more slant problems

-
There are 2 adjusting nuts on the distributor, one holds the distributor to the mounting plate (if I remember correctly) and one holds the plate to the motor, THAT is the one you want to adjust. The plate to distributor is factory set and you dont want to adjust that one. Help me out Moparkid...

what do you need help with lol... seems like your on it...

and you do have to mess with the other bolt if you want timing up in the 28-32 range...

I've never seen that make any difference when setting the timing but probably a good idea so something doesn't get sucked up into the hose.

good habit to get into but yea a 1/4" line will make almost no difference
 
Sounds exactly like my 69 Slant Six w/ Holley 1920. Idled like that for 18 years, driving me crazy. Always wanted to die when you shift from N to D and idled smoother with the choke plate held down. Wasn't timing, though it idled better w/ a lot of advance (20 deg?). After ~3 carbs plus rebuilds, valve jobs, even a new long block (wasn't compression!), I finally got another Holley 1920. It then magically ran like a dream. I think those are the classic signs of running lean and it seems there are a lot of bad Holley 1920's out there and poor rebuild shops. Not sure why the last carb was so much better. Car was stolen a few months after that.
 
Nope, it's not a float problem. That would show up at high RPM's first or going around a sharp corner. If it runs better with the choke on, it's running too lean. That could be a vacuum leak or a partially plugged idle fuel circuit. I've also seen faulty gaskets that blocked (or opened) a circuit causing a flow problem too but it's pretty rare and I haven't seen that with a 1920. Most of their problems (other than the chronic fuel bowl cover leaks) are in the metering block. You say you have no vacuum leaks.....have you checked what the manifold vacuum reading is?

I think I have solved my float bowl cover leak. What I did is I went to ace and bough a couple of inner hex head screws, I call them set screws, and locking washer. I was able to tighten it down with a little more torque then a screw driver. Don't know if you want to try this but it seemed worth it to me.
 
well i took it for a test drive today and it went great, no stalling whatsoever :D i guess the timing did the Job. one thing that did happen though that actually has been happening for a while on and off is that after i take it on a drive, when i turn the car off it makes a sound almost like steam shooting out of something.... the car doesn't have an overflow bottle yet so i was wondering if that could be the cause of the noise? there is a hose but no bottle. it hasnt seemed to affect drive-ability in the past but it is a bit annoying and i would like to figure out what it is.
 
well i took it for a test drive today and it went great, no stalling whatsoever :D i guess the timing did the Job. one thing that did happen though that actually has been happening for a while on and off is that after i take it on a drive, when i turn the car off it makes a sound almost like steam shooting out of something.... the car doesn't have an overflow bottle yet so i was wondering if that could be the cause of the noise? there is a hose but no bottle. it hasnt seemed to affect drive-ability in the past but it is a bit annoying and i would like to figure out what it is.

ok is it dieseling (running after you shut off the key?) or steam?

i would install a overflow bottle no matter what. i install them in the inner fender... i can get a pic later
 
it doesnt sound like it is still running. theres no exhaust at least. im going to install an overflow, i have to where i live anyway. the only tings i can think of the sound being is steam let off or the fan spinning to a stop maybe? i was planning on taking ot for a drive and then i was going to look under the hood while someone else turns it off to see if i can get a better i dea. so when i do that ill let you guys know if i find anything.
 
Piston comes up but no spark since the ignition is shut off and he's hearing the compression bypassing through a cracked valve face.


Bet?





well i took it for a test drive today and it went great, no stalling whatsoever :D i guess the timing did the Job. one thing that did happen though that actually has been happening for a while on and off is that after i take it on a drive, when i turn the car off it makes a sound almost like steam shooting out of something.... the car doesn't have an overflow bottle yet so i was wondering if that could be the cause of the noise? there is a hose but no bottle. it hasnt seemed to affect drive-ability in the past but it is a bit annoying and i would like to figure out what it is.
 
Piston comes up but no spark since the ignition is shut off and he's hearing the compression bypassing through a cracked valve face.


Bet?

with such a low comp i would think you could hear it...

could be an exhaust leak... very small....
 
An exhaust leak would not make a hissing sound when the car was shut off unless he had a badly plugged up Cat converter.
Doubt that's the case here.
A compression test is a lot easier than quite a bit of the other suggestions here, and could answer some need to know questions and narrow the solution quite a bit.


with such a low comp i would think you could hear it...

could be an exhaust leak... very small....
 
well i dont have a cat on the exhaust so that cant be it. also it only happens every once in a while not all the time so im not sure it could be the piston thingy
 
Maybe the brake booster or some other vacuum reservoir leaking down? Sometimes A/C systems will make some odd sounds when they equalize after shutdown too.
 
-
Back
Top