My Dart Swinger Project!

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Might be a good idea to rig up a stiff leg on the front of the motor, going down to the engine stand. With the full weight of the engine....if it (engine) bounces coming off the door sill onto the deck, it could break the engine stands neck....and BOOM! :eek:
 
JDMopar said:
Might be a good idea to rig up a stiff leg on the front of the motor, going down to the engine stand. With the full weight of the engine....if it (engine) bounces coming off the door sill onto the deck, it could break the engine stands neck....and BOOM! :eek:
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Thats a idea. To be honest the more stuff I add the more nervous I get.
 
Just have another guy hold the water pump, While you wheel it out. I’m a one man team here do most stuff by myself. I just can’t put a hood on yet alone lol.
 
You should be proud of what you have accomplished. It looks great! And as noted above, I'd add a simple piece of 2x4 wood brace to help support the front of the engine. Simple and safe!
 
Demonx2 said:
You should be proud of what you have accomplished. It looks great! And as noted above, I'd add a simple piece of 2x4 wood brace to help support the front of the engine. Simple and safe!
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Thank you I appreciate that. I am proud and very excited. I have came a long way and im getting so close I can feel it. Where would the best place be to brace it under the crankshaft pulley?
 
kursplat said:
i'm always a little nervous moving them until it's in the car.
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I wasn't even gonna put the head or intake on before i got it in the car but then I got to thinking what if I run into this or that? Its gonna be cramped and hard to maneuver etc plus I don't have a garage and if something happened and I couldn't get it done in a day I'd be stuck with a freshly machined block out open in the elements
 
dartfreak75 said:
I wasn't even gonna put the head or intake on before i got it in the car but then I got to thinking what if I run into this or that? Its gonna be cramped and hard to maneuver etc plus I don't have a garage and if something happened and I couldn't get it done in a day I'd be stuck with a freshly machined block out open in the elements
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ya, i'd button it up first
 
dartfreak75 said:
Thank you I appreciate that. I am proud and very excited. I have came a long way and im getting so close I can feel it. Where would the best place be to brace it under the crankshaft pulley?
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If you have a piece of plywood, maybe 8 or 10 inches wide and 12 to 18 inches long, and a 2 x 4 a few feet long....it would be easy to rig up a prop. Take your pulley off of the harmonic balancer, and lay it bolt holes down on the plywood kinda close to the end of the narrow side. Trace 4 bolt holes 90 degrees apart, and also the balancer bolt hole. Drill out the bolt holes you marked, and use a hole saw big enough to open a hole for the balancer bolt and washer to fit thru. Get 4 bolts long enough to go thru the plywood and snug it up against the balancer. Put the 2 x 4 between the leg on the engine stand and the plywood, and screw them together. If the 2 x 4 had a little upward pressure, it might help....but may not be really necessary. Just another one of my :realcrazy: ideas....lol.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Im gonna roll it out the back door carefully. I have to do the front wheels first. Once I get it on the porch, I'm gonna back the truck up and cherry pick it off the porch.
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Are you friends with any farmer in the area?
Almost every farmer with tractor has a pig-pole that goes on their 3-pt hitch on their tractor, might be safer to take it off that way.
 
Got my transmission finished today. I took it all apart cleaned it, installed the shift improver kit from b&m, adjusted the bands and buttoned everything back up its ready to go. Went ahead and loosely installed the new trans bushing too. Question do I need the big weight on the tail housing? Or can I take that off?

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Also started the wiring today its a mess. This is gonna be alot of work!! Half the stuff that I labeled either fell off or I can no longer read. Or I just can't figure out where it goes. Lol I found a wiring diagram hopefully that will help.

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I came in got warm got me a good meal and headed back out with a flashlight. Sorry forgot to take pictures but I got more of the wiring done. Got the master cylinder bleed and hooked up didn't bleed the lines yet. But I got about 20 percent brakes! I'm not sure if the master bleed properly or not i may end up having to do it again the little plastic fittings that come with the master to use to bleed it started leaking so im sure it was sucking air too. Oh well I will try and bleed the lines later and see if they work if I can't get the air out I will rig something up and re bleed the master.
 
