70DartMike
Too many projects
Subscribed. That's what I want to do with my 67 Barracuda eventually. Finding a 4 speed around here is the difficult part..
My '68 Fastback 4 speed swap
- Thread starter mopardude318
- Start date
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Get that welder out and install the z-bar reinforcing bracket!!!
Since you have the motor out, you might want to check your bell housing alignment. I did this on my factory 4-speed Challenger and found it out of tolerance alot. I had to have the factory dowel pins pulled out of the 440 so I could install 0.014" offset pins to correct the crank run out.
If it's out alot, it'll be hard to shift and add extra wear to the input shaft bearing.
Attach a dial indicator to the crank flange and set the needle to follow the inside of the trans bearing retainer hole. Have a helper rotate the engine over slowly with a breaker bar and socket on the damper nut while watching the dial indicator swing thru it's range and note the position of the min and max points. Write down the min and max numbers and subtract. That's your run out.
If it's out alot, it'll be hard to shift and add extra wear to the input shaft bearing.
Attach a dial indicator to the crank flange and set the needle to follow the inside of the trans bearing retainer hole. Have a helper rotate the engine over slowly with a breaker bar and socket on the damper nut while watching the dial indicator swing thru it's range and note the position of the min and max points. Write down the min and max numbers and subtract. That's your run out.
OKAY, Just for you Rob...I painted the bellhousing!!!
Got the pedals installed. For some odd reason, they were a PITA to get in! Removed the steering column, and everything else in the way.
Noticed there were 2 different kinds of clutch fork adjusting rod hardware. I think I like the top unit better, sits in the recess of the clutch fork nicely.
Got the pedals installed. For some odd reason, they were a PITA to get in! Removed the steering column, and everything else in the way.
Noticed there were 2 different kinds of clutch fork adjusting rod hardware. I think I like the top unit better, sits in the recess of the clutch fork nicely.
Just trying to help you out from an "I'm not colorblind" perspective. Now you won't have that baby blue bellhousing sticking out like a sore thumb behind that nice orange engine.
I agree it looks better. 
So...I'm installing the trans onto the engine as of now. I lubed the roller pilot bearing and crank register with marine grease. I've read to use no grease on the input splines of the transmission. True? Install it dry, or a very light film, or that dry graphite...
what say you.
So...I'm installing the trans onto the engine as of now. I lubed the roller pilot bearing and crank register with marine grease. I've read to use no grease on the input splines of the transmission. True? Install it dry, or a very light film, or that dry graphite...
what say you.
Well, it's in and done, as far as the installation goes. I changed out the slip yoke and installed new solid U-joints.
With the clutch engaged, I have about a 1/16" to an 1/8" from the clutch disc to the flywheel, about about an 1/8" to 3/16" from the throwout bearing to the 3 clutch fingers when the clutch isn't engaged.
This pic is probably worthless.
The clutch linkage and Z-bar all work together very nicely. Not too harsh of a pedal feel at all. The TTI Z-bar clears the TTI headers, no mods had to be made, it all went together.
Now I just have to test it! I gotta finish up a few things and I'll let yall know how everything works.
With the clutch engaged, I have about a 1/16" to an 1/8" from the clutch disc to the flywheel, about about an 1/8" to 3/16" from the throwout bearing to the 3 clutch fingers when the clutch isn't engaged.
This pic is probably worthless.
The clutch linkage and Z-bar all work together very nicely. Not too harsh of a pedal feel at all. The TTI Z-bar clears the TTI headers, no mods had to be made, it all went together.
Now I just have to test it! I gotta finish up a few things and I'll let yall know how everything works.
Is there supposed to be a nut on both sides of the of the rod where it goes through the clutch fork? I only put a lock on the engine side of mine. Just curous if mine is right or wrong or if it even matters.
SirDan
Well-Known Member
Its not going to hurt anything to have it, But if you have the spring on the clutch fork you really don't need it.
mopar head
DoD Alien/Squatch slayer
Where did you find your top pic clutch adjuster rod? thanks
I'm not really sure what's supposed to be correct. I liked the design of the beveled piece that fits in the recess of the fork better. It happened to come with a nut on the other side, so I guess it may be right...? lol
BEA Parts was the only place I could find that sold them in this configuration...Brewers, Year One, Mr Moparts ETC all had the other kind...
http://www.beaparts.com/list_items.aspx?body=A&cat=E&subcat=28
is this a shifter tunnel? where did you get that from? Changing to an A833 next winter; Would I need that if mine originally had a 3 on the tree.
View attachment IMG_0533_zps11ee379c.jpg
View attachment IMG_0533_zps11ee379c.jpg
That is a 4 speed shift tunnel, available new directly from Auto Metal Direct, or summit racing who is a dealer for AMD, also Jeff @ 521 restorations sell them & offers a discount to FABO members.
Yes, you would need that. You can get the shift boot and bezel from Brewers, Passon, etc.
Yes, you would need that. You can get the shift boot and bezel from Brewers, Passon, etc.
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