Need some help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Does the valve cover have a baffle under the PCV.

If not the PCV'll suck oil/spray outta the valve cover, causing symptoms like yours.
 
As for the rings, in my personal opinion, I would find it believable if this problem was happening on a couple cylinders, but all 8 is just hard for me to see. I am not saying it couldn't happen, but just hard for me to grasp. But, I am no expert by any means.
 
inertia said:
Does the valve cover have a baffle under the PCV.

If not the PCV'll suck oil/spray outta the valve cover, causing symptoms like yours.
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Glad you mentioned this. I had forgotten about it. When I first fired the engine I had some clattering coming from under the covers. I had an issue with and had clearenced all the baffles for the rockers arm adjusters. I thought maybe I hadn't clearenced them enough so I just removed them and it turns out I had some lifter that weren't pumping up and they finally did and the noise stopped. Would the PCV put that much oil around the engine? I see none in the intake where the cab sits.
 
Thats an easy one to prove, dont run PCV through the intake to test. But baffle fore sure. My old Mazda truck will float a ping pong ball off the valve covers unbaffled oil cap at a fast idle and itll get oily in about 5 seconds. The PCV spud IS baffled on that cover though.
 
Your compression is good, but the 2nd ring is an oil scraper, and the 3rd is a pair of finer oil scrapers. If the compression is ok, it may only need more time to seat the other rings. They can take more time to seat than the compression ring can. Henace my "types of mileage" question. I wouldn;t panic just yet.
Good ont he breather - I think it's wise to double check the intake fitment. No gasket - just clean it all up and lay it on the engine, then look for gaps. gaskets will seal small surface imperfections. they probably won't seal if things are not "right". I know you checked with an angle gage - I would check it by trying to lay it on it.
 
moper said:
Your compression is good, but the 2nd ring is an oil scraper, and the 3rd is a pair of finer oil scrapers. If the compression is ok, it may only need more time to seat the other rings. They can take more time to seat than the compression ring can. Henace my "types of mileage" question. I wouldn;t panic just yet.
Good ont he breather - I think it's wise to double check the intake fitment. No gasket - just clean it all up and lay it on the engine, then look for gaps. gaskets will seal small surface imperfections. they probably won't seal if things are not "right". I know you checked with an angle gage - I would check it by trying to lay it on it.
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I will check fitment later today and check back in. The rings are Total seal file to fit. I was very meticulous at filing the rings for fitment. Some were on the money for the required gap and others within .001" .002" on the loose side of the required gap. None were too tight.
 
Here are the measurements I got from the intake manifold. As instructed, I sat the intake down on the engine with clean surfaces and no gaskets. I slid the intake to one side and kept pressure on it with one hand to be sure it stayed flush with the head. I was using Edelbrock .060" gaskets.

.042" at first intake bolt hole
.048" at first set of intake runners
.056" at rear intake runners
.0585" at rear intake bolt hole
.055" gap at front between china wall and intake
.050" roughly at rear china wall and intake, kinda hard to measure there.
 
Machining it is then!

Looks like about,.016 front to back. Mine was worse. It's been fine now since 2004 or so.

I think it was FelPro blues that cured my leaker. I started torquing from the loose end, instead of the usual sequence.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Machining it is then!

Looks like about,.016 front to back. Mine was worse. It's been fine now since 2004 or so.

I think it was FelPro blues that cured my leaker. I started torquing from the loose end, instead of the usual sequence.
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Would you mind sharing the torque sequence you used. I know it has been over 10 years, but if you could remember, it might help my situation. I will look into the felpro blue gaskets.
 
