Internally Regulated Alternator Kit...???

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tubbedamx

Location Boise, Idaho
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Has anybody ever used this kit from AR Engineering? They sell an alternator bracket that will allow you to use a "Toyota Interally Regulated Alternator" ?

Thanks for the HELP...I'm new to Mopars.

Application: 1967 barracuda originally a 273 car. Now has a 360 with a 2-groove water pump pully and a 4-groove crank pully. No power steering but would like to add aftermarket a/c sometime in the future.

I also had a question on how to wire this up? It only talks about 2 wires
1) Post labeled "IG". It says its a switched 12vdc. I imagine this could be from the keyed ignition to turn on the alternator? Maybe 14-16 guage wire.

2) Post labeled "Sense". It says to runs this to a starter relay...I'm guessing again another 14-16 guage wire

3)Is there a 3rd connection for a a 6-8 guage wire that is ran to the positive side of the battery??

Question about the mechanics of the kit:
4) The instructions read mention it uses a 2-groove lower pully. In my case I have a 4-groove lower pully. Do you suppose this would be ok??

Question about somekind of dash mounted amp guage:
5) I have been reading on Fabo about disabling your dash mounted amp guage when using these higher amp rated alternators. My question does this car have such a guage. When looking at the dash there is a guage labeled "Alternator" with a D on one side and a C on the other. Is this the guage that ought to be disabled?? Is so what is the prefered method? Can the guage simply be unplugged and wiring safely secured?





http://www.arengineering.com/instructsheet/instruct.html

This kit contains the mounting brackets, spacer and bolts necessary to adapt a lightweight alternator from a Toyota 4Runner to any LA block Chrysler motor using the 1970 or later water pump. The kit contains an aluminum spacer, as well as upper and lower mounting brackets and three mounting bolts. This kit works with any pulley set that has the deep water pump pulley (2951836) shown in the picture. The lower pulley should be either the single groove (3614375) or the double groove (3614378) if you have power steering. A fan belt such as Gates #7460 will work with stock size pulleys.

Mount the kit with the alternator hanging from one 5.25-inch bolt. The 5.50-inch bolt goes through the alternator brackets and into the water pump housing. The remaining 5.25-inch bolt goes through the upper hole of the alternator bracket and into the water pump housing. The long spacer mounts behind the alternator. The lower adjuster fits on top of the alternator bracket, not beneath it.

The Toyota alternator that fits this application can be purchased as Bosch remanufactured part number AL218X. This number cross references over to Denso 210-106 and 210-107 as well as original Toyota number 27060-35060 and 27060-35061.

The Toyota alternator is internally regulated so you must remove the external voltage regulator. Run an ignition switched 12 volt source directly to the terminal marked IG on the back of the alternator. The terminal marked sense on the alternator should be wired to the 12 volt post on the starter relay, or any other location where system voltage can be properly referenced. There is an excellent discussion on remote sensing at www.madelectrical.com if you need any further information. The third terminal is for an indicator lamp and is usually not used on a Mopar.
 
Your gauge is an ammeter, and the D and C stand for Discharging and Charging, respectively. This is a good link for you to read.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Lots of people, including myself, have bypassed the gauge by simply disconnecting the two wires on the posts on the back of the gauge, and bolting them together on one stud or the other so it bypasses the gauge. Then you can hook up a simple Volt gauge.

Hope this helps a little,

Kenny
 
Weird how all that current runs through the bulkhead and through that gauge, ha ?? I was lucky I didn't have any serious burnt wires, so I just put a new fusible link in .. Also ran an 8 gauge wire from the alternator directly to the battery in the trunk..

As for the alternator, I've been eye balling this one for a while ..

http://www.4secondsflat.com/chrysler_starters_and_alternators.htm

I have one of their brake boosters and the chrome plating is awesome !

Kenny
 
I bought the bracket kit from Mancinni for $49.95 plus shipping & had a friend that owns an alternator shop get me the alternator New for $79.95 +$5.00 for the plug . Less than $150.00 bucks vs their $250.00.I installed it last week & it looks great. Will have to get back to you on the wiring,will have to go look at mine .
 
