stixx
Well-Known Member
^^^^^^^^ I was just about to suggest that. Good that I kept my mouth shut.
Careful work with a hand drill will do it. And brake line can be used.... plenty of fitting from inverted flare to NPT. I'd put a 1-2" loop in brake line to give some expansion room.Also I don't have a drill press so drilling a hole through a bolt isn't really possible for me but it would be ideal...
Yes, those 45 degree fitting look problematic. but the whole deal looks nicely done!Honestly.. I would probably get 90* fittings instead of 45s the ones I have stick out a fair amount and I'll probably have to change them later on.
I have swapped one side to a 90 for more clearance. As far as restriction I very carefully drilled the connecting hole on the bolt fairly small. Just enough for the tip to break through, if this isn't enough I was going to set up some kind of orifice setup kinda like nitrous solenoids. We'll see how it goes, it oils good with a drill at the moment. But we'll see how the oil control is when it's running hot.Careful work with a hand drill will do it. And brake line can be used.... plenty of fitting from inverted flare to NPT. I'd put a 1-2" loop in brake line to give some expansion room.
Yes, those 45 degree fitting look problematic. but the whole deal looks nicely done!
Do you have any provision for adjusting a restriction to control the flow? Perhaps a straight tapped holed behind the angle fitting in the head, to put a changeable restriction? I am imagining a Holley jet for flow control! (Brass in aluminum is not a good idea unless you can keep all water away... which seems the case here.)
Bitchin' ... I know it works now, got the new engine running and didn't get the valve covers seated properly... oil.. everywhere.Alrighty, just placed my Summit order for the Cometic head gaskets, all the lines and correct (90*) fittings for my oiling setup (thanks again @Toluene56 !!) and some other random parts... plus a cool vintage 1972-style faux-leather Mopar Parts & Service hat for 30% off lol. Should arrive later this week I usually get stuff from Summit in 2-3 business days.
Bitchin' ... I know it works now, got the new engine running and didn't get the valve covers seated properly... oil.. everywhere.
Toluene Dart - '73 swingerNice good to know, do you have a thread of your build?
I'm trying to reproduce your numbers.... I forget... Is this still the stock block and pistons? Pistons around .090" in the hole?
Squeeze is squeeze. The thermo efficiency of the aluminum will not be a draw back. At your altitude, A 9.0-1 ratio is good for 87 octane. If the cam is large-ish, it will just feel a little soft on the bottom end.
It is a matter of the relative temps at the start of combustion, the temps during combustion and the temps at the end of the power stroke. So if the absolute temps vary up or down, but the start, middle and end temps stay relatively the same, the pressures, torque and etc. will be the same.
FWIW: With your dimensional numbers, I am getting 8.9 SCR and 7.2 DCR at sea level (which is the difference I would expect with a cam with advertised intake duration of 274), with 6.2 effective DCR at 5000'. So, yes on the rear gears.....
Or maybe said as 'no lower than stock DCR (and torque), with a gob more lift'. Higher lift to duration ratio tends to be good for street use; several sources for that type of grind. So if you are happy with that torque level and that is the right stock cam ICA number then you will be a happy guy.OK sounds about right, I didn't understand the "boost compression" on the Wallace Racing calculator but I realized it does mean corrected for altitude so I got the same numbers you did. BUT let's try something else... so a bone-stock 5.9L Magnum is rated at 8.8 SCR and with a stock cam having 62 ABDC intake closing (according to online sources), DCR at 5000' elevation is 6.19. And I know for a fact that even at this altitude a stock 5.9 Magnum has boatloads of bottom-end torque right off idle. SOO if my DCR is essentially the same as a bone-stock 5.9 truck engine I'm thinking the low-end torque should be adequate.
Shoot, maybe that's what Jim was shooting for with my cam? Trying to get the DCR the same as a stock engine? Smart, if that's true...
Or maybe said as 'no lower than stock DCR (and torque), with a gob more lift'. Higher lift to duration ratio tends to be good for street use; several sources for that type of grind. So if you are happy with that torque level and that is the right stock cam ICA number then you will be a happy guy.
62 ABDC for the stock cam ICA seems a bit long however.... but I do see that number here: 5.9L Valve Timing Specs
Is this where you got that number? I see the earlier cams are listed at 80 ABDC.... makes me wonder at what lift value these stock advertised numbers were measured.... I see from your cam card that Racer Brown did them at .008" lift.
So maybe the present rear gear is good enough to be happy with? Better for mileage..... unless it ends up being at or below stall speed a lot of the time.