gzig5
Well-Known Member
Why?
Lightweight flywheel options and selection criteria.
- Thread starter gzig5
- Start date
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Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
3700 lbs and not much hp/tq = 30 lb flywheel
I have used 30lb steel, lightweght steel and aluminum with good results in the correct applications. AL flywheel will make you miserable on the street.
I have used 30lb steel, lightweght steel and aluminum with good results in the correct applications. AL flywheel will make you miserable on the street.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Because he can't do it. Other than that, there is no reason to run a steel flywheel with a SLR of 10:1. If you can tune you can even have a taller SLR and use an aluminum FW.
99% of the issue is tuning. I've been running aluminum flywheels on everything I can since the mid 1980's. I would never go back.
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
Expand on this with examples please. I have had no luck running light fw's on the street with 600+ hp/tq. It has more to do with how the clutch reacts to the engine speed down low.
Out of curiosity, what clutch do you run? What transmision and rear gear ratio?
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Com'on Newbomb,
please don't attack my street tuning skills.
We all have had the same experience; and you're flogging a deadhorse.
Possibly, you're just willing to put up with stuff that we are not. Or your driving-style is different. or, or, or. Plus, did I not qualify my skill beforhand? Lemmee go check.
Yes I did.
So now, I'll just throw it back at you.
You are entitled to offer your opinion. You don't need to insult those that do not hold to the same opinion; and it's really bad form to basically call me an incompetent. You've done that a couple if times already, and not just to me; and until now, I've let it slide. I have no desire to get into a pissing contest with you. If you wish to to continue in this manner, it will only reflect poorly on your character.
We have heard your opinion. We can all read, so yeah, we get it.
please don't attack my street tuning skills.
We all have had the same experience; and you're flogging a deadhorse.
Possibly, you're just willing to put up with stuff that we are not. Or your driving-style is different. or, or, or. Plus, did I not qualify my skill beforhand? Lemmee go check.
Yes I did.
So now, I'll just throw it back at you.
You are entitled to offer your opinion. You don't need to insult those that do not hold to the same opinion; and it's really bad form to basically call me an incompetent. You've done that a couple if times already, and not just to me; and until now, I've let it slide. I have no desire to get into a pissing contest with you. If you wish to to continue in this manner, it will only reflect poorly on your character.
We have heard your opinion. We can all read, so yeah, we get it.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
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I edited my post, maybe you missed it.
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
I have 3 stick cars. They are all built diffrent f
My GTS, up until recently , had a RAM Powergrip HD with some pp shim and a clutch tamer setup. RAM billet 30lb flywhee. 3.23 gear, 235-60-14 bias ply DOT tire. The pictures show the sisc after 3 seasons and 100+ passes most of them on a small nitrous kit. The friction material properties of the disc and pp base psi dictate how harsh the clutch grabs. High coef of friction at low RPM bogs the engine down and low engine speeds cause the disc to chatter. Chatter that shakes the dash. This type of situ will shake the 8 track out of the deck.
In my case a heavg steel fw makes sense. It's not a tuning issue it's a keeping the engine from bogging down while still maintainjng a decent idle speed AFR issue.
Big carburetors need some idle speed to be responsive with a big solid roller cam in my experience.
I have a lighter car (3000 lb) that is not street driven (1100hp w/ a Lenco) that will use an aluminum RAM flywheel with a sintered iron disc. Totally different deal.
My other beater (3600 lb) has the same clutch with a steel flywheel for the same reason as the GTS.
Maybe you can post a current picture of your car? I know I'm not alone in wanting to see it.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
This is why I know you can’t tune.
Look at everything else you say can’t be done that’s being done. You say it can’t be done because YOU can’t do it
I don’t put up with ****. My wife can drive my car. And my wife is far from what I’d call a “driver” and she drives it just fine.
The only complaint she had back then was the clunking during slow speed Turing from the locker. She thought she was “hurting” the car. For me, I usually roll around parking lots faster than she does so I rarely heard a clunk. If clunking bothers you (the very little it did it) there is always checkers.
Oh wait, you can’t drive those on the street either. I forgot.
So to unscrew her issue with that, I put a spool in it. Can’t drive those on the street either according to YOU.
I run a clutch on the street that 99% of the people making suggestions on ANY media say is absolutely an unstreetable clutch. Since I’m doing doing it and I in fact KNOW it for a fact, I can say it’s the best street driving clutch I’ve ever used. And I’ve had them all. Either in my cars or in other peoples cars.
I’ll say it again. If you can’t run an aluminum FW on the street because it doesn’t drive “nice” or whatever it’s your tune up. And probably the junk ****, garbage can, birth control GM **** bag clutch.
Oh ****, I forgot another one I do that’s impossible. I run way higher compression ratios on pump gas. Ratios that people say can’t be done. Yet I do it. And my wife can drive it to the pump and fill it up.
In closing, I will say I agree with you on one thing. Too much idle timing makes them a bit of a ***** to drive. That’s part of the tune up right?
