My Dart Swinger Project!

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Clean is the most tedious job of bringing a dead car back to life.
I have multiple sandblasters, but found a guy about 20 minutes from my house, bring him a pile of parts to blast, it only costs $40.
Plus a mile or so from him is the best butcher around, fresh county sausage, and burger way cheaper than the store.

Going to see my blast buddy tomorrow, to do a set of slot rims I picked up cheap. If I can get the last #%^[\# bolt out of one center cap.
 
sireland67 said:
Clean is the most tedious job of bringing a dead car back to life.
I have multiple sandblasters, but found a guy about 20 minutes from my house, bring him a pile of parts to blast, it only costs $40.
Plus a mile or so from him is the best butcher around, fresh county sausage, and burger way cheaper than the store.

Going to see my blast buddy tomorrow, to do a set of slot rims I picked up cheap. If I can get the last #%^[\# bolt out of one center cap.
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I have a little sandblaster i made a homemade cabinet for it works pretty good but my compressor has a hard time keeping up on big parts. Smaller parts like bolt heads and stuff like that it does great on. I sandblasted that timing cover then gave it a good bath in dawn and hot water.
 
318willrun said:
Wont be long and we'll be hearing "Drivers, start your engines!"
:thumbsup:
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Yea I'm getting so close I can taste it! I'm getting super nervous about the break in tho. And I'm seriously reconsidering using manifolds instead of headers I just have a feeling those headers I have are gonna be a pita every step of the way and I'm not sure it's worth the 10 -15 hp! Not to mention Im wanting a factory original look.
 
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dartfreak75 said:
Yea I'm getting so close I can taste it! I'm getting super nervous about the break in tho. And I'm seriously reconsidering using manifolds instead of headers I just have a feeling those headers I have are gonna be a pita every step of the way and I'm not sure it's worth the 10 -15 hp! Not to mention I wanting a factory original look.
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First off screw the factory original look! Lol.. second if it's going to run its going to run and don't worry about it. It ain't going to make it run any better or any worse just make you lose the precious hair that you do have... Make sure you use remflex gaskets for the headers. They're about 36 bucks but never leak and don't give you problems.... Factory original oh brother:rolleyes:..
 
j par said:
First off screw the factory original look! Lol.. second if it's going to run its going to run and don't worry about it. It ain't going to make it run any better or any worse just make you lose the precious hair that you do have... Make sure you use remflex gaskets for the headers. They're about 36 bucks but never leak and don't give you problems.... Factory original oh brother:rolleyes:..
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Well my whole thing with this car is for it to look original remember that's why I didn't want to do the magnum swap. I like original I like the way cars looked in the 70s when they were new.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Well my whole thing with this car is for it to look original remember that's why I didn't want to do the magnum swap. I like original I like the way cars looked in the 70s when they were new.
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well the first thing I would have done if I bought one no was put headers on it LOL... Your money your way...:thumbsup:...
 
j par said:
well the first thing I would have done if I bought one no was put headers on it LOL... Your money your way...:thumbsup:...
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Haha yea I agree that was why I was gonna use them but now I'm not sure if it's worth the headache
 
j par said:
What headache?..
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1, getting them to fit
2 keeping them from scraping and rusting out
3 keeping them from leaking
4 changing spark plugs
5 making the ones I have look presentable
I cleaned them and painted them and they still look like crap
 
dartfreak75 said:
1, getting them to fit
2 keeping them from scraping and rusting out
3 keeping them from leaking
4 changing spark plugs
5 making the ones I have look presentable
I cleaned them and painted them and they still look like crap
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1. You put them in ahead of time and hang them from a coat hanger wire on both sides waiting for the engine to come in between...
2. don't let your front end get drop down like a lowrider put it up where it's supposed to be stalked and they won't drag. I've never hit my headers once and I have the cheap Summit headers... When you see a railroad track or something like that coming don't speed up!...
3. I told you use remflex gaskets they don't leak ever tighten them once and forget them...
4. Don't change the spark plugs why the engine is hot first of all LOL and the only two spark plugs that are remotely hard to get to are the 5 and 7 and if you buy the correct 5/8 spark plug socket with a universal joint on the end of it and 5/8 spark plugs it's not that much of a chore and really with a brand new motor how often are you thinking you're going to change the spark plugs?...
5. not trying to save or spend your money of course but they are $179 brand new to your door from Summit. Also one thing that I did to make mine look presentable was to do the heat wrap. Done carefully and correctly they look pretty good.. and take heat out as well but unless you get some amazing Amazon deal on the stuff it ends up being half the price of just buying new ones...
Remember you only really see the top and some of the sides of them and the rest is just tucked under the car...
Again your money your way I'm just sayin...
 
