JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
HDK (hemidenny is the owner). And they are rock solid. I love them. Here is a link...
HDK Front Suspension Parts For Mopars
Jeep 4.0 in 69 Barracuda
- Thread starter JohnFM3
- Start date
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HDK (hemidenny is the owner). And they are rock solid. I love them. Here is a link...
HDK Front Suspension Parts For Mopars
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
OMG the lower control arms came out great. I am so much happier with the results. And they are actually mirror of each other. I wish this was the product which AJE Suspension had sold.
I will get some more pictures abit later, but just got home from picking these up and had to get a picture on the thread right away.
In short, you can see that the heim joint bung for both joints are parallel. Which is a far cry from the set I bought. Also one can notice the baja style plate to stiffen the control arm and give a better option for locating the shock mounting tabs. The shock mounting tabs for the left and right control arm are located in the same spot. And who can miss the Mopar Performance "M" cut out. What I have not gotten a picture of yet is the much larger lower heim joint over the set sold from AJE. It will still use the Mustang 2 lower ball joint as sold by AJE. The ones the kit cam with seem to be cheap, as such I may only use them for suspension mock up, then replace them for MOOG when the car is finished.
I am supper stoked....
LOL
Can not wait to get them on the car. That will hopefully be this coming weekend.
I will get some more pictures abit later, but just got home from picking these up and had to get a picture on the thread right away.
In short, you can see that the heim joint bung for both joints are parallel. Which is a far cry from the set I bought. Also one can notice the baja style plate to stiffen the control arm and give a better option for locating the shock mounting tabs. The shock mounting tabs for the left and right control arm are located in the same spot. And who can miss the Mopar Performance "M" cut out. What I have not gotten a picture of yet is the much larger lower heim joint over the set sold from AJE. It will still use the Mustang 2 lower ball joint as sold by AJE. The ones the kit cam with seem to be cheap, as such I may only use them for suspension mock up, then replace them for MOOG when the car is finished.
I am supper stoked....
LOLCan not wait to get them on the car. That will hopefully be this coming weekend.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Disappointment... with all the excitement I opted to try assembling the front suspension to check fitment tonight, and was met with a blocking issue. The coils on my coilovers hit the chassis. One issue I believe is the lower control arm shock/coilover mount is too far from the lower control arm ball joint.
I need to get some information and make corrections.
I need to get some information and make corrections.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
So after some discussion with Denny from HDK, what i suspected was confirmed. He was able to get me a center-to-center measurement from lower ball joint and lower shock/coilover mount of 2.25 inch. Which looking at some of the pictures I took, look like it will land about right.
Sadly this means cutting off those tabs, sanding off some powder coating, and re welding the tabs in the new location. And of course having the parts re powder coated.
More pictures to come.
Sadly this means cutting off those tabs, sanding off some powder coating, and re welding the tabs in the new location. And of course having the parts re powder coated.
More pictures to come.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
To my friends in the community.
Many people here have been a big help and inspiration while I have gone thru this process. And I thank everyone. I want to take a moment to make a shout out to HemiDenny at HDK who has gone over and beyond trying to help me with the AJE suspension system I bought for this project with many emails and communications.
After alot of persistence and support by HemiDenny, I came to the decision to no longer fight that kit to be used in a way it was not meant and follow his suggestion in utilizing a more OEM style setup.
In the end, I have installed the OEM K-Member back in the car. With purchase of additional parts needed, I now have the following going into the car...
73 - 76 Steering link components including the V8 center link
73 - 76 Power Steering box
73 - 76 Lower Ball Joints
73 - 76 Steering Knuckles
73 - 76 Rotors with big bolt pattern
HDK Upper Control Arms
HDK Lower Control Arms
HDK Shock Hoops
HDK steering column shaft for use with Flaming River knuckle style coupler
QA1 Shocks and Coils
I need to purchase front single piston brake calipers and other brake components. I will also be picking up a Ford8.8 (3.73 with limited slip) and having the long side narrowed ~3in to utilize the shorter axle shaft on both sides so it fits under the car. That will get me a rear end with large drum brakes and a easy bolt-in upgrade option to disk brakes in the rear of the car with a big bolt pattern matching the mopar fronts. May Mother Mopar forgive me for using a ford axle in my car... lol At least the engine will be a Chrysler Era.
