lifter galley crossover tube

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Thanks to everyone that participating in this thread.
some may have lost interest in the first paragraph, and that is ok.
How ever i live for these kind of threads!
A little late on this thread but have a few question, that have been explain.........but i still don't get fully. First i have never heard about this 70* oiling, and it make sence but how does the cross drilling actually look. and why it is a BAD idea in most cases.
Explain more as to when it is a good idea and why.
2nt i would have been the first to jump on the theory that oil will always travel to the lower pressure. although i still believe this.(head porting theory) The anlage of the defrost/ heater duct sure got me thinking.

I think this kind of talk don't come out, or never get the discussion that we have had the privilege to have this time., Because 95 percent of us have never revved are engs past 7000 (on purpose) and probably only 1% have purposely built and eng to turn 8000+rpm.

When i built my 408 stroker i told my machinist that i wanted a bottom end that would hold up to 8000 rpm. Which he provide for me, but I built. From what my machinist suggested and what Guitar Jones provide, i felt i had a bulletproof bottom end. I did every thing that he suggested EXC. the crossover tube. The way i tried it on my test motor, i couldn't get the intake on. in the end i put on some nice RHS head and a cam that runs out of breath at 5800 rpm.(because that work with all the other part in my car.)

Any way some day/year/century, these mod may become Very important.


Cross drilling isn't bad, it's just usually not needed. If the crank is cross drilled correctly, if you keep the RPM below about 7000 RPM. I can't remember if it was Scat or Eagle but for a while even the Chevy cranks were coming cross drilled. I let them go if they weren't winding it up. If they were, I plugged the hole with a set screw and turned the journals .010 under or if it was a real hot rod, I'd turn the small blocks to small journal and the big blocks I'd turn to SBC large journal.

If the cross drill hits the Rod feed at the surface of the crank, cross drill is in the best spot it can be. Some of the real bad bearing eaters had the cross drill hit the Rod feed hole in the center of the Rod journal. Those would actually pump oil away from the rods, especially over about 6500.

You would be correct about very few guys turning 8000 or more. Especially if you want to make power up there. Like I said, it took me a tunnel ram, on square ported W-2 heads with 2 flying toilets to do it. And that was with a 286/298 roller on 340 inches. More displacement and it would have been almost impossible. Even with W-5 heads. That's why you don't hear about oil timing much and at some time in the 1990's or early 2000's Chrysler started offering blocks with the oil timing corrected. They had to, or the Pro Stock Truck guys would have been screwed.

BRING BACK PRO STOCK TRUCK!!!!!

I'd have to go back and read the heater duct analogy again because I can't think of any time high pressure doesn't go to low pressure. That's how your vacuum cleaner, carb and even your engine operates. On pressure differential. The lower the pressure in the cylinder, the better the cylinder fill.
 
That's the pan I run on my DD. I love that pan. It has its PITA issues but it's still the best pan for power and durability with a stock K member.

My pan uses the static pick up but the swinging one is just one more way to keep the pick up covered on deceleration. If you are into testing, I'd bet you can run a quart or two lower with the swinging pickup and not uncover it.

Cool stuff. I love old school that hasn't been improved on in 40 years.

If you ask me oil pans have gone backwards.
The old ones are way better.
We have better rods, cranks, pistons, heads,blocks, but newer pans are not as good anymore. IMHO.
 
Hell, you did most of the work for me!! THANK YOU.

Now, if you can, grab a SBM and a SBC block and show where the oil feed hole in the block is.

You will note that at ~70 degrees past TDC, the oil hole in the block and the oil hole in the crank will be lined up on the Chevy. On the Chrysler, the oil feed hole in the crank will be PAST the oil feed hole block. That means that full pressure, full flow oil out to the rods was way too early.

If you can post some pictures it's pretty obvious what is wrong.

And, it's not really and issue until you wind it up or throw a big load of nitrous or boost on it. Then it will rear its ugly head sooner.

The picture of the big block above is pretty close to what I ended up with. The first system was all in the pan. The second system was external like the one above except I had bulkhead fittings in the pan so I could run lines to the bottom of the caps. That, and cross drilling corrects the oil timing.