j par said:
1. You put them in ahead of time and hang them from a coat hanger wire on both sides waiting for the engine to come in between...
2. don't let your front end get drop down like a lowrider put it up where it's supposed to be stalked and they won't drag. I've never hit my headers once and I have the cheap Summit headers... When you see a railroad track or something like that coming don't speed up!...
3. I told you use remflex gaskets they don't leak ever tighten them once and forget them...
4. Don't change the spark plugs why the engine is hot first of all LOL and the only two spark plugs that are remotely hard to get to are the 5 and 7 and if you buy the correct 5/8 spark plug socket with a universal joint on the end of it and 5/8 spark plugs it's not that much of a chore and really with a brand new motor how often are you thinking you're going to change the spark plugs?...
5. not trying to save or spend your money of course but they are $179 brand new to your door from Summit. Also one thing that I did to make mine look presentable was to do the heat wrap. Done carefully and correctly they look pretty good.. and take heat out as well but unless you get some amazing Amazon deal on the stuff it ends up being half the price of just buying new ones...
Remember you only really see the top and some of the sides of them and the rest is just tucked under the car...
Again your money your way I'm just sayin...
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My biggest concern with the plugs is after break in I'm gonna have to pull them to remove the valve springs to put the inner springs in the valve springs. I'm gonna use my homemade valve spring compressor and I'm gonna have to put some rope or something in the hole to keep the valves up. I just foresee that being a real pita with headers. I have a set but they are old and crappy they actually need a lot of work inside the ports. There is alot of weld slang there is even wire in there from the mig welder haha I actually looked at new ones from summit and they have a "temporary" coating that burns off then you have to recoat them which I find absolutely ridiculous. So you have to install them run them long enough to burn the paint off then take them back off to paint them? Wtf not just ship them bear metal?
 
Idk I will probably just go ahead with the headers now if I dont like them I can always swap for manifolds later. I'm sure it will be alot easier to take them off if I dont want them than to put them in if I do. Worse comes to worse and I hate them I will cut them out 6 inches at a time so I dont have to disassemble my suspenders again lol
 
dartfreak75 said:
Idk I will probably just go ahead with the headers now if I dont like them I can always swap for manifolds later. I'm sure it will be alot easier to take them off if I dont want them than to put them in if I do. Worse comes to worse and I hate them I will cut them out 6 inches at a time so I dont have to disassemble my suspenders again lol
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I've cut a crappy set of headers out before.. I ran my first set of headers with just that paint that they says is not permanent for a couple of years. It doesn't burn off. I think it's just a primer or something to protect it from rusting.. likely you could just clean that really well and high heat paint over it.. I ran them with that cheap Factory pain for about 3 years till I wrap them for a couple... I swear if you get the right socket for that 5- 7 spark plug it's not as hard as you think... the other six are extremely simple I mean do I have to go take a picture? is this something you have personal experience with or just listening to the gurus out here who want the Cyber spend your money into buying expensive headers..??
 
