It.......

-
The car sure has a nice stance now, and the new wheels really look good.
Hey, if those air shocks are still usable and you want to off them, let me know. I could use a set of those puppies.

George
 
The car sure has a nice stance now, and the new wheels really look good.
Hey, if those air shocks are still usable and you want to off them, let me know. I could use a set of those puppies.

George

Hey George. The filler valve and the shocks are fine. Shocks were working well before I pulled them, but you will probably need some of the plastic filler line.

Make me an offer and they're yours.
 
Lookin great there 68. The new wheels are a big improvement IMO.....

You sure have done alot of work to IT in a short period of time.

:scratch: Looks like you need a LR marker.....or maybe just an installer......LOL
 
Got one...Thank you btw. If it's any consolation, the window crank IS installed:-D

And thanks for the complement.
 
So I fire it up thinking I'll get a lil **** for you guys and gals, and take it for a spin. But all is still not well in the land of "IT". "IT" fired right up, but had a very long and loud lifter tick in it....to the point I was about ready to pronounce the cam wiped out. But that finally quieted down. Problem is, "IT" is still running poorly, missing, doesn't really want to rev above 3K, and popps in the exhaust.

I don't know if it is the same thing or not, but my car did the same thing ( less the lifter tick) I could hear it missing at idle, I left the car idleing, and pulled the spark plugs one at a time, noteing if the car ran worsewhen pulled, or didn't change. Turned out I had 2 bad spark plugs. They were brand new with only a couple hundred miles on them. but they were bad. I replaced them, and I had power again, and there was no miss, and it stoped the pops in the exhaust.

My guyss is maybe your coil is bad, and doesn't have enought life left in it to provide a current everytime. Whatever the problem is, it definatly is in your ignition. The lifter tick is a different issue.

Phil

By the way, looks good
 
Thanks for the complement. I like the way it looks as well. Those new springs sure hold up the rear, and they AREN'T SS's. Supposed to be "drivers".

Anyway, I let it sit most of the day Sunday, then went down and started pulling plugs expecting to see a closed gap. Pulled the 6 easy ones and everything looked Jake. None of the wires seemed loose either. So I put them back, twisted the key, and PRESTO! Ran smooth as silk. So like you, I'm making a guess that the coil is breaking down when hot.

However.............

It's about 91 here today and I took "IT" out for a spin. Drove "IT" about 10 miles, most of it at highway speeds. Even made a stop down the road when I saw the wrecker driver. Fired back up (with a pump of the pedal) and drove back to the shop. No probs.

So I'll be changing the coil, and I am also in need of a correct square top radiator, shroud, and fan. Cause what's in it isn't keeping "IT" cool.

Anybody have one?
 
When we last left our hero, there was a driveability problem with "IT". I had already considered the possibility (and some others also suggested) that the coil might be breaking down after getting hot. So I decided to swap that out.

Has a Blaster 2 on it to go with the "6A" on the fenderwell, so I figured I wouldn't use a stock coil for a replacement. I tried to get a Jacobs coil (higher voltage, better saturation rate) but couldn't find one local. And not wanting to wait for one to be shipped in, I just bought another Blaster 2 local. Seems like maybe that has solved the problem.

Also, whilst perusing the "bay" I ran across a front sway bar kit by Victory Performance, whom I'd never heard of. But then someone else on here mentioned getting something from them so I thought I'd take the risk. They said it was for a car NOT originally equipped with a bar, and included all the appropriate brackets etc.

Oddly, there was a "buy it now" price, but NO reserve AND a low starting bid. So guess what? I wound up the winning bidder at $31.00 AND it included FREE SHIPPING!

what a freakin deal.

When it gets here and I have it installed, I'll take a pic or two and let everyone know what I think about it.

...to be continued......
 
Car looks GREAT!! Like George said that stance is nice. And I know that you had those rims in mind even before "IT" got to you and I have to say that you were dead on!!! Great look on the car. Hopefully swapping out the coil eliminates at least part of the problems.
 
