Jeep 4.0 in 69 Barracuda

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JohnFM3 said:
So I looked thru your thread, and posted. What is the measurement of the mating surface of the transmission to the firewall? I ask this as my install linds that mating surface right under the firewall metal. And I am now thinking my shifter may be located at the transmission cross member. hmm I was expecting it to be behind the cross member.

I am really interested in your transmission mount/cross member. What mount did you go with? I am doing something alittle different. There is a aftermarket part called a Stinger installed on the bumper on jeeps to prevent jeep from rolling over rear over front when coming down on steep declines. I am having a stinger made to bolt to the 2 lower transmission to engine bolts (the 2 big ones), then run under the car to the back of the transmission output. Weld tabs to make use of existing cross member mounting. This will sit just below the transmission so that any speed bumps are not bashing a hole in my transmission. For looks, I may have a driveline hoop fab'd to attach to the end of the mounting system, but we will see.

Once the car leaves this fri, I probably wont have it back for 5 to 6 weeks. First to the Fab shop for engine and transmission install. Then the same fab shop will install the ford 8.8. That work should be about 2 to 3 weeks. Then the car is towed to a jeep shop who will build a custom stand alone engine fuel management harness. It could be there for a week or 2 depending on projects ahead of me. Afterwards should end up at the exhaust shop for a factory inspired XJ exhaust. 2.25 head pipe to Cat Converter, from CC 2.5 in pipe into a flowmaster 40 series muffler (chambered), 2.5in exhaust out of muffler and over the axle and out the rear. Yes I am installing a Cat Converter. Doing so the ECU fuel management wont complain as I am making use of the O2 sensor as well. As the ECU is not being reprogrammed yet. That said, I run MagnaFlow hi flow half cat's, its about as close to NO cat converter as you can get while still making the ECU happy. And its noticeable on the skinny pedal.

Anyone who has heard a 4.0L cherokee or grand cherokee with that system knows what it sounds like. And its mean. You can bet I will have youtube video of first start.

Keep everyone posted.
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I’ll have to check to see where the bellhousing flange is located in relation to the firewall. I do know that in the position that my engine/trans is in, the back end of the shifter would probably interfere with the front edge of the upper trans crossmember. As far as my trans mount goes, I believe I bought the mount/isolator at autozone, it was for a Chevy transmission and I just elongated one of the holes on the transmission to make it work.
 
I was thinking that a modern V6 like in my 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee might be a nice swap in a 69 Barracuda. It is surprisingly powerful, gets good gas milage and drives smoothly.
 
Com'on man. We want more pictures and less blah blah blah. lol
 
harrisonm said:
I was thinking that a modern V6 like in my 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee might be a nice swap in a 69 Barracuda. It is surprisingly powerful, gets good gas milage and drives smoothly.
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75slant6 said:
@myduster360 did a 3.6 pentastar engine in a 72 Dart.
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Maybe so, but there is no argument that the 4.0L is the most iconic JEEP engine out there. And in respect of the Slant 6, was the obvious choice of all in the inline 6's while still remaining a Chrysler power plant.

The pentastar would have been a easy swap due to its size in comparison to the 4.0L. Unlike the other Jeep engines, the YJ 4.0L fuel management is probably the simplest system out there.

I have a shop trying to convince me to consider the TJ ECU which gets me into ODB2. The O2 sensor situation and the fuel return are the 2 issues I am concerned about. With Fuel return, I believe the TJ ECU controls the fuel pump pressure instead of a vacuum operated fuel return system. The modifications to the fuel tank or more like the cost to make the modifications was not something I wanted to deal with at first. The situation with the O2 sensor is that I believe the TJ ECU has a up stream and down stream O2. With me going the TJ dual headers, that means 4 O2's. Where as if I stick with a YJ system, I have 1 X pipe where the O2 sensor is located (at the firewall) and I can run a dual exhaust system.

More to come. As I said, the next picture to be added will be the car on the tow truck.

John
 
JohnFM3 said:
Maybe so, but there is no argument that the 4.0L is the most iconic JEEP engine out there. And in respect of the Slant 6, was the obvious choice of all in the inline 6's while still remaining a Chrysler power plant.

The pentastar would have been a easy swap due to its size in comparison to the 4.0L. Unlike the other Jeep engines, the YJ 4.0L fuel management is probably the simplest system out there.

I have a shop trying to convince me to consider the TJ ECU which gets me into ODB2. The O2 sensor situation and the fuel return are the 2 issues I am concerned about. With Fuel return, I believe the TJ ECU controls the fuel pump pressure instead of a vacuum operated fuel return system. The modifications to the fuel tank or more like the cost to make the modifications was not something I wanted to deal with at first. The situation with the O2 sensor is that I believe the TJ ECU has a up stream and down stream O2. With me going the TJ dual headers, that means 4 O2's. Where as if I stick with a YJ system, I have 1 X pipe where the O2 sensor is located (at the firewall) and I can run a dual exhaust system.