j par said:
I've cut a crappy set of headers out before.. I ran my first set of headers with just that paint that they says is not permanent for a couple of years. It doesn't burn off. I think it's just a primer or something to protect it from rusting.. likely you could just clean that really well and high heat paint over it.. I ran them with that cheap Factory pain for about 3 years till I wrap them for a couple... I swear if you get the right socket for that 5- 7 spark plug it's not as hard as you think... the other six are extremely simple I mean do I have to go take a picture? is this something you have personal experience with or just listening to the gurus out here who want the Cyber spend your money into buying expensive headers..??
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No I have no experience with headers. I have seen them on other people's cars and it just looks like a pain to work on anything. They take up all of what little room is in there to begin with
 
dartfreak75 said:
Yea I'm getting so close I can taste it! I'm getting super nervous about the break in tho. And I'm seriously reconsidering using manifolds instead of headers I just have a feeling those headers I have are gonna be a pita every step of the way and I'm not sure it's worth the 10 -15 hp! Not to mention Im wanting a factory original look.
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  • Break in will go smooth, just make sure you have it full of coolant, fan hooked up (shroud would be great) and maybe a box fan sitting in front of the radiator. Use a known-good carb for the break in. Have it fire up, and keep it between 2k-2800. If something leaks or it starts to overheat, shut it down. Fix and keep going.
  • As for the headers, I went manifolds after years of dealing with the cheapies and said i was done with the header thing, just wanted a nice driver. But, as you know, I bought Dougs and never been sorry. Fit is great as well as the install, they are on top the drag link, and access to the plugs are better than manifolds.
 
318willrun said:
  • Break in will go smooth, just make sure you have it full of coolant, fan hooked up (shroud would be great) and maybe a box fan sitting in front of the radiator. Use a known-good carb for the break in. Have it fire up, and keep it between 2k-2800. If something leaks or it starts to overheat, shut it down. Fix and keep going.
  • As for the headers, I went manifolds after years of dealing with the cheapies and said i was done with the header thing, just wanted a nice driver. But, as you know, I bought Dougs and never been sorry. Fit is great as well as the install, they are on top the drag link, and access to the plugs are better than manifolds.
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I'm good on the carb I had @Dana build my thermoquad for me it's ready to go! It turned out great btw I need to post some pics and show it off!
I'm gonna be ordering a champion radiator so I should be good on the overheating thing. My biggest concern getting it going and keeping it going without messing with the timing idk how I'm gonna do all that by myself. I may get a friend to come by and just I control the throttle for me while I'm inspecting everything. I have been reading my book I have and I'm getting some mixed information from the book he says to unhook the coil and crank the engine over to prime the fuel and oil pump then start it up and get the rpms to 2000 isnt cranking on a new cam exactly what you dont want to do?
 
Sounds unnecessary to unhook the coil. That’s what the cam lube is for. I would however, recommend buying the cheap oil priming tool. You can prime your oil system just prior to start up to ensure you got instant oil pressure. I think I paid 17 bucks at summit.
 
You def want to pre-prime the engine oil passages with a priming tool. $14 at Summit.
Mopar Performance Oil Pump Priming Shafts P4286800
I also spun my rotating assembly by hand while priming.
Hughes has a great read on break-in and distributor setup for first fire start on advance position to insure a start on the first couple cranks if all else is good. It’s near the end of the article but the whole thing is worth a good read.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/camshaft_instructions_Mar20.pdf
It’s exactly how I did mine and it went off without a hitch. I was by myself and a little nervous about it being the first one I’d ever done but all went well and that engine runs fantastically. I Made a written checklist and double checked everything.
I also had rusty old headers on it at the time. I’ve since swapped them out to manifolds.
Good luck. You’ll be fine.
 
It is however a magnum.

A52EA801-8028-48CF-9B18-5DE1C1A445A1.jpeg
 
67dartgtgo said:
You def want to pre-prime the engine oil passages with a priming tool. $14 at Summit.
Mopar Performance Oil Pump Priming Shafts P4286800
I also spun my rotating assembly by hand while priming.
Hughes has a great read on break-in and distributor setup for first fire start on advance position to insure a start on the first couple cranks if all else is good. It’s near the end of the article but the whole thing is worth a good read.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/camshaft_instructions_Mar20.pdf
It’s exactly how I did mine and it went off without a hitch. I was by myself and a little nervous about it being the first one I’d ever done but all went well and that engine runs fantastically. I Made a written checklist and double checked everything.
I also had rusty old headers on it at the time. I’ve since swapped them out to manifolds.
Good luck. You’ll be fine.
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Awesome read! That's a huge help I downloaded it as a pdf for future reference! Thank you
 
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