Indy 415 Small Block

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Thanks for the response Brian , as a finish carpenter I get what you said about home improvement which is why I have always priced my labour for that sort of work by the sq ft or by the box respectively but I think we understand each other perfectly , please PM me or email me at [email protected] with a price for the build you have suggested but also give me a price for the same sort of build with forged crank and h-beams as I would like the bottom end to be absolutely bullet proof , I really dont think the car could handle any more power on the street with the 14s I am using for street trim so your build sounds perfect , is that with the cam all in at 5500 .
 
Brian,

I hope you didnt take my post about the size of the cam as disrespect because it wasnt intended that way. I was simply asking a question to learn more about motors.
I have asked you several questions on websites and by the phone and have ALWAYS been respectful. I try and learn from people like you.

Mike
 
mikesduster said:
Brian,

I hope you didnt take my post about the size of the cam as disrespect because it wasnt intended that way. I was simply asking a question to learn more about motors.
I have asked you several questions on websites and by the phone and have ALWAYS been respectful. I try and learn from people like you.

Mike
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Naaaa I'm not that sensitive...ha ha! I was talking about a certain dummy and I'm sure anyone can figure out who that might be. It wasn't you Mike.
Hopefully I don't come off as some "know-it-all" on here or any other site. I'll be the first one to say I don't have it ALL figured out! But over the years we've learned alot about engine combinations and how they relate from dyno to track or street or oval track or on the water.

Plus I've been porting heads and learning from very smart cyl. head guys for the past 21 years but there are still times I have to bounce idea's off guys that are smarter than me and who I trust to help.

As for the cam size...if you don't have enough duration you can't fill the cylinders and make HP. It's all about making everything work together in the same rpm range to make excellent HP per CID. You can go overboard with too much anything also, so it's a careful balance.
Brian
 
Brian at IMM custom ground the hydraulic roller cam in my 414 small block. Engines been in my car for almost two years now and it still thrills me every time I take it out. Instant throttle response,tons of low end torque, and screams on the top end like it wants to rev forever. I've scared a lot of passengers too. I always get compliments on how bad *** it sounds at the cruise spots. Definately a great guy to work with who was answering emails and providing expert advice long after I bought the parts. His prices were great too and he always shipped out very quickly.
 
Brian is one of the most straight-up and knowledgable guys around and he "walks the walk" the way he stands behingd his work and his products and he'll go out and back up his words on the track.

I've got a dead-nutz simple .020 over 11.9:1 414 short block together now, I have a set of E-heads that will be worked over to flow high 270's to work well with a 255/263 @.050/170/174 @.200 Solid flat tappet. I figure it will make around 525 HP and should pretty easily push my little 2700 pound rocky into the 10's or high 6's in the 1/8th. In a slightly heavier A body it would still be a very streetable low 11 second motor. If I didn't already have the heads I would have jumped all over a set of Brian's tweaked RHS's and i very likely will on my next small block project.

Brian, If I may ask what converter/stall and gear do you run in the Duster? I'm afraid if my Rocky launched anywhere near that hard I'll be upside down!
 
Does anybody know how much it would be to ship an engine clear across country from Michigan to California ? Long block , short block ?
 
rrvolare said:
Does anybody know how much it would be to ship an engine clear across country from Michigan to California ? Long block , short block ?
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I know CNC-Motorsports charges $260 flat rate to ship Shortblocks! I would say from $200-$300, Just a guess
 
340sFastback said:
Brian at IMM custom ground the hydraulic roller cam in my 414 small block. Engines been in my car for almost two years now and it still thrills me every time I take it out. Instant throttle response,tons of low end torque, and screams on the top end like it wants to rev forever. I've scared a lot of passengers too. I always get compliments on how bad *** it sounds at the cruise spots. Definately a great guy to work with who was answering emails and providing expert advice long after I bought the parts. His prices were great too and he always shipped out very quickly.
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Fastback,who did your heads??..
 
Nice to see some can't help but be a pot stirring Dbag....

Yes, you're still on ignore stroganoff340, you find the missing MPH?
 
rrvolare said:
Does anybody know how much it would be to ship an engine clear across country from Michigan to California ? Long block , short block ?
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If it went from us to you it would be about 350.00 including the crate. I'm shipping one to Pa in 2 weeks and it'll be 375.00 with the crate.
This is an exact copy of the CC build but with a 950HP and an SFI dampner.

Wize, when I ran that CC engine I had a hughes 3500 stall 10" converter, low gear 904 trans and 4.56 gear. I think a 4.10 would have worked alot better. Can you imagine if I had used my 8" converter and the brake????

Thanks guys for the kind words. I've had alot of fun on this site, way more fun than Moparts!!
Thanks to all of my customers on here as well...It is appreciated!!!!
Brian
 
crackedback said:
Nice to see some can't help but be a pot stirring Dbag....

Yes, you're still on ignore stroganoff340, you find the missing MPH?
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Your such a douchebag,on your ignore list but yet you still come on here addressing me,ignore this homo:thebirdm::thebirdm::thebirdm:
 
stroked 340 said:
Your such a douchebag,on your ignore list but yet you still come on here addressing me,ignore this homo:thebirdm::thebirdm::thebirdm:
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I think you two are actually in LOVE with each other...and dont denied it...
 
