There are several marine parts suppliers, I've forgotten which one is best, sometimes it comes down to "who has it." On CAVEAT!!!! Be careful of import parts. ignition coils are a big BIG problem. I recently bought some OEM OMC coils sold by Bombardier who is the "last" owner so to speak of what was OMC/ Johnson / Evinrude. Turns out the coils are the same