More to come. As I said, the next picture to be added will be the car on the tow truck.

John
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regardless of engine 3.6 or 4.0, the Down stream O2 isn't needed, just the Upstream O2

The only Chrysler PCM to actively control fuel pressure is a Hellcat/Demon.
So that TJ 4.0 pcm should expect a static 55-58psi at the dead head fuel rail like most Chryslers.
The easy way to regulate fuel to to a dead head fuel rail is either

1. Holley Drop in pump/regulator assembly
Holley Sniper EFI 12-319 Holley EFI Fuel Tank Modules - 255 LPH - Mopar A-Body
12-319_02.jpg

2. Use Tanks Inc Fuel tank + a 97-2000 Corvette Fuel Filter which has its own regulator already set to 58psi
corvette-style-filterregulator-with-an6-adapter-fittings-514088.jpg
 
myduster360 said:
regardless of engine 3.6 or 4.0, the Down stream O2 isn't needed, just the Upstream O2

The only Chrysler PCM to actively control fuel pressure is a Hellcat/Demon.
So that TJ 4.0 pcm should expect a static 55-58psi at the dead head fuel rail like most Chryslers.
The easy way to regulate fuel to to a dead head fuel rail is either

1. Holley Drop in pump/regulator assembly
Holley Sniper EFI 12-319 Holley EFI Fuel Tank Modules - 255 LPH - Mopar A-Body

2. Use Tanks Inc Fuel tank + a 97-2000 Corvette Fuel Filter which has its own regulator already set to 58psi
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I would be interested in speaking with you on this more later after I speak with the Jeep shop when they receive the car.
Though I am considering a TJ harness and ECU, I am more prone to stay with YJ harness and ECU for its simplicity.

Thanks,
John
 
One of the key aspects of my build is to be able to approach the repair facilities and auto parts store with 95 Jeep Wrangler (YJ) or 2006 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) for all things fuel management, Wiring, and ECU and other electrical needs such as the ECU controlled Alternator (used on YJ, XJ and newer models) and the ECU controlled timing of the Distributor. Yes I can work around this, but that adds complexity and the possibility of repair shops not wanting to get involved. I really am not wanting to mix and match this part of the car such as Jeep Engine and parts, custom wiring such as Painless, and some other Chrysler ecu such as for the Hellcat. Makes it harder to get assistance when it comes to repairs which need to be done that I dont want to do.

With my implementation, I can take car to a jeep repair shop, say all things are 2006 Jeep Wrangler and they can run with troubleshooting. If missing a down stream O2 will cause a check engine code, then it needs to be added unless there is a TJ fuel management which only requires a single O2. Maybe a 96 TJ system would work with that.

~ John
 
with the work you have done, and you know what went into it better than anyone
Why then would you be worried about a shop of some sort having to do anything on this car?
NOBODY touches my stuff. and on stuff I have to farm out (like a front end alignment for instance) I am right there watching their every move. or they don't do anything for me.
 
volaredon said:
...Why then would you be worried about a shop of some sort having to do anything on this car?....
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Most important reason. Bragging. To show off what I built. This vehicle will be a head snapper from those who work on it to those who see it. On a more serious note. I have a good working relationship with the Volkswagen dealership where I bought my MK6 jetta Tdi. Enough that I take my 2003 MK4 Tdi in for all its service. When it comes to Jeeps, I do almost ALL my own work. Unless I just dont have time or interest. My 1992 wrangler is built, not bought. From a $700 rollover to a pretty clean trail used YJ rocking a complete CJ front nose. My 1997 cherokee was a 2wd sport with a hole thru the engine block, converted to a 4wd and new engine done by me. That said, if I do get stuck or just dont have the time to do the work on my Jeeps from time to time, as such I have a local Jeep specialist who I take my jeeps and I have a good relationship with the service department of the local Jeep Dealership. Both the VW and Jeep Dealerships are are looking forward to seeing the barracuda. I have a good relationship and trust for them. I will def take it in for general oil and fluid changes like Antifreeze, transmission, and such. And things I do, I have the Jeep forum to reference. But again, its best to keep this part of the build complete and OEM or known Jeep Aftermarket parts.
 
JohnFM3 said:
Most important reason. Bragging. To show off what I built. This vehicle will be a head snapper from those who work on it to those who see it.
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more like a head scratcher, but hey, you do you
 
diymirage said:
more like a head scratcher, but hey, you do you
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Based on the feedback from this thread as well as other comments, there seems to be very little haters. Not to say I wont meet up with some, or purist. But in general the response has been positive.
 