Hello YellowRose. I have a question for you. If we agree that the Chevy crank and the Mopar crank are drilled the same and that the difference in timing is the location of the oil hole in the block,and assuming the difference in timing is 15-18 degrees as you said earlier, could the timing not be corrected right in the bearing saddle in the block.
Reason I ask this is I have attached a picture of my "X" block number 1 main bearing saddle with the passage to the driver side blocked off.
Notice in the centre of the saddle there is a counter bore. I see many Chrysler small blocks on this forum that have this counterbore.
My 1969 340 block(not the x block) does not have this counterbore.
One of the modifications that is demonstrated on Guitar Jones oil thread and the Sanborn thread on Mopar chat, is to slot the oil holes in the upper bearing halves to 1/2 inch long.
If this mod were done to the bearings and installed in a block with this counterbore, would this not move the oil timing to the center of the bearing saddle and correct the oil timing?
Although the oil is still coming to the bearing saddle at the 11:00 position, would it not transfer under the bearing shell to the centre of the bearing before exiting to the crankshaft.
At the very least it would have full flow at the 12:00 position just like a Chevy.
I recall many years ago that Mopar performance used to sell bearings with this slot already in them.

image.png
 
Hello YellowRose. I have a question for you. If we agree that the Chevy crank and the Mopar crank are drilled the same and that the difference in timing is the location of the oil hole in the block,and assuming the difference in timing is 15-18 degrees as you said earlier, could the timing not be corrected right in the bearing saddle in the block.
Reason I ask this is I have attached a picture of my "X" block number 1 main bearing saddle with the passage to the driver side blocked off.
Notice in the centre of the saddle there is a counter bore. I see many Chrysler small blocks on this forum that have this counterbore.
My 1969 340 block(not the x block) does not have this counterbore.
One of the modifications that is demonstrated on Guitar Jones oil thread and the Sanborn thread on Mopar chat, is to slot the oil holes in the upper bearing halves to 1/2 inch long.
If this mod were done to the bearings and installed in a block with this counterbore, would this not move the oil timing to the center of the bearing saddle and correct the oil timing?
Although the oil is still coming to the bearing saddle at the 11:00 position, would it not transfer under the bearing shell to the centre of the bearing before exiting to the crankshaft.
At the very least it would have full flow at the 12:00 position just like a Chevy.
I recall many years ago that Mopar performance used to sell bearings with this slot already in them.

View attachment 1715087351


That's the same way my X block looks too.

I tried the slot thing. It helped a bit, but even with the slot, you still need the two holes lined up at the right time. Theoretically, the half groove in the upper bearing would do it. Add a full groove and it would not be an issue. The half and full groove send oil out to the bearings almost as soon as the hole in the crank get to the groove (half groove) and all the time with the full groove.

Some how, once engine speed gets up past ~ 7800 the timing becomes a real issue. When I first started and I want making power up that high it never had an issue with higher RPM. Evidently, specific output makes a difference. Once I got near 2 hp/CID at 8000 plus it started knocking rods out on the second dyno pull. On the track if I made it to third I was having a good day.

I know some of the new stuff has grooves behind the bearing and extra holes, but to be perfectly honest I've never really researched why they did it. All the stuff I was building had priority main oiling with the timing at about 70 degrees. Even the ford stuff was corrected.
 
Well.........I must of forgot to hit send this morning when i posted this
Thank YR and it was post 90. don't have time to re read it, myself at this moment.
Thanks
Post 90 was the Defrost analogy.
 
That's the same way my X block looks too.

I tried the slot thing. It helped a bit, but even with the slot, you still need the two holes lined up at the right time. Theoretically, the half groove in the upper bearing would do it. Add a full groove and it would not be an issue. The half and full groove send oil out to the bearings almost as soon as the hole in the crank get to the groove (half groove) and all the time with the full groove.

Some how, once engine speed gets up past ~ 7800 the timing becomes a real issue. When I first started and I want making power up that high it never had an issue with higher RPM. Evidently, specific output makes a difference. Once I got near 2 hp/CID at 8000 plus it started knocking rods out on the second dyno pull. On the track if I made it to third I was having a good day.

I know some of the new stuff has grooves behind the bearing and extra holes, but to be perfectly honest I've never really researched why they did it. All the stuff I was building had priority main oiling with the timing at about 70 degrees. Even the ford stuff was corrected.