Once the car is back on the ground, I will start looking at what needs to be done to fit the Jeep 4.0L in the car. Have to look at whether to modify the oil pan, notch the K-Member, or both. I am also wandering about considering notching the firewall 2 inch deep to allow the engine to sit back a bit further. More to follow on that.
The big thing I care about is avoiding the need for a fiberglass pro-stock hood with a full length cowl induction scoop to fit the engine under.
This project had not stopped. It was just stalled a while during which I had to do some thinking and make some choices. I will be moving forward with more activity on it in the coming months. The suspension parts are being shipped now, I plan on having a update on this thread in the next month after getting the front end on the ground. Pictures to come at that time.
Again, "Thank You" everyone, and a big "Thank You" to hemidenny
Many people here have been a big help and inspiration while I have gone thru this process. And I thank everyone. I want to take a moment to make a shout out to HemiDenny at HDK who has gone over and beyond trying to help me with the AJE suspension system I bought for this project with many emails and communications.
After alot of persistence and support by HemiDenny, I came to the decision to no longer fight that kit to be used in a way it was not meant and follow his suggestion in utilizing a more OEM style setup.
In the end, I have installed the OEM K-Member back in the car. With purchase of additional parts needed, I now have the following going into the car...
73 - 76 Steering link components including the V8 center link
73 - 76 Power Steering box
73 - 76 Lower Ball Joints
73 - 76 Steering Knuckles
73 - 76 Rotors with big bolt pattern
HDK Upper Control Arms
HDK Lower Control Arms
HDK Shock Hoops
HDK steering column shaft for use with Flaming River knuckle style coupler
QA1 Shocks and Coils
I need to purchase front single piston brake calipers and other brake components. I will also be picking up a Ford8.8 (3.73 with limited slip) and having the long side narrowed ~3in to utilize the shorter axle shaft on both sides so it fits under the car. That will get me a rear end with large drum brakes and a easy bolt-in upgrade option to disk brakes in the rear of the car with a big bolt pattern matching the mopar fronts. May Mother Mopar forgive me for using a ford axle in my car... lol At least the engine will be a Chrysler Era.
Once the car is back on the ground, I will start looking at what needs to be done to fit the Jeep 4.0L in the car. Have to look at whether to modify the oil pan, notch the K-Member, or both. I am also wandering about considering notching the firewall 2 inch deep to allow the engine to sit back a bit further. More to follow on that.
The big thing I care about is avoiding the need for a fiberglass pro-stock hood with a full length cowl induction scoop to fit the engine under.
This project had not stopped. It was just stalled a while during which I had to do some thinking and make some choices. I will be moving forward with more activity on it in the coming months. The suspension parts are being shipped now, I plan on having a update on this thread in the next month after getting the front end on the ground. Pictures to come at that time.
Again, "Thank You" everyone, and a big "Thank You" to hemidenny
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Hey everyone, I am back again. Its been 7yrs in the making, I got great news, the Barracuda is ready to go to a Fabrication shop to have the Jeep 4.0L engine welded in. Its leaving my house in the next 2 weeks. I have secured a deal with the shop and I am purchasing the last parts needed now. When it returns, I will have a Jeep 4.0L installed, with a Ford Ranger 28 spline 8.8 rear axle rocking 3.73 gears, limited slip, and large drum brakes in the rear. Of course the front will be running the mid 70's mopar single piston disk brakes. All 5x4.5 bolt pattern.
After its done at the fab shop, it goes to a Jeep shop to have the stand alone Jeep engine harness built.
Its my goal to have this jeep starting by end of summer. How well it runs will depend on the condition of my Mock engine. Which I dont count on being very good.
So here is the next thing to work on. Wheels and Tires.
I know this is a subjective thing, but I need suggestions as I am finding answers all over the board on the internet.
The rear axle is 58.5in at the wheel mating surface. Making it 3/4in wider on each side of the car than the original.
I have some American Racing 6 spoke aluminum 15in wheels which are 9in wide (yes, they came off a jeep) with a 4 5/8 offset inside measurement with the correct 5x4.5 bolt pattern.
I am looking for recommendations.
