Duane
Well-Known Member
Found these pics. Similar to what you want to do but yours would be inside the right Yr.
lifter galley crossover tube
- Thread starter douglas340
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Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
Duane thank you! & now that you mention it my racing partner has a junk SB chebby on a stand with the pan off so it will be real easy for me to pull a cap & try to grasp the crank hole part of this. Oh & I was originally thinking that I would be tapping into the bottom (6 o'clock) of the caps as opposed to coming in from the side(s) as shown in the pic.
Duane
Well-Known Member
Yes you would be. I was just trying to find you a similar example of what it looks like.
What are you building 340 ?
I dug out a couple old crankshafts, 72 340 cast, and a 72 400 chevy cast crank.
Also did a drawing and turned the crank 70 degrees from TDC on right bank and left bank,
It's not exact but should be close
Also did a drawing and turned the crank 70 degrees from TDC on right bank and left bank,
It's not exact but should be close
The SBC and SBM crank oil holes are identical, Hmm. So senses the right and left banks are 90* apart it would be hard to oil them from the side of the block or from the main caps, you would have to do them both. The left bank you could do from modifing the stock oil hole, the right bank you would have to modify the main cap and bearing. Drilling the cap will definitely weaken it so I would use a steel cap.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Hell, you did most of the work for me!! THANK YOU.
Now, if you can, grab a SBM and a SBC block and show where the oil feed hole in the block is.
You will note that at ~70 degrees past TDC, the oil hole in the block and the oil hole in the crank will be lined up on the Chevy. On the Chrysler, the oil feed hole in the crank will be PAST the oil feed hole block. That means that full pressure, full flow oil out to the rods was way too early.
If you can post some pictures it's pretty obvious what is wrong.
And, it's not really and issue until you wind it up or throw a big load of nitrous or boost on it. Then it will rear its ugly head sooner.
The picture of the big block above is pretty close to what I ended up with. The first system was all in the pan. The second system was external like the one above except I had bulkhead fittings in the pan so I could run lines to the bottom of the caps. That, and cross drilling corrects the oil timing.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
agreed, dynamite info. I am still overwhelmed by it but I am going to continue to go over it till it sinks in! Ok so it needs to have oil plumbed in from the side for one bank & from the bottom (6 o'clock in the main cap) in the other bank? & NO crossdrilling correct so far?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
No, the oil needs to come in from the cap, and the crank needs to be cross drilled.
Coming in from the side helps, but they did that because it was easier to do that with a skirted block.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
Oil to the (5) caps on the bottom (6 o'clock) & crossdrill the crank. I will reread & see if I grasp where to crossdrill.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
He's good people, he'll get over it!
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
just so I got it, feed #1/2/3/4 caps from the bottom? then on to the crossdrilling.
Duane
Well-Known Member
Just curious if you knew the amount in crankshaft rotational degrees how much difference there is between the two makes of blocks.
Also in the engine that you had the lines inside the pan did you anchor the lines to a windage tray or do anything to keep the lines out of the crankshaft path?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I used to remember how far ahead Chrysler oiling is but I don't remember now. It's pretty easy to figure. My best thought was it was 15-18 degrees too soon.
When I moved everything out of the pan, I made a 1.25 quart tank that I hung on the fire wall. The main oil out of the block went to the filter and from the filter to the top of the tank with number 10 lines. On the bottom of the tank I used 5 number 4 Teflon lines that ran to the pan, except for number 5 which ran to the clean oil in at the block and I had a "T" in it for oil pressure. The other 4 lines went to the side of the pan and went into the pan with number 4 bulkhead fittings. I made small holes in the windage tray. I don't recall now exactly but I know 3 of the lines has straight fittings hooking to the tank and 1 needed a 45 to get to it. I think that was number 1.
I never had a line hit anything and I left enough line to be able to drop the pan in the car and get the lines loose.
I had three different pans I did this with. The first was a Milodon super stock pan. Then I went to rack and pinion so the next pan was a Milodon dragster pan. I thought I needed a kick out so I bought a Stefs pan. What a piece of crapola that was. It had 2 simple oil dams in it and that was it. I called them and they said run it. I was worth about 10 HP at 8000 but it was hurting parts at the track. I had to weld three baffles in it to fix it.
The Milodon was a much better pan even though it gave up 10 HP.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Duane
Well-Known Member
What are your thoughts on the Milodon super stock pan with the swinging pickup. That is what I am planning to use in my dart.