Had these in my photo library .

image.png


image.png
 
I know this is six months later from the last post but anybody still sell those bearings?
 
I found a couple sets of micro babbitt on ebay that were NOS. not exactly but wide full groove
you can open up the holes your self
 
I bought two sets of the "H" series Mahle Clevite to get the full groove. The groove on these newer bearings are not as wide as in the past but, depending on who you talk to a narrower groove is better. I opened the oiling holes myself to improve the flow.
As far as I know , no one offers a bearing with the opened up oil hole. My bearing holes were enlarged with an edm machine.&
 
I bought two sets of the "H" series Mahle Clevite to get the full groove. The groove on these newer bearings are not as wide as in the past but, depending on who you talk to a narrower groove is better. I opened the oiling holes myself to improve the flow.
As far as I know , no one offers a bearing with the opened up oil hole. My bearing holes were enlarged with an edm machine.&


Have you tried the groove in the main saddle and drilling the bearings?

Also what is the link to the block side cooling?
 
Some great exploration of ideas and methods in this thread!
Since my 340 is opened up at the moment I’ll add these photos for reference if anyone is interested. I am told that this is work from Atherton’s shop and it does appear to be so.
9326068E-DBEB-40A2-9872-52C3384929BF.jpeg
D60D42AE-7331-4455-8A1C-B67931E2F103.jpeg
 
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the restriction you put in an oil line when you use a common 90 degree fitting in the system.

Back when I first started running 351C's on dirt it was common practice to run 100#'s of oil pressure to keep the crank alive. So we bought a Ford Motorsport 100# relief spring.

Then we started blowing off the block mounted remote oil pressure adaptor... after a couple tries I called Bud Moore Engineering and he made one for me out of billet aluminum. The others were die cast. Blew that one off the block in 5 seconds.

While were having this problem my neighbor comes over to see what the hell we were yelling about. He was an engineer for machine tool giant Kearney and Trecker. He found the problem in ten seconds... we used a forged -10 90 degree ftting on the adaptor. he told us the pressure increases about ten fold with that 90... we needed a gentle curved fitting (I forget what they call them).

Put one one and the problem was fixed. If you are using any 90 degree fitiings in your oiling system you are creating problems with oil delivery.

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" It's the fact that engineers KNEW decades ago that the rods need maximum oil flow at about 70~ ATDC. It moves a bit due to rod ratio but that's pretty much the standard. Every Chevy ever made has the oil timing at 70 degrees after TDC. They will oil well past useable RPM with less pressure and volume than a Chrysler. Or a ford."

I'm not saying you're wrong...you could be right....but here are my thoughts:

1) 70 degrees is a fact? According to who? I'd have to see some good evidence before I accepted that as fact.

2) We fire the ignition well in ADVANCE of when we want the combustion to take place. We do that because we recognize that nothing happens instantly...there are the usual delays. So if we want the combustion force to start at 1 ATDC we trigger the ignition at 34 degrees BTDC. So...if we want maximum oil at 70 degrees ATDC, it makes perfect sense to begin applying it a little ahead of time in order to support the development of the best oil wedge, etc. And don't forget that oil pressure doesn't cease to exist the instant the oil passages misalign...there is still a pump pushing oil through the bearing gap.
 
" It's the fact that engineers KNEW decades ago that the rods need maximum oil flow at about 70~ ATDC. It moves a bit due to rod ratio but that's pretty much the standard. Every Chevy ever made has the oil timing at 70 degrees after TDC. They will oil well past useable RPM with less pressure and volume than a Chrysler. Or a ford."

I'm not saying you're wrong...you could be right....but here are my thoughts:

1) 70 degrees is a fact? According to who? I'd have to see some good evidence before I accepted that as fact.

2) We fire the ignition well in ADVANCE of when we want the combustion to take place. We do that because we recognize that nothing happens instantly...there are the usual delays. So if we want the combustion force to start at 1 ATDC we trigger the ignition at 34 degrees BTDC. So...if we want maximum oil at 70 degrees ATDC, it makes perfect sense to begin applying it a little ahead of time in order to support the development of the best oil wedge, etc. And don't forget that oil pressure doesn't cease to exist the instant the oil passages misalign...there is still a pump pushing oil through the bearing gap.


