Disagree on that last point there. You mean "affordable" or "inexpensive". "Cost-effective" doesn't mean the same thing; it means a thing that works well to meet whatever need, at a reasonable cost (lower than other ways of meeting that same need). A thing that doesn't meet the need, or works poorly, cannot be cost-effective even if it costs $0.00.
Yeah badly worded. How bout inexpensive?
I did not use the valve cover gaskets so can't speak to that. The oil pan & trans pan gaskets worked as advertised.
The challenge I had was trying to resolve a rear main seal leak. Kept needing to take the pan off so would have cost a lot more (plus time scraping the old gasket material and sealant off) each time I had to do it. Think I pulled the pan like 5 times. The reusable gasket really came in handy.
I know that is all I'll ever use again. I believe that Mancini has rope seals. The last I got from them WORKED.
I suggested that in post # 30
Years ago, a friend of mine was in a Triumph motorcycle dealership and ask a salesman on the floor how come all these new Triumphs don't leak oil and the salesman told him because they don't have any oil in them.
My 40 year old roof don't leak, unless it's raining.
I buy whatever I can find on eBay for my /6... ROL, Detroit gasket, Victor, etc. I did use the "real" gaskets on the pan and valve cover of which I have 1 each up in the attic still. / Right after I bought those the "real gaskets" company came out with a more expensive line of the same gasket, I remember reading about it but don't remember what the difference was supposed to be. I already had what I do, so I didn't buy their more expensive version.
I was so meticulous when putting my engine together, spic n span clean, used anaroebic sealer, RTV, etc., I put mine all together, weeks later, and there it was, a leak in the rear main area. It's difficult to figure out if it's the pan, rear main seal bracket, or rear main seal. Even with the engine on my engine run stand and good light~ just difficult to pinpoint the LEAK, or more like a steady drip in my case. So, one has to address everything all over again. I feel just because a mechanic is experienced, they're human and can mess up as well as any of us.
So, now, I had to work on the engine with dropping the pan, at least on my engine run stand. I despise this design. So, drop the pan, clean up, have new parts on hand, new tube of RTV this time, be careful not to push the rubber gasket(the one on the pan to the rear main seal bracket), I had it all together, then felt around and I had to loosen all the pan bolts, fanigle the rubber gasket back in place! omg. I've ran it for at least an hour overall, and so far ok. (knock on wood!)
this is an older pic, it's complicated, I wound up using a Roll master timing chain, Rusty knows and Zach for sure.
Same size mains as a 440,..440÷5=88c.i./main,...225÷4=56.25c.i./main, I think we're good..
Bearing size is not my point. Everybody else's straight 6 engines have 7 mains.
I'm not slant 6 savvy. Rope or 2 piece rubber?
I guess it depends on the year. They used rope to a certain point, if I am not mistaken and then switched over to the two piece modern seal. Maybe @slantsixdan can enlighten us on that. I think I am going to try one of those one piece seals on it though. They are available for the big block, which is the same seal as the slant 6, so I may try that. I'm not 100% sure my seal is even leaking, but if I pull it back out, it's gettin one. lol
