K-Member / Rack & Pinion Steering Suggestions

[72bluNblu]

I've always wondered if we offered a K, plated, ready to bolt in with all our parts if it would be less complicated to choose a vendor.

It would certainly make you a one stop shop!

I really think it would help some folks. I mean, I posted a list that has literally everything anyone needs to fully upgrade the torsion bar suspension and it's "too complicated". The only thing in the entire list that doesn't bolt on are the poly LCA bushings, and you could just leave those out and run the QA1 LCA's as delivered with their already installed rubber bushings and that entire list is direct bolt on. It's no different than an itemized list for a QA1, RMS or HDK, it just isn't assembled. And you can literally click on the links I posted and order all the necessary parts straight from your computer without even changing out of your jammies. Sub in Hotchkis or Bilstein shocks and it all can come from 3 vendors.

Or just order your suspension kit! BAC MOPAR FRONT SUSPENSION KIT - Bergman Auto Craft . I think think the Gen II SPC's are bit of overkill for most especially at their price point. Swap those out with the Gen I's and add the QA1 LCA's and that kit is a full bolt on operation already, if you added the K it would look just like any of the other packages out there.

So yeah, the visual of seeing everything together is pretty powerful. Even if you would still have to touch every single part in the assembly for final torques and final alignment, which apparently no one thinks about. Just because the QA1, RMS or HDK comes assembled doesn't mean you just slap it on and go.

 

[BergmanAutoCraft]

It would certainly make you a one stop shop!

I really think it would help some folks. I mean, I posted a list that has literally everything anyone needs to fully upgrade the torsion bar suspension and it's "too complicated". The only thing in the entire list that doesn't bolt on are the poly LCA bushings, and you could just leave those out and run the QA1 LCA's as delivered with their already installed rubber bushings and that entire list is direct bolt on. It's no different than an itemized list for a QA1, RMS or HDK, it just isn't assembled. And you can literally click on the links I posted and order all the necessary parts straight from your computer without even changing out of your jammies. Sub in Hotchkis or Bilstein shocks and it all can come from 3 vendors.

Or just order your suspension kit! BAC MOPAR FRONT SUSPENSION KIT - Bergman Auto Craft . I think think the Gen II SPC's are bit of overkill for most especially at their price point. Swap those out with the Gen I's and add the QA1 LCA's and that kit is a full bolt on operation already, if you added the K it would look just like any of the other packages out there.

So yeah, the visual of seeing everything together is pretty powerful. Even if you would still have to touch every single part in the assembly for final torques and final alignment, which apparently no one thinks about. Just because the QA1, RMS or HDK comes assembled doesn't mean you just slap it on and go.

I'd assemble everything. Sorry, no QA1 uppers or lowers. Only the best, which is why I've made or assembled the parts I use.

 

[go-fish]

I've always wondered if we offered a K, plated, ready to bolt in with all our parts if it would be less complicated to choose a vendor.

Many of the parts on my set up are from you. @BergmanAutoCraft
This whole deal cost more than my Alter-k-tion with Wilwoods and swaybar options.

If you were to add the expensive SPC arms, a fast ratio box or, heck, a Bogeson kit? Then damn! You don’t build a full tilt torsion bar system to save money, you do it to be traditional.

 

[HemiDenny]

I've always wondered if we offered a K, plated, ready to bolt in with all our parts if it would be less complicated to choose a vendor.

for many.....half the fun / adventure of your own build is asking questions, gathering intel and figuring out your own thing. I got no problem with that.

 

[Jim Lusk]

I've always wondered if we offered a K, plated, ready to bolt in with all our parts if it would be less complicated to choose a vendor.

It might help. As many people know I have been modifying '73-76 V8 k-members into Direct Connection k-members since the late 1980s. I used to pay $20 for a k-member, then it went to $50 at self serve wrecking yards. Now, they're all gone and individuals who have want $300, give or take. If you make one it would be an option, but at what price and which motor mounts?

 

[go-fish]

for many.....