Nice '72! I always end up with cars that need both mechanical/electrical and body work.....and I'm no body man. Don't get frustrated as you have what I consider the best year duster ever made. Of course, that's my opinion and you know what they say about opinions, lol!

These are 36 years old and just the fact that it's still running is a tribute to Mopar engineering. These guys never thought, nor even imagined that these cars would still be haulin' *** when most of them are retired.

Another thing I noticed too...... Compared to my 2 year younger Ramcharger, the A bodies were much better made. Much more care seemed to be put in the spot welds, panel alignment, etc. It might have to do with the uni-body design requireing closer tolerances. I don't know for sure not being a Chrysler engineer.

I can tell you this......I shut the door on my $500 Duster project and it has this beautiful, tight "thunk" that just brings back memories of how cars should be made. My DD Toyota 4-Runner sounds like a tin can when I slam the door and it's a '88. No "American Steel" went into that thing. I feel like I'm going break it and have to treat it with kid gloves.

Be proud and fix the little stufff. I'm sure it's not a big deal and thank your lucky stars you're not trying to restore a '72 datsun, lol!
 
Don't know if anyone has been following the swaybar thread in Suspensions, but I've been posting some there.

I got a swaybar from Victory Performance off ebay. Was one of those things where they had a "buy it now", with NO reserve and a low opening bid. They also were giving free shipping! So I bid and got the kit for $31.00!!!!!

It showed up early this week, and I tried to install it. Well it didn't fit very well. Turns out it's an ADDCO bar #150. The biggest problem is a "kick" to the outside which makes the bar about 3" to wide.

I dropped V.P. an email and they told me to call ADDCO. I did, and John was great. It seems this "minor issue" isn't unknown to them. Bottom line is ADDCO is sending me another bar, without the kick in it. So when it arrives next week, I'll reinstall it.

I also ordered me a 37 tooth speedo gear to try to get it close. Damn thing had a 42 tooth in it! At any rate, it cost me $7 and change at the dealership. The original part number has been superseded as you might expect. The goofy thing is the original had the last two digits of the part number on it, which was also the tooth count. They still have the last two digits on them, but they don't match the tooth count any more.

So a bit of ****. These are pics of the "kicked" ADDCO bar installed, and a pic they sent me of one installed without the "kick"

P0002270.jpg


P0002272.jpg


P0002273.jpg


DARTgtdiskbrake 086.jpg
 
What's that freakin' ferd doing in the picture? LOL!

I'm just giving you ****. I had and built quite a few fast fords. Only GM I would ever own is a '69 Chevelle SS 396. My friend had one one in high school that was red, black and original with a 4 speed. I spent a lot time helping him out and he let me drive it in return.
 
That's my 4th Mouse. The first two were vintage though. One was a black 69 MACH with a 351W and a 4 speed. The second was a Calypso Coral 70 MACH with a shaker and a 4 speed.

The 70 was originally a 351 2V with the shaker and 4 speed. Yeah, one of Ford's better ideas. But it had a 428 SCJ, big top loader, nodular 9", and all the proper SCJ pieces transplanted. Cool car.

#3 was a nothing '01 V6 with a stick. Hate to say it, but I like the GT.
 
I had a '72 cougar with a HO 351 cleveland and a FMX tranny. I slapped a Crane Fireball cam in that sucker and could smoke the tires at will. I also had a '75 Mach II with a 302. I pulled that electronic ignition and put in a dual point Accel distributor. Fkn thng hauled *** and handled unlike any early car I ever had. I destroyed that car and a relationship all in one stupid moment.

When everyone hated the 400M I built one with custom made TRW flat top pistons and austrailain closed chamber heads. I was young and didn't understand the torque curve vs. gear ratio and convertor issue.

