Inspection of a 904 torqueflite

-
.040 on the forward drum.....using the .085 snap ring
.082 clearance in the direct drum .....using a .076 snap ring

These are also fully soaked frictions. I don’t know how much that matters. Probably doesn’t
 
I'm starting to get a headache trying to keep up with all of your assumptions. It shows a lack of respect for proper procedure.
 
A lot. Check clearance after they are applied. Why does the thickness of the snap ring matter; but being soaked doesn't? And no flat feeler gauges on waved rings for beginners.
 
Got an air compressor. Checked them again with 80psi to the stack and a sealed rubber tipped nozzle and held it there a few times.

The forwards have .060 clearance
The direct has .116 clearance

So I’ll get a .075 snap ring for the forward and the .085 for the direct. Which should bring both to the middle of the spec.

The servos activate well and the clutch pack seals had no leaks.
 
I think I’m finally done. after applying the clutch packs with 50psi pressure several times.

The forward clutch set is .042 after putting in the .085 snap ring

The direct clutch packs are sitting at .096 with a .062 snap ring
.......this one I could have gotten down to .081.....I figured that .096 was better.

After putting it all back together. The total end play was .042


The second time I checked the end play was more proper than the first. I bought a large metal table so the dial indicator would stay solid.

In looking at how the end play is now. It has a feel to it like it should. The input shaft rocks back and forth. I might not have gotten it in perfectly last time. After making the alignment pins and putting in a thicker output shaft snap ring. Both of these helped a lot.

Also...I didn’t think about this the first time that I put the clutch drums in ....that I could tighten the kickdown band to hold everything in place and then put the pump in. The pump went in effortlessly and was driven down with a rubber mallet.

On the other note. My other transmission that i finished seems really tight at the input shaft and doesn’t have that rocking feel to it. I’m going to disassemble that one again and go back through the clutch packs and end play. I bought several snap rings ranging .076, .080, .085 just to have some on hand.
Either way....I should be able to get those clutch packs in a better spec than before and get rid of the waved snap rings all together.
 
Last edited:
Now.....to work through getting the bands adjusted correctly. I’ll go with spec and see where I’m at this time.
 
Yeah, it’s got that side to side rattle. It’s good play forward and backward.

I did the spec on the band adjustment and this time it ended up perfect. I can see that it’s right. Also....when I apply the air it locks tight. Release and it will spin but it’s still pretty close the the drums.

I don’t have the valve body on yet. When I air checked the clutch packs in the transmission after it was all together. I heard a leak on the forward clutches. They still apply fine but I do hear some air. I think it’s fine but I’m tempted to pull them back out and look at it again.

I dont know how much air pressure I put to it. I know I turned it down later to about 40psi.
I’ve heard of seals doing something when too much pressure is applied. Shouldn’t be a problem to pull it back apart and double check for the experience as maybe what I’m hearing is normal. I’ve read that you are supposed to hear a leak but as long as you hear the thud sound it’s fine,

I know that before I the stack in.....It was fine with the same amount of air pressure to check it.

Once this is all straightened out it should be done. Then hope for the best when it’s in the car.

I still have to put the engine together.
 
The seals do something when too much pressure is applied? I doubt you could match the pressure they apply under. Where in the world do you get this stuff?!?
 
I read a lot of stuff. Some of it good and some bad. Then post it here and you set the record straight.

someone really did say that if you put too much pressure on the seal they turn inside out and how would I know. I’m new to this process.

I guess it makes sense. The forward clutch probably gets well over 100psi alone.....so why would 100 psi air cause problems.

So........
Where should I put the line for the transmission temp gauge?
And I’ve seen mixed reviews on where to put the cooler.
I was going to put it after the radiator cooler.
I figured that if I put it before the radiator. It would heat the fluid back up as it stays a constant temperature due to the engine thermostat.

I thought if I put it after the radiator. Then he radiator would cool it down to thermostat 180° and the trans cooler would drop it down to maybe 170°.

That might answer my question. Maybe put the temp gauge on the return line.
 
Well, never apply air unless you have the clutches installed or the piston will come up out of the bore.. What about an oil pressure gauge?
 
glhx said:
So........
Where should I put the line for the transmission temp gauge?
Click to expand...
Easiest is the rear servo port. From my research the factory often used that point on hd vehicles with that option. You can ask, read, research till your eyes and ears bleed, everyone will have the absolute answer on why you should or shouldn't put it where ever. Before the cooler, after the cooler, here, there, everywhere! I run mine there simply because it was an easy tap, and from my research it's good enough for me. Put it where ever makes sense to you, regardless of whether it requires easy or more involved plumbing and rest easy.
 
glhx said:
Now.... I’ll go with spec and see where I’m at this time.
Click to expand...
When you are new to something, only do something rarely, are limited on having a century of experience where you can do it with your eyes closed, have the skilled maestro touch, OR when one is more based in reality, when you in fact have the proper tools, you torque the band adjusters to 72 in/lbs then back them off the recommended amount of turns. Simple as that. Then you rest easy eliminating all future concern or doubt as to whether the bands are right.
 
The snap rings were on when pressure was applied to test. However....I did shoot an accumulator piston across the room. No snap rings on that one.

An oil pressure gauge? I was going to run that out of the line pressure port coming out of the accumulator but just to test it. I don’t have one yet. They are less costly than I would have suspected.
 
12many said:
When you are new to something, only do something rarely, are limited on having a century of experience where you can do it with your eyes closed, have the skilled maestro touch, OR when one is more based in reality, when you in fact have the proper tools, you torque the band adjusters to 72 in/lbs then back them off the recommended amount of turns. Simple as that. Then you rest easy eliminating all future concern or doubt as to whether the bands are right.
Click to expand...

I tightened them to 72inch and backed off 2 1/2 for the kick down and 4 turns back for the reverse. They seem better than the first time.

I’ll run The temp on the rear port.

I’m looking to control the TDC lock up on the governor port with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I haven’t found the regulator as I don’t know the pressure range for one yet

I really like that van
 
glhx said:
I tightened them to 72inch and backed off 2 1/2 for the kick down and 4 turns back for the reverse. They seem better than the first time.

I’ll run The temp on the rear port.

I’m looking to control the TDC lock up on the governor port with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I haven’t found the regulator as I don’t know the pressure range for one yet

I really like that van
Click to expand...
I always mount the temp sensor in the pan.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top