Are my wheels too wide and deep with the extra width of the axle? I am not able to check as the axle is not in the car yet. I may have to buy some cheep wheels to get the car home on after the 8.8 is installed.
I still need to decide on tires if these wheels will fit. Thinking more of a touring look. 265/50/15 possibly.
Thanks,
John Moore
After its done at the fab shop, it goes to a Jeep shop to have the stand alone Jeep engine harness built.
Its my goal to have this jeep starting by end of summer. How well it runs will depend on the condition of my Mock engine. Which I dont count on being very good.
So here is the next thing to work on. Wheels and Tires.
I know this is a subjective thing, but I need suggestions as I am finding answers all over the board on the internet.
The rear axle is 58.5in at the wheel mating surface. Making it 3/4in wider on each side of the car than the original.
I have some American Racing 6 spoke aluminum 15in wheels which are 9in wide (yes, they came off a jeep) with a 4 5/8 offset inside measurement with the correct 5x4.5 bolt pattern.
I am looking for recommendations.
Are my wheels too wide and deep with the extra width of the axle? I am not able to check as the axle is not in the car yet. I may have to buy some cheep wheels to get the car home on after the 8.8 is installed.
I still need to decide on tires if these wheels will fit. Thinking more of a touring look. 265/50/15 possibly.
Thanks,
John Moore
I can’t give you any recommendations based on your setup but if you can use the wheels you currently have, it will save you some coin for something else.
I had that problem as I have 2 sets of wheels- a set of Mirada 15 inch 10 spokes and a set of 14 inch Magnum 500’s. I knew the 15 in rims would fit my Dart with 4 wheel disc brakes but decided to see if the Magnums would fit the rear with Mustang based discs. The Magnums cleared the calipers by about a 1/4 inch. That saved me from having to buy another set of 15 in wheels as my 47 definitely requires 15 in wheels - perfect for my Mirada wheels
I had that problem as I have 2 sets of wheels- a set of Mirada 15 inch 10 spokes and a set of 14 inch Magnum 500’s. I knew the 15 in rims would fit my Dart with 4 wheel disc brakes but decided to see if the Magnums would fit the rear with Mustang based discs. The Magnums cleared the calipers by about a 1/4 inch. That saved me from having to buy another set of 15 in wheels as my 47 definitely requires 15 in wheels - perfect for my Mirada wheels
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Hopefully I can, otherwise I am in trouble trying to get the car home until I buy another set of wheels.
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Denny is the best, and he has great products. He really helped me with my swap when I got into my own way! Just a great guy and has forgotten more about Mopar geometry than I will ever know. I am still rocking his front end.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Motor Mounts received.
Ford 8.8 axle mounting kit ordered.
Ford 8.8 axle mounting kit ordered.
Cruisingram
Well-Known Member
I build jeeps more than anything right now- I have 11. I am planning on opening a motorcycle and jeep rental agency in the next year. So this is a very interesting thread for me! I am kinda curious about the trans and EFI issues. I would guess the best bet would be to find an AX -15 two wheel drive trans 5 speed for it, and convert it to carb. No option for a mechanical fuel pump though- my "franken jeep" XJ has this set up. I see you are planning on using the 2whl AW4 and keeping EFI though- are you an electrical kinda guy? I found that to be a nightmare on these things. love to hear how you plan on working around it.
Cruisingram
Well-Known Member
Here is a pic of my franken Jeep- an 88 XJ 4whl auto EFI originally, converted by some owner in the past to a 2whl drive carb 5 speed. On yours, I highly suggest something similar, unless you are really good with the wiring. The effort needed to make all the electronics work vs just deleted them was pretty huge. Set screws in all the injector ports, a 150 buck two barrell carb and the bullet proof 2whl drive AX-15 (which is far cheaper than the 4 wheel drive version) did make the swap much easier, obviously. The PO even went so far as to swap in the 2wheel drive front axle, which I found a bit interesting. There were lots of weird mickey rigged things about this car, but the overall cost and ease of swap made sense (it's all out of a 94 2whl XJ I think) - also, I am swapping in a wrangler D35 into my 68 Dart right now, and so far, it looks easy-peasy and great brakes!
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
I threw up the AW4 as an option. But not a preferred one as I really want a manual.
