One wire lock-up, 4 spd automatic w overdrive into A-body.

[Treblig]

This is what you need........

treblig

 

[Treblig]

Thanks for the info, once again, I saw the vice marks on your's and knew they must be very soft. I figured you, as a machinist, knew just how soft they were and still ended up with some vice marks on them. I figured mine would look the same when I was done.

I guess I should fab up some aluminum vice jaw covers for this type of work. I screwed the tube fittings in the end first too, and used the minimum force to hold them steady while drilling and tapping. The tube nuts still screw in and out with ease still. Did you notice I got the 1/8" male /male fittings without the nut in the middle? They were out of those, and I hope I don't have an issue when I screw the adapters into the radiator using the larger nut on the end. I'll use Loctite fitting sealer (not the normal red or blue, but the one made for fittings and pipes etc) when I install them.

They should be pretty strong now using your technique. I picked up a $50 tubing bender from Summit a few weeks ago. They look similar to pliers. I've used the cheaper hand held benders before and ended up with some near kinks in my 90 degree bends. I didn't want that to happen again. I also ordered a 25' box of 5/16" tubing. If I mess up making my lines, I will have another chance or two.

Are these flare fittings on the cooler lines double flared like brake line ends, or are they single flared? I can make either ones.

They are double flared......In fact I used 5/16" brake line for tranny lines on my 2004R swap.

Treblig

 

[jbc426]

My Passon 5 speed just showed up last night. Look at how nice and thin it is where it goes through the torsion bar crossover. It truly is a thing of beauty.

I kinda want to paint the 5 speed I satin black, and the automatic bellhousing Hemi orange. What do you folks think?

 

[Woods74]

I'm thinking I might be jealous. But who knows, nice rig!

 

[jbc426]

I'm thinking I might be jealous. But who knows, nice rig!

Thanks Poison Dart 74! I got my torque converter back from Precision Torque Converters tonight, and preliminary measurements indicate they nailed the depth to with-in a few thousandths of an inch if not 10 thousandths! I will be able to get a very precise measurement when my short block shows up this week, but dang it looks great. Third time was a charm, and now they can crank them out for anyone who wants to go the 200R4 with the Powerglide bellhousing method, because all the foot work has been done.

Anyone wanting to run the Gen 3 Hemi's with one of these transmissions will have to measure the mating surface of the back of the block to the face of the flex plate where the stock torque converter bolts up. you should also verify the location of the ring gear for the starter in relation to the mounting surface of the back of the block face; and they will be able to build you a converter for your 200R4 with bolt-on Bellhousing.

It looks way better than it did last time too. Actually looks like they started from scratch and did a whole new design this time, the mating of the Mopar front half of the converter to the back of the 200R4 converter with a smooth round spacer to make up the difference in depths between the two different styles of converters looks super trick, plus it has the billet cover and 3 disc lock-up clutch upgrade. Its a heavy duty, quality looking piece. Here's a few pics of it. It looks like it will add some significant weight to the rotating mass. It's a heavy sucker!

I sold the seats out of the '68 and the 3.23's are about to get purchased too. I still have a very low mileage 7272 and driveshaft if anyone wants to look it up in the for sale section. I'm currently busy and working on tearing the original 4 speed out of my '70 'Cuda, so I can get the Street Twin clutch shipped over to McLeod for a refresh before the end of the week. I finally got the exhaust off and decided to swap the Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers out for some similar sized Hooker Aero Chambers. I just love the sound of the Aero Chambers on my '68, and figured they would sound even better on a 12.8 to 1 493 stroker motor. As soon As the clutch and scattershield are out this weekend, the 68's drive train is coming apart for the OD trans, 3.91 sure grip and 408 Magnum install.

 

[jbc426]

Update: Yet another distraction I picked up yesterday from a 70 year old ex-Navy Frogman (pre-Seal Team Member working the rivers over in Vietnam in 1960!) Cool guy to talk too!, The deal was too good to pass up. It only had 6432 miles on it, is an '06 and came with a ton of accessories. Besides, it gets over 35 mpg! It's dang near like a Prius....on steroids....lol.

This bike is probably quicker and is definitely faster than either of my cars with the right rider, and I'm not him. This thing is intimidatingly fast!

This combined with 12 hour days working on my Mopars over the weekends, putting in hours before and after work during the week in the mornings and late at night. My neighbors have yet to gripe. Thank gosh, I'm not married. I'm getting in shape from all this.

On the '70, I've almost got my scattershield and clutch out, will package it up real good after a cleaning with the Castrol purple stuff, and get it shipped out to McLeod on Monday.