JohnFM3 said:
Based on the feedback from this thread as well as other comments, there seems to be very little haters. Not to say I wont meet up with some, or purist. But in general the response has been positive.
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good to hear

as exceptional as the 4.0 is, i just dont see the point...but then again, id be much more inclined to slap an A body on a jeep frame and plow with it
 
diymirage said:
good to hear

as exceptional as the 4.0 is, i just dont see the point...but then again, id be much more inclined to slap an A body on a jeep frame and plow with it
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V8's are too easy to build. More or less bolt on power. I had a mid 13sec slant six in my 72 duster which I built. Had the respect of the V8 guys. More so, the 4.0L in a A-Body has been discussed several times, but never attempted. I love my jeeps, I love my A-Body Mopars. I have have had several of both. Now I am going to do what has only been talked about.
 
JohnFM3 said:
V8's are too easy to build. More or less bolt on power. I had a mid 13sec slant six in my 72 duster which I built. Had the respect of the V8 guys. More so, the 4.0L in a A-Body has been discussed several times, but never attempted. I love my jeeps, I love my A-Body Mopars. I have have had several of both. Now I am going to do what has only been talked about.
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There was a series on the PowerNation shows where Newcomer Racing built a 600+ HP stroked and turbo (or maybe centrifugal-blown?) Jeep 4.0L. Lots of trick stuff but just goes to show what you can do with that platform. Slant 6..... ehhh idk that tiny bore is a power killer and the ports need to be about twice as big lol.
 
MoparR&D, thanks for the info, I will look that up.

Jeep 4.0L stroker kit to build a 5.0L....
505 Performance

bottom of page

I have the parts from a CJ to build a stroked 4.0L (I think 4.6L ~ I would have to look back into what i had and what it builds again). Unsure if that will go into my wrangler or the barracuda.
 
I couldn't afford to have someone work on my vehicle if I had to let alone if it wanted to.
And I just sold a 99 Dakota a couple of months ago that I was originally impressed with because it's the 1st vehicle I ever bought that had a pile of recipts from the past owner. He had them going back to 2002, til I got it in 2019. I was impressed with the fact it seemed to have been well maintained. It was among the bigger mistakes in vehicle purchases I have ever had. If I lived close to the shop the ol boy took that thing to so regularly i'd go punch someone there for as bad as they took advantage of the poor ol guy.
And most of what I had to do to that truck while I had it was repeat of what they already ripped the guy for, some things more times than 3 vehicles should need in a lifetime. .
And another thing 1200 miles before I got it he took it to them for an alignment "pulls left". A month later (like 300 miles) he took it back for another alignment, and they charged him again.
When I bought it, All the way home it pulled right. HARD. As soon as I got home I jacked up the front end. 3 of the ball joints were ready to fall out!
You cannot align slop. I was an alignment guy for around 20 years. I replaced the front end took it for another alignment and no more pull. Now there is no justifiable reason that truck should have needed 3 alignments in that few miles. Besides incompetence that is. And just how many belts and tensioners should 1 vehicle need before it reaches 105k miles? Cuz that's what it had when I got it.
Now they can take his money but leave him with an unsafe ride...and there was nothing on the bill to say there was a problem. I don't need no more reason to do my own work myself than that.
Ease of someone else working on something would be my last reason for anything I do to a vehicle.
Now ease of my remembering what kind of vehicle the parts were originally for, easy (self) serviceability, easy access to common maintenance parts now that's different.
 
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Has anyone had to work on the rear window regulator system? Mine was spaghetti and required cutting out and replacing. The one I got had bad grommets on the bolts which hold the glass to the brace. Which is still better than what I had which was nothing. I was hoping I had workable items.

With the car leaving in under 48hrs, I dont have time to purchase the correct ones. Does anyone have any ideas what I can use to hold the glass with out damaging it?

John
 
volaredon said:
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Ease of someone else working on something would be my last reason for anything I do to a vehicle.
Now ease of my remembering what kind of vehicle the parts were originally for, easy (self) serviceability, easy access to common maintenance parts now that's different.
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I understand your point. Lived by it for a long time while my wife and I went to college 1 at a time while other was supporting our family with 5 kids (4 hers, 1 mine). I in my first quarter restarting after quiting a few years back when I met her. After I graduated, I offered her the chance to quit work, stay with kids, and get her education. Hard work and sacrifice has paid off.

My moto is built not bought. That said, I know my limits. Structural welding and fabrication is not my skill set. I am a IT sys admin, not a metal fabricator. I rebuild engines has a hobby, replace front ends, and even light body work including painting (not the best, but good enough to get the primer coat on). So I work hard to get the loans to pay people to do what I am not confident to do when I want it done right the first time when I dont believe I can.