Good new bad news! The good news is I got my battery tray and horn installed got the brakes bleed (sorta) and got some more wiring sorted out. The bad news is I have a million brake line leaks and a stuck bleeder. And the the wiring harness is gonna have to be modified. The coil wires aren't long enough for the v8 with a slant 6 wiring harness im gonna have to make them longer. I think I have enough wire to splice into it and make it work tho. The passenger side bleeder is stuck and I mean stuck like to the point its gonna break off. I guess I will have to replace the caliper on that side im not dealing with trying to break it off remove it drill and tap and all that crap for a caliper! I have several brake leaks i thought they where just bad flares so I took them loose and reflared them and they are still leaking! I got aggravated and cold and decided to quit for the day.

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missing linc said:
You're still making great progress dude, a break might be a good thing for you.
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Its kinda funny because I have always hated dealing with brakes and it seems like they are what always give me trouble! Lol the proportion block the lines are stuck which makes no sense because all that stuff is brand new. And there is a bunch of leaks coming from it too. The master was leaking around the lines looks like I got them fixed the rear drivers is leaking I fixed it but its still leaking. I may pull it all off reflare all of it and try again. I'm pretty sure it's a bad flare because its leaking between the line and fitting. Not the threads
 
Can you mount the coil on the inner fenderwell? My car was born a /6, but a po installed an MSD box, I'm considering returning it to the oe style ignition, I've printed off a wiring diagram and have found the wires (I think) to reconnect the coil, my ecu wiring is still there and functional. I had done a little bit of work on it over the last weekend, but it's gotten cold again and snowed today, so I put it back inside the fence, probably leave it until spring now, too many things to deal with before I can expect to drive it regularly. Still not running properly at this point, low on patience.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Its kinda funny because I have always hated dealing with brakes and it seems like they are what always give me trouble! Lol the proportion block the lines are stuck which makes no sense because all that stuff is brand new. And there is a bunch of leaks coming from it too. The master was leaking around the lines looks like I got them fixed the rear drivers is leaking I fixed it but its still leaking. I may pull it all off reflare all of it and try again. I'm pretty sure it's a bad flare because its leaking between the line and fitting. Not the threads
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I hate doing plumbing in my house, brake lines aren't much different, lol, but I usually get the leaks fixed the second time.
 
missing linc said:
Can you mount the coil on the inner fenderwell? My car was born a /6, but a po installed an MSD box, I'm considering returning it to the oe style ignition, I've printed off a wiring diagram and have found the wires (I think) to reconnect the coil, my ecu wiring is still there and functional. I had done a little bit of work on it over the last weekend, but it's gotten cold again and snowed today, so I put it back inside the fence, probably leave it until spring now, too many things to deal with before I can expect to drive it regularly. Still not running properly at this point, low on patience.
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I guess I could mount it somewhere different
Looks like the wires are coming around where the alternator brackets is. And. They are only about 6 inches long. I may be able to bust open the harness and separate them from the harness without splicing
 
I don’t like brakes myself and brake bleeding. I worked at Uhaul recently and I was the new guy, so they had me changing out all the steel lines on the biggest trucks to stainless. Just take your time and don’t over tighten, the leaks will stop. Your making great progress
 
Dartsun said:
I don’t like brakes myself and brake bleeding. I worked at Uhaul recently and I was the new guy, so they had me changing out all the steel lines on the biggest trucks to stainless. Just take your time and don’t over tighten, the leaks will stop. Your making great progress
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Over tightening is probably my issue because half of them I can't get back off lol :BangHead:
 
dartfreak75 said:
I guess I could mount it somewhere different
Looks like the wires are coming around where the alternator brackets is. And. They are only about 6 inches long. I may be able to bust open the harness and separate them from the harness without splicing
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Yes, you should be able to open the harness up by just peeling back the tape, the 2 wires for the coil as well as all the others will be separate, at least for a ways, they may be wrapped again along the way too. Should have oil pressure sensor wire, temp sensor, possibly electric choke wire too.
 
missing linc said:
Yes, you should be able to open the harness up by just peeling back the tape, the 2 wires for the coil as well as all the others will be separate, at least for a ways, they may be wrapped again along the way too. Should have oil pressure sensor wire, temp sensor, possibly electric choke wire too.
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Yea that's probably what I will try to do.
 
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