Odd shifter problem, need advice

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Looking at Brewer's site, photo of the rebuilt factory shifters doesn't have stop bolts, photo of the new shifters have two stop bolts.
Rebuilt:
1730653963347.png


New:
1730653919343.png


Looking at photos of mine I thought it had "competition plus" stamped into it but looking again I don't see it. It looks like it just has a bunch of numbers like the factory one shown, and also the number stamped vertically on the rear edge of it

Mine:
1730654106029.png
 
I'm not there, but guessing that there is nothing wrong with your shifter. Go over the things that we have discussed.
 
Uncle Bob said:
Looking at Brewer's site, photo of the rebuilt factory shifters doesn't have stop bolts, photo of the new shifters have two stop bolts.
Rebuilt: View attachment 1716322725

New: View attachment 1716322724

Looking at photos of mine I thought it had "competition plus" stamped into it but looking again I don't see it. It looks like it just has a bunch of numbers like the factory one shown, and also the number stamped vertically on the rear edge of it

Mine: View attachment 1716322727
Click to expand...
lol, yours has the appearance that someone was angry with it.
 
Any chance that reverse rod comes in contact with the trans mount when shifting?

1730655443733.png
 
According to the tech editor at Mopar Action, Rick Ehrenberg, if you use GL-5 gear oil the syncros can't bite enough because they were made for GL-4 and older oil.
 
UB, I never use those stop bolts. They. are a giant PITA and as far as I can tell they do nothing but cause issues.

Just take the stop bolt out and readjust the shifter.

There are many times I’ve had to adjust a shift rod longer to make it shift. That line up hole is an approximation.
 
nckennyb said:
According to the tech editor at Mopar Action, Rick Ehrenberg, if you use GL-5 gear oil the syncros can't bite enough because they were made for GL-4 and older oil.
Click to expand...
Maybe - Maybe not
 
Last edited:
nckennyb said:
According to the tech editor at Mopar Action, Rick Ehrenberg, if you use GL-5 gear oil the syncros can't bite enough because they were made for GL-4 and older oil.
Click to expand...
I'm using GL-4

From PennGrade 1® Classic GL-4 Gear Oil SAE 80W-90 - Gear Lubricants
In applications specifying API GL-4 quality lubricants, use of API GL-5 lubricants with higher extreme pressure additive activity/concentration can damage these ‘soft’ metal components. It is not intended for use in ‘limited slip’ applications and does not contain friction modifiers which can interfere with proper synchronizer performance.
Click to expand...
 
Uncle Bob said:
The levers are centered as good as they can be both at the transmission and the shifter using a rod through the centering holes.

I noticed a lot of slop in at least the reverse side of things. There were about 5 turns of range on the reverse rod and it would still fit on both ends. I put it in the middle of that.
Click to expand...
My 833 in my 69' Dart (photo) had the same issue. SLOP!!!!! I bought new rod bushings and spring clips, along with adding an extra shim or spacer in the Comp-Plus shifter box. That was 36 years ago and still shifting great. The shifting rods (all) need to be in the correct position for a flawless shift.
 
Swinger 340 said:
My 833 in my 69' Dart (photo) had the same issue. SLOP!!!!! I bought new rod bushings and spring clips, along with adding an extra shim or spacer in the Comp-Plus shifter box. That was 36 years ago and still shifting great. The shifting rods (all) need to be in the correct position for a flawless shift.
Click to expand...
Your factory shifter rods (linkage) had bushings ?
 
66fs said:
No, experience with Hurst shifters. Aftermarket had bushings, factory did not. But Hurst "clips" are thicker and take out a lot of wiggle.
Click to expand...
I'm aware of all of that, but that's not what I was asking. Both of my 69 4speeds didn't come with factory bushings as posted elsewhere here. I'm asking him because of his comment and I'm curious if his is factory and he added bushings or if it's not factory. :rolleyes:
 
A56 said:
If I recall, '69 and '70 only are bayonet style. I know that they (Hurst) sells conversion kits to make them bolt in style like '71 etc.
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1968-'71 were bayonet. Some very late '71 cars may have been built with bolt-on sticks, but most of what I've encountered that appeared unmodified has been bayonet... and let's be real, who would intentionally downgrade from a bolt-in stick?

The pilots exist on OEM shifters to drill for stop bolts:

1730828482131.png


1730828514462.png



It's very easy and a popular modification, even in "the day" so to speak. With these parts being so old, it's impossible to say what a previous owner did to something. The easy way to tell if the stop bolts are original is to look at the area around the hole. Hurst stamped those holes, they didn't drill them. The non-OEM Hurst shifters I have show a slight depression around the stop bolt holes from the stamping process.

Do you know what shifter mount is on the car?
 
NoCar340 said:
Do you know what shifter mount is on the car?
Click to expand...
I don't remember but ran into that on a different car so I'm almost sure I checked it is the right one.

I'm trying to get up enough energy and desire to put the car up on stands again. Cancer sucks.
 
Uncle Bob said:
I don't remember but ran into that on a different car so I'm almost sure I checked it is the right one.

I'm trying to get up enough energy and desire to put the car up on stands again. Cancer sucks.
Click to expand...


Yes, cancer does suck. And it blows. And it's nasty and vile and dirty.
 
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