For many, bias is very real. Guys who have dug in on the torsion bar system and never put together or driven a car with an HDK or RMS system will trash said systems just because they put their money into the torsion bar system.
You see this bias in all areas of hotrodding. People inherently think they’re smart and make good decisions. So, if someone else chooses the competition they think that person has made a bad decision.
Funny thing. Some people go way overboard trying to make the case for their decisions.

 

[BergmanAutoCraft]

I think guys are missing my point. We sell components and groups of components.
The attraction to an aftermarket system is it’s all new out of the box. I am certain nobody who buys either type of system has much of a mechanical understanding as to why they are buying it. My point, is we can package a redone factory k with all the components installed already. This way, our solution is sexier. However, believe it or not, it’s the B body guys who have purchased the bulk of our suspension and steering parts through the years.

 

[go-fish]

I think guys are missing my point. We sell components and groups of components.
The attraction to an aftermarket system is it’s all new out of the box. I am certain nobody who buys either type of system has much of a mechanical understanding as to why they are buying it. My point, is we can package a redone factory k with all the components installed already. This way, our solution is sexier. However, believe it or not, it’s the B body guys who have purchased the bulk of our suspension and steering parts through the years.

My comment was in no way directed at you. You are the one that actually is warranted a bias. It’s your business so trying to sell the world on your product is what you should be doing. I was referring to the gentleman that goes over the top every time one of these threads comes up. He even has his parts list copied ready to paste. Just so hungry for the next time he gets to say “Mustang II”.

 

[go-fish]

we can package a redone factory k with all the components installed already. This way, our solution is sexier.

This is pretty sexy. Would it be to this completion? How far and how customizable?

 

[72bluNblu]

My comment was in no way directed at you. You are the one that actually is warranted a bias. It’s your business so trying to sell the world on your product is what you should be doing. I was referring to the gentleman that goes over the top every time one of these threads comes up. He even has his parts list copied ready to paste. Just so hungry for the next time he gets to say “Mustang II”.

My comment was in no way directed at you. You are the one that actually is warranted a bias. It’s your business so trying to sell the world on your product is what you should be doing. I was referring to the gentleman that goes over the top every time one of these threads comes up. He even has his parts list copied ready to paste. Just so hungry for the next time he gets to say “Mustang II”.

I simply provide information. I've spent a lot of time researching the suspension on these cars and studying the suspension geometry, and I've spent a lot of time driving them too. I've gone through multiple suspension iterations on both of the Mopars I've had on the road, both my Challenger and my Duster have had multiple different components swapped out multiple times for different and better parts. I've run parts from CAP, Firm Feel, Hotchkis, Just Suspension, KYB, Moog, Mopar Performance, Dillinger Chassis, Energy Suspension, Magnumforce, QA1, SPC, Hellwig, Bilstein, AFCO, DoctorDiff, Flaming River, BergmanAutoCraft, Howe Racing and more I can't remember. Some of the manufacturers on that list I would never buy from again, others I will promote every time it comes up, and some I will buy certain parts from but not others. And that's because between my Challenger and my Duster I've driven over 100k year round, all weather, street driven miles. Some of those parts straight up didn't make it, some of them weren't up to snuff, and some of them have held up beautifully. And not all the most expensive parts were the best, the Hotchkis UCA's on my Challenger are a good example. Live and learn.

Since you have a car with a full RMS system and have since gone on to build a car with a torsion bar set up, I'd have to imagine that there was still something lacking about your RMS car? Afterall, if the RMS is the perfect solution, why waste your time doing something different?

Maybe I get a little enthusiastic, or even a little dramatic sometimes. But I was able to put together that list because I've spent over 14 years and over a 100k miles figuring out what works for street handling and what does not. I didn't just write a check to RMS and blindly think I had the best system ever because I spent the most money. I asked the guys that had done this sort of thing, I talked to the vendors that have been doing this the whole time, I read articles, I studied the geometry, and I picked my parts. And I've made some mistakes and I replaced them with better parts.

