My 340 build

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So i tried to go further in the build and install the intake and i ran into this problem? Bolt holes wont line up. I did try using the thicker. 065 felpro intake gasket since i had it already but i ordered the .060 felpro gasket(normal one) to see if it will let it go down a bit further. If not i guess shave the intake? My machinist said he doesn't think he took enough off too mess with it but to try the thinner gasket and then go from there. What do u guys think? Its the front left and right that look like they need to vome down a bit? As yoi can see the rear lines up

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Assuming you have the dowel pins out of the china walls. Does the intake fit without the gasket?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Assuming you have the dowel pins out of the china walls. Does the intake fit without the gasket?
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This. Either get some .030 gaskets if they still make them (they used to but who knows any more) or take another .030-.040 off each side. You'll also have to take some off the end rails of the intake. The closer to the China wall the end rails are the better, as long as they ain't holding the intake up.

BTW, make sure that is not happening right now. I've seen the end rails holding the intake up.

I don't know where these guys get that you don't have to test fit the intake. It has little to do with what's need decked off the block or heads. Who says your intake manifold isn't on the wide side of the tolerance?

You have to test fit everything and assume nothing. I've had to machine intakes on engines I know had never been apart.
 
This when i test fitted it, so im thinking i beed to have my machinist take a little of the intske?

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I would test fit it without the end gaskets (the thick cork ones). That might be what it throwing off the alignment....on a side note, I would also not use the cork end gaskets, just lay down a bead of RTV and you're good to go.
 
Im the last picture u can still see whem i dry fit it that it didnt sit right
 
So should i mill it like .015 or .020. I called my machinist and asked him the cost and he said around 175 but i could tell if he was joking is that the average price?
 
MoparMark91 said:
So should i mill it like .015 or .020. I called my machinist and asked him the cost and he said around 175 but i could tell if he was joking is that the average price?
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Damn. I charged 60 bucks a side for .040 and under. I should have raised my prices.

You need to stick the gaskets on the head and not only look at how the bolt holes line up but see if you can see if the ports are even close.
 
If the head holes are ending up low relative to the intake holes, that is what you want! The intake will move downward as you torque the bolts in place and compress the intake gaskets. If the head holes are in the near the top of the intake holes when you start, then the bolts may bind in the intake as it tries to move down during torquing and prevent the intake from clamping the gaskets properly.

We had the exact same type of alignment with our Edelbrocks and a new Edelbrock intake, and had to wiggle and fanagle the intake bolts and push down hard on the intake to get them all started. But they torqued down and you can be sure the intake did not bind. I can't remember who said it here on this site before, but they had someone stand on the top of the intake to press it down to get the bolts started LOL.

In your case, I'd be more concerned with the rear of the intake moving down when torqued and the bolts possibly binding on the intake. (Probably not an issue, just a concern.) As for machining, as said, the intake surfaces may be tapered front to back on one side or both.

Are the head bolts all in place, and snugged in place here? If not, then things are going to move some more and your intake fit right now may not be right. At least have all the head bolts in place with maybe 10 ft lbs torque to make sure they are aligned as close as they can to where they will be.
 
I always put the cork gaskets on but not the intake gaskets and do up the bolts on the manifold to squash the cork gaskets. Then I take the manifold off and the install the intake gaskets and button up. Have never had a leak after doing this.
 
So pretty eventful day, i got up and been wanting to go to turners auto wreckers in fresno so took a quick trip and i have to say it is massive. I will be going there for some parts i need but didnt see a lot of a body's for some reason but also didnt get to see it all since its so massive. So after we got back i started on the intake and one thing that im kinda of bummed about is i noticed a small spec of aluminum that was wedged in between valley pan and the lifter valley. I tried to grab it with forceps and a q tip but as i lifted it up it broke in half....the other part i have no idea where it landed so im kind of worried it dropped into the engine somewhere but i couldnt find it anywhere but it was only about 1/16 in length and aluminum so i guess ill hope it didnt fall in. It must have came from the heads somehow but i did clean everything so still unknown. Well after stressing for 2 hours looking for that i gave up. So i moved onto 2nd attempt of intake install so this time i took all of tour advice into consideration and bam! Installed and torqued to spec.

