Kickdown issue

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Dodge truck 73 8-318 & 360 B100, B200 & B300
 
It’s natural stopping point. It will not go any farther back
Stopping point on the transmission? On the linkage? On the carburetor? If the lever on the transmission is all the way back, then it's time to remove the pan and see if the valve body is adjusted correctly.
 
Stopping point on the transmission? On the linkage? On the carburetor? If the lever on the transmission is all the way back, then it's time to remove the pan and see if the valve body is adjusted correctly.
Stopping point on the transmission
So that HAS the part throttle kickdown. Then something is afoot.
I only used the case. The guts were from a big block 727 of unknown own year
 
So then it may not have ptk. Do u remember when u we’re pushing the kd to the rear was there no spring pressure till u got about 1/3rd of the way back then there was resistance the rest of the way?
 
So then it may not have ptk. Do u remember when u we’re pushing the kd to the rear was there no spring pressure till u got about 1/3rd of the way back then there was resistance the rest of the way?
It’s hard to say for sure it feels like there is resistance all through the travel of the lever
 
Found a pic of the case before I painted it.

View attachment 1716260890

PK3640414 4340 0525
I see part of your problem-the kickdown lever that you have on the trans is for the 1 pc rod system. That is longer than the one you need. So in reality the ratio is off by quite a bit. The short levers are for the 3 pc bellcrank system and the long levers, like yours is for the 1 pc rod system. You have to have a short lever! And put the rear hook on your pretty purple return spring in the U on the end of your throttle cable.
 
I see part of your problem-the kickdown lever that you have on the trans is for the 1 pc rod system. That is longer than the one you need. So in reality the ratio is off by quite a bit. The short levers are for the 3 pc bellcrank system and the long levers, like yours is for the 1 pc rod system. You have to have a short lever! And put the rear hook on your pretty purple return spring in the U on the end of your throttle cable.
Do you have a photo of the two different levers? Im sure swapped out that lever when I mated the trans to the block and connected the linkage initially when it was on the engine cart because I couldn’t make it work but I will take another look to verify.
 
I'll get out tomorrow and find a couple and try to get a picture posted unless someone beats me to it.
 
Is the purple spring going thru a hole in the shaft or going "around" the shaft? I'm trying to move that kickdown so it's at 90* to throttle stud.
 
Is the purple spring going thru a hole in the shaft or going "around" the shaft? I'm trying to move that kickdown so it's at 90* to throttle stud.
there are two grooves in that throttle stud where the springs are hooked around the stud. I assumed one for each of the springs but I'm being told to move the purple spring and hook it between the throttle cable clevice.
 
Around the clevice would work as well. Just trying to get kickdown "straighter". Looks great btw! :thumbsup:
there are two grooves in that throttle stud where the springs are hooked around the stud. I assumed one for each of the springs but I'm being told to move the purple spring and hook it between the throttle cable clevice.
 
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OP - how many rods in your kickdown system?

The thing that really has me puzzled is that everyone is giving you solutions to make sure that the lever on the trans is all the way back at WOT, but you are already achieving that, right? I agree with you - the issue isn't in the linkage. If the length of the trans lever was the issue you wouldn't be pushing it all the way open. You are judging the lever being all the way back with the linkage disconnected, right?
 
OP - how many rods in your kickdown system?

The thing that really has me puzzled is that everyone is giving you solutions to make sure that the lever on the trans is all the way back at WOT, but you are already achieving that, right? I agree with you - the issue isn't in the linkage. If the length of the trans lever was the issue you wouldn't be pushing it all the way open. You are judging the lever being all the way back with the linkage disconnected, right?
3 rod linkage. Yep. I checked the lever with the linkage disconnected and connected
 
I'm not sure if it was rebuilt as a manual valve body. In any case, I have done my due diligence with the KD linkage adjustments so it's going to the shop to have them figure out why it isn't working. I was just curious if anyone has experienced this before.

The transmission was from a big block but was rebuilt into my small block casing. Unsure of the year of the 727.
We used to call the kick down, the passing gear. I never like to use it, but it did work. Reason was. there was a pause before the dropped gear change, so I would always manually, shift into 2nd or 1st as needed, for a more positive shift. I don't remember why, but I installed a nut and bolt on the slide on the other side of the slide stop, for a better down shift. If I remember correctly, about one inch ahead of the throttle linkage. It also sets the upshift. I could also be set to be in third gear around 20 up to 30-40.
 
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