I'm anything but a traditionalist, I couldn't care less. That's why my '74 /6 Duster is a '71 340 Demon clone with '68 markers and a T56. I built up the torsion bar system on both my Challenger and my Duster because the suspension geometry is better when you make the right modifications. Because the best handling, fastest road course and autoX Mopars still run torsion bars. And it's not really about money for me either. If you count all the different parts I've used and then moved on from and sold I could have bought a couple of RMS's or HDK's. Hell I could buy one tomorrow if I thought they were better than what I've got, I'd write that check no problem. But I will also happily point out that you CAN build a torsion bar system up that will perform just as well or better for LESS money.

That latest list I posted exists because you refused to believe me until I literally created an itemized list showing you that you can build up a torsion bar suspension for LESS money than an HDK. The list speaks for itself, I'm not sure how you managed to spend so much on that torsion bar set up you've got. The Viper brakes are spendy but I managed to get a set for about $200 more than the Wilwoods on your RMS. And yeah, I know how a computer works, why wouldn't I have a file with all the best parts linked and ready to go? Most of them are on the list of parts I have on my own car, and yeah, I have a list to keep track.

If you don't like my advice you don't have to take it.

The attraction to an aftermarket system is it’s all new out of the box. I am certain nobody who buys either type of system has much of a mechanical understanding as to why they are buying it. My point, is we can package a redone factory k with all the components installed already. This way, our solution is sexier.

Nail on the head Peter. People buy the coil-over conversions because they're a nice, sexy package that takes care of everything. Shortest, easiest distance between their project that handles like a 50 year old barge to something workable.

You have a great collection of products, if you made it a single kit style product I'm sure you would sell them. I love all the stuff I've bought from you, and although I don't recommend everything you sell you definitely have some of the premier stuff out there.

 

[go-fish]

I simply provide information. I've spent a lot of time researching the suspension on these cars and studying the suspension geometry, and I've spent a lot of time driving them too. I've gone through multiple suspension iterations on both of the Mopars I've had on the road, both my Challenger and my Duster have had multiple different components swapped out multiple times for different and better parts. I've run parts from CAP, Firm Feel, Hotchkis, Just Suspension, KYB, Moog, Mopar Performance, Dillinger Chassis, Energy Suspension, Magnumforce, QA1, SPC, Hellwig, Bilstein, AFCO, DoctorDiff, Flaming River, BergmanAutoCraft, Howe Racing and more I can't remember. Some of the manufacturers on that list I would never buy from again, others I will promote every time it comes up, and some I will buy certain parts from but not others. And that's because between my Challenger and my Duster I've driven over 100k year round, all weather, street driven miles. Some of those parts straight up didn't make it, some of them weren't up to snuff, and some of them have held up beautifully. And not all the most expensive parts were the best, the Hotchkis UCA's on my Challenger are a good example. Live and learn.

Since you have a car with a full RMS system and have since gone on to build a car with a torsion bar set up, I'd have to imagine that there was still something lacking about your RMS car? Afterall, if the RMS is the perfect solution, why waste your time doing something different?

Maybe I get a little enthusiastic, or even a little dramatic sometimes. But I was able to put together that list because I've spent over 14 years and over a 100k miles figuring out what works for street handling and what does not. I didn't just write a check to RMS and blindly think I had the best system ever because I spent the most money. I asked the guys that had done this sort of thing, I talked to the vendors that have been doing this the whole time, I read articles, I studied the geometry, and I picked my parts. And I've made some mistakes and I replaced them with better parts.

I'm anything but a traditionalist, I couldn't care less. That's why my '74 /6 Duster is a '71 340 Demon clone with '68 markers and a T56. I built up the torsion bar system on both my Challenger and my Duster because the suspension geometry is better when you make the right modifications. Because the best handling, fastest road course and autoX Mopars still run torsion bars. And it's not really about money for me either. If you count all the different parts I've used and then moved on from and sold I could have bought a couple of RMS's or HDK's. Hell I could buy one tomorrow if I thought they were better than what I've got, I'd write that check no problem. But I will also happily point out that you CAN build a torsion bar system up that will perform just as well or better for LESS money.