On the '68, the Corbeau seats and mounting brackets showed up on Saturday afternoon. I love Fed Ex! The adapter brackets fit perfectly and the seats are better than I expected them as far as comfort, support and quality. I highly recommend them! I will now have shoulder straps and a stronger lap belt complete with an auto retract, so you can lean forward and grab something out of the glove box without being locked in your seat. I hate that feeling. My truck does it on corners etc. I used some grade 8 hardware to bolt them in temporarily, as my garage if getting full of car parts from both cars being worked on.

I'll attach a picture of the seats in the 68 in a bit.

 

[dusterdragracer]

Some day!

 

[jedrattle]

I'm very interested in this setup but it sounds expensive. I was thinking about this setup with one of my mag engines with the efi on it. I didn't think about pick ups needed for efi. I'll be watching. You said what computer you are using but what did you do for the wiring harness on the efi? What did you do for the fuel system?

 

[Dart Vadr]

@jbc426 - I've been following your posts for a few weeks as I consider various options for putting a 200r4 in my Dart. Lonnie's shop is about two hours from my house, so I stopped by for a visit yesterday. He was gracious enough to sit down with me and talk through my project requirements and then give me a tour of his shop. I was super impressed with Lonnie, his shop, and his business practices, so I ordered a transmission on the spot. I decided to go with the Reid Racing bellhousing as well.
It'll be a month or so before I get the transmission. I plan to take it to a nearby chassis shop to have a crossmember fabbed. If you don't mind, I'll post my pics here to consolidate information about this particular 200r4 option.

 

[jbc426]

@jbc426 - I've been following your posts for a few weeks as I consider various options for putting a 200r4 in my Dart. Lonnie's shop is about two hours from my house, so I stopped by for a visit yesterday. He was gracious enough to sit down with me and talk through my project requirements and then give me a tour of his shop. I was super impressed with Lonnie, his shop, and his business practices, so I ordered a transmission on the spot. I decided to go with the Reid Racing bellhousing as well.
It'll be a month or so before I get the transmission. I plan to take it to a nearby chassis shop to have a crossmember fabbed. If you don't mind, I'll post my pics here to consolidate information about this particular 200r4 option.

Sounds great. Did you take any pictures? What motor are you putting this behind? The crossmember needs only a small notch cut out of it and a custom rear trans mount made that can bolt almost exactly where the stock one went, but locates the mount about 4.5" back.

I finally got the Passon 5 speed, rebuilt McLeod Street Twin and 3.73 gears in my '70 'Cuda last weekend. I'm going to put some more break-in miles on it today before work. Dang, it's hard to stay off the throttle! It shifts like a dream.

Tomorrow, the old 5.9 and 727 are coming out the bottom of my '68 and the 408 stroker short block should be done next week. The rest of the motor will go together along with the 3000 stall lock-up Precision Converter, the Stage 2 200R4 with Reid Bell housing. Then the fun of getting it stuffed in there begins. This should be good. Do a search for the rear trans mount Hotchkis made for one of his a-bodies. It's a super clean design. I posted a picture of it somewhere in one of these or in Treblig's posts.

Don't run the lock-up unless you plan on going on long trips. It does take more power to spin that weight, and the converters these days are very efficient on the highway.

 

[Dart Vadr]

No, I didn't take any pictures. I should have though... I'll probably be back at his shop in a month or so when my transmission is done, so I can take some at that time (with Lonnie's permission of course). According to Lonnie, the really cool machining operations take place at his shop in Ohio - they do mostly assembly and testing at his North Carolina location.

I'm planning to install a 408 or 416 stroker motor in my Dart. You can find pretty complete details for my planned motor and my Dart at the thread below.

Regarding the lock-up vs non lock-up torque converter issue, I had the same thought process as you going into the meeting with Lonnie. However, we talked through my goals and desires at length and he recommended a lock-up model for my application because I plan to occasionally take the Dart on 4-6 hour highway drives. In any event, I'm expecting my torque converter situation to be a bit more straightforward than yours since I won't have the tone ring to deal with.

I've decided to gear the car a bit differently (either 3.91's or 4.10's) than what is described below to get the engine a little more into its power band on the highway. I'm also going to have the chassis shop build a custom 4-link rather than go with the RMS Streetlynx because they think that they can make room for tailpipes with a Dana 60.

Keep the details coming!

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=265193

 

[jbc426]

No, I didn't take any pictures. I should have though... I'll probably be back at his shop in a month or so when my transmission is done, so I can take some at that time (with Lonnie's permission of course). According to Lonnie, the really cool machining operations take place at his shop in Ohio - they do mostly assembly and testing at his North Carolina location.

I'm planning to install a 408 or 416 stroker motor in my Dart. You can find pretty complete details for my planned motor and my Dart at the thread below.

