My Dart Swinger Project!

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67/6barracuda said:
Sounds unnecessary to unhook the coil. That’s what the cam lube is for. I would however, recommend buying the cheap oil priming tool. You can prime your oil system just prior to start up to ensure you got instant oil pressure. I think I paid 17 bucks at summit.
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Yes I have ordered the pump primer tool I had no plans to crank on the engine to prime it I just think it's odd that i read that in a book after getting all the information I have from here saying not to blindly crank on a new engine
 
easy way to prim the carb. get a cheep squeeze bottle at the store and put a couple oz of gas in it. hook a short piece of hose to the carb and use the bottle to add gas. you don't need much. you could also add a little to the line from the pump to the carb, but i've never had an issue with that if the pump is good.
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dartfreak75 said:
Yes I have ordered the pump primer tool I had no plans to crank on the engine to prime it I just think it's odd that i read that in a book after getting all the information I have from here saying not to blindly crank on a new engine
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ya, you don't want to over do it and wipe off the assembly lube too early. also
make sure you install the drivers side galley plug that does not reach all the way to the back of the block. if not you'll see pressure at the gauge, but it will be very low.
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HERE'S an older thread about oil plugs
 
kursplat said:
easy way to prim the carb. get a cheep squeeze bottle at the store and put a couple oz of gas in it. hook a short piece of hose to the carb and use the bottle to add gas. you don't need much. you could also add a little to the line from the pump to the carb, but i've never had an issue with that if the pump is good.
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ya, you don't want to over do it and wipe off the assembly lube too early. also
make sure you install the drivers side galley plug that does not reach all the way to the back of the block. if not you'll see pressure at the gauge, but it will be very low. View attachment 1715587747
HERE'S an older thread about oil plugs
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Yea that plug is one I forgot to remove. I'm gonna remove it and clean it out really good and put it back in. I received the brush kit in the mail today that you recommended. Hopefully on my first day off I can get to cleaning on the block. I managed to get my oil pan cleaned after work today its ready for primer. Here is the timing cover and intake. I will take some better pics of the oil pan tomorrow

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dartfreak75 said:
Yes I have ordered the pump primer tool I had no plans to crank on the engine to prime it I just think it's odd that i read that in a book after getting all the information I have from here saying not to blindly crank on a new engine
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Two different things, priming the oil pump, all you are doing is spinning the oil pump, cranking the engine you are rolling the entire assy with the starter.

Yes cheap headers are a pain on a Mopar, unless its a quality set, or on a truck, cheap headers basically install them-selfs on a truck.
 
Found a set of magnum manifolds for 35 bucks I'm gonna buy them and try them out. I have a set but there still on the engine for 35 bucks its worth not taking the other ones off and having a extra set

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sireland67 said:
Two different things, priming the oil pump, all you are doing is spinning the oil pump, cranking the engine you are rolling the entire assy with the starter.

Yes cheap headers are a pain on a Mopar, unless its a quality set, or on a truck, cheap headers basically install them-selfs on a truck.
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Yea I know but why would you want to turn the entire assembly just to prime the oil when you can just pump the oil with the drill?
 
You have to rotate the engine by hand, to oil both sides of the rockers.
At TDC one side of the rockers will have oil flowing thru them, then you have to rotate the engine to get the other side to oil.
 
sireland67 said:
You have to rotate the engine by hand, to oil both sides of the rockers.
At TDC one side of the rockers will have oil flowing thru them, then you have to rotate the engine to get the other side to oil.
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Oh ok I got you. So what's your opinion on cranking the engine over with the starter before break in? Should I turn it by hand and prime the pump or just crank it with the starter?
 
dartfreak75 said:
Oh ok I got you. So what's your opinion on cranking the engine over with the starter before break in? Should I turn it by hand and prime the pump or just crank it with the starter?
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Turn it by hand, they make a crank turning socket, so you do not strip the bolt out in the end of the crank.
It slides over the crank snout with the balancer off.
 
sireland67 said:
Turn it by hand, they make a crank turning socket, so you do not strip the bolt out in the end of the crank.
It slides over the crank snout with the balancer off.
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Thanks bud! I'm assuming you do this with the valve covers off so you can watch for oil I'm the rockers?
 
I always do, but you could look thru the oil cap or breather hole.
 
After priming with a drill, remove all the plugs, reinstall the distributor, then crank the engine with the starter. With the plugs removed, it just free-spins and there is very little stress on the main/rod bearings and rings.
 