The ABOUT 70 degrees ATDC was published in some book(s) (probably text books) in the early 20th century. I suppose if one was of the mind you could search the government archives and find the research on it.

Like the principles of carburation which were well determined before the 1920’s, such was the about 70 degrees ATDC.

Look at a small block chevy. Even without priority main oiling, they can use less volume and pressure and will oil the rods at much higher RPM than the Chrysler will. And look at how it oils?

Chrysler KNEW about this...which is why they recommend full groove bearings for higher RPM operation...they KNEW that they had to get more oil to the rods so they just got it there full time. It helps, but has its limits. You don’t need a full groove bearing in a chevy? What’s the difference?

Walter P. either came from Pontiac or Buick...I forget which. That’s why the blocks and oiling systems are so similar as to be the same.

Back then, RPM about 6000 was unheard of in mass surface transportation. So, if the engineers fudged on the rule a bit to make machining and production quicker (therefore saving big bucks) they did it. There was literally zero chance of a rod oiling issue at those RPM.

I learned all this in about 1986-1986. I bought a complete W2 engine from a guy who was a Modified Eliminator guy (the best Eliminator NHRA ever had...those were my kind of guys who ran Modified) and quickly grew tired of bracket racing so he sold everything.

It was a T/A block, with a Milodon Super Stock pan (same thing I use in my car today...there isn’t a better set sumo pan out there) and before he sold it to me, he took the pan off and showed me the oiling system. He was shifting at 8500 and he said I won’t sell you this if you don’t promise to NEVER EVER change the oiling system.

He said he paid a hydraulics engineer to correct the system because he got tired of killing rod bearings. And that engineer corrected the oil timing. It had some small flaws which I eventually correct, but it worked.

I ran the engine for most of the year, and then it broke a couple of valve springs so I decided to freshen it up. I wasn’t building my own junk at the time, so I was at the mercy of the local shops.

To a man, every one of them HATED what was done to the oiling system. I said WTF??? We don’t have bearing issues, why screw with it. None of them had a clue and they beat me into changing it.

We also changed lifters because the guy doing the work HATED the Engle lifters I had, and he sold me some junk **** crane lifters.

When it went back together, the lifters were failing constantly, and everyone blamed the new cam (it was the JUNK Crane lifters) and we started killing rod bearings.

The upshot is (BTW that engine had Carillo rods and an 8 bolt crank) we changed the oil timing and it killed the bearings.

My dad had a friend who was a hydraulics engineer and he came by and looked at what we had going on. I told him how the system was, what we changed and what the results were.

First words out of his mouth were “why did you change the oil timing”? And then I realized exactly what happened and knew I should have listened to the guy who PAID to have it fixed.

So I put it back exactly the way it was, and I shifted between 8500-8800 and sometimes 9000 for the rest of my time drag racing and NEVER killed a bearing.

There are many who claim they shift that high, but I doubt them. They either lie or have a junk tach. I know what it takes to actually make power that high, on 340 inches and,oat guys aren’t even close to having the airflow and parts to do it. And they damn sure ain’t doing it with Chrysler oil timing.

If you want me to type out the fix I will. It’s quite simple really.
 
If you want me to type out the fix I will. It’s quite simple really.
Yes please.
 
OK YR... print it out or I'll have all of your posts sent directly to the YB forum for an official flogging!!!

No man could stand that...
 
YR has posted several times before
do a search
Crank drilling (cross drilling) is different than old school too
they sorta go together
I've had customers feed the drivers oil galley before but not actually drilled it that way myself
I'm going to ask around
Ive done the regular crossover for customers- not sold on it
I've front fed many sbc's but know of no easy way to feed the front of sbm (anyone?)
 
Jim...Im going to run an Accusump with the oil supply coming from a sandwich adaptor between the block and oil filter.

Ill place a T in that supply line, run it thru the rear china wall with a bulkhead adaptor, and run a #6 AN line to the front of the rightside lifter gallery then drill and tap for a 1/4” x #6 AN fitting.

I think the #6 should add enough oil flow to thr #1 main bearing to keep it alive.

I will also use King fully groove coated bearings.
 
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