Yeah if you see a gap in the middle don't use it.
New cam issues,
- Thread starter 4fortyDemon
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I'd run it over a fine wire wheel and run it.
Hell back in the day I'd probably lube it up and run it as is. lol
DartDave73
Well-Known Member
I like using the 30% vinegar (get it at Home Depot or Lowes) to remove rust like this. Just spray down and wait an hour or so. Then just rinse off with water or spray down with brake cleaner. Anything further I'd use 800 grit to polish it up.
Just watch out for that vinegar. It'll take your breath away and leave no apologies. But it'll also open your sinuses!
Just watch out for that vinegar. It'll take your breath away and leave no apologies. But it'll also open your sinuses!
484/284.. not sure if it's the older version or newer.
That's a nice cam if it's the original one with the tighter LSA, cosmoline was cleaned with kerosene, back in "the day" Toyotas were all shipped from Nippon coated with it. We had a 5gal bucket 1/2 full of kerosene & a sponge, wiped the whole car down in the wash bay, then hosed it off once it dissolved. Yes it was F'n dangerous & tricky to stay vertical, EPA would love that today, but of course now We replaced it with trash cans full of protective plastic film sooo
Green 3M pad & don't sweat the pores or scratches, holds lube & gives tappet some traction to spin,
Thanks Killer6. I used red and I'm going to finish in green pad.
It took a lot to get the crap off. Now onto the freaking lifters... have minor nicks on the sides of some and maybe 5 of 8 have nicks on the bottom.
Idk how long these sat,but the "oil, lube", whatever you want to call it, is black and kinda chunky. I've never disassembled lifters before. It's really easy..lol.
I'm cleaning all the crap out of them and shooting a tiny amount of wd and lightly coating the moving surfaces inside the lifter with white lithium grease.
It took a lot to get the crap off. Now onto the freaking lifters... have minor nicks on the sides of some and maybe 5 of 8 have nicks on the bottom.
Idk how long these sat,but the "oil, lube", whatever you want to call it, is black and kinda chunky. I've never disassembled lifters before. It's really easy..lol.
I'm cleaning all the crap out of them and shooting a tiny amount of wd and lightly coating the moving surfaces inside the lifter with white lithium grease.
Thoughts on this nick?
If you can feel a raised edge then take a sooth file and knock the edge down flat... good to go
A mopar buddy of mine says that the lifters are used? Sent me a picture of some new ones he has...
They look to be, if they were in order they're fine to run but if you have any doubts replace them
Unfortunately, not in order. I was over on fbbo. Saw somewhere on one of the forums ( can't find it now of course) where you can send your lifters in to be resurfaced? Never heard of it but I read it earlier today for s&g's
Yeah that's a great option, especially with the price of new ones. I was going to mention that but my dog was about to take a **** in the living room and I hurried my post lol.
Lmfao!!!
I'm more worried about the concave wear pattern. I wouldn't run that.
He's right. They are used.......up.
F**king sucks. So much for getting this turd together.
Again, appreciate the info
The cam looks ok from what I've seen. New lifters and break it in good and it'll probably be ok.
You'll get it.
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I think that if you are first worried about rust on the cam and now nicks in the lifters you are barking up a tree that needs to be barked at.
If you want advice from people on this form to see what you are looking at, Well that not gonna happen. They can not see what you are seeing.
I could be in on the cam but damaged lifters???
Its your motor but I would not run them and I am freakin cheap.
Wipe your cam and you are out the cost of lifters before you even replace the cam and lifters due to coolant, gaskets, Oil etc.
Just my 2 cents.
Most cam failures are due to lifters not rotating.
Damaged lifters are probably not going to rotate.
I have some used lifters that I will give you free of charge that look better.
If you want advice from people on this form to see what you are looking at, Well that not gonna happen. They can not see what you are seeing.
I could be in on the cam but damaged lifters???
Its your motor but I would not run them and I am freakin cheap.
Wipe your cam and you are out the cost of lifters before you even replace the cam and lifters due to coolant, gaskets, Oil etc.
Just my 2 cents.
Most cam failures are due to lifters not rotating.
Damaged lifters are probably not going to rotate.
I have some used lifters that I will give you free of charge that look better.
Jeremiah (jd)
Well-Known Member
On the subject of lifter refacing:
Look up Jack Vines over on www.speed-talk.com or call Oregon Cam grinders.
I can't handle the stress of flat tappet cams anymore. Between the tight cam bores with the knife butchred bearings and cam/lifter QC it's too nerve wracking. I'd go roller et way before EFI or a lot of the other moderately expensive trends.
If you are going to send the lifters to be checked out ot might be a good idea to have them check the cam.
Look up Jack Vines over on www.speed-talk.com or call Oregon Cam grinders.
I can't handle the stress of flat tappet cams anymore. Between the tight cam bores with the knife butchred bearings and cam/lifter QC it's too nerve wracking. I'd go roller et way before EFI or a lot of the other moderately expensive trends.
If you are going to send the lifters to be checked out ot might be a good idea to have them check the cam.
71Demon528
Well-Known Member
Recently built my father in laws street BBC for his chevelle with my good friend/engine builder. Had to rebuild it after the engine drank a nut from the air cleaner (long story). Treated it like it was one of our 800-900hp all out race engines as far as assembly process and anal retentive. Brand new hydraulic flat tappet camshaft and lifters from comp cams were installed. Yes we made sure they all turned when barring the engine over before finishing the build. Yes we used the right lubricant and break in oil. 5 lifters failed on the initial startup. Car never made it out of the driveway. Yes we followed proper flat tappet break in procedure. Now the engine is completely trashed and needs removed from the car and rebuilt and the re installed. It will be getting a hydraulic roller this time even if I have to buy it myself.
Moral of the story is, if you are leery about that flat tappet cam and lifters, don’t ruin your engine by installing them. Pick another route.
Moral of the story is, if you are leery about that flat tappet cam and lifters, don’t ruin your engine by installing them. Pick another route.
I'm putting BACK together a Chevy 402 right now that did the same thing and we did everything right, too. It has a small street solid roller in it this time.
71Demon528
Well-Known Member
That’s what I like to hear. I’d prefer solid roller but my father in law is never going to go for that lol
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