I know Milodon stopped making them a while ago because they were not selling.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
That's the pan I run on my DD. I love that pan. It has its PITA issues but it's still the best pan for power and durability with a stock K member.
My pan uses the static pick up but the swinging one is just one more way to keep the pick up covered on deceleration. If you are into testing, I'd bet you can run a quart or two lower with the swinging pickup and not uncover it.
Cool stuff. I love old school that hasn't been improved on in 40 years.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
It's doable, but you want to make sure the lifters get oil AFTER the crank.
When you move the oil feed to the bottom of the cap, you use a (IIRC) 5/16 set screw and tap the the Chrysler oil feed to block the oil going to the lifters. If you are going to use PR oiling I'd either tube the passenger gallery or bush all the lifter bores. Then you drill an .0625 hole in the tube or the bushings to feed the lifter. The plugs you use to stop oil going to the lifter gallery you drill with a .125 hole and that will feed the lifters and pushrods.
Then you still have oil to the rods at the correct time, with full pressure and flow and the rods get liked before the lifters.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Bought this block with this mod already done. Keep it or ditch it? Passenger side is also tubed.
Thanks to everyone that participating in this thread.
some may have lost interest in the first paragraph, and that is ok.
How ever i live for these kind of threads!
A little late on this thread but have a few question, that have been explain.........but i still don't get fully. First i have never heard about this 70* oiling, and it make sence but how does the cross drilling actually look. and why it is a BAD idea in most cases.
Explain more as to when it is a good idea and why.
2nt i would have been the first to jump on the theory that oil will always travel to the lower pressure. although i still believe this.(head porting theory) The anlage of the defrost/ heater duct sure got me thinking.
I think this kind of talk don't come out, or never get the discussion that we have had the privilege to have this time., Because 95 percent of us have never revved are engs past 7000 (on purpose) and probably only 1% have purposely built and eng to turn 8000+rpm.
When i built my 408 stroker i told my machinist that i wanted a bottom end that would hold up to 8000 rpm. Which he provide for me, but I built. From what my machinist suggested and what Guitar Jones provide, i felt i had a bulletproof bottom end. I did every thing that he suggested EXC. the crossover tube. The way i tried it on my test motor, i couldn't get the intake on. in the end i put on some nice RHS head and a cam that runs out of breath at 5800 rpm.(because that work with all the other part in my car.)
Any way some day/year/century, these mod may become Very important.
some may have lost interest in the first paragraph, and that is ok.
How ever i live for these kind of threads!
A little late on this thread but have a few question, that have been explain.........but i still don't get fully. First i have never heard about this 70* oiling, and it make sence but how does the cross drilling actually look. and why it is a BAD idea in most cases.
Explain more as to when it is a good idea and why.
2nt i would have been the first to jump on the theory that oil will always travel to the lower pressure. although i still believe this.(head porting theory) The anlage of the defrost/ heater duct sure got me thinking.
I think this kind of talk don't come out, or never get the discussion that we have had the privilege to have this time., Because 95 percent of us have never revved are engs past 7000 (on purpose) and probably only 1% have purposely built and eng to turn 8000+rpm.
When i built my 408 stroker i told my machinist that i wanted a bottom end that would hold up to 8000 rpm. Which he provide for me, but I built. From what my machinist suggested and what Guitar Jones provide, i felt i had a bulletproof bottom end. I did every thing that he suggested EXC. the crossover tube. The way i tried it on my test motor, i couldn't get the intake on. in the end i put on some nice RHS head and a cam that runs out of breath at 5800 rpm.(because that work with all the other part in my car.)
Any way some day/year/century, these mod may become Very important.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Im lost on that one. That cross over makes no sense to me. If you tubed the passenger side gallery so you stop oil leaks at the lifters, you should have stopped oil going to the drivers side with a plug under the number 1 main bearing. There should be no oil on the drivers side at all.
I can't understand why you would put oil back on the drivers side, or why you'd have oil going all the way down the passenger side, down to the crank, around the number 1 main, back up to the drivers side, into the crossover and back over to the passenger side where the oil already was.
Or, why is the oil going into the crossover to the drivers side, where you don't want any oil in the first place?
Let us know what you are trying to accomplish and then maybe it will make sense. As of now, I'm lost. Which is nothing new for me.
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