Need some help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I'll tell you one thing I have learned; Here in Manitoba getting accurate machine work done is kindof a crap-shoot. Because of that, my next project will have little to no machining work done.I have swapped heads and intakes and blocks around for years and years using virgin Mopar parts and never had a single sealing issue. But it took 4 machine shops to get my block straight enough to be useable, with each one adding their own errors.And that's just the block.The crank and rods were another adventure. It took me a full day to assemble the short-block, with most of the time going to fitting the rods onto the crank, and getting the deck heights reasonably close.
The decking guy cut the decks wrong. They were not at the correct angle to eachother. And they were sloped front to rear. In opposite directions.
The boring guy drilled the holes off the crooked decks..
The line-hone job, put the rear of the crank up into the saddle so far, the neoprene rear main seal, wouldn't seal.
The crank was turned 10/10, but the index was not the same on all of them, so I had some at 3.58stroke and some at less.
The rod lenghths were not the same.
The KB107s were bang on within a couple of tenths.
So just imagine that mess; organize the rods according to length, organize the pistons according to compression heights. Take the longest rod with the shortest piston and map out the holes, using the deck height as the comparitor. Then fit the rods and pistons in there to achieve some semblance of equal deck heights. Then fine tune it. Then re-number the rods.
And the holes are still crooked.
The engine doesn't seem to care tho. She's a streeter. But it still bugs me. There is nothing I can do about the rear mainseal, so in went a ropeseal. Seems to be working;mostly.
Never again. I will order custom pistons to fit my overbored block and make 'em fit, cutting the tops to fit the chambers
No line-hone, no decking, no head or intake shaving. No crank work, no rod resizing.Just boring;thank you very much. I have two 360 cores waiting.
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Anybody need a fully machined 360-40over block, with matching maincaps? I'll palletize it in a big plastic bag. I'll call it a ready-to-go, block-in-a-bag.
'Course Ima kidding. When I finally replace this hummer, I will personally take a sledge-hammer to it. Every blow will bring me immense satisfaction.
BTW, every machine shop said "bring us another block and we'll make it right." ........Um, no!
I forgave them right then and there, so if they burn in the Lake of Fire, it won't be on my account..
Yeah, so I'll be 63 this summer. Blasting around in my S is sorta losing it's appeal, so I might never get to another engine. I gots 2 grandkids now, tho, and maybe a couple more coming, so you never know..............And I still have excellent health.
 
I will report with results by this weekend. Thanks to everyone that pitched in.
 
Well, here is some more info. Pictures are worth a thousand words. That is without a doubt, OIL.
 

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Engine oil or tranny oil?
It looks too dark to be fresh engine oil.

BTW, those chrome necks are almost impossible to seal. If you really want to use it, you will need to machine it dead flat, and open up the T-stat receiving flange. Then you will need to stud the manifold, and the top of the stud needs to be fine thread. Then you will need large,thick,hardened washers and grade 8 self-locking nuts. Do not use loc washers.Fit the washers as may be req'd.Do not overtighten.If you overtighten it, it will warp, and you are back to square one. Use exactly one good quality .030 to .040 gasket(I make my own from that blue stuff), and no sealers.Use a 7psi cap.
That's what worked for me.
 
Doh!
Well you better check what's in the oilpan,(crack the drainplug)
Oil in the cooling system?Hmmmm. In order for this to occur, the oil would have to be at a higher pressure than the cooling system.Since the cap is usually controlling the pressure at 13 to 17 psi, there are only two other sources of higher pressure in the engine; 1) is the oiling system and 2) is cylinder pressure.
If there is no coolant in the oilpan, and the cooling system holds pressure, then IDK. Is there any chance that that is something other than oil?Is the same stuff in the top of the rad?, or in the overflow tank?
BTW; how's it run?
 