Regarding the lock-up vs non lock-up torque converter issue, I had the same thought process as you going into the meeting with Lonnie. However, we talked through my goals and desires at length and he recommended a lock-up model for my application because I plan to occasionally take the Dart on 4-6 hour highway drives. In any event, I'm expecting my torque converter situation to be a bit more straightforward than yours since I won't have the tone ring to deal with.

I've decided to gear the car a bit differently (either 3.91's or 4.10's) than what is described below to get the engine a little more into its power band on the highway. I'm also going to have the chassis shop build a custom 4-link rather than go with the RMS Streetlynx because they think that they can make room for tailpipes with a Dana 60.

Keep the details coming!

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=265193

I'm using my tired 5.9 Magnum & 727 to break in a 489 case, Dr Diff built 8 3/4 chunk with Truetrac diff, 3.91's and a 1350 hardened yoke. It's sure is hard not to get on it. I only have a 150 something easy miles on it now.

 

[jbc426]

Well, I finally got the 408" shortblock back and safely stowed in the garage waiting for the CNC Super Prep'd heads with additional porting and deep ported Airgap intake with a Big Gulp Throttle body and 30 lbs injectors to get put on amongst a myriad of other things to get bolted on.

I still need to pull the motor and trans out of my '68, because there are some hard parts I need to swap over to the new motor oil pan and pick-up, lifter spider, the serpentine accessories, headers and the injector rails etc.

I went with a Hughes recommended cam ground on a 110 degree lobe center with .544"Intake, .568" on the exhaust, .228 & .236 @ .050.

Any horsepower guesses on this set-up with 10.2 to 1 compression?

As you may know I 'm going to pull the motor & all out from the bottom for my first time ever, so it should be interesting. If you've followed this far, you already know I'll have to modify the crossmember a bit, make a new rear trans mount and hook up a bunch of new lines, shift & throttle pressure cables and such. I also need to measure and order a new drive shaft with 1350 yolks. I'm hoping we got the converter spacing right this time, and the initial indications look good. I'll know soon enough.

 

[Dart Vadr]

I know this isn't a cam selection thread, but I'm curious what factors went into the cam recommendation for your engine as my engine will be somewhat similar to yours. Thanks!

 

[jbc426]

I know this isn't a cam selection thread, but I'm curious what factors went into the cam recommendation for your engine as my engine will be somewhat similar to yours. Thanks!

I simply told Dave Hughes it was for a 408 Magnum w/ SCT Tuned fuel injection, 30 lbs injectors, the car's sub 3000lbs weight, my intended use, the motor's premium pump gas compression and head choice and flow specs, the rearend gear ratio and that it would have an automatic overdrive transmission with 3000 rpm stall, lock-up converter.

I told him I wanted more of a torque monster that could still rev well, but it was going to be on the street 99% of the time, so I didn't want to over-cam it.

He almost immediately selected this cam, HER2836ALN-10. I'm running the stock Magnum 1.6 to 1 ratio rocker arms except in stainless steel with roller tips.

Without a bigger, less streetable cam, but the heads massaged to flow enough air for over 540 hp, I'm hoping to get close to the 500hp mark.

 

[Dart Vadr]

Great info! Thanks!!!

 

[Dart Vadr]

FYI, your combo appears to be very similar to the combo at the link below. So, I'd guess that you're going to be in the neighborhood of 500HP.

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/15restocruiser416stroker504hp.php

 

[jbc426]

FYI, your combo appears to be very similar to the combo at the link below. So, I'd guess that you're going to be in the neighborhood of 500HP.

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/15restocruiser416stroker504hp.php

Thanks, that pretty much sums it up. I wonder if the deep ported Airgap and CNC Super Prep with a few extra hours of port blending will help it out much. I had the heads cut to gain back some compression from the CNC unshrouding of the valves.

 

[jbc426]

Well, I pulled the engine, transmission and k-member out from under the car for the first time ever. It was actually pretty cool. I sold the trans, torque converter and driveshaft Sunday afternoon to am aspiring Mopar fan.

I dropped the K-member off at one of the only remaining real hot tanks in the valley. They said they would call me when its done. Then I'll weld it up, reinforce it and make sure everything fits before doing so.

I need to pull some accessory items off the old motor to re-use on the new one and paint everything up. I have some paint peeling near one shock tower, so I ,ay just repaint the trunk while I have the paint out and mixed up. I coated it with bead liner to help hide some of the pitting it acquired over the years from the old rubber mat that trapped water under it from time to time. It's currently black.

It won't be long until I'm under there clearancing and reinforcing the torsion bar cross member on the driver's side. Then I will still have to make a rear trans mount. I'm also going to weld the torsion bar crossmember solidly across the length of the floor just like my sub frame connectors are to make it stronger.