That latest list I posted exists because you refused to believe me until I literally created an itemized list showing you that you can build up a torsion bar suspension for LESS money than an HDK. The list speaks for itself, I'm not sure how you managed to spend so much on that torsion bar set up you've got. The Viper brakes are spendy but I managed to get a set for about $200 more than the Wilwoods on your RMS. And yeah, I know how a computer works, why wouldn't I have a file with all the best parts linked and ready to go? Most of them are on the list of parts I have on my own car, and yeah, I have a list to keep track.

If you don't like my advice you don't have to take it.



Nail on the head Peter. People buy the coil-over conversions because they're a nice, sexy package that takes care of everything. Shortest, easiest distance between their project that handles like a 50 year old barge to something workable.

You have a great collection of products, if you made it a single kit style product I'm sure you would sell them. I love all the stuff I've bought from you, and although I don't recommend everything you sell you definitely have some of the premier stuff out there.

Neat!

 

[abodyjoe]

I've always wondered if we offered a K, plated, ready to bolt in with all our parts if it would be less complicated to choose a vendor.

i think it would be a good idea. then people wouldn't have to piece things together. takes any guess work out of it. one stop shop...may be sticker shock for some though..

 

[abodyjoe]

Total: $3,879.13

(manual to manual)
Savings of $160.87 vs AlterK w/manual steering (and no sway bar on that AlterK, so it would be more if you add it)



Total: $4,429.13 (power steering, pump and lines not included just like the RMS)
Savings of $310.87 vs AlterK with power rack

DAMN! haven't priced everything out in a long time.. i didn't realize they were that close in price these days.. for a difference in price of under $500 i'm going alter-k if doing it again.

 

[BergmanAutoCraft]

I simply provide information. I've spent a lot of time researching the suspension on these cars and studying the suspension geometry, and I've spent a lot of time driving them too. I've gone through multiple suspension iterations on both of the Mopars I've had on the road, both my Challenger and my Duster have had multiple different components swapped out multiple times for different and better parts. I've run parts from CAP, Firm Feel, Hotchkis, Just Suspension, KYB, Moog, Mopar Performance, Dillinger Chassis, Energy Suspension, Magnumforce, QA1, SPC, Hellwig, Bilstein, AFCO, DoctorDiff, Flaming River, BergmanAutoCraft, Howe Racing and more I can't remember. Some of the manufacturers on that list I would never buy from again, others I will promote every time it comes up, and some I will buy certain parts from but not others. And that's because between my Challenger and my Duster I've driven over 100k year round, all weather, street driven miles. Some of those parts straight up didn't make it, some of them weren't up to snuff, and some of them have held up beautifully. And not all the most expensive parts were the best, the Hotchkis UCA's on my Challenger are a good example. Live and learn.

Since you have a car with a full RMS system and have since gone on to build a car with a torsion bar set up, I'd have to imagine that there was still something lacking about your RMS car? Afterall, if the RMS is the perfect solution, why waste your time doing something different?

Maybe I get a little enthusiastic, or even a little dramatic sometimes. But I was able to put together that list because I've spent over 14 years and over a 100k miles figuring out what works for street handling and what does not. I didn't just write a check to RMS and blindly think I had the best system ever because I spent the most money. I asked the guys that had done this sort of thing, I talked to the vendors that have been doing this the whole time, I read articles, I studied the geometry, and I picked my parts. And I've made some mistakes and I replaced them with better parts.

I'm anything but a traditionalist, I couldn't care less. That's why my '74 /6 Duster is a '71 340 Demon clone with '68 markers and a T56. I built up the torsion bar system on both my Challenger and my Duster because the suspension geometry is better when you make the right modifications. Because the best handling, fastest road course and autoX Mopars still run torsion bars. And it's not really about money for me either. If you count all the different parts I've used and then moved on from and sold I could have bought a couple of RMS's or HDK's. Hell I could buy one tomorrow if I thought they were better than what I've got, I'd write that check no problem. But I will also happily point out that you CAN build a torsion bar system up that will perform just as well or better for LESS money.