Hope that spec of aluminum didnt fall in engine somehow and if it did hopefully it will get caught in filter so well see i guess still been thinking about it...

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From the valley area, it will very likely wash to the pan, unless it gets stuck in some corner of the valley. It may sit there or get washed to the screen. If the pickup screen mesh is smaller than the chunk, it will stay in the pan. If the chunk is small enough to get past the screen, the 1st thing it gets to is the oil pump.... where it will do no good and get mashed into particles. Then it gets to the filter.

Perhaps pull the pan and check there? Any chance it went down an intake port? Reminds me of my missing a bolt and never finding it.... it hid behind an intake valve stem and I never saw it in there. Not a good outcome. So this small missing AL particle is some degree of risk.
 
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Yes i plan on throwing some oil through it and popping off pan to double check just in case. I need to look at my spare oil pickup screen to see how fine the mesh is.

Also just for fun so what are your guys guesstimates on the power this engine will put out? Lol Should be about another month before its in
 
you do NOT want a thumper in that high compression motor
Whiplish instructions get it right

just look at the lca at that duration realle early intake close
fkn comp
get the lunati call around
jegs or lunati for a list of their distributors

a wider lca will cut the cylinder pressure down also
(retards intake close)
that 268 -you could stick it in straight up (4 degrees retarded from what they recommend)
still I do not like that cam
a stock cam would also work till you get the right cam
you might pm dart19666 and see if he has something on the shelf- but not their short catalog cams- they are mass produced- no better than the comp- larger ones are good
a 281 would work but not in catalog
 
A little late with that advice by the looks of it :poke:
Wyrmrider said:
you do NOT want a thumper in that high compression motor
Whiplish instructions get it right

just look at the lca at that duration realle early intake close
fkn comp
get the lunati call around
jegs or lunati for a list of their distributors

a wider lca will cut the cylinder pressure down also
(retards intake close)
that 268 -you could stick it in straight up (4 degrees retarded from what they recommend)
still I do not like that cam
a stock cam would also work till you get the right cam
you might pm dart19666 and see if he has something on the shelf- but not their short catalog cams- they are mass produced- no better than the comp- larger ones are good
a 281 would work but not in catalog
Click to expand...
 
Wyrmrider said:
you do NOT want a thumper in that high compression motor
Whiplish instructions get it right

just look at the lca at that duration realle early intake close
fkn comp
get the lunati call around
jegs or lunati for a list of their distributors

a wider lca will cut the cylinder pressure down also
(retards intake close)
that 268 -you could stick it in straight up (4 degrees retarded from what they recommend)
still I do not like that cam
a stock cam would also work till you get the right cam
you might pm dart19666 and see if he has something on the shelf- but not their short catalog cams- they are mass produced- no better than the comp- larger ones are good
a 281 would work but not in catalog
Click to expand...
I ended up using a xe275hl
 
Problem I'm having now is I wanted to use my 3 row aluminum radiator from the slant for this engine and the bottom radiator lower hose size is 1 1/2 and the water pump is 1 3/4
 
let us know how that HL works
and what converter it likes
some threads have said it was not happy with stock hp converter
post up your cranking compression when you get a chance

put a piece of 1 1/2 hose on and 1 3/4 over it
or any radiator shop can fix
everything on the same sides is always good
 
Wyrmrider said:
let us know how that HL works
and what converter it likes
some threads have said it was not happy with stock hp converter
post up your cranking compression when youget a chance
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I bought a 3k-3200k stall dynamic so we shall see how it does just need to finish rebuilding trans and button up motor install
 
MoparMark91 said:
I bought a 3k-3200k stall dynamic so we shall see how it does just need to finish rebuilding trans and button up motor install
Click to expand...

I'm interest in how this works for you, so please update when you get there. I've got an XE275HL sitting on the shelf waiting for some other work to happen. I've got a 2500 stall but that is supposed to be OK with this one. I may have the 4 speed conversion done by then so for me the converter may be a moot point, but everything is in flux.
 
Any updates. I read the whole thread. I’m building my stroker 390 right now and it was nice to read all the hurdles you had to overcome to get yours done. Hoping it was a huge success at the end of the day.
 
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