This Torino could could easily cruise at 120+ (2.73 rear gear) and actually handled well. I drove from Southern Illinois Unversity (where my girlfriend blew me off) to the north side of Chicago in 4.5 hours. I had that 120 speedo burried most of the way. No joke.

My second to last X, Who is still a good friend can verify that that Torino could easy cruise at 100+ for hundreds of miles. No bullshit.

I forgot to add this.....Mopar fans will hate me. Nothing in the world sounds like a 351C or 400M ford at 6K. It's just sweet. I hope I can choke on these words. Doktor X heard my truck and said it just sounded "Evil"! He hasn't even't had the priviledge of slamming this 5200 lb truck in second to pass some freakin' BMW on the highway, LOL!

I have! And its worth every freakin' penny
 
First let me say thank you to all that sent me PM's. You know what for.

And for those thoughtful and interested enough to ask about progress on "IT", I've made some.

Today I pulled the sissyboy radiator, flex fan, and electric fan and installed a 22" factory square top I got from az. I also installed a 7 blade factory looking flex fan. It will work well with a shroud once I get one. I had intended to install a fan and clutch I got off ebay that was supposedly from a 340 A body.....but it doesn't fit. Lastly I pulled the rear wheels and painted the drums. I've also scored a floor shift column which I will install soon.

I also installed the replacement ADDCO sway bar (which finally arrived yesterday). They did it special for me. Anyone who needs more info, please feel free to PM me. I'm serious about my new tag line.

I've included a couple of pics for comparison.

P0002275.jpg


P0002276.jpg
 
i see the problum theres some sneaky mustang in the back ground nice mustang,:happy10: also first ive seen the duster looks real nice good job man
 
Looking good. So when did the radiator finally make it? Was it the extra 2 days?
 
Only took one extra day. The sway bar showed up without a box. My UPS guy said he saw it on the dock, sans box, and thought he knew where it was supposed to go and brought it to me.

I'll post a pic of the radiator and fan when I get it back on the ground.
 
As promised, here is a pic of the lovely Street Hemi Orange rear brake drum. I just had "IT" out but didn't think to take a pic outside.

On the radiator note....

I got things buttoned up and fired "IT" for a test run to see if it would stay cool. Immediately there was something wrong. Sounded like the world coming to an end. So I shut "IT" down to have a look.

I had used this killer fan on a car before with no problems. But it didn't have any "billet" bullshit on it like this does. Has a billet power steering pump and MARCH pulleys on "IT". So between the pitch of the fan blades and the snout of the P/S pulley.....lets see.....7 blades.....1000 RPM......that means 7000 WHACKS Per Minute.

So I pulled the killer fan and put the sissyboy fan back on for the moment. Took it out for a test drive. And while it was relatively cool outside and really NO traffic, I DID get caught at one light for some time. Would have been plenty of time for "IT" to have gone over 200 degrees before the radiator swap. Once moving, the temp dropped back to 180.

"IT's" still going to get a shroud, and I think I have a different 7 blade factory fan and spacer I can try. I think it will clear.....

P0002277.jpg


P0002279.jpg


P0002278.jpg
 
I wounder if your water pump pulley is a differant size and you water pump is moving slower.
I hope the shroud takes care of the temp thing.
Keep us updated on "It" !! Yep a shroud sould help allot.
 
Water pump pulley looks about right. HOWEVER....the CRANK pulley looks kinda small
 
T, I have a shroud #2998325 that has a boo boo on top about 1 1/4" long on the right/passenger side 6 3/8" center to center from the filler neck. :toothy10:
 
Wow. How did you know I would have wanted to know that measurement:toothy10: You must be Clara......(Voyant)

I think I'll be able to obscure boo boo........
 
Wow. How did you know I would have wanted to know that measurement:toothy10: You must be Clara......(Voyant)

......

Here is a pic of same shroud # installed on the Demon :cheers: Hope it helps.
 
-
Back
Top