My brand new radiator... destroyed.
- Thread starter MopaR&D
- Start date
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j par
Well-hung Member
Don't wear a frown.. CHAIN IT DOWN!.
Out of all the old school crap I've tried and/or done the chain not only has worked seemingly very well, but gets tons of notoriety...
FYI scrap metal.. FREE....
Out of all the old school crap I've tried and/or done the chain not only has worked seemingly very well, but gets tons of notoriety...
FYI scrap metal.. FREE....
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I guess I don't get it? I don't see how a motor mount failure can do that unless the fan spacing is just too close to the radiator.
I've always run spool mounts and never had any of the issues y'all mention.
I've always run spool mounts and never had any of the issues y'all mention.
Cope
Fusing with fire
Well my engine even being balanced to less than a half gram on all rotating parts shakes A LOT...
But I do have a 107 LSA cam with lots of over lap...
You can see it go tight against the mount when I stall it up a bit. I'm not sure where the movement comes from as I have frame ties and a 12 point cage. (And the one solid mount on drives side.)
But I do have a 107 LSA cam with lots of over lap...
You can see it go tight against the mount when I stall it up a bit. I'm not sure where the movement comes from as I have frame ties and a 12 point cage. (And the one solid mount on drives side.)
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
73 up spool mounts with soft polyurethane. Wont move forward under hard acceleration, wont pull out. But i do have pix of this for a LH biscuit mount. Looks like a clean solution and vibration free.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
I forgot to mention the fan spacing wasn't good either. What actually caused the fan blade to bend was it hit the bottom edge of the upper tank before cutting into the core; there's a noticeable gash in the tank from where it hit, about 1/2" long. I have another factory viscous-drive fan but the clutch is too thick and hits the rad core; I'm going to swap the fan itself onto the current clutch which is still fine and add a washer or 2 on the back side to space it farther back just a hair.
Oh and the motor mount didn't technically "fail", the two biscuit halves are still stuck together but about half of the rubber has torn away from the steel. So basically since getting the new engine in, every time I romped on it the mount would tear a little more and let the engine move a little more over and over until this happened. I was dumb and should have checked it before it would have been so easy, I could feel a weird "thump" when getting on it hard which I now figured out was the engine falling back down on the k-frame. Oh well, 20/20 hindsight and all, once I get everything fixed and back together I am definitely going to test out the new mount with the hood open and load the engine up against the converter to watch how much it moves.
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
when I rebuilt my 340 and swapped it into my '64 Dart, I wanted to know if something was going to break right now. So I took it around the corner and dropped the hammer on it. Well, there was a helluva commotion. There was noise and rubber smoke, but also a bunch of steam. So I coasted over to the curb, and popped the hood. The original 10yo Lt motor mount biscuit had separated and the engine jumped up and over and the fan cut the upper rad hose like a knife, LOL. I drove it back home, put a new rubber biscuit in it, and put a short length of chain on the front of the engine, and it's been good ever since. That was 45 yrs ago.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
I'll try the solid driver side mount first, if it's too harsh I think I'll try a chain-strap.
When I first got my Duster it had a broken motor mount, I wrapped chain around the mount bracket and k-member which worked but it looked like sh*t.
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Looks pretty dang solid to me... Shaking at idle I don't care about, anything with a decent cam isn't going to purr smooth like a kitten at idle including my engine. I'll be annoyed if I feel vibrations while driving down the road, that's the only vibration I'm concerned with.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
I wouldn’t use a solid mount...
Cope
Fusing with fire
No vibrations while driving, at least that I can feel?
Heres a shot of my home made motor mount.
Thanks, and yeah. She runs pretty good.
Although I think your trans mount may have let go. That's why it moved forward.
Engine mounts controller mostly side to side. The trans mount holds it from moving forward.
I've been running the one solid mount for a few years and I'm not easy on the engine.
That's not to say it wont tear a hole in the block on the next hard hit....
Heres a shot of my home made motor mount.
Thanks, and yeah. She runs pretty good.
Although I think your trans mount may have let go. That's why it moved forward.
Engine mounts controller mostly side to side. The trans mount holds it from moving forward.
I've been running the one solid mount for a few years and I'm not easy on the engine.
That's not to say it wont tear a hole in the block on the next hard hit....
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I put the Morosso solid mounts on my 69. I really can't tell it vibrates or shakes more than with the rubber mounts.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Or you can just run a countersunk bolt through the stock mount with a nylock nut. It'll dampen some of the vibrations, but act as a solid mount when you lay the hammer down.
j par
Well-hung Member
j par
Well-hung Member
What did you have some old rusty chain that was too long and hanging down on a broken motor mount?
A408Cuda
Well-Known Member
Shumacher has blow proof motor mounts. A "C" shaped bracket with a flat plate sandwiched in the "C" and both surrounded by neoprene. All the benefits of a soft biscuit mount without the shaking of a solid mount. I like 'em.
Shouldn't need a lot of clearance. 1/2" to the core is cutting it close but should be OK. Fan tip to top tank is the other place to watch for - any slop in the clutch unit plus the forces on the blade are all encouraging them to go forward. With a '70 body, it should have enough room for the MP viscous clutch and the 5 blade fan on the aluminum pump. The damaged fan in the photo looks like its for an earlier tank. Check the verticle measurements - the slightly smaller diameter fan (like MP 5 blade unit) might be better fit.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I took a mount and sawed one bolt off and drilled it out. Put a carriage bolt all the way through and welded the head a little to keep it from turning. So now I have one bolt that goes all the way through the mount, but the engine weight is still on the rubber. Works great, no vibration and it will never break.
A408Cuda
Well-Known Member
I welded a tab on the top mount that curves down and goes under the lower mount tab about 1/4" of twist and it hits the metal on the lower mount, cant go anywhere.
I was thinking some cable might even look relatively cool hooked up right.
The point of the cable or chain or interlocking mount is to keep the engine from going wildly off the rails should a mount fail saving radiators and other parts.
(that being said, if you have excess HP, strut rods or other solid mounting is probably a necessity.)
The point of the cable or chain or interlocking mount is to keep the engine from going wildly off the rails should a mount fail saving radiators and other parts.
(that being said, if you have excess HP, strut rods or other solid mounting is probably a necessity.)
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
If you are worried about vibration, you can take some very thin .125 inch) belting and lay it underneath the solid mount. This will soak up some of the vibration.
BUT!!!! Note that like all rubber it will cold flow. Which means that you'll need to keep an eye on it for a bit and keep tightening up the nut that holds the mount on until it stops coming loose.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
SO what actual fan/radiator clearance did you have. MP recommends 3/4". Would that have even been enough?
A little hard to make out but I use a 3/16" X 1" strap besides the biscuit on my 440. Attached at water pump and k-member....
Here's mine (74 Challenger) 1/8"x1" stainless flat bar bent and twisted. Bolted to head where the battery ground strap is and to the subframe under the battery. Used this same style in the 90's on a 72 340 duster for speed that went mid 12's at 108
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