Old Yeller

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j par said:
The budget build and using what he has just seemed to go clean over your head....
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Not really. The cam isn’t correct for what he as. So using it would be a disappointment and a waste of money.

The PF carbs are about 600 bucks each and the linkage is about a buck and a quarter. I found my linkage brand new, in the box right here on FABO and IIRC I paid 85 bucks shipped.

MS can sell the cam he has and get some money to pay for the correct cam.

He can easily sell the two carbs he has for close to the cost of one PF carb, and have two carbs that you can tune and make function on a TR.

You can’t always step over donuts to pick up dog turds. There is value and then there is frugality. Sometimes a small investment pays off big. I personally wouldn’t bother with the carbs he has. They just are simply harder to tune, and harder to correct if you make a change you don’t like.
 
yellow rose said:
Not really. The cam isn’t correct for what he as. So using it would be a disappointment and a waste of money.

The PF carbs are about 600 bucks each and the linkage is about a buck and a quarter. I found my linkage brand new, in the box right here on FABO and IIRC I paid 85 bucks shipped.

MS can sell the cam he has and get some money to pay for the correct cam.

He can easily sell the two carbs he has for close to the cost of one PF carb, and have two carbs that you can tune and make function on a TR.

You can’t always step over donuts to pick up dog turds. There is value and then there is frugality. Sometimes a small investment pays off big. I personally wouldn’t bother with the carbs he has. They just are simply harder to tune, and harder to correct if you make a change you don’t like.
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He'll be lucky to get $150 each for those Edelbrock carburetors when they will work just fine for his intended purpose...
You just cyber spent thirteen hundred and $25 plus cam... LOL...
 
j par said:
He'll be lucky to get $150 each for those Edelbrock carburetors when they will work just fine for his intended purpose...
You just cyber spent thirteen hundred and $25 plus cam... LOL...
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Maybe so. But in the end it’s cheap money to have something worth having.
 
j par said:
He'll be lucky to get $150 each for those Edelbrock carburetors when they will work just fine for his intended purpose...
You just cyber spent thirteen hundred and $25 plus cam... LOL...
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Do it once , do it right = less money in the end.
You should know that by now.
 
Mopar Sam said:
One question I have, I read somewhere that B body headers will fit these trucks, does anybody know if that is true?

All of the truck headers I can find are 1 5/8 tube, except some for Dakotas with 1 3/4 tubes. I wonder if They would fit?

I missed out on a set of W9 headers that were $75 on FB. The shape looked promising, and I am not opposed to making adapters.
Any header suggestions Budget friendly?, Help!!!!
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Car headers fit fine on those old trucks, I put car headers on my old 69 D-100.
This will be the easiest header install you have ever done. Tons of room.
 
I put that cam up for sale here and on moparts before Indy swap and got no bites.

I may start out with a single pane at first. Those carbs I have, I have never run, may try them, may not. I some how ended up with 3, I could sell them, I know the 1 is good.

I may sell a few parts locally, I have a couple 440 blocks and a few heavy things.

I should have said I have NO Money for this right now, but whatever I do, I bet it runs better than the old worn out 318 did.

Don't get me wrong, I know the parts I have now are not right, and I appreciate the advice, but if I wait, it may still be sitting 5 years from now.

I can always swap parts when the money comes. I have 3 sons that will make me... and help!

Honestly I want a better cam, i do have a New crate Motor Hyd roller I may try to sell.


the converter I bought was built for a B body, similar weight to what I hope to get the truck to, and a similar motor. If it is wrong I will send it to PTC, and still be cheaper than a new one. I will live with it until I am happy with the motor combo though.
 
Mopar Sam said:
I put that cam up for sale here and on moparts before Indy swap and got no bites.

I may start out with a single pane at first. Those carbs I have, I have never run, may try them, may not. I some how ended up with 3, I could sell them, I know the 1 is good.

I may sell a few parts locally, I have a couple 440 blocks and a few heavy things.

I should have said I have NO Money for this right now, but whatever I do, I bet it runs better than the old worn out 318 did.

Don't get me wrong, I know the parts I have now are not right, and I appreciate the advice, but if I wait, it may still be sitting 5 years from now.

I can always swap parts when the money comes. I have 3 sons that will make me... and help!

Honestly I want a better cam, i do have a New crate Motor Hyd roller I may try to sell.


the converter I bought was built for a B body, similar weight to what I hope to get the truck to, and a similar motor. If it is wrong I will send it to PTC, and still be cheaper than a new one. I will live with it until I am happy with the motor combo though.
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Build what ya got, and run what ya brung.....
:thumbsup:
 
My first job is going to be weight removal, it is basically free, a few sawsall blades and grinding discs.

