The filter looked great yesterday, I’m confident that’s not the problem.
Obviously I won’t be able to verify what the vent looks like until the unit is out, but that’s something I will look at. Thanks
I think my 727 is fried. Now I'm at a crossroads...
- Thread starter Righty Tighty
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CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
A guy brought in a 727 with deep pan and completely filled with fluid. I drained it out like 2 gallons and put it into my 98 Voyager when I put the new filter in. Works fine. And asfaras clutch clearance, when I rebuilt my first trans as 904, back in 80, I had no book or video or internet ; nothing. I just slapped the new parts in without checking anything, and it worked great, so checking clutch clearance on a 904; with stock parts, is pretty much a no brainer. Twenty thousands, not enough....one hundred and twenty thousands...maybe too much...
Col_Steve
Well-Known Member
I'm not against Ford ATF specifically, it is very useful in Fords and in some race built transmissions of all makes if the friction materials in them are designed for it. However, if you build a TF with OEM type clutches and bands you will find the more viscous type F will prolong the engagement time of the friction surfaces, but sometimes increases the bite once it is squeezed out. Automatic transmission shifts are a timed event where one friction unit releases as another one engages, thus viscosity and friction modifiers in the fluid affect that timing. Mopar specified fluids are a bit less viscous and squeeze out of clutch packs and band/drum surfaces a bit faster, and the synthetic +4 is the best yet as it is a bunch less likely to be ruined by a bit of excess heat, has superior lubricity, and squeezes out faster. It is a "fill for life" fluid in most circumstances. I'm finding the +4 is quicker and more responsive. Regardless of any of that the use of type F fluid isn't/wasn't the cause of your fluid puke problem, that was and may still be caused by some other factor. Using the deep pan and running the fluid level a quart low on the stock dipstick might well solve the problem for good. I do wish you the best of luck!
Steve
That's great information to know, thanks! I wasn't thinking fluid type had anything to do with my problem, I was just curious on your thoughts of using Type F.
If it was my situation, I would pull the valve body and go through it carefully. Check particularly for sticky valves. While it is out, install a quality shift kit. You'll be glad you did.
Thanks. Valve bodies intimidate me a little, just due to all the tiny parts and me being ignorant as to the whats and hows of everything. He was the guy who rebuilt my clutch packs and I was quite happy with him, so I might just have him look the valve body over when I pull the transmission.
So, it's driving reliably right now, and I've got lots of shuffling to do before I can get the car back in my shop to work on it. I'll update the thread once the transmission is out and apart. Thanks to everyone for the help so far.
Most shift kits (like B&M, Fairbanks, etc.) have good illustrations of all the valves. Just take your time taking it apart and keep the valves & associated springs together when you take them apart. I clear off a workbench and put newspaper/cardboard down to soak up any tranny fluid. Do what the kit says (I always select street/strip settings) and you'll be fine. If you run into a snag, let us know. Lots of us have done this so no big deal!!!
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I did my first A904 rebuild in 1976; on my girlfriends new dining room table, in a rented apartment. Yeah it was her table and her apartment, we were NOT YET married, I hadn't even proposed, and I had no job....... but she did. Was I a worm or what?
She took it like a trooper, so I married her, and that was 47 years ago.
The trans worked perfect.
When I did mine, I measured every spring as they came out; as to length, width, wire diameter, coil-count, and location.
IIRC, there are only two springs that are able to be swapped around, and if you accidentally do it, you will know it on the first roadtest.
Happy HotRodding.
She took it like a trooper, so I married her, and that was 47 years ago.
The trans worked perfect.
When I did mine, I measured every spring as they came out; as to length, width, wire diameter, coil-count, and location.
IIRC, there are only two springs that are able to be swapped around, and if you accidentally do it, you will know it on the first roadtest.
Happy HotRodding.
I rebuilt a 727 on a spare bedroom table in base housing during a typhoon in the Philippines in the early 80's! Tools over there were hard to get, so had to make some to compress the drums. Not hard work, but kinda messy. Glad you got a good woman, AJ. Whoso findeth a wife findeth a good thing, and obtaineth favor of the Lord!
