This is not your whole problem. But I've run those carbs before and those jet sizes are a few sizes bigger than I ever ran. Especially in the front. As some said earlier the you need to check the AFR a chassis dyno is great for that. Or you could install a wide band O2 and and watch it yourself. I had one of those carbs and without a power valve in the rear it mostly ran the quickest and fastest with 70 in the front and 78 in the back. On pump gas and 68 & 76 on race gas. Good luck with your project.
How To Measure Fuel Volume.
- Thread starter SpeedThrills
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PRH
Well-Known Member
Just a little something for those who feel like the speed is way off for the ET……..
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
Or, those of us who do indeed think the mph is off
Estimate Quarter-Mile ET from MPH
My current car, when I got it, ran 12.20’s at 109-110
Much more in line with the above.
110.xx is low for 11.80 in most any car I have seen at the track( except for class type cars, which typically underperform in the mph dept, compared to the ET they run)
Bear in mind too, the OP’s car is quite light as well. Wallace put’s that mph and that weight at 315 or so horsepower, I bet the car safely makes a good bit more power than that.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
And that’s why I said a time skip isn’t the do all, bee all, end all in telling performance. It’s not and it’s not very accurate unless you know what the engine should make for power in the weather conditions for the day.
Then you can look at the time slip and trust it.
Of course even that assumes can bite you in the keester because I’m still stunned by how many people don’t know the exact weight of their car.
I was at the track a week ago with a friend and a guy says “what’s the car weigh”? It’s a 73 Duster with iron heads.
So I told him. And the dude is insulted. He says there is no F’ing way the car weighs that much.
And I do know what it weighs because it’s been scaled. With my friend in the drivers seat with his helmet it’s 3600 on the nose with a full tank.
I weigh about 90 pounds less than he does and the tank was 3/4 full so I told him 3500 with my pig sized fat *** in it.
He figured it was in the 3200 pound range and I laughed. It’s a 73 dude, it’s heavy.
Without knowing exactly what the car weighs you are just guessing what you make for power with a time slip.
I was probably plus or minus 20 pounds so I was close.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure the Op Said he was 3000 pounds at the line
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure you’re correct.
Unless they say it was on scales I ASSume it’s a guess.
Kinda like when guys say their compression ratio is 10:1ish.
Then I know they are guessing and anything I say after is just a WAG.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
When he said it was 3000 “ at the line” makes me think he indeed does drive across the scale… lol
But you’re right you never know.
I know personally I posted a pic of me sitting on the scale and what I read so nobody can argue when I state car weight.
His car is light enough to where I tend to believe what he says.
I have seen modern 4400 pound challengers run in the high 11’s at close to 130
That's a lot!
I'd love to, but that ain't in the budget.
Four hole might not fit under the hood. I'd have to measure. Good thing to experiment with. Thanks.
I will experiment with jetting. Thanks
For a super-efficient combo the mph is close. But for my less-than-ultimate, it should run faster for the 11.80.
I need to run it more and get the power, etc. sorted out.
I had it on the local dump scale w/ me and probably a 1/4 tank of gas. 3000#
33IMP
Well-Known Member
@SpeedThrills , Not intending to sidetrack (but I'm gonna do it anyway!)......what are your shifter problems, mentioned in first post
What shifter are you using, what's wrong with it?
(I hurt a decent 396 pretty badly many years ago, due to "shifter problems".)
What shifter are you using, what's wrong with it?
(I hurt a decent 396 pretty badly many years ago, due to "shifter problems".)
No problem, I appreciate the interest. It’s a Hurst quarter stick and it came with the truck that I got this entire drivetrain from. I discovered, that it’s a regular pattern shifter and I have a reverse pattern valve body. The B&M quarter stick type shifter has a plate you can replace for whatever shift pattern you have. You can’t do that with a Hurst quarter stick. I did some grinding and welding and changed mine to a reverse pattern. It works great now, I just haven’t been to the track yet.
Forgive me if you know all of this, maybe someone else will be able to use it down the road.
You had to pull the trigger to go 1st to 2nd, instead of 2nd to 3rd. It would go 1st to 3rd very easily. I think I have that straight!
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33IMP
Well-Known Member
Thanks
No worries, I was curious. I never cared for the shifters where you have to remember to use a lockout or not. If I wanted a shifter where I had to think I would have kept my Cheetah. A "1-3-2-3 special," too many times.
I use, and like, the b&m pro ratchet now. I converted the cheetah to a glide, its now a no-brainer too.
No worries, I was curious. I never cared for the shifters where you have to remember to use a lockout or not. If I wanted a shifter where I had to think I would have kept my Cheetah. A "1-3-2-3 special," too many times.
I use, and like, the b&m pro ratchet now. I converted the cheetah to a glide, its now a no-brainer too.
I’m not a big fan of the quarter stick, and never liked the cheetah, though I never used one. It’s been a while, but I always used at B&M where you just pull the lever and release or push the lever and release. Simple. But what I have came with all the other stuff in the D150 I bought, so I'ma give it a go.
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I really like my Pro Ratchet with the Shiftnoid .
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Is that like a hemi-roid?
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