I ran out of camera batteries, and was so busy doing all this work alone I didn't get one picture. I think my buddy may have sapped one or two, but I have to check.

I'll make sure to have plenty of spare batteries on hand when it comes time to fit the 200R4 into place. as well as, the additional reinforcing that I'm going to do to strengthen the mid-section of the car.

Oh yah, I also have to fit the GenV Vintage air unit in the car, and upgrade the dash. Mine only has a 120 mph speedo and I found a much nicer 150 mph speedo at the last swap meet I went to.

 

[jbc426]

I test fit the Reid Bellhousing to my old tired 5.9 Magnum. In part to see where to mark the bellhousing to cut the hole for the crank position sensor, and to see if it fit without hitting anything. I may have to loose my 90 degree oil filter adapter.It did fit nicely otherwise.

I also measured from where it bolts on to the face of the back of the block to the end of the tailshaft. Treblig, a few others and I speculated about this earlier in this thread, but here is a rough measurement. Here's the pics. It looks like it comes in at 28 1/4 inches, but I'll take a more accurate measurement when I get off work, and see if the torque converter has the correct dimentions.

 

[Treblig]

Well... its gonna be close!!! I have a spare 2004R and just measured it. Came out a hair over 28" maybe 28 1/16 to the end of the housing. The books all say 28 1/4" so I guess that's probably what it is (my stick might not have been perfectly square with the trans). Either way if you trim the upper cross member as per my previous posts (pics) or remove it completely you should have no problem, unless you don't cut enough. How did your torque convertor to flex plate clearance come out?? Should be no more than 3/16" so that you get proper engagement of the front pump.

PS - Still waiting for the mechanic to install the 3.73s gears in the Cuda. The guy hurt his knee and can't work on anything for a week or so.

Treblig

 

[Dart Vadr]

Looks like you have a country mile of clearance between the tranny and the driver-side header. Mind posting a pic of the right side? Also, what brand of headers are those?

 

[jbc426]

Looks like you have a country mile of clearance between the tranny and the driver-side header. Mind posting a pic of the right side? Also, what brand of headers are those?

I had to remove the oil filter, which was a full length PH8A style Napa Gold to get the bellhousing on. I was running the 90 degree filter adapter. The headers are the cheap Summit brand, but they work and fit pretty nice. They do need to be massaged on the driver's side with this 7 quart Milodon oil pan and they are a bear to put in when the engine is in from the top. Passenger side gave no problems and the price is right!

Installing them bolted on to the motor from the bottom it's no problem though. Getting that old oxygen sensor out has proven to be a challenge, so I left it in there until I can get some heat on it and re-tap the hole for the wideband tuning.

This is the best pics I had of the passenger side right now. I can get a better angle later.

 

[jbc426]

Well... its gonna be close!!! I have a spare 2004R and just measured it. Came out a hair over 28" maybe 28 1/16 to the end of the housing. The books all say 28 1/4" so I guess that's probably what it is (my stick might not have been perfectly square with the trans). Either way if you trim the upper cross member as per my previous posts (pics) or remove it completely you should have no problem, unless you don't cut enough. How did your torque convertor to flex plate clearance come out?? Should be no more than 3/16" so that you get proper engagement of the front pump.

PS - Still waiting for the mechanic to install the 3.73s gears in the Cuda. The guy hurt his knee and can't work on anything for a week or so.

Treblig

I went out with a buddy for a celebration dinner tonight and didn't get anything done. I want to drop the torque converter in the transmission tomorrow and see how it came out. We're aiming for 1/8" from fully seated in the transmission to bolted to the flexplate. That will put me right in the middle of the 3/16" range of fully seated, to out-to-far. It should be close, but tomorrow will tell.

If not, I will finally have all the parts to male an exact measurement, engine with crank and flexplate, torque converter and trans. Up until now it's been measuring the old trans and using what the torque converter manufacturer knows about depths inside the transmissions. If we get it to within an 1/16" fully bolted together tomorrow, it will be pretty impressive. AND, the converters can be more easily made, instead of the trial and error method we used. Fingers crossed.

Cutting is going to happen for any automatic transmission overdrive install in a Mopar, but it should be called notching for the 200R4 (Treblig's pic) versus major surgery for a Mopar overdrive install (some poor guy with no more middle in his factory crossmember of his torsion bar). To be fair, I'm sure her reinforced it somehow, but still! Plus the Mopar transmissions take a lot more power to spin.


It won't be long now until you guys are going to be flooded with pics of the install.

 

[Dart Vadr]

Wow, I see what you mean about the oil filter clearance issue. I bought the same transmission bellhousing and I have the same right angle oil filter adapter, so that's a real bummer for both of us. Looking forward to seeing more pics as your project progresses.