That latest list I posted exists because you refused to believe me until I literally created an itemized list showing you that you can build up a torsion bar suspension for LESS money than an HDK. The list speaks for itself, I'm not sure how you managed to spend so much on that torsion bar set up you've got. The Viper brakes are spendy but I managed to get a set for about $200 more than the Wilwoods on your RMS. And yeah, I know how a computer works, why wouldn't I have a file with all the best parts linked and ready to go? Most of them are on the list of parts I have on my own car, and yeah, I have a list to keep track.

If you don't like my advice you don't have to take it.



Nail on the head Peter. People buy the coil-over conversions because they're a nice, sexy package that takes care of everything. Shortest, easiest distance between their project that handles like a 50 year old barge to something workable.

You have a great collection of products, if you made it a single kit style product I'm sure you would sell them. I love all the stuff I've bought from you, and although I don't recommend everything you sell you definitely have some of the premier stuff out there.

I simply provide information. I've spent a lot of time researching the suspension on these cars and studying the suspension geometry, and I've spent a lot of time driving them too. I've gone through multiple suspension iterations on both of the Mopars I've had on the road, both my Challenger and my Duster have had multiple different components swapped out multiple times for different and better parts. I've run parts from CAP, Firm Feel, Hotchkis, Just Suspension, KYB, Moog, Mopar Performance, Dillinger Chassis, Energy Suspension, Magnumforce, QA1, SPC, Hellwig, Bilstein, AFCO, DoctorDiff, Flaming River, BergmanAutoCraft, Howe Racing and more I can't remember. Some of the manufacturers on that list I would never buy from again, others I will promote every time it comes up, and some I will buy certain parts from but not others. And that's because between my Challenger and my Duster I've driven over 100k year round, all weather, street driven miles. Some of those parts straight up didn't make it, some of them weren't up to snuff, and some of them have held up beautifully. And not all the most expensive parts were the best, the Hotchkis UCA's on my Challenger are a good example. Live and learn.

Since you have a car with a full RMS system and have since gone on to build a car with a torsion bar set up, I'd have to imagine that there was still something lacking about your RMS car? Afterall, if the RMS is the perfect solution, why waste your time doing something different?

Maybe I get a little enthusiastic, or even a little dramatic sometimes. But I was able to put together that list because I've spent over 14 years and over a 100k miles figuring out what works for street handling and what does not. I didn't just write a check to RMS and blindly think I had the best system ever because I spent the most money. I asked the guys that had done this sort of thing, I talked to the vendors that have been doing this the whole time, I read articles, I studied the geometry, and I picked my parts. And I've made some mistakes and I replaced them with better parts.

I'm anything but a traditionalist, I couldn't care less. That's why my '74 /6 Duster is a '71 340 Demon clone with '68 markers and a T56. I built up the torsion bar system on both my Challenger and my Duster because the suspension geometry is better when you make the right modifications. Because the best handling, fastest road course and autoX Mopars still run torsion bars. And it's not really about money for me either. If you count all the different parts I've used and then moved on from and sold I could have bought a couple of RMS's or HDK's. Hell I could buy one tomorrow if I thought they were better than what I've got, I'd write that check no problem. But I will also happily point out that you CAN build a torsion bar system up that will perform just as well or better for LESS money.

That latest list I posted exists because you refused to believe me until I literally created an itemized list showing you that you can build up a torsion bar suspension for LESS money than an HDK. The list speaks for itself, I'm not sure how you managed to spend so much on that torsion bar set up you've got. The Viper brakes are spendy but I managed to get a set for about $200 more than the Wilwoods on your RMS. And yeah, I know how a computer works, why wouldn't I have a file with all the best parts linked and ready to go? Most of them are on the list of parts I have on my own car, and yeah, I have a list to keep track.

