My 340 build

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On that mag article
no idea if they dialed in the valve train geometry with those custom 1.7 rockers
I used to run the Erson 1.75 Iron rockers successfully
unfortunately Erson destroyed/ lost the tooling a long time ago
did take some grinding for pushrod clearance
since then the "Engine Master" builders have more experience with high ratios and shorter cams to fit those rules
I'd look there if any instabilities
 
Thanks Gzig5
be sure and read up on rocker arm geometry with all those custom pieces
start with the 4 tech articles on the B3 website
 
Wyrmrider said:
god to know- you are a leg up on most
are you going to oil adjusters through the pushrods?
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At this point I see no reason to do anything outside the standard LA motor oiling scheme. That would require an AMC style lifter and hollow pushrods if I'm not mistaken. B3 seems to like these rockers and I'm not aware of any oiling specific mods he makes to them. I may groove the shafts but I haven't solidified that decision because the rockers have a big oil retention groove between the bushings that may negate the need to do that.
 
gzig5 said:
At this point I see no reason to do anything outside the standard LA motor oiling scheme. That would require an AMC style lifter and hollow pushrods if I'm not mistaken. B3 seems to like these rockers and I'm not aware of any oiling specific mods he makes to them. I may groove the shafts but I haven't solidified that decision because the rockers have a big oil retention groove between the bushings that may negate the need to do that.
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Remind me of what rockers you have. If Mike set you up, you won't have any issues.
 
Be careful with the stock eddy valve springs, they really aren’t “good” for the lift advertised. “Good” to me means you have safety margin.
 
yellow rose said:
Remind me of what rockers you have. If Mike set you up, you won't have any issues.
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They are PRW stainless steel. I didn't get them from Mike at B3 but I think he uses them. Waiting for the heads to arrive and then I will start setting them up and see how the sweep patterns look. The swap won't happen until this winter.

furrystump said:
Be careful with the stock eddy valve springs, they really aren’t “good” for the lift advertised. “Good” to me means you have safety margin.
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If that is addressed to me, the ProMaxx head doesn't use Eddy springs. I think they were either Comp or PAC. I will be paying attention to them and I was assured that they would work with this cam, and Chad seems to know his stuff.
 
MoparMark91 said:
Well i feel the lift will work perfect with my eddy heads especially if i do a light port job.
Also the cam i feel would be perfect woth my compression ratio ill have i hope, might have to upgrade torque converter but we will see. I almost have same setup as you just carb different and heads as for top end
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When do you think you'll have the motor up and running? I'm not planning to do the head/cam swap until it's tucked away for the winter.
 
gzig5 said:
They are PRW stainless steel. I didn't get them from Mike at B3 but I think he uses them. Waiting for the heads to arrive and then I will start setting them up and see how the sweep patterns look. The swap won't happen until this winter.


If that is addressed to me, the ProMaxx head doesn't use Eddy springs. I think they were either Comp or PAC. I will be paying attention to them and I was assured that they would work with this cam, and Chad seems to know his stuff.
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Thanks. Same rockers I use. And the B3 Kit. I wouldn't groove the shafts. There is way more oil up there than you will need. Just keep your hot idle oil pressure above 30 at the lowest and you'll be fine.
 
most lifters sold today are the AMC style
may be used with no hole pushrods
but I found extra oil helped with stock rockers and with adjuster ball smokeing
having correct geometry helps a bunch
 
So just got done with more work on the block,
Checked how much my pistons are out of the hole(Had concerns at first but figured out i wss reading dial wrong D'oh!)

Left bank varies from .003-.005 out
Right bank varies from 004-.005 out
Happy with results as if my calculations are correct this motor with the head gaskets i plan on running with be 10.5 to 1

Degreed cam
Oil pump and pickup
Timing cover and water pump
Oil pan

I will post pictures in morning
 
MoparMark91 said:
So just got done with more work on the block,
Checked how much my pistons are out of the hole(Had concerns at first but figured out i wss reading dial wrong D'oh!)