Thanks for the confidence boost, gentlemen. I’m gonna give it a shot (valve body included). Prior to rebuilding the 318 in the Scamp a couple years ago, I had no idea what was even inside that engine. But I yanked it and ripped it apart, and with a ton of help, got it done. Looking back, it was so much simpler than I had initially thought — I think in large part because I was so meticulous in keeping everything clean and organized. I’ll use the same approach here.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Thank you Brother, you know it!
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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You got all of FABO behind you including several well-versed transmission guys (not me;I'm just a parts replacer for the most part)
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
If there is no pilot bushing in the crank (there might be), you need PN 53009180: it's a needle pilot bearing that fits into the pilot hole for the torque converter. If that isn't available, 4338876 is the adaptor sleeve that presses into the pilot hole, allowing the use of the PN 4338859 bushing.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
My first auto was a 73 Dart in a cold November of 1980. Just lucky there was plenty of snow to pile up against the rockers to block the arctic blast.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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My first manual was in ~69. It was Mum's 67 BritishFord Anglia 4-speed . I got my drivers in summer of 69; and Mum graciously let me drive that little hummer but the deal was that if I broke it, I had to fix it. By February I had blown both synchros, so there I was, under the car, pulling the trans. I installed the new assemblys, etc, and a week later I was under the car again. Yes it was a success, but after that I took it easy on that tiny transmission.
About three years later, I was under my 70Swinger340, again in winter, pulling the A833 for the same stinking reason...............
I sold that car in 75, and bought an automatic car......... and a year later was the apartment story. lol
Bought a house in 78, and a 71 Demon 318/904. That trans impressed me so much, I pulled it out and cloned 3 more just like it. Badaboom, no more winters on my back
About three years later, I was under my 70Swinger340, again in winter, pulling the A833 for the same stinking reason...............
I sold that car in 75, and bought an automatic car......... and a year later was the apartment story. lol
Bought a house in 78, and a 71 Demon 318/904. That trans impressed me so much, I pulled it out and cloned 3 more just like it. Badaboom, no more winters on my back
Its been awhile since I looked at a 727 but if it puked out fluid from dip stick , I know some newer trannys it was a clogged vent causing issue , but as I said I havent seen a 727 in awhile and putting a 4 speed in my build
I am convinced my car has a soul, and she hates me. Either that or she has one hell of a sense of humor.
I called the transmission guy yesterday to order a rebuild kit as a pre-emptive strike, and he said it'll be here in a couple days. Okay fine, everything is hunky dory. Then I drive the Cuda around like normal today, just running some errands, and wouldn't ya know it, she starts slipping and hesitating when shifting gears. No fluid coming out yet. Trying to make it home, and now the fluid starts coming out.
Also during this relatively short trip, the steering starts acting funny -- like it's skipping a tooth every time I turn to the left. And now I'm noticing that every single component in the suspension is creaking with any movement. Edith is sick and she's going to go away for a while....
I called the transmission guy yesterday to order a rebuild kit as a pre-emptive strike, and he said it'll be here in a couple days. Okay fine, everything is hunky dory. Then I drive the Cuda around like normal today, just running some errands, and wouldn't ya know it, she starts slipping and hesitating when shifting gears. No fluid coming out yet. Trying to make it home, and now the fluid starts coming out.
Also during this relatively short trip, the steering starts acting funny -- like it's skipping a tooth every time I turn to the left. And now I'm noticing that every single component in the suspension is creaking with any movement. Edith is sick and she's going to go away for a while....
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
You named her Edith, and you think she's gonna be happy? 
Hahahaha!!! I dunno, it kinda just fit! That was the name of the street I bought her on. But honestly, are females ever really happy?
You shouldda named her Lilith.
I can only think of Lilith from the TV show Cheers. I found her quite attractive in a tightly wound, stiff as a board kind of way.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Rebuild kits are a misnomer.
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
So True CudaFactHackJob!!!! A rebuild is only as good as the rebuilder or the part that is to be rebuilt. That includes on - line rebuilders.
hotrod swinger
Well-Known Member
I finally had time to drop it out today, so we’ll see what it looks like tomorrow when I pull it apart. The front seal looks fine to me, so I’m eager to see what I’ll find inside.
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