Lock picking

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"I’m on pins and needles."


You mean pins and tumblers????????:rofl::poke:

padlock-diagram.jpg
 
@Cope ...If it's proving too difficult I'll understand if you're ready to return it??? Don't want to take up all your valuable time.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
@Treblig

No sir.

In fact I have been in touch with a very good picker.

I would ask for an extension. Give me until oct 31 2020.

I will gladly send you your property back.

I promise I have no desire to steal your lock.

Thank you for trusting me.
 
Quote from a much smarter fella.

"Actual disassembly of the lock you are trying to open is likely to be at least partially destructive. Best not to do that with a lock that is not your own."


So i can not remove the pins. That is all bad.

The way forward is to make a key. I am already on key, Mark 2.

I have seven key blanks en route.

This lock will open!

And will be returned in better condition than received.
 
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I trust that you return the lock in good condition I was just worried about you having to take so much of your time. I don't mind waiting if you don't mind taking the time to try and get the lock open. I'm afraid that if you try and knock out the pins it will really take away from the originality of the lock. I tried to knock the pins out (very carefully)....they wouldn't budge. They've probably been in there for a hundred years!! If you can't pick the lock I'll still be happy with it. Please do not try and disassemble the lock. Thanks, Treblig in Texas
 
Yes, that is a key i made.

She still will not open.


It's just a matter of time.
 
Im concerned about the new key getting to thin in the center. So i am on attempt #3.
 
Problem is the key blanks i ordered aint right.

I dont think the key blanks you have are right.

The true key blank has a ridge or spine down the center.

The spine needs to be able to with stand the torque even when it is cut very thin.
 
Cope said:
Problem is the key blanks i ordered aint right.

I dont think the key blanks you have are right.

The true key blank has a ridge or spine down the center.

The spine needs to be able to with stand the torque even when it is cut very thin.
Click to expand...
I would take a chisel and tap a groove down the middle of the blank to give it rigidity. Like making a crease down the center like a body line on a car that makes the body panel more rigid.
 
I post up a pic of an original key.

I actually bought a working lock with key just to study it and use that info on the attack on your lock.

:)
 
Also the pic I posted on the first page of this thread shows a lock exactly like mine. The one with the key and the ruler. It's the same in every way, same dimension and rivets and the embossing down to every detail??
 
I think i wrote this a while back that the key opening looked like it required a key with a rounded raised portion down the middle but then I found that pic of one just like mine and it showed the flat key.
 
make sure you keep track of how much you spend so I repay you...please!!
 
I think the flay keys are a much later blank.

They will work for this lock.

The stock i am using to "impression" the new key is soft aluminum and while i am about 2 degrees from opening i am afraid the "key" i am working on will fail inside the lock making this lock likely to never open.

I am not sure what to do. If you would like i would gladly use the two blanks you have and use them.

No guarantee that i just don't turn them into garbage tho.

Or i can send you the lock and "key" and you can file the last .02" off. It is so close to opening but at the same time i am terrified of this key breaking inside.
 
No sir i dont want any money.

It is my pleasure to work on such a awsome peice of America history.

Thank you!
 
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