If you don't like my advice you don't have to take it.



Nail on the head Peter. People buy the coil-over conversions because they're a nice, sexy package that takes care of everything. Shortest, easiest distance between their project that handles like a 50 year old barge to something workable.

You have a great collection of products, if you made it a single kit style product I'm sure you would sell them. I love all the stuff I've bought from you, and although I don't recommend everything you sell you definitely have some of the premier stuff out there.

We do have a complete kit… When it comes to our direct competition (t bar style), we have them beat all day long. The difference is advertising $$.
BAC MOPAR FRONT SUSPENSION KIT - Bergman Auto Craft

 

[abodyjoe]

The difference is advertising $$.

i've bought from you and will continue to do so. you have been fair and answered my questions. i do notice that your replies on forums and facebook could be a little better though.. you usually seem very short with things. if you were a little more sociable? in some replies i think you would have your name out there a little more.. not everyone understand north east people.. yes i know you are no longer in ny..

 

[BergmanAutoCraft]

i've bought from you and will continue to do so. you have been fair and answered my questions. i do notice that your replies on forums and facebook could be a little better though.. you usually seem very short with things. if you were a little more sociable? in some replies i think you would have your name out there a little more.. not everyone understand north east people.. yes i know you are no longer in ny..

That’s a very good assessment. I’m sarcastic by nature, probably driven by the pressure of the northeast. Our relocation has taken months and continues as we build a shop from scratch. It’s been very stressful as is evident from many of my replies. The other interesting thing these days, is everything is via online. Very rarely does anyone call.
Come 2023, I’m planning to vend at Carlisle and other venues that make sense.

 

[Super-Cuda]

It would certainly make you a one stop shop!

I really think it would help some folks. I mean, I posted a list that has literally everything anyone needs to fully upgrade the torsion bar suspension and it's "too complicated". The only thing in the entire list that doesn't bolt on are the poly LCA bushings, and you could just leave those out and run the QA1 LCA's as delivered with their already installed rubber bushings and that entire list is direct bolt on. It's no different than an itemized list for a QA1, RMS or HDK, it just isn't assembled. And you can literally click on the links I posted and order all the necessary parts straight from your computer without even changing out of your jammies. Sub in Hotchkis or Bilstein shocks and it all can come from 3 vendors.

Or just order your suspension kit! BAC MOPAR FRONT SUSPENSION KIT - Bergman Auto Craft . I think think the Gen II SPC's are bit of overkill for most especially at their price point. Swap those out with the Gen I's and add the QA1 LCA's and that kit is a full bolt on operation already, if you added the K it would look just like any of the other packages out there.

So yeah, the visual of seeing everything together is pretty powerful. Even if you would still have to touch every single part in the assembly for final torques and final alignment, which apparently no one thinks about. Just because the QA1, RMS or HDK comes assembled doesn't mean you just slap it on and go.

.

I simply provide information. I've spent a lot of time researching the suspension on these cars and studying the suspension geometry, and I've spent a lot of time driving them too. I've gone through multiple suspension iterations on both of the Mopars I've had on the road, both my Challenger and my Duster have had multiple different components swapped out multiple times for different and better parts. I've run parts from CAP, Firm Feel, Hotchkis, Just Suspension, KYB, Moog, Mopar Performance, Dillinger Chassis, Energy Suspension, Magnumforce, QA1, SPC, Hellwig, Bilstein, AFCO, DoctorDiff, Flaming River, BergmanAutoCraft, Howe Racing and more I can't remember. Some of the manufacturers on that list I would never buy from again, others I will promote every time it comes up, and some I will buy certain parts from but not others. And that's because between my Challenger and my Duster I've driven over 100k year round, all weather, street driven miles. Some of those parts straight up didn't make it, some of them weren't up to snuff, and some of them have held up beautifully. And not all the most expensive parts were the best, the Hotchkis UCA's on my Challenger are a good example. Live and learn.

