It's been so long since I built this thing I can't remember.I'd have to look. But I'm pretty sure it is a 4 pin. Every Orange box I've seen is a 4 pin.
My 340 in my 66 developed issues :-(
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I think you might be right.........I haven't run one for over a decade;probably switched in 2002, so maybe as long ago as 14 years.....
Oh yeah I remember now; I installed the dual ballast harness cuz if I puked an Orange box, I could still run any 5-pinner out there in an emergency, to get me home from 500 miles away.
OP, sorry
Oh yeah I remember now; I installed the dual ballast harness cuz if I puked an Orange box, I could still run any 5-pinner out there in an emergency, to get me home from 500 miles away.
OP, sorry
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Not to influence you here (or suggest GM parts - I know folks are a bit sensitive about it), but since your Valiant is from the points era, you might want to try running a GM HEI ECU hidden under your distributor with a Designed2Drive adapter. The HEI unit lets you run a low-resistance coil and open your plug gaps a bit wider for a hotter spark.
Best bit is that the combo hides under the distributor so well that it'll look like you're still running points:
I left the ballast resistor on the firewall in my build, but soldered in a solid wire between the tangs. (EDIT: Don't do this with a stock system).
-Kurt
Best bit is that the combo hides under the distributor so well that it'll look like you're still running points:
I left the ballast resistor on the firewall in my build, but soldered in a solid wire between the tangs. (EDIT: Don't do this with a stock system).
-Kurt
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65 Mopar
66 Ficks
Not to influence you here (or suggest GM parts - I know folks are a bit sensitive about it), but since your Valiant is from the points era, you might want to try running a GM HEI ECU hidden under your distributor with a Designed2Drive adapter. The HEI unit lets you run a low-resistance coil and open your plug gaps a bit wider for a hotter spark.
Best bit is that the combo hides under the distributor so well that it'll look like you're still running points:
I left the ballast resistor on the firewall in my build, but soldered in a solid wire between the tangs.
-Kurt
Thanks for the idea Kurt!
For now though I'm going to stay with what I've got. I have to many irons in the fire as it is.. But I am intrigued on how your system works? What wires go to the HEI pickup?
65 Mopar
66 Ficks
Sgbarracuda, this was an excellent read! But it does not tell me why the ballast is necessary? I'm still unclear on why it's needed?
the ignition system will fail if it's given a full 12v. The ballast reduces the voltage(9v?) while running, but is bypassed for a full 12v during starting.
if you bypass it, the coil runs hot and will fail, and if you are running points, they will **** the bed real quick.
This is with period correct parts.. You bypass it if you upgrade to the various forms of HEI's available
if you bypass it, the coil runs hot and will fail, and if you are running points, they will **** the bed real quick.
This is with period correct parts.. You bypass it if you upgrade to the various forms of HEI's available
65 Mopar
66 Ficks
Good explanation, thanks! I am going to keep my ignition as is for now but I am curious if switching it around would make a noticeable difference? Or if it's more reliable..
Here's the wiring diagram. Doesn't get easier than this:
And here's the adapter. Very affordable too: Mopar HEI Conversion
-Kurt
65 Mopar
66 Ficks
I just received my coil and I don't know if I can run it without the ballast? It's a MSD blaster 2 coil p/n 8202?
This modification seems cheap to do, I'm just unsure if my new coil will work.
The article I just read above says you need 1.0 + ohms if you want to get away from the ballast, the blaster 2 is at .7
This modification seems cheap to do, I'm just unsure if my new coil will work.
The article I just read above says you need 1.0 + ohms if you want to get away from the ballast, the blaster 2 is at .7
65 Mopar
66 Ficks
65 Mopar
66 Ficks
Then it only makes sense to keep what I have because I wouldn't get the 12v??
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you'll be fine using that MSD Blaster plug-and-play to the original system.
-Kurt
65 Mopar
66 Ficks
Without the ballast your saying..? Then I'd get the consistent 12v - what I was reading in the article the ballast only gives 12v at startup then it drops the voltage to 9v...
With the ballast to provide a buffer of current for the canister coil. See: what is the purpose of a ballast resistor? | Moparts Question and Answer | Moparts Forums
-Kurt
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65 Mopar
66 Ficks
One more problem to deal with.., I was told when I bought the car it had a 727 trans, so I purchased a 2500 stall for a 727. Fast forward...
I dropped my trans off to have it built the other day...well the guy at the shop calls me this morning and tells me what it's going to cost and By the way Kevin, it is not a 727 it's a 904!!
So now I just got done running around returning the stall I bought and reordering one for the 904..
Any of you guys have feedback on the 904 you wouldn't mind sharing? I've done a little reading on it and it sounds like a good transmission but the 727 is a little stronger. I really hope it will hold up...
I dropped my trans off to have it built the other day...well the guy at the shop calls me this morning and tells me what it's going to cost and By the way Kevin, it is not a 727 it's a 904!!
So now I just got done running around returning the stall I bought and reordering one for the 904..
Any of you guys have feedback on the 904 you wouldn't mind sharing? I've done a little reading on it and it sounds like a good transmission but the 727 is a little stronger. I really hope it will hold up...
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
I think most prefer the 904 because its lighter and can be built equally as strong as the 727. I'm pretty sure they are identical, just smaller parts?
Here is a thread 727 vs. 904???
On your coil, it should say on the box either to for use with external or internal resistance.
65 Mopar
66 Ficks
It says to run with the ballast. I'm going to run it this way and later when things free up a bit maybe I'll revisit this. Right now every time I turn around I'm spending money.. But it is cheap enough to do and I will keep it on the back burner..
65 Mopar
66 Ficks
65 Mopar
66 Ficks
65 Mopar
66 Ficks
The heads were both milled and the deck was dropped .020 each side... I think what the issue was was I used the cheaper fell pro head gaskets. IDK... That's what I'm thinking anyway..
When I tore it down again and replaced the head gaskets, I used the high performance felpro head gasket p/n 1008
It has a few hundred miles on it now and no issues, I wish I wouldn't have cheaped out and got the other head gaskets...
65 Mopar
66 Ficks
This is for Gil, the guy who built my right exhaust manifold..
The manifold worked great! The down pipe on the right worked well for my 66 Plymouth! The left side down pipe needed a custom exhaust shop to fabricate a down pipe from scratch.
The manifold worked great! The down pipe on the right worked well for my 66 Plymouth! The left side down pipe needed a custom exhaust shop to fabricate a down pipe from scratch.
Good head gaskets? You have a head surface or deck that ain't flat. If they were installed properly, torqued properly, it ain't the gaskets fault.
65 Mopar
66 Ficks
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