Thanks for your interest in my build. Hopefully you continue to find it interesting. After several years of chat, this build is taking off. ~ John
 
i lost track of the Hemi 265 idea
i have a RHD car with one
and i can confirm tthat the LHD seering box position and the fact that the hemi 6 uses a high starter position would cause problems with any performance headers

you may be able to get away with the single or dual outlet standard cast iron manifolds and some re routeing.... or go out through the fender wall there is more space on the USA drivers side of the car... RHD cars use a US floor pan so we suffer with everything steering and peddle related, on the narrow side....

other option is modified K hemi 265 frame from Elko performance in Oz with a rack and pinion off a US chevy/holden derived GM police car
aussie k frames are A body and will bolt up no probs, its all the same as a 68 dart

when it comes to FI on a hemi 265 DCOE style inlet DCOE style boddies
these injectors should do the job for its 700CC cylinders 6 GENUINE BOSCH 0280155831 1999-2005 VOLVO S80/ XC90 2.8L 2.9L TURBO | eBay

PowerMods ECUs from south africa are cheap
injection pump off a ford truck is cheap
SherryBerg(ali express shop) Jinlin Fajs DCOE boddies are cheap go with the 40 MM
45 will allow the thing to rev to 7000+ but the motors work best 1000-6000
flywheel comes off if you hang about redline 5500 for too long harmonics are a problem in a long engine

you'd need a cam stop
you should pay lots of attention to oil pump.. port it so entrance closes just as exit opens to avoid it trying to compress the oil between the impellor and ring. you can't compress oil so why wear out your pump and drive gears trying to.

No new pumps made in any volume since 1982 its an extinct engine

don't expect more than 40-50fllb oil pressure with 10-15 at ldle when hot
shimming the releif valve will result in the drive coming off or a snapped off pump mount.

great engines but easier in a RHD
designed for your LHD pickup trucks orginally as part of A engine to LA engine project Its a D engine... :)

Dave
 
Dave999 said:
i lost track of the Hemi 265 idea
i have a RHD car with one....

great engines but easier in a RHD
designed for your LHD pickup trucks orginally as part of A engine to LA engine project Its a D engine... :)

Dave
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I envy you... lol I do want a 265, but I dont see that dream coming true till my 3yr old is ready for college. Meanwhile I am building my car with the 4.0L. I have had a lot of different thoughts on the 265 fuel management. I believe that if I do go fuel injection, I am going to run the Jeep YJ for its simplicity. Coupled with the Fox Injection throttle body and injectors. They look like side draft webbers with 1 injector at the intake port.

As far as exhaust manifold, we have a shop near me who builds custom headers. He wont turn his machine on for under $2k. But he does good work. 3 yrs I could buy a built 265 hemi with new side drafts for just over $10K. Then add the other fabrication cost such as exhaust. With additional padding, I was guessing that endeavor would cost me about $17k to $18k. I will do that after I have the car mostly restored. May have to consider a second paint job when doing that which of course would add to the cost.

Needless to say, that dream is not lost. Just postponed.
 
funny old engine
rattly old things but pretty hardy like the slant

i run 318 magnum pistons sticking up 30 thou with the edges machined down and a massive slice off the head.... 12.5:1 silly cam to suit and 45mm webers through a 4 speed. 3.45:1 rear
i like to mix it up with the standard v8 street cars and the odd small block mustang
it will do a 13.9 1/4 on steet tyre with my coolbox in the trunk....

i can not compete with the big boys...but i don't care

alright for mostly standard, and a complete incompetant behind the wheel, sypathetically knocking the stick through the gears..

with the hood off the hole you stick the motor in just looks like your baracuda
just my bulkhead is mirror image

Dave

38000370_10157742793277627_423639394935635968_o.jpg
 
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Dave999 said:
funny old engine
rattly old things but pretty hardy like the slant

i run magnum pistons sticking up 30 thou with the edges machined down and a massive slice off the head.... 12.5:1 silly cam to suit and 45mm webers through a 4 speed. 3.45:1 rear
i like to mix it up with the standard v8 street cars and the odd small block mustang
it will do a 13.9 1/4 on steet tyre with my coolbox in the trunk....

i can not compete with the big boys...but i don't care

alright for mostly strandard, and a complete incompetant behind the wheel, sypathetically knocking the stick through the gears..

Dave
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All I can say is "I am jealous". That is a nice looking car. Thanks again for the info.
 
Today is T Day. T as in Tow Truck.
I got the driver side rear window installed. At the local hardware store, I found Nylon bushings which fit thru the hole in the glass and rubber washers for both sides. Now all of the windows in my car roll up. Not to say the keep the water out, still need to replace the seals. But at least its better than no window at all.

A picture of the car on the Tow Truck to come this evening.

John
 
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