Someone before I got it welded a .187 thick sheet of steel over the old wood bed. I will cut that out first, as it wieghs about 214#s

I will have to decide what to do for a bed floor though, but I have some ideas...
 
Mopar Sam said:
My first job is going to be weight removal, it is basically free, a few sawsall blades and grinding discs.

Someone before I got it welded a .187 thick sheet of steel over the old wood bed. I will cut that out first, as it wieghs about 214#s

I will have to decide what to do for a bed floor though, but I have some ideas...
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For some reason, I'm lov'n this thread :D
 
Oh, by the way, Matt's mag runs good! His brand new water pump is leaking though, and so is the old carter mech. fuel pump. Ordering stuff tonight for that. He was smiling from ear to ear when it fired on the first crank! That cam on a 112 lsa sure is mellow though. Oregon regrind, 232, 232 @ 050. 560,560 lift.

I guess I should have put this in my old Magnum thread.
 
Mopar Sam said:
I put that cam up for sale here and on moparts before Indy swap and got no bites.

I may start out with a single pane at first. Those carbs I have, I have never run, may try them, may not. I some how ended up with 3, I could sell them, I know the 1 is good.

I may sell a few parts locally, I have a couple 440 blocks and a few heavy things.

I should have said I have NO Money for this right now, but whatever I do, I bet it runs better than the old worn out 318 did.

Don't get me wrong, I know the parts I have now are not right, and I appreciate the advice, but if I wait, it may still be sitting 5 years from now.

I can always swap parts when the money comes. I have 3 sons that will make me... and help!

Honestly I want a better cam, i do have a New crate Motor Hyd roller I may try to sell.


the converter I bought was built for a B body, similar weight to what I hope to get the truck to, and a similar motor. If it is wrong I will send it to PTC, and still be cheaper than a new one. I will live with it until I am happy with the motor combo though.
Click to expand...



I get exactly where your at. I’m just not a fan of running what you have if it’s not correct for what you want. That’s penny wise and pound foolish ( don’t know why I can’t think of anything not British but that’s why I got!).

That PTC converter if it’s an 8 inch case is really tuneable. It can have an 8 or 9 inch stator. They can do a ton with that case, and that’s why we went with it, rather than a 9 inch case. You’re golden with that.

The cam is rather inexpensive in the total cost. You will probably have a hard time selling the RB cam because all the naysaying nattering naybobs either believe everything is a 1970’s grind, or they’ve never heard of Racer Brown, which is sad. Jim made a believer of several looky lou’s last week.

As for the carbs...yeah, the cost hurts. The last time I really spent any time tuning an AFB/Edelbrock carb on a TR was before 1986. I know it was before that because my buddy that knew the guy we were helping died in July 1986. So it was probably 1985.

The big deal with that style carb is the single inlet, limited float bowl volume, the fact that mounting them inline shuts the needle and seats on acceleration, and the limited ability to to tune the idle, emulsion and air bleed system.

So I get the money sucks. But in the end, the short term pain is worth the long term gain to me.

I’m with you. I’d get it driving first, and update it as funds make themselves available. Not using stuff like this takes the fun out of it.
 
yellow rose said:
I get exactly where your at. I’m just not a fan of running what you have if it’s not correct for what you want. That’s penny wise and pound foolish ( don’t know why I can’t think of anything not British but that’s why I got!).
I’m with you. I’d get it driving first, and update it as funds make themselves available. Not using stuff like this takes the fun out of it.
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I hear what you are say'n, but I'm in Sam's corner on this. Some are content to let their car sit for 17 years till everything is right. If I can't drive 'em, then I'll sell 'em. If I'm a second slow, it's still faster than what it would be tucked in the back 40's - all 17 years it might sit till it's right. I say let the fun begin!
:thumbsup:
 
yellow rose said:
I get exactly where your at. I’m just not a fan of running what you have if it’s not correct for what you want. That’s penny wise and pound foolish ( don’t know why I can’t think of anything not British but that’s why I got!).

That PTC converter if it’s an 8 inch case is really tuneable. It can have an 8 or 9 inch stator. They can do a ton with that case, and that’s why we went with it, rather than a 9 inch case. You’re golden with that.

The cam is rather inexpensive in the total cost. You will probably have a hard time selling the RB cam because all the naysaying nattering naybobs either believe everything is a 1970’s grind, or they’ve never heard of Racer Brown, which is sad. Jim made a believer of several looky lou’s last week.