Fuel Injection is the easiest part of this project. Grab a Late model YJ (94-95) ECU and Engine harness and build a stand-alone engine harness including the Fuse Block in the engine compartment. The benefit to the YJ harness is its simplicity, and it still uses CJ style gauges. Even the Speed-o which has 2 options, thru the ECU or mechanical. Since I will maintain the Jeep ECU, the timing and alternator will be remain OEM Jeep. For those who don't know, the Jeep 4.0L ignition timing is controlled by the ECU. Drop the Distributor in, lock in place with a small plate which prevents it from turning. Fire up and listen the jeep idle. Not starting, look at the Crank Position Sensor. No Mass Air Flow sensor. Uses a MAP (Manifold Pressure) sensor. I had more trouble considering my exhaust WANTs with a single O2 sensor. But I believe I got my exhaust wants sorted out.
There is another benefit to the YJ fuel management, vacuum operated mechanical fuel return. Not ECU controlled such as late model XJ and I think TJ. In a CJ-5 Project I converted to FI, I used an external fuel pump (I believe chevy) which met the requirements of the Jeeps Fuel Injection pressure. This also means no modifications to the Fuel Tank as well.
My Transmission options are as follows. For right now, I am installing a 2wd PA-5 from a Manual Jeep XJ. That will fit the Barracuda's trans tunnel with no modifications other than a hole for the shifter. And since the transmission mount is more or less in the same spot, any modifications I make to install in the Barracuda will be flexible to the final trans I install. Ideally, I would like to use a AX-15 if 2wd version can be. Of course, I have dodge options as well such as the Dodge NV4500 found it their trucks. And I will be running a internal slave cylinder to minimize space of the trans tunnel needed.
With 3.73 gears in a Limited Slip Ford 8.8, this car should hook and launch with the correct tires.
Thanks,
John
Cruisingram
Well-Known Member
Oh awesome! I suck at electrical, my main Achilles heal, and tend to make everything mechanical myself. I have been swapping out the 4.0s and putting in Merc diesels in mine, so there is that as well LOL. I put on mechanical fuel injection pumps to the 606 turbos even. Except for motorcycles, where I almost always put on megasquirt EFI on them LOL.
I wish we lived closer together, we could do a real collaborative thrash on these things.
I wish we lived closer together, we could do a real collaborative thrash on these things.
ScamperTom
Supposed to be working
I’m excited for you! This sounds like it’s finally all coming together! And I’d like some feedback from someone actually rubbing a “truck” trans. Most people just skip that option since they’re not geared like a sports car but i don’t see why it wouldn’t be great on the street.
I have the ranger axle and moved my springs in towards the frame 1/2” per side. I don’t have precise measurements but my wheels are about 11” wide overall with around 7” of backspacing and 4” from the drum to the outside lip of the wheel. I had to trim the quarter well lip and the tires (275) just barely fit with 1/2” of clearance to the leafs, they do rub the inside of the well under cornering. This is on a scamp. You didn’t mention your backspacing but with 9” wheels you should have a little more clearance than me. Unfortunately without precise measurements for your wheels you probably can’t estimate how close they’ll be. I can check to see if they’d fit my car if you get me some measurements, though.
I have the ranger axle and moved my springs in towards the frame 1/2” per side. I don’t have precise measurements but my wheels are about 11” wide overall with around 7” of backspacing and 4” from the drum to the outside lip of the wheel. I had to trim the quarter well lip and the tires (275) just barely fit with 1/2” of clearance to the leafs, they do rub the inside of the well under cornering. This is on a scamp. You didn’t mention your backspacing but with 9” wheels you should have a little more clearance than me. Unfortunately without precise measurements for your wheels you probably can’t estimate how close they’ll be. I can check to see if they’d fit my car if you get me some measurements, though.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
@75slant6 runs an AX-15 5-speed manual in his Duster behind a mild 360 Magnum and he likes it, the ratios go better with taller rear axle gears though (deep 1st, not very tall 5th) I think he's running 3.23s or 2.94s (?) They do have a pretty wide spread between gears especially 2nd-3rd but with a torquey street engine that shouldn't be an issue.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Thats kind of what I am thinking. My jeep wrangler runs 33in tires with 3.73 gears. A Automatic (AW4) XJ Cherokee runs 3.55 gears. And many manual trans XJs run 3.23 Gears and a AX-15.