Left bank varies from .003-.005 out
Right bank varies from 004-.005 out
Happy with results as if my calculations are correct this motor with the head gaskets i plan on running with be 10.5 to 1

Degreed cam
Oil pump and pickup
Timing cover and water pump
Oil pan

I will post pictures in morning
Click to expand...



That .002 variance is most likely stroke length indexing (meaning not all the throws were ground exactly the same and this is quite common) connecting rod center to center variance, pin height differences or the tolerance stack up of some or all of those things.
 
Does anyone have the head stud placement also? Dont gave the one bottom water pump bomt in since it only engages like 1 thread so might get something a hair longer?

20190813_094533.jpg


View attachment 1715378380
 
Okay update on the build got a little farther on assembly and decided to stick with my xe275HL

I was concerned with this cam and piston to valve clearance but after checking it looks like i had plenty of room according to the clay and the readings, i did cylinder 1 & 2 but only took pictures of 2
Still have to order pushrods i measured woth adjustable pushrod then stock pushrods from a 318. Only problem is i couldnt check with the checking springs since my valve spring tool broke within like 5mins of using it lame...but read that i could use my springs but just would be harder to turn over

20190901_132143.jpg


20190901_011710.jpg
 
Hydraulic lifters..... if the lifters are not oiled up, then they will tend to collapse with the regular spring pressures, and not push the valves as far as they will when running and pumped up. You're probably not in any trouble with that cam but be cautious with what you found this way.

BTW your piston height variations are darned good.

If I may ask, did you buy the rotating assembly already balanced by SCAT? I just don't see that being mentioned anywhere.
 
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nm9stheham said:
Hydraulic lifters..... if the lifters are not oiled up, then they will tend to collapse with the regular spring pressures, and not push the valves as far as they will when running and pumped up. You're probably not in any trouble with that cam but be cautious with what you found this way.

BTW your piston height variations are darned good.

If I may ask, did you buy the rotating assembly already balanced by SCAT? I just don't see that being mentioned anywhere.
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Yes i bought it balanced and i did use solid lifters to measure just i couldnt swap the valve springs cause my tool broke lol
 
Hey quick question might be dumb but its been on my mind guys so with me running the eddy closed chamber heads and my pistons max being out of hole .005 and using the felpro 1008 head gaskets with .039 thickness, is that going to give me issues? My valve clearance is good but just curious if i should of went thicker head gasket? Maybe im overthinking lol
 
No, you're not over thinking it. That is getting down to the minimum piston-to-head clearance I personally would run. The local circle trackers have run down to .025" at the least but not regularly it got on the margin of impacts when things got worn. I have put in a slightly thicker head gasket before with .005" out of the hole..... but that was for someone who I knew would never take care of the engine and would not take notice of any rapping sound from the engine ! So he got some extra margin LOL.
 
nm9stheham said:
No, you're not over thinking it. That is getting down to the minimum piston-to-head clearance I personally would run. The local circle trackers have run down to .025" at the least but not regularly it got on the margin of impacts when things got worn. I have put in a slightly thicker head gasket before with .005" out of the hole..... but that was for someone who I knew would never take care of the engine and would not take notice of any rapping sound from the engine ! So he got some extra margin LOL.
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Yeah im just thinking on it ao .039-.005 im at .034 so just thinking if im alright or possibly pulling heada off and putting something thicker on
 
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That is considered safe from all I have every read/heard. I've run a few thousandths more, but I tend to not want to not worry over it even with long term wear etc. Your next step up is either a Cometic gasket at .045" (but you milled surfaces may not be quite right for an MLS gasket) or the standard kit Felpro 8553PT at about .050". The thicker you make it, the less effective the squish/quench action gets. Going to the thicker Felpro will lower static CR by about 0.2 points.
 
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