Old School 340 Build

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The value job is 20 years old, Mike lapped them and installed new seals. He said the intakes are stock 340 Chrysler and the exhaust valves are some kind of after market.
The heads flowed 241@500 when I brought them to Mike, when the Dyno runs ended and I was a bit puzzled with the big numbers he admitted that he touched them up a bit more one night when he was bored!
When you said some porting, 240's cfm is how I interpreted that and believed some others were a bit optimistic. Had it been known from the start they were actually well ported...the guesstimates would have been closer. Lol I don't really get excited about the huge carb and headers on the dyno because they're not usually what the motor wears out of the dyno room, aka in the car it will make less unless all the same stuff is used.
mine had basically stock heads and 30k miles, with the info you posted, i say my guess was accurate based on that info.
Gotta chuckle at the ones saying they curtailed a well known builder with their guess, wow there...I'm always amazed.
Op I'm guessing the heads flowed 250's /190's, can you share that info for the hell of it?
 
The carb and headers are what is going into the car, they were both on the old engine before the bearing died.
I had the heads flowed before I took them to Mike to go through, they flowed 241 @ 500.... after the Dyno numbers came in Mike admitted that he got into them one evening while he was in the shop because he can't leave well enough alone.....who am I to argue LOL
 
What I love about this "build" is it shows the actual potential of an iron headed small block with a stock stroke. My 340 is sporting stock 2.02 heads (non ported) and a reproduction 340 4spd cam. This thread makes me want to get some porting done and up the cam. :)

Really great job.
 
Another Scamp! Yes, that should do well--should be in the low-mid 11s when it hooks, no?
It should hook , the car is tubbed and the springs are moved in, has a 6 point bar and sub frame connectors. The guy who built the engine is going to put together a set of home build leaf springs and traction bars for it.... we'll see how it goes.
 
Not sure how the A/F was measured. The carb needs curve work as it appear to go pretty rich up top. There is more in it getting the curve straightened out.

Nice build with what you had laying around!
 
Not sure how the A/F was measured. The carb need curve work as it appear to go pretty rich up top. There is more in it getting the curve straightened out.

Nice build with what you had laying around!


I saw that too. It was pretty rich for a good bit of RPM. There was a bit left in it just from that. It may not have taken a nose dive, or as big a nose dive if that was cleaned up.
 

So IVC is 78.5. Making DCR 6.58. And yet you still pull 300+ ftlbs from 2k+.

Put a 4 speed behind it, don't get below 2500 rpm and it should be a hell of a lot of fun to drive.


Where did you get that hood? I'm looking for a hemi style hood for my 72 scamp.

Idle was dirty... Mike said he was going to redo the distributor and would get it back when it gets in the car

Any problems with missing at idle or higher up? I bet with better spark in there that you're going to pickup 10 horse on the bottom end. What was your timing?
 
Mike figure that with about 3 hours of carb work we could get maybe to 460hp, but the Dyno operator had some personal stuff to attend to and I was getting hungry so we called it a day.
 
So IVC is 78.5. Making DCR 6.58. And yet you still pull 300+ ftlbs from 2k+.

Put a 4 speed behind it, don't get below 2500 rpm and it should be a hell of a lot of fun to drive.

I have a 727 and a 3000 stall for it, I know that the stall should be higher but that's what I have. I do know a guy with a jerico 4 speed for sale which would be fun!


Where did you get that hood? I'm looking for a hemi style hood for my 72 scamp.


Hood is steel with a bolt on scoop


Any problems with missing at idle or higher up? I bet with better spark in there that you're going to pickup 10 horse on the bottom end. What was your timing?
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No missing at all, total timing was 36 degrees....Mike is changing the initial timing in the distributor after it goes in the car.
 
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No missing at all, total timing was 36 degrees....Mike is changing the initial timing in the distributor after it goes in the car.

727 shouldn't be too bad. Going with manual valve body? A jerico 4 speed would get you into A LOT of trouble!

Ahh the old bolt on scoop. I've been thinking I might just go that way, but I kinda want the weight savings of a fiberglass hood.

I'm curious what your initial ends up being.
 
It should hook , the car is tubbed and the springs are moved in, has a 6 point bar and sub frame connectors. The guy who built the engine is going to put together a set of home build leaf springs and traction bars for it.... we'll see how it goes.

I guess we should keep eyes peeled for when you drop that thread in the racers forum
 
So is this thing going to be a stick or a slush box deal?

I can't think of a reason why an engine like this wouldn't benefit from a 4K stall converter. Then whatever happens at 2000-3500 is of little consequence.

But, to do that on the street you won't be buying a $500.00 USFRN converter.
 
727 shouldn't be too bad. Going with manual valve body? A jerico 4 speed would get you into A LOT of trouble!

Ahh the old bolt on scoop. I've been thinking I might just go that way, but I kinda want the weight savings of a fiberglass hood.

I'm curious what your initial ends up being.
What are you talking about, when the hell does every Fred and bob have a jerico..ha man you are fake, I highly doubt you build anything..in fact you've dodged that question twice so far and now you're in this thread saying you wanna see the dynamic up a point or so??...oh no you don't, in the other thread its perfect below 8.1, remember? You think when the timing is up near 30 and it still starts like that its not a tell tail sign of low cranking pressure?? Bet your **** doesn't even run, the only thing you got running is your mouth, and mopower is a tool, I don't care what anyone here says, its just an assramming fest for some of you jack wads.