And either add a oil pressure gauge, or the old sending unit by the distributor.
The last 340 I primed, I oiled the celing down in the garage, when oil shot out.
Big mess.
 
sireland67 said:
And either add a oil pressure gauge, or the old sending unit by the distributor.
The last 340 I primed, I oiled the celing down in the garage, when oil shot out.
Big mess.
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I plan on putting a oil pressure gauge, water temperature gauge, and tach all on the outside so I can keep and eye on all of it from the outside during break in. That way I can watch for leaks control the throttle and keep an eye on the gauges without getting in and out of the car.
 
Got the oil pan primed! I finally have a day off tomorrow I'm gonna try and work on getting the engine block cleaned and oiled up really good and hopefully start putting it back together. Its gonna be a complicated process without a garage or shop but I will manage. I'm gonna start a engine build thread to document the reassembly but I will post the process here too.

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Dartfreak75, hey Kevin, FYI that LH magnum exhaust manifold will hit your power steering box. And grinding the manifold down wont make it much better. Your better bet is to find a set of 360 A body exhaust manifolds, or at least just the LH one, and a Jeep grand cherokee RH pass side magnum exhaust manifold since it's a center exiting manifold, and not a rear exiting manifold like the truck magnum is. Will be easier to make pipes fit.
 
Got started on the block today I got it all cleaned up. A big special thanks to @kursplat and @JDMopar and everyone else that mentioned to clean the block omg couldn't believe the crap that came out of the oil passages I'm so glad I bought those brushes and cleaned them out. They were nasty. I cleaned everything and wiped it down with kroil oil. And got one side one side of my freeze plugs in and it started to rain so I had to move it back inside. Yea I'm keeping my engine in my spare room haha my wife isnt real happy about it but I dont have anywhere else. I need a garage!

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looking good. the only difference between a house and garage is where you and the car sleep.
did you pull the oil filter adapter and clean out behind it?

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edit: never mind, saw the pic with it off :thumbsup:
 
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Clean it, clean it, clean it. And when you thought you cleaned it well, clean it some more. Especially all the oil passages, scrub them, then blow them out. Use clean paper towels when flushing the junk out until you get no dirt on them anymore. I run brake Kleen and mineral spirits thru the passageways with clean paper towels on the collection end to see how much junk I'm getting. That's an awful lot of "coffee grinds" by the front main bearing. Just keep blowing it out and scrubbing with the gun brushes until all of that **** is gone. Can never be too clean. Paper towels are cheap, keep swapping each dirty one out for a clean paper towel every time you flush cleaning solvents thru so you can catch and see what your getting out of the passageways.
 
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kursplat said:
looking good. the only difference between a house and garage is where you and the car sleep.
did you pull the oil filter adapter and clean out behind it?

View attachment 1715589425 edit: never mind, saw the pic with it off :thumbsup:
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Yes sir. Tomorrow im gonna try and get the rest the freeze plugs in and the cam bearings. I have a problem with the rear plugs i cant get to them because of the engine stand. I guess I will have to take it off the stand to get them in
 
moparmat2000 said:
Clean it, clean it, clean it. And when you thought you cleaned it well, clean it some more. Especially all the oil passages, scrub them, then blow them out. Use clean paper towels when flushing the junk out until you get no dirt on them anymore. I run brake Kleen and mineral spirits thru the passageways with clean paper towels on the collection end to see how much junk I'm getting. That's an awful lot of "coffee grinds" by the front main bearing. Just keep blowing it out and scrubbing with the gun brushes until all of that **** is gone. Can never be too clean. Paper towels are cheap, keep swapping each dirty one out for a clean paper towel every time you flush cleaning solvents thru so you can catch and see what your getting out of the passageways.
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Yea i agree thats exactly what im doing lol i scrubbed it with the brush then air then Kroll then scrubbed again then more air. The plan was to do all this at the car wash and then pressure wash it in between scrubbing but tbh i didn't feel like carrying it up those steps again
 
The 2 big questions though are

A. how are you gonna get it off the porch once you assemble it?

B. Can that wood porch handle the weight of an assembled engine on a stand like that?
 
moparmat2000 said:
The 2 big questions though are

A. how are you gonna get it off the porch once you assemble it?

B. Can that wood porch handle the weight of an assembled engine on a stand like that?
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A, im not sure yet i will cross that bridge when i get there haha.
B oh yea i built it very strong its concreted 24 inches into the ground and has 2x6 joists and 3 rows of posts its not going anywhere. The plan is to get all the short block done on the porch so i can take my time and degree the cam and not have to rush anything i can just roll it inside anytime and not have to worry about it getting wet or anything. After the short block is completed and the cam is degreed im ready for final assembly i am gonna back my truck to the steps and i will use my engine hoist to carefully lift it up and drive it off the deck
 
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