My current trans is from a 4cyl YJ Wrangler (Peugeot BA-5) which had factory 4.11 gears in it. On my axle I am starting with the 3.73 gears and going from there. Once the car is road worthy, I will put a replacement trans based on options. I am really interested in speaking with 75Slant6 now hearing that user used a AX-15 which is the targeted trans of choice.
Thanks,
John
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
My wheels are as follows....
note: Taking picture 1 handed while holding measuring tape with other hand. Pictures may skew measurements some. The overall width is accurate at 9in.
Backspacing is just under 4 in.
From mounting surface to front is just under 5.5in
Total width is about 9in
Front Angled Profile
Front Profile
Cruisingram
Well-Known Member
Really loving this project, want to see these rims on the cuda man!
Ironracer
Gearhead
Dude that's gonna be Sick! We had a 4.0 Cherokee w/ Large knobbies that would Burn them for 30' easy! Had one Ina GC that I drove for years before a **** *** left turned in our path... Jeep and Mopar! YEEEHAAAWW!
Yeah I’m running an AX-15 in my Duster, along with 2.76 gears and 25.6” tires. I had 3.23s in it originally and 1st gear was next to useless.
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
Dude, thanks for reaching out. Crud, I was concerned about the gearing. My Ford 8.8 has 3.73 gears and a limited slip.
What I really wanted to know, do you have a internal or external clutch slave cylinder? How was the fitment in the trans tunnel? Any tunnel modifications required?
Thanks,
John
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
If I can fit them with tires under the car, they will go on and pictures will be posted here. My hope is for 50 series tires. Somewhere around 245 front and 285 rear or some similar offset.
Thanks,
John
I used an external master/slave setup from a mid 90s s10. A previous owner had hacked out the tunnel with a torch for a 4 speed so I had to completely redo the tunnel and upper crossmember.
yeah with 3.73s you’re gonna need to put some 35” boggers on that barracuda!
JohnFM3
Well-Known Member
I used an external master/slave setup from a mid 90s s10. A previous owner had hacked out the tunnel with a torch for a 4 speed so I had to completely redo the tunnel and upper crossmember.
yeah with 3.73s you’re gonna need to put some 35” boggers on that barracuda!
So I looked thru your thread, and posted. What is the measurement of the mating surface of the transmission to the firewall? I ask this as my install linds that mating surface right under the firewall metal. And I am now thinking my shifter may be located at the transmission cross member. hmm I was expecting it to be behind the cross member.
I am really interested in your transmission mount/cross member. What mount did you go with? I am doing something alittle different. There is a aftermarket part called a Stinger installed on the bumper on jeeps to prevent jeep from rolling over rear over front when coming down on steep declines. I am having a stinger made to bolt to the 2 lower transmission to engine bolts (the 2 big ones), then run under the car to the back of the transmission output. Weld tabs to make use of existing cross member mounting. This will sit just below the transmission so that any speed bumps are not bashing a hole in my transmission. For looks, I may have a driveline hoop fab'd to attach to the end of the mounting system, but we will see.
Once the car leaves this fri, I probably wont have it back for 5 to 6 weeks. First to the Fab shop for engine and transmission install. Then the same fab shop will install the ford 8.8. That work should be about 2 to 3 weeks. Then the car is towed to a jeep shop who will build a custom stand alone engine fuel management harness. It could be there for a week or 2 depending on projects ahead of me. Afterwards should end up at the exhaust shop for a factory inspired XJ exhaust. 2.25 head pipe to Cat Converter, from CC 2.5 in pipe into a flowmaster 40 series muffler (chambered), 2.5in exhaust out of muffler and over the axle and out the rear. Yes I am installing a Cat Converter. Doing so the ECU fuel management wont complain as I am making use of the O2 sensor as well. As the ECU is not being reprogrammed yet. That said, I run MagnaFlow hi flow half cat's, its about as close to NO cat converter as you can get while still making the ECU happy. And its noticeable on the skinny pedal.
Anyone who has heard a 4.0L cherokee or grand cherokee with that system knows what it sounds like. And its mean. You can bet I will have youtube video of first start.
Keep everyone posted.
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