As to contribute.... great build, its soft on squeeze but it'll almost make it up in the top end, if it were 8.4 dynamic it would be a very good amount of usable torque, everywhere.
 
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So is this thing going to be a stick or a slush box deal?

I can't think of a reason why an engine like this wouldn't benefit from a 4K stall converter. Then whatever happens at 2000-3500 is of little consequence.

But, to do that on the street you won't be buying a $500.00 USFRN converter.


I have a 727 for it , we are going to put a Cope forward manual valve body and drum into it. The parts should be here soon as we ordered them on that Black Friday holiday you guys celebrate.

I have a old 3000 Stall ATI converter, I'm going to start with that and see how good/bad it does and go from there.
 
727 shouldn't be too bad. Going with manual valve body? A jerico 4 speed would get you into A LOT of trouble!

Ahh the old bolt on scoop. I've been thinking I might just go that way, but I kinda want the weight savings of a fiberglass hood.

I'm curious what your initial ends up being.

I was close to buying a Jerico last summer...luckily my friend who has one offered me a ride in his Duster before I purchased one, after a 1/2 hour drive in his car I was deaf and not nearly as interest in a Jerico.
 
Can't wait to see this--when does it get warm enough to start racing up in Winnipeg? I've never been there.
 
What are you talking about, when the hell does every Fred and bob have a jerico..ha man you are fake, I highly doubt you build anything..in fact you've dodged that question twice so far and now you're in this thread saying you wanna see the dynamic up a point or so??...oh no you don't, in the other thread its perfect below 8.1, remember? You think when the timing is up near 30 and it still starts like that its not a tell tail sign of low cranking pressure??
Your **** doesn't even run, the only thing you got running is your mouth, and mopower is a lame, I don't care what anyone here says, its just an assramming fest for some of east coast jack wads.

As to contribute.... great build, its soft on squeeze but it'll almost make it up in the top end, if it were 8.4 it would be a very good amount of usable torque, everywhere.

LOL you that bent outta shape you gotta follow me into another thread?

I build lots. I just don't share it with idiots like you who don't understand it. But you're obviously stalking me so feel free to look in other threads where I mention what I got. And yup. I said I'd like to see DCR up a bit, cause it's under 7:1. And the other thread it was just below 8:1. Lol I guess you don't know the difference. But hey wait. Weren't you the one talking about too big a cam killing DCR/power? Huh, this DCR is 6.58:1, and yet, 450 horse! I'm guessing that's 250 horse more than anything you've ever owned (which you still haven't mentioned). My **** runs great. Drove it every month this year and last. Oh and btw I'm not on the east coast lol, you so stupid you don't even know where a whole province is? Your comment on torque shows how stupid you are. You saying 300+ ftlbs at 2100 rpm isn't "useable"? lol You need to give your head a shake, pipe down, and maybe you will learn something!

Now kindly stalk me in peace and quiet. Children like you should be seen, not heard.

I have a 727 for it , we are going to put a Cope forward manual valve body and drum into it. The parts should be here soon as we ordered them on that Black Friday holiday you guys celebrate.

I have a old 3000 Stall ATI converter, I'm going to start with that and see how good/bad it does and go from there.

I'm curious how that ATI ends up running. If you want something bigger, try out PTC. I got my custom built converter from them for a whopping $475. Billet front. Wound a little tighter for more street use. It's a great unit. And can't argue with that price.

I was close to buying a Jerico last summer...luckily my friend who has one offered me a ride in his Duster before I purchased one, after a 1/2 hour drive in his car I was deaf and not nearly as interest in a Jerico.

Haha But they are so fun! Maybe not nearly that great on the street, but still fun!
 
I was close to buying a Jerico last summer...luckily my friend who has one offered me a ride in his Duster before I purchased one, after a 1/2 hour drive in his car I was deaf and not nearly as interest in a Jerico.


The Jerico was that noisy? Hmm. I know they are straight cut gears make some noise but going deaf? I know not deaf, but enough to disinterest you?

I haven't been in a driven a car with a Jerico since about 2006 or 2007 and I don't remember the ones I was around being obnoxious.

Anyway, who cares? It's still a cool deal and I can't wait to see how it runs.
 
What are you talking about, when the hell does every Fred and bob have a jerico..ha man you are fake, I highly doubt you build anything..in fact you've dodged that question twice so far and now you're in this thread saying you wanna see the dynamic up a point or so??...oh no you don't, in the other thread its perfect below 8.1, remember? You think when the timing is up near 30 and it still starts like that its not a tell tail sign of low cranking pressure?? Bet your **** doesn't even run, the only thing you got running is your mouth, and mopower is a tool, I don't care what anyone here says, its just an assramming fest for some of you jack wads.

As to contribute.... great build, its soft on squeeze but it'll almost make it up in the top end, if it were 8.4 dynamic it would be a very good amount of usable torque, everywhere.



I have my timing locked out at 36 and it doesn't kick back.

I guess I'm just stupid and left power on the table.

I'll take lots of timing over no timing and a cam with no timing in it.

Time for you to eat that snickers and relax. You are too tight. Maybe some hippie lettuce would help you? Just typing out loud here, and trying to help you out.
 
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