Thank God it’s 2025 and all the myths from the flathead days of old are still alive and well.
Oh yeah, I do it with a 3.313 stroke.
I almost forgot to mention I’ll be updating my clutch in a year or so. I have a 12 pound FW.
The new clutch will come in a little under 10 pounds. From my clutch guy. And he knows I drive it on the street.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I’ve posted my thoughts on clutches like that so I won’t do it again.
But that’s a major reason why you have issues using a light FW.
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
I appreciate your continued insight. I'm not sure what arena you play in during the day but where I live if you do something unconventional that many people have tried and failed with you either have an outlier or something isn't adding up in the story. At this point the burden of proof lies on you.
Am I the only one that has a camera?
In this day and age if you are going to have a strong opinion you had better be able to back it up with some type of proof. Things like pictures of your car at a racetrack go a long way LOL
SixPaksRule
Well-Known Member
My experience consists of at least 50 road course days flogging a variety of street vehicles not race cars over 20 yrs or so. All were set up for surviving hot laps. I hope this qualifies to express an opinion based on experience.
The fastest car had a wicked pump gas stroker 416 with an sfi 30lb flywheel. The reciprocating crank rod piston mass was so light that the car did not need the light flywheel to get the engine to snap when rev'd. Many stroker engines are lazy due to poor cam choice and poor tune up. Herb McCandless made the cam choice btw
My clutch choice was and still is different that what others used and i would still use that configuration if i were to build another street car that also runs on the track - because it works. I have the engine and steering wheel so far for the next car...
As for the tune up - the tune up is very critical esp with a light flywheel configuration. Most cars do not run well even though the owner operator thinks otherwise
The fastest car had a wicked pump gas stroker 416 with an sfi 30lb flywheel. The reciprocating crank rod piston mass was so light that the car did not need the light flywheel to get the engine to snap when rev'd. Many stroker engines are lazy due to poor cam choice and poor tune up. Herb McCandless made the cam choice btw
My clutch choice was and still is different that what others used and i would still use that configuration if i were to build another street car that also runs on the track - because it works. I have the engine and steering wheel so far for the next car...
As for the tune up - the tune up is very critical esp with a light flywheel configuration. Most cars do not run well even though the owner operator thinks otherwise
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I don’t need to prove anything.
I don’t care who thinks it can be done, or not.
Keep doing what you are doing because it’s working for you.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Yup, if I had to get something out of tight corners I’d have a 30 pound wheel.
I grew up when 50 pound flywheels were standard stuff in the drag racing classes I care about.
Today a 4 inch stroke is normal. Even a 3.5 inch stroke would have been considered LONG by Modified Eliminator engines back then.
I had to get my head around why not to use a steel flywheel.
I broke more **** and cost myself more money breaking **** that was considered bullet proof it’s not funny. And that is heavy flywheels and junk clutches.
I’ve been sitting on a video for a few years. I’ve been wanting to post it but I took it without the guy knowing it.
I at least wanted to show him first, but I’ve never seen him again.
I think it’s been long enough now that I can post it.
It’s a learning tool as to what a jacked up clutch, a heavy flywheels and maladjusted traction bars do.
I’ll post it up in a bit.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
My experience.
72 Duster, probably 3400ish lbs.
422ci W2 stroker. 245/253 .600 solid roller. 850 QF carb.
2.66 ratio 4 speed with a Ram Powergrip clutch and a Ram aluminum flywheel.
3.91 rear and 275/60 drag radials.
I absolutely LOVE the aluminum flywheel. When you step on the loud pedal at any time it will go to the 6500 rpm rev limiter immediately.
Extremely low speed (below 10mph) gets slightly jerky but I don’t go that slow anyway. I’m considering going to a 4.30 rear and that may cure some of the low speed issues. Revs like a sewing machine and will melt the drag radials through second gear.
Powergrip Performance Clutch Kits - RAM Clutches
2583 - Aluminum flywheel Chrysler 8 bolt 130 tooth - RAM Clutches
72 Duster, probably 3400ish lbs.
422ci W2 stroker. 245/253 .600 solid roller. 850 QF carb.
2.66 ratio 4 speed with a Ram Powergrip clutch and a Ram aluminum flywheel.
3.91 rear and 275/60 drag radials.
I absolutely LOVE the aluminum flywheel. When you step on the loud pedal at any time it will go to the 6500 rpm rev limiter immediately.
Extremely low speed (below 10mph) gets slightly jerky but I don’t go that slow anyway. I’m considering going to a 4.30 rear and that may cure some of the low speed issues. Revs like a sewing machine and will melt the drag radials through second gear.
Powergrip Performance Clutch Kits - RAM Clutches
2583 - Aluminum flywheel Chrysler 8 bolt 130 tooth - RAM Clutches
weedburner
Well-Known Member
Lots of entertaining banter about flywheel weights in this thread...
Tame my 4-speed Stroker....
Grant
Tame my 4-speed Stroker....
Grant
I've always loved the look of that car!
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