Since you have a car with a full RMS system and have since gone on to build a car with a torsion bar set up, I'd have to imagine that there was still something lacking about your RMS car? Afterall, if the RMS is the perfect solution, why waste your time doing something different?

Maybe I get a little enthusiastic, or even a little dramatic sometimes. But I was able to put together that list because I've spent over 14 years and over a 100k miles figuring out what works for street handling and what does not. I didn't just write a check to RMS and blindly think I had the best system ever because I spent the most money. I asked the guys that had done this sort of thing, I talked to the vendors that have been doing this the whole time, I read articles, I studied the geometry, and I picked my parts. And I've made some mistakes and I replaced them with better parts.

I'm anything but a traditionalist, I couldn't care less. That's why my '74 /6 Duster is a '71 340 Demon clone with '68 markers and a T56. I built up the torsion bar system on both my Challenger and my Duster because the suspension geometry is better when you make the right modifications. Because the best handling, fastest road course and autoX Mopars still run torsion bars. And it's not really about money for me either. If you count all the different parts I've used and then moved on from and sold I could have bought a couple of RMS's or HDK's. Hell I could buy one tomorrow if I thought they were better than what I've got, I'd write that check no problem. But I will also happily point out that you CAN build a torsion bar system up that will perform just as well or better for LESS money.

That latest list I posted exists because you refused to believe me until I literally created an itemized list showing you that you can build up a torsion bar suspension for LESS money than an HDK. The list speaks for itself, I'm not sure how you managed to spend so much on that torsion bar set up you've got. The Viper brakes are spendy but I managed to get a set for about $200 more than the Wilwoods on your RMS. And yeah, I know how a computer works, why wouldn't I have a file with all the best parts linked and ready to go? Most of them are on the list of parts I have on my own car, and yeah, I have a list to keep track.

If you don't like my advice you don't have to take it.



Nail on the head Peter. People buy the coil-over conversions because they're a nice, sexy package that takes care of everything. Shortest, easiest distance between their project that handles like a 50 year old barge to something workable.

You have a great collection of products, if you made it a single kit style product I'm sure you would sell them. I love all the stuff I've bought from you, and although I don't recommend everything you sell you definitely have some of the premier stuff out there.

72 BluNblu,

Just speaking for myself but I have tremendous respect for your knowledge and experience and believe me I've read everything you ,The gentleman from Bergman, HemiDenny and others have contributed to this topic .
As was stated, I am one of the builders who was looking for a complete, proven package and was definitely swayed by great advertizing, product presentation with pictures and first and foremost, comments by other users on service and actual performance of the suspension systems I was interested in. I didn't know about HDK when I was looking as I wasn't a member of this site at that time. The system being offered by HDK is also the complete package and I would have definitely had a hard time picking between RMS and HDK. To Bergman, I can only say I'm very impressed by your engagement here with the members and your potential customers. Cudos to you and your team!!

Note to other suppliers: This is how you impress and get customers!!

Finally BluNblu, keep posting your valuable information . Even though we may see differently on our solutions, that in no way diminishes my interest in what you or other members/suppliers on here have to say.

After all as Denny says " This is half of the fun of playing with old Mopars"

Cheers Guys and Gals!!

 

[go-fish]

Since you have a car with a full RMS system and have since gone on to build a car with a torsion bar set up, I'd have to imagine that there was still something lacking about your RMS car? Afterall, if the RMS is the perfect solution, why waste your time doing something different?

You have either not read my posts on this or you have very poor reading comprehension. In this very thread I have laid out when I think a coilover system is warranted and when a torsion bar is.

The reason I am building my Valiant with the torsion bars is simply about traditions. I am building a Green/Red Brick kinda deal. Simply following a plan for a certain car. Not necessarily building a restomod.



I’ll state it again. You can have more into a torsion bar system if you are building full tilt (ie. Viper brakes, Borgeson box, Delrin, welding, sand blasting, gusset kit, V2 SPC arms …). Sure, an industrious guy can look for used stuff, wait for sales, get discounts but when it comes to retail and buying all the best of the best parts then you spend a bit more on torsion bar systems.

