How to Remove Pit Marks in my 68 Tail Panel

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SSSN8KE, I went through the same issues while restoring the surrounds and trunk trim on my '67 Barracuda. Trailbeast referred me to Leanna at Phoenix Specialty Coatings. She recommended Cerakote MC-160. All you will need the 4oz. tester size and a small HVLP gun from Harbor Freight. All of the trim that I coated still looks great. Below is link to her site. Good Luck.
Phoenix Specialty Coatings ~ Exceptional Custom Powder Coating
 
I have spent a few hours sanding after the anodizing was removed. My question is do I keep using the 100 grit paper until the pit marks are out or do I sand a bit with 100, then sand a bit with 220, then sand a bit with 400 etc, etc. until the marks are out?

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toolmanmike said:
That is anodized aluminum. If they aren't too deep you can strip the anodizing and sand them out. Finish by polishing the raw aluminum or send it off to be re coated.
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Should I just sand with 100 grit until the pot marks are out? or should I sand with 100, then 200, then 400 etc, until the marks are out?
 
mygasser said:
i'd sand with 100 'til the marks are almost gone, then the progressively finer grades will fully remove any traces left.
neil.
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Neil
Thank you for chiming in! I’ve never attempted this before so I want to make sure I do it right.
 
bbab3 said:
SSSN8KE, I went through the same issues while restoring the surrounds and trunk trim on my '67 Barracuda. Trailbeast referred me to Leanna at Phoenix Specialty Coatings. She recommended Cerakote MC-160. All you will need the 4oz. tester size and a small HVLP gun from Harbor Freight. All of the trim that I coated still looks great. Below is link to her site. Good Luck.
Phoenix Specialty Coatings ~ Exceptional Custom Powder Coating
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Thank you for chiming in! I am going to check the cost on anodizing then go from there.
 
I sanded mine starting 100 and worked my way up to 1000. Then buffed to a good gloss. I used a Makita electric palm sander which leaves oscillating sanding marks which polish out easier than straight sanding marks.
 
bbab3 said:
I sanded mine starting 100 and worked my way up to 1000. Then buffed to a good gloss. I used a Makita electric palm sander which leaves oscillating sanding marks which polish out easier than straight sanding marks.
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bbab3
Great idea, I have a palm sander I think I’ll try that method. What did you use to buff it? Thanks for the info
 
mygasser said:
i'd sand with 100 'til the marks are almost gone, then the progressively finer grades will fully remove any traces left.
neil.
Click to expand...

mygasser said:
i'd sand with 100 'til the marks are almost gone, then the progressively finer grades will fully remove any traces left.
neil.
Click to expand...
Neil
Thank you for that recommendation. I’m going to try it
 
Not that I am dedicated to buying everything from Harbor Freight, I use the buffing compounds they have and drill mounted buffing wheel. Hope works for you.
 
bbab3 said:
Not that I am dedicated to buying everything from Harbor Freight, I use the buffing compounds they have and drill mounted buffing wheel. Hope works for you.
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I have buffing wheels and compound I just have to get all the sanding done first. Thanks bbab3
 
bbab3 said:
I sanded mine starting 100 and worked my way up to 1000. Then buffed to a good gloss. I used a Makita electric palm sander which leaves oscillating sanding marks which polish out easier than straight sanding marks.
Click to expand...
bbab3
Question for you……. I have spent several hours sanding with 120 grit paper. I have made progress with regards to the pit marks but they are still there. Do I continue with the 120 until they are almost gone or gone entirely before I go to 300, 400, 600, 800 etc?

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