Just got back from a short 3 mile drive and saw the oil around the T-stat housing. I just can't win with this thing. I wont let it beat me though. I have another 340 here to transfer all the parts to, if it turns out the block is cracked internally. Would a head gasket cause this. I have in the past had a head gasket blow and leak coolant into the cylinder but never anything like this. The oil on the dipstick looks clear like it should.
 
Just went to open the radiator to take a peek inside and the when I twisted the cap it jumped up in the air. It had pressure behind it and the engine has cooled.
 
See, that black residue, has got to be hydrocarbons, as in burnt combustion byproducts,ie;soot.
If it is oil, it should be in the rad and expansion tank, too; and floating and looking all slimy and gross, and not black, but rather foamy yellow/tan.
 
I looked in the radiator and don't see anything in it. What would be your educated guess? Also, what would be the best plan of attack from here? Just and FYI, the radiator has a 13 lb. cap. I think you may be right about it being soot.
 
-Well, if you combine soot and excessive cooling system pressure, that sounds bad.......
-I guess, at this point I would be pulling the plugs, looking for coolant in the chambers.
-I would be looking for a pressure loss into the cooling system. To that end I would plumb a 100psi guage into the cooling system,using the overflow hose,or,you could use a cooling system pressure tester if you have one.
-And then,I would be doing a leakdown test. I would be doing the LD with the pistons at the top, in the usual way. But if all holes pass, I would switch to doing a second LD, with the pistons at the bottom. This means the valve gear would need to be removed.

-The first test would prove the problem lies above the top ring. The second would prove the problem is in the cylinder wall(s).
-Soot and pressure could enter the cooling system, through a cracked cylinder head, a cracked cylinder wall, and somewhat less likely; a bad headgasket,and least likely insufficient bolt-torque.I have reused FellPros 1009s several times on my 10.7Scr 367cuber, so I have a lot of confidence in those. I have no confidence in the thin Orange ones, (although some here have successfully used them), and the Black ones I know work on stock-compression teeners.
 
If you had residual pressure in the cooling system, then I would not be immediately be suspecting any sort of crack in the the heads or block, or a head gasket issue. I can't see any of those leaving residual pressure.

Buy/rent/borrow a cooling system pressure gauge and cycle the engine to hot and look for pressure pulsations in the coolant pressure, at idle fast, idle and while revving it mildly.

If you have oil in the coolant, it should be obvious as a scummy substance. If the coolant is clear, I would not suspect oil. Have you actually wiped the brown/black gunk off of the t'stat housing area and felt it and smelt it? Is there ANYTHING in the coolant in the rad? I am almost inclined to suspect residual fine rusty material and other crud left in the cooling passages from the block cleaning process in the shop. Seeping out of the t'stat gasket like that and drying might look like that. And the coloration does not strike me as oil, especially form an engine with new oil with a just a few miles.
 