 

[abodyjoe]

That’s a very good assessment. I’m sarcastic by nature, probably driven by the pressure of the northeast. Our relocation has taken months and continues as we build a shop from scratch. It’s been very stressful as is evident from many of my replies. The other interesting thing these days, is everything is via online. Very rarely does anyone call.
Come 2023, I’m planning to vend at Carlisle and other venues that make sense.

****, i never make a big purchase without calling first. not sure how people do that ****. i want to know who i'm buying from.

 

[go-fish]

****, i never make a big purchase without calling first. not sure how people do that ****. i want to know who i'm buying from.

I have dealt with Peter over the phone and had good conversations with him. He’s great to talk to and learn from. I suggest giving him a call too.

 

[abodyjoe]

I have dealt with Peter over the phone and had good conversations with him. He’s great to talk to and learn from. I suggest giving him a call too.

like i said ive ordered from him before and will again. i did it over the phone.

 

[DionR]

I've never had the funds to just buy a full kit, so the option of slowly upgrading has been my preferred method. And since I don't see any really advantages to a coil over conversion, it is a win-win in my book. Not sure how it could be more expensive looking at the list Blu posted, but even if it is at least I can spread the costs over time and end up in pretty much the same place.

Something for the OP to remember is that that (as far as I know) looks like HDK is the only one of the aftermarket kits that include options for slant 6 motor mounts. At least I don't think so, I only looked back to see if Denny said so so maybe the Alter-K setup does as well? If not, you will need to be ready to "roll your own". Something to think about.

Last comment on the aftermarket kits - I'm still not comfortable with the lower control arm mount. If I were to make the switch, I would look at a HDK since (IMO) he takes into account the how the coil over loads the chassis but it still has a single mount resisting any rearward loads the lower control arm receives from pot holes or anything else the tire contacts. The OEM MII suspension had a strut to resist those loads with a narrow LCA. The aftermarket kits I have seen replace that setup with a wider LCA and a bigger mount (pretty sure they used to be pretty flimsy), but it still feels like it is at a disadvantage. Might be that they have run the numbers and it isn't any less stiff than the OEM setup was, but it makes me wonder.

 

[Spun Bearing]

I am not the least bit interested in torsion bar vs. coil over systems. I started following questions here to determine if there was a viable solution to getting rid of the torsion bars and steering box which are in the way when swapping in a Gen II Hemi for instance.

If anyone knows a good solution to keeping those items in place and making them function with the Hemi on board then please speak now; otherwise say no more.

I would like to see comments from actual owners (not poseurs) of RMS, HDK and Gerst equipped vehicles regarding the in-use likes and dislikes of these individual products. Others are not relevant.

 

[DionR]

I am not the least bit interested in torsion bar vs. coil over systems. I started following questions here to determine if there was a viable solution to getting rid of the torsion bars and steering box which are in the way when swapping in a Gen II Hemi for instance.

If anyone knows a good solution to keeping those items in place and making them function with the Hemi on board then please speak now; otherwise say no more.

I would like to see comments from actual owners (not poseurs) of RMS, HDK and Gerst equipped vehicles regarding the in-use likes and dislikes of these individual products. Others are not relevant.

Sounds like you need to start your own thread then? Kind of sounds like you are somewhat frustrated with how this thread has progress, and yet you didn't start it. So it seems like shutting it down (e.g. "otherwise say no more") isn't for you to say.

Just a suggestion...

 

[Kern Dog]

That’s a very good assessment. I’m sarcastic by nature, probably driven by the pressure of the northeast. Our relocation has taken months and continues as we build a shop from scratch. It’s been very stressful as is evident from many of my replies. The other interesting thing these days, is everything is via online. Very rarely does anyone call.
Come 2023, I’m planning to vend at Carlisle and other venues that make sense.

I prefer to talk with vendors. I usually only order online when it is after business hours.