY instead of Valley. I am under the impression that the bolt hole showing daylight is the one that you are putting the bolt with the hole in. You are not putting the bolt into one that would be under pressure correct? That is why I was asking about a shot from the other side (of the valley-rear) not left. I think I have a naked block to look at. I just didn't remember that hole going all the way through.
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Yes, put the bolt in the hole where the light shines through. I put the light there to show that the hole goes all the way through. The other side doesn't go through...

There is no pressure on the oil in the lifter valley, it just drains through...
 
Anything special about that bolt or is it just a grade 8 bolt with a certain sized hole straight through the middle?
 
I am just rebuilding my 318 year -84 and it has no bolt with hole thru it. I have cleaned all parts/bolts now and ther was no hole in any of them, not even goggled one.

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Mr Dart said:
I am just rebuilding my 318 year -84 and it has no bolt with hole thru it. I have cleaned all parts/bolts now and ther was no hole in any of them, not even goggled one.
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You can try drilling a hole in one and use it on the pass top...
 
I have just found this thread and must say it is very helpful as a first time builder ......In the second pic in the first page of this thread, do the 2 holes directly above the 2 thrust plate attachment holes which are lit up, need to have freeze plugs inserted or are they just left open??
Thanks
 
You couldn't put freeze plugs in those holes if you wanted to. They are just cast holes. They let air, oil, move around inside the block. Do not plug!
 
My engine is together and in the car. I read this post after assembly and to not remember a bolt with a hole in it for the cam retainer plate and there was no dripper tab on the bottom bolt. I am considering pulling the front of the engine off and looking it over. Can I pull the timing cover off without dropping the oil pan? I used a Comp double roller setup but it seemed to have a lot of slack. Thinking of adding a tensioner or changing to a true double roller setup as I guess the Comp setup is not all that good quality. My car is on a lift and I have good access to everything except dropping the oil pan. Advice here appreciated. Wondering how the chain got oiled without a hole in the galley bolt on the ones that were built that way? Great thread BTW-I sincerly wish I had read the whole thing before assembly.
Going backwards---------again-------------DR:-( I am bummed!
 
Yes, you can take the timing chain cover off without removing the oil pan.

Just cut the flat oil pan gasket off at the front of the block and then fit the new "ends" for that one with the new gaskets in the timing chain gasket kit. You will have to trim the tips off a little on the flat cork gaskets. Put the round rubber gasket on the oil pan first and use the rubber nubs/nipples to pull it in place with a pair of pliers or needle nosed pliers.

Then put the trimmed cork ends on the timing chain cover. Be careful not to knock the gaskets off location on the timing chain cover when you position it. Put the long bolts for the water pump/timing chain cover on first to help guide the cover, then use the two end bolts for the oil pan that go into the bottom of the timing chain cover next. You will have to fight the nubs for the rubber oil pan gasket, but it can be done, or trim the nubs after using them to pull the gasket in place on the oil pan.

Then put the 4 lower bolts into the timing chain cover and tighten them to spec (leave the long water pump bolts in place loose). One of the bolts will be hidden by the lower radiator outlet for the water pump, so you have to torque them before you install the water pump. then remove the long water pump bolts that you used to guide the timing cover on, and install the water pump and torque it to spec.

Then assemble the alternator and power steering and fan...
 
I take the stock bolt with the hole and drill it one size larger, then put a slight chamfer on the thread side of the hole, and debur the head side, Just for a bit more oil. Probably has been mentioned but the chain tensioner has a built in oil tab if I remember correctly.
 
DesertRat said:
Great thread BTW-I sincerly wish I had read the whole thing before assembly.
Going backwards---------again-------------DR:-( F--k I am bummed!
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Don't worry, you won't make this mistake again after you fix it...

Live and learn. sometimes you learn more from your mistakes than if you put it together the first time and "got lucky" everything worked..

Experience teaches you how to make sure that it works next time you put it together from making the mistakes in the past...
 
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