I purchased a 415 smallblock storker off Indy Cylinderhead in 2004 for $2950. It was a short block assembled with a internal balance, mopar performance cast crank, SIR rods, Weisco pistons, pump gas engine. I asked them for a cam and they selected one for me and said the engine would make 450hp with my eddy heads. I had some head work done to raise comp to 10.2 to 1. Car has had 100's of passes in it's 6 years of use and has ran 11.34 best but usually runs 11.45 to 11.50's. I've been very happy with it needless to say. I drive this car alot during the summer months and do the local cruise nights here in Michigan also so it has plenty of street miles on it. Jayson
 

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Stroked you're so f'ing stupid that when people quote you in their response I see it even though you are on ignore you ignorant stupid missing MPH punk *** *****.

Go over to moparts and screw it up over there... oh wait they did the smart thing and canned your stupid ***. Do the site a favor and disappear or maybe you could make your way over and service "the man" you are in love with.

GFY
 
Hey Flem,

What are the specs to your cam?? Are your eddy heads ported?? If so,what did they flow??
Nice ride!!!!!
Mike
jysnflem said:
I purchased a 415 smallblock storker off Indy Cylinderhead in 2004 for $2950. It was a short block assembled with a internal balance, mopar performance cast crank, SIR rods, Weisco pistons, pump gas engine. I asked them for a cam and they selected one for me and said the engine would make 450hp with my eddy heads. I had some head work done to raise comp to 10.2 to 1. Car has had 100's of passes in it's 6 years of use and has ran 11.34 best but usually runs 11.45 to 11.50's. I've been very happy with it needless to say. I drive this car alot during the summer months and do the local cruise nights here in Michigan also so it has plenty of street miles on it. Jayson
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I just posted as a member,NOW im posting as a MOD. PLEASE refrain from the bashing and the cussing or some people will be taking a vacation for a few days!!! THANKS!!!
 
Hey Mike the cam I have is from Comp Cams. When I called Comp Cams to ask for valve springs they said it was a custom grind so I guess Indy requested it made this way. intake .534 exhaust .555 106 centerline. Duration @50 IN 250 EX 262. My heads did have a little port work but were never flowed. We did install 2.050 intake valves and the bowls were equalized before the head was milled to up the comp to 10.2. Jayson
 
thank you guys.i love this site.it covers it all. education,fact and comedy. seriously though i learn somthing every time i log on! thank you
 
Well, I guess I kinda sorta got an answer on something. This is my very first build at age 54. Hoping to pick some experienced brains in reference to a fairly specific package. 68 Dart. 3:23 to 3:55 gear. Once or twice a year I will take it to Pay-n-Play night a IRP. Not a daily driver just an expensive Tonka Toy. 15 inch tires as wide as possible in back. 4 speed. Power steering and brakes, disc/drum. I want to pull up to any pump in the country and use the best fuel they have. I don't want to turn 7000 RPM to utilize the power. I want the most power (torque?) under the hood as I can buy in a small block based package whether it's completely done for me or I assemble the finished components myself. I'd like to get it for free. Failing that I have a budget of about 7K or so. That is flexable depending on what a little extra is worth. A built, crated and shipped engine or parts in a box, either is fine. Indy appears to be out? Are there any knowledgable, experienced recommendations out there in reference to such a package that don't piss everybody off? I realize that 15,000 people will run 8,000 different combinations for various reasons. But there should be some fairly close setups in regards to what my application is going to be. More powerful than most (but not all) yet dependable enough that I don't have to worry about freshening it up for another 50 thousand miles unless I do something stupid. Thanks. Can't we all just get along?
 
It's usually the same posters that tend to get things off track. Don't worry about pissing ther est of the world off. If you need to get a certain result, then build what you have to in order to get that result. Pump gas, power brakes. and reliability seem to be it. $7K if you have nothing to start with is a little low IMO but I'm know to be expensive when i quote reality. I've shipped shortblocks coast to coast and you should be able to get it shipped for somewhere around $250-300, plus the crating fee if there is one. The heavier it is, the more cash, so I think Brian's quotes pretty close to dead nuts. In terms of packages... I think a decent cast crank, cheap rods, good pistons, and the RHS heads would be fine. Build conservatively and accept what it will do for ETs and you'll be fine.
 
Find someone you trust to do the work right and go with it.

One thing that you have that will throw a bit of a wrench in the deal is power brakes.

A straight forward stroker build should be able to be done for under 7K. Brian's IMM car craft engine is an example of that. There are also many parts in that build that could be changed to reduce final cost, rockers, headers, etc. Would be capable of mid-high 11's at 117-120 in a poor leaving 3400# car

If you running a tight budget and want to run a forged crank, it's going to be about 400-500 more. That difference could be offset with reduction in other areas, specifically headers.
 
Heres how I look at it,

Rotating assembly from Muscle motors or wherever $1,200
Indy RHS Heads with 2.02 Valves 1,200
Block work 500.00 to 1,000 (if that) 1,000
Misc.... cam Oil pan intake carb 2,000

You can get one built alot cheaper than 7,000
 
67mopr said:
Heres how I look at it,

Rotating assembly from Muscle motors or wherever $1,200
Indy RHS Heads with 2.02 Valves 1,200
Block work 500.00 to 1,000 (if that) 1,000
Misc.... cam Oil pan intake carb 2,000

You can get one built alot cheaper than 7,000
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$7000 is assembled price.... You can do it a lot cheaper..... If you assemble it yourself.
 
If you assemble it yourself and is first time, then plan on a bunch of $$ for special tools to do good assembly. Ring grinder, ring compressor, torque wrenches, rod bolt guage, cam bearing install tool, cam degree wheel, etc.. If you do it once, then you're set for next time. The engine gurus that do it for business also have all the little tricks to make engine last. All that knowledge & experience costs.
 
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