I bought the bracket kit from Mancinni for $49.95 plus shipping & had a friend that owns an alternator shop get me the alternator New for $79.95 +$5.00 for the plug . Less than $150.00 bucks vs their $250.00.I installed it last week & it looks great. Will have to get back to you on the wiring,will have to go look at mine .

I am going to call this place http://stores.ebay.com/Grand-Alternators-And-Starters today and see what they have...It looks like for around 90$ you can get a 130amp alternator in the same toyota case...

If your going to use a toyota alterntor just keep in mind some of these came with serp. belts. However, an '85 used v-belts...

for example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyo...ryZ33573QQihZ025QQitemZ380082623638QQtcZphoto
 
I'm using the 60 amp Toyota alternator. They come from the 88-92 ( I believe) 4Runner. The lat for the 4 cylinder has the pulley while the V6 uses the serpentine belt...at least thats what it looks like when comparing them. I was above to mess with my stock brackets to make them work; I ended up with the brackets from MagnumHP for a cleaner look. Lights, flashers and heater blowing at idle...volt meter stays at a steady 14 volts and the lights don't dim. It's a nice upgrade and relatively inexpensive.
 
I work on Toyota forklifts at my place of employment. The alternators on them are 35 amp units with a single groove pulley. I'll bet one of them would work nicely. HUMMMM know you've got me thinking.
 
I recieved the alternator yesterday and it looks like a nice unit. Alot smaller than the chrysler original. I should be getting the bracket the first of next week...

Thanks for the help...
I'll see if I can post some pictures with it installed on the engine.


Bear in mind i haven't looked at the wire harness in months but I have a question about a few wires...

As far as the exising wires going to external voltage regulator, my thought was to removed the voltage regulator, tape up and label the wires and leave them in the harness
or
would I be just as well to remove them completely? I don't see this car returning to an external setup...

I guess its kinda of a dumb question, I haven't traced out the wires in the harness yet to even see where they go...I guess I was wondering what others have done.
 
As far as the exising wires going to external voltage regulator, my thought was to removed the voltage regulator, tape up and label the wires and leave them in the harness or would I be just as well to remove them completely? I don't see this car returning to an external setup...

I guess its kinda of a dumb question, I haven't traced out the wires in the harness yet to even see where they go...I guess I was wondering what others have done.

If I understand your question correctly....you wire both of the wires from the original regulator together.
 
If I understand your question correctly....you wire both of the wires from the original regulator together.

I'll have to look into that...I know I was going to tie the dash mounted amp guage wires together.
 
I'll have to look into that...I know I was going to tie the dash mounted amp guage wires together.

In the engine compartment. There are 2 connections on the original regulator. Those have to be tied together. You can't Or maybe it shouldn't) have the original regulator in line.
 
Thanks Ed,
I just want to make sure I'm doing things right and have a few questions...

Done so far:
1)I bypassed the alternator guage.
2)I removed the 10 guage black and red wires from the bulkhead connectors. Removed those wires from the engine harness. Drilled out the bulk head connector. Spliced on new 10 guage wires and ran those to the starter relay Batt connection.
3) I ran a new 8 guage wire from the alternator batt to the battery along with a new remote sensor wire to the starter relay batt. connection.

Since I'm converting to an internally regulated alternator.
4)I removed the existing voltage regulator and spliced the wires together.


Questions:
1) Where or what did you do with the existing green and dark blue wire that used to be hooked up to the old alternator?

2) I also need to figure out the how to wire up the mopar orange box/wire harness it came with. Part of that harness wants to splice into the feed side of ballast resistor when the key is switched to on. I don't have a battery in the car so I'm not sure which side is hot. I do know one side has a bigger guage wire than the other.

3) Once I figure out question 2, I can also splice in the alternator "ing". wire. The wire diaghram for the alternator says that wire needs a switch 12volts plus.
 
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