As for the carbs...yeah, the cost hurts. The last time I really spent any time tuning an AFB/Edelbrock carb on a TR was before 1986. I know it was before that because my buddy that knew the guy we were helping died in July 1986. So it was probably 1985.

The big deal with that style carb is the single inlet, limited float bowl volume, the fact that mounting them inline shuts the needle and seats on acceleration, and the limited ability to to tune the idle, emulsion and air bleed system.

So I get the money sucks. But in the end, the short term pain is worth the long term gain to me.

I’m with you. I’d get it driving first, and update it as funds make themselves available. Not using stuff like this takes the fun out of it.
Click to expand...

Honestly, I have never tuned an edelbrock carb, and have no tuning parts for them. I have jet kits, power valves, non stick gaskets, pump cams, power valves. a few squirters etc for holleys, also a little experience with them.

I will see what happens money wise. I am used to making half a year's money in a couple months of overtime every spring,that did not happen this year, so saving my dimes now.
 
One thing I have going for me is I am usually good at finding deals. And sometimes it just takes patience to get exactly what you want. My Eagle forged crank (New) cost me less than a cast one
 
318willrun said:
I hear what you are say'n, but I'm in Sam's corner on this. Some are content to let their car sit for 17 years till everything is right. If I can't drive 'em, then I'll sell 'em. If I'm a second slow, it's still faster than what it would be tucked in the back 40's - all 17 years it might sit till it's right. I say let the fun begin!
:thumbsup:
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I didn’t tell him to let him sit. I said drive it. My point is I wouldn’t spend any $$$$ on his carbs. I’d run a single 4 first. And save up for 2 good carbs.

I wasn’t very clear in my above post. My wife says I’m not a good communicator, but I never listen to her!
 
yellow rose said:
I didn’t tell him to let him sit. I said drive it. My point is I wouldn’t spend any $$$$ on his carbs. I’d run a single 4 first. And save up for 2 good carbs.

I wasn’t very clear in my above post. My wife says I’m not a good communicator, but I never listen to her!
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LOL..... I got what you were say'n.... Now, go listen to your wife, she can help you understand (maybe) :D :D
 
just just motor home or 4x4 pickup headers for straight axle vehicles , both fit without issues . both of mine are big blocks but the same type fit .

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yellow rose said:
I get exactly where your at. I’m just not a fan of running what you have if it’s not correct for what you want. That’s penny wise and pound foolish ( don’t know why I can’t think of anything not British but that’s why I got!).

That PTC converter if it’s an 8 inch case is really tuneable. It can have an 8 or 9 inch stator. They can do a ton with that case, and that’s why we went with it, rather than a 9 inch case. You’re golden with that.

The cam is rather inexpensive in the total cost. You will probably have a hard time selling the RB cam because all the naysaying nattering naybobs either believe everything is a 1970’s grind, or they’ve never heard of Racer Brown, which is sad. Jim made a believer of several looky lou’s last week.

As for the carbs...yeah, the cost hurts. The last time I really spent any time tuning an AFB/Edelbrock carb on a TR was before 1986. I know it was before that because my buddy that knew the guy we were helping died in July 1986. So it was probably 1985.

The big deal with that style carb is the single inlet, limited float bowl volume, the fact that mounting them inline shuts the needle and seats on acceleration, and the limited ability to to tune the idle, emulsion and air bleed system.

So I get the money sucks. But in the end, the short term pain is worth the long term gain to me.

I’m with you. I’d get it driving first, and update it as funds make themselves available. Not using stuff like this takes the fun out of it.
Click to expand...
I've run factory 6 cylinder fuel lines and never starve out the Dual quads. They have four float bowls in them. I've never heard of the float bowls closing and not allowing fuel in?? if that's a big problem just turn the carburetors around I guess...
I fail to see the problem with running the carburetors that he has until he gets carburetors that he wants I guess...
 
Mopar Sam said:
Honestly, I have never tuned an edelbrock carb, and have no tuning parts for them. I have jet kits, power valves, non stick gaskets, pump cams, power valves. a few squirters etc for holleys, also a little experience with them.

I will see what happens money wise. I am used to making half a year's money in a couple months of overtime every spring,that did not happen this year, so saving my dimes now.
Click to expand...
Screenshot_20200331-160025.png

Anytime you need the doctor of dual quad Edelbrock tunnel ram I'm right here. I do Holley Street Demon as well....
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don't listen to this old man^^^°
Screenshot_20200426-091044.png

Listen to this guy...^^^^
 
well regardless of the old engine size , a new fuel line is great to have . i run 3/8 ss on street stuff and 1/2 or bigger on race stuff single or muti carbs . this is 1/2 to 3/4 then down to 3/8 to the carbs on this model .
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