To me, it looks like a coolent leak with perma tex / sealant coloring it dark.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I'll tell you one thing I have learned; Here in Manitoba getting accurate machine work done is kindof a crap-shoot. Because of that, my next project will have little to no machining work done.I have swapped heads and intakes and blocks around for years and years using virgin Mopar parts and never had a single sealing issue. But it took 4 machine shops to get my block straight enough to be useable, with each one adding their own errors.And that's just the block.The crank and rods were another adventure. It took me a full day to assemble the short-block, with most of the time going to fitting the rods onto the crank, and getting the deck heights reasonably close.
The decking guy cut the decks wrong. They were not at the correct angle to eachother. And they were sloped front to rear. In opposite directions. Their fixturing is messed up for this to happen
The boring guy drilled the holes off the crooked decks..It's not drilling its boring and when a deck mounted boring bar is mounted on the deck it could happen but the decks would have to be machined VERY crooked for it to effect the boring job a noticeable amount.
The line-hone job, put the rear of the crank up into the saddle so far, the neoprene rear main seal, wouldn't seal. Again it had to have been align bored for it to be this far off. Did you fit aftermarket 4 bolt caps? This is the only reason for a block to require align boring.
The crank was turned 10/10, but the index was not the same on all of them, so I had some at 3.58stroke and some at less. Indexing a crank refers to machining the throws at a perfect 90 degrees. Equalizing the stroke is different.
The rod lenghths were not the same. They never are when OEM rods are remanned. Unless they are bored on a Tobin Arp rod boring machine--Doubtful
The KB107s were bang on within a couple of tenths. Why wouldn't they be?
So just imagine that mess; organize the rods according to length, organize the pistons according to compression heights. You just said they were bang on--What's left to organize? Take the longest rod with the shortest piston and map out the holes, using the deck height as the comparitor. Then fit the rods and pistons in there to achieve some semblance of equal deck heights. Then fine tune it. Then re-number the rods.
And the holes are still crooked. They cylinders would have to be so non perpendicular for you to notice that your piston skirts are going to show you how bad they are in short order.
The engine doesn't seem to care tho. That's because it isn't as bad as you think.She's a streeter. But it still bugs me. There is nothing I can do about the rear mainseal, so in went a ropeseal. Seems to be working;mostly.
Never again. I will order custom pistons to fit my overbored block and make 'em fit, cutting the tops to fit the chambers What are you talking about? Cut the tops to fit chambers? What are you building a Big Chevy with domes? Even then chamber mold kits exist now so pistons can be made EXACTLY how you need them.
No line-hone, no decking, no head or intake shaving. No crank work, no rod resizing.Just boring;thank you very much. I have two 360 cores waiting.
.
Anybody need a fully machined 360-40over block, with matching maincaps? I'll palletize it in a big plastic bag. I'll call it a ready-to-go, block-in-a-bag.
'Course Ima kidding. When I finally replace this hummer, I will personally take a sledge-hammer to it. You sound like your own worse enemyEvery blow will bring me immense satisfaction.
BTW, every machine shop said "bring us another block and we'll make it right." ........Um, no! In the shops mind they are thinking "And this time we won't listen to this guys asinine requests and just machine the block the way we always do"
I forgave them right then and there, so if they burn in the Lake of Fire, it won't be on my account..
Yeah, so I'll be 63 this summer. Blasting around in my S is sorta losing it's appeal, so I might never get to another engine. I gots 2 grandkids now, tho, and maybe a couple more coming, so you never know..............And I still have excellent health.
Click to expand...

I've read many of your posts and part of me wishes you could experience work that comes out of my shop and part of me thinks I would quote so high that you would move onto to the next poor shop. J.Rob
 
AJ/FormS said:
Engine oil or tranny oil?
It looks too dark to be fresh engine oil.

BTW, those chrome necks are almost impossible to seal. No they're not if you resurface them for about 2 seconds on a belt surface.If you really want to use it, you will need to machine it dead flat, and open up the T-stat receiving flange. Then you will need to stud the manifold, and the top of the stud needs to be fine thread. Studding a T-stat housing with fine thread studs? Really?Then you will need large,thick,hardened washers and grade 8 self-locking nuts. Do not use loc washers.Fit the washers as may be req'd.Do not overtighten.If you overtighten it, it will warp, and you are back to square one. Use exactly one good quality .030 to .040 gasket(I make my own from that blue stuff), and no sealers.Use a 7psi cap.n Again why?
That's what worked for me.
Click to expand...

Too funny. J.Rob
 
duster360 said:
Just went to open the radiator to take a peek inside and the when I twisted the cap it jumped up in the air. It had pressure behind it and the engine has cooled.
Click to expand...
This actually a good thing that your system is leak free. It holds pressure until cooled completely--as in overnight. J.Rob
 
RAMM
68 posts and not one help from you,And then 4 in a row;and still notta one helps the OP.

So here's a recap;
It has "a slight low end miss"
It has enough air pressure in the rad to blow the cap out of his hand and send it airborne
it's pushing a black fluid out the stathouse, but doesn't seem to have oil in the rad.
cylinders are still"oily looking"
 
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