I worked it in groups and stages. I started at the baggy end(the back,for me). I snugged the back 4 bolts; tightened them lightly with a wrench, in an X-pattern,about 3 times, ever snugger.Then snugged the center and front end;lightly. Then another X on the back;to 60%. then X-patterned the front to 60% or so. Then X'd the back to 80%. Then the front to 80%, Then the rear to 100%. Then the rest to 100%.Or some such a thing.
I thought the important thing would be to not pull one side of the back tighter than the other, and to allow the manifold enough flexibility at the front, to allow the rear bolts to draw the intake down into the valley.
Seems to have worked.I've never had a leak since.
In fact, my 230* cam will idle down to 500rpm in starter gear of 10.97,pulling itself over soft ground.Then I pedal the clutch some, cuz, if it falls much lower it will probably stall.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I worked it in groups and stages. I started at the baggy end(the back,for me). I snugged the back 4 bolts; tightened them lightly with a wrench, in an X-pattern,about 3 times, ever snugger.Then snugged the center and front end;lightly. Then another X on the back;to 60%. then X-patterned the front to 60% or so. Then X'd the back to 80%. Then the front to 80%, Then the rear to 100%. Then the rest to 100%.Or some such a thing.
I thought the important thing would be to not pull one side of the back tighter than the other, and to allow the manifold enough flexibility at the front, to allow the rear bolts to draw the intake down into the valley.
Seems to have worked.I've never had a leak since.
In fact, my 230* cam will idle down to 500rpm in starter gear of 10.97,pulling itself over soft ground.Then I pedal the clutch some, cuz, if it falls much lower it will probably stall.
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I would have never thought to try that. Thanks.
 
Are your last 2 measurements down at the lower edges of the manifold flange, and are the first 4 measurements further up? If so, that thing has a good twist in it. Thicker gaskets might be a help in that.

BTW, did the block have the head locating pins in place, and were they snug/tight to the holes in the heads? My son and I made sure the heads were held down against the pins front and rear on both sides to align the heads the same (at least as good as the block machining was) while initially torquing the heads bolts. (Same setup as yours with new Edelbrock pieces.) That gave just a few thousandths manifold gap difference along all corners. Of course, it may just be the luck of the draw on manifold castings....
 
nm9stheham said:
Are your last 2 measurements down at the lower edges of the manifold flange, and are the first 4 measurements further up? If so, that thing has a good twist in it. Thicker gaskets might be a help in that.

BTW, did the block have the head locating pins in place, and were they snug/tight to the holes in the heads? My son and I made sure the heads were held down against the pins front and rear on both sides to align the heads the same (at least as good as the block machining was) while initially torquing the heads bolts. (Same setup as yours with new Edelbrock pieces.) That gave just a few thousandths manifold gap difference along all corners. Of course, it may just be the luck of the draw on manifold castings....
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Those 2 measurements are around the water neck and distributor areas.
 
Would it hurt to use a little red permatex rtv around the ports on the cylinder head side for a little extra assurance?
 
I always use a very thin skim coat of blue RTV, and have consistently good sealing experiences. The suggestion earlier of Gasgacinch is along those lines and is perhaps better. But use either too much and it will just be an unwelcome lubricant causing things to slip around too much. (And RTV is not gasoline proof anyway and so can only be a glue/adhesive', and not a serve as a real gasket in that spot.)
 
Since I reuse my gaskets multiple times, I use no sealers whenever possible, cuz they are so difficult to remove.I use sealers in the corners like everyone else, cuz I have learned how to remove it from there.My gaps were much worse,than yours, and needed no sealer for help.I was prepared to do the job twice, cuz it was on my own project, and that's how I roll;I'm a bit of a redneck problem-solver.
If I was working for a client, I would have put some sealer on there. I would have glued the gasket to the intake with a hi-tack spray glue.Then I would have used the "Right Stuff"on the heads.This combo is guaranteed to seal the intake, but will take hours to remove. But that job ain't never comin' back cuz of suckin' where it ain't suppos' to.
When you pull it apart it will tear the gasket to shreds, and you will be staring at a couple of hours of work, to get virgin again.You may even have to cut the manifold off, at the gasket-line.heehee

Yeah, a bit of RTV should be ok.
 
Good to know that is an option. I will most likely try it the way you did torquing it from the rear forward. If that doesnt work I will either call my machinist or try the rtv and go from there.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Or the decks are sloping,front to rear;after the" square decking";which is what mine were.
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Roger, I was looking at the numbers and the tighter lower gap was at the same end with the looser upper gap measurements and vice versa. Hence the idea of a twist somewhere.....I would expect a good torquing sequence to take a lot out.....
 
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