Motor Plate/Water Pump Leak Issue

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jefflock

jefflock

69 Dart 408 10.08 best pass so far
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I have a motor plate installed on my 416 stroker 69 Dart drag car. Along with this I have an proform branded electric water pump. My issue is the water pump gasket on the engine side of the water pump will leak. I have tried using 2 gaskets but they still will slip out and leak. I have found the water pump bolts will tend to work loose and I'm guessing it's from the motor moving around a little.

Anyone have any ideas on how to prevent this???

I do have strut rods mounted to the block motor mounts. One for forward/backward movement and one on the drivers side to hold it down.
 
Jeff, does it leak when it's first assembled, or does it hold tight for a while then start to leak after a while?
If it holds for a while after assembly, I would LocTite the WP bolts in place and see how that goes.

Good luck buddy.

George
 
Maybe the use of studs instead of bolts and loctite on the nuts, as george spoke of, would give you more sustained clamping force?
 
try using aviation gasket sealer on the motor side gaskets. it comes in palastic small jar with a brush. that stuff will work for you. also use grade 8 bolts and tighten the pi&& out of them.
 
George R said:
Jeff, does it leak when it's first assembled, or does it hold tight for a while then start to leak after a while?
If it holds for a while after assembly, I would LocTite the WP bolts in place and see how that goes.

Good luck buddy.

George
Click to expand...

It holds for a while then leaks.
 
OldmanRick said:
Maybe the use of studs instead of bolts and loctite on the nuts, as george spoke of, would give you more sustained clamping force?
Click to expand...

I'll look into studs.

Bob, I'll see what I can find.
Arco, I usually do let it set for a day or so before I add water.
 
I have never used a gasket with my motor plate and haven't had any leaks at all. Nothing, but RTV.

FWIW, I use studs.
 
ab7fh said:
I have never used a gasket with my motor plate and haven't had any leaks at all. Nothing, but RTV.

FWIW, I use studs.
Click to expand...

Small block or big block???
 
Do you have a fore-aft limiter? If not that may help keep things tight.
 
ab7fh said:
Do you have a fore-aft limiter? If not that may help keep things tight.
Click to expand...

Yes I do, On a small block the motor plate uses all the water pump bolts to the plate. Also the electric pump uses the two long bolts on each side.
 
Some people run gaskets on the BB too, but what I've read is that the gaskets can move around causing a leak. RTV lets you pull everything together tighter and gives a very thin, flexible seal.

When I researched this for my setup, it was always the gasket guys who were looking for a way to seal, and the RTV guys who were claiming they never had a problem:dontknow:

Not saying gaskets will always leak. I'm sure there are plenty of folks who have made it work, but it just seemed to be a trend.

As far as the aviation gasket stuff, is that the stuff that hardens and becomes brittle? Or is it a flexible "goop"?

The stuff that hardens is a PITA to get off where the RTV just peels off. I hate making more work for myself;)
 
I've never had a problem with mine. I have a Mezziere pump with a home made backplate that is 3/8" thick. I use grade 8 allen heads with a flat washer and just regular gaskets.

Is your plate mounted to the stock front frame rail? Maybe that's the difference as the plate is larger with less support at the top to keep it from flexing. Mine is rather short with mounts pretty high up.

390304709.jpg
 
You may be able to run the motor plate as the back plate for the MEziere style water pump, but Im thinking the leas is at the back between the plate and the motor. I dont think a fiber gasket will hold, RTV will give a little and should work. that or O ring it (got a CNC mill handy with free programming time, probably not..)
 
Back Plate? Do you mean midmount? Or the plate that seals up the water pump hole in the motor plate?
 
What trans mount are you using?What type of fore aft limiter are you using? Frame to block ear? midplate?
 
I have run motor plates scene the 70s with only RTV and have never had a leak.If your using RTV with a gasket that's your trouble...............Artie
 
I went ahead and tried to use everyone's suggestion to some degree. I made studs for the long water pump bolts. Plus I transfered the accessory holes in the front of the heads to the motor plate. I also made studs and aluminum spacers for those holes. I figure they will give the plate added support from flexing. The first time I put it together I went with only silicone sealer. Fired it up after letting it cure 24 hours. It leaked. Took it back apart, cleaned everything up and reassembled the parts using 1 gasket on each side of the motor plate. Let it cure overnight and so far no leaks. I hope this cures my problem until the motor is pulled this winter for freshening. I will replace the timing cover then because of some corrosion on the sealing face.
Thanks for all your help. Jeff
 

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Perhaps by incorporating the head accessory holes into the plate, you will reduce the amount of twisting movement the engine was experiencing and it will last. You have removed some leverage from the engine by doing so.
I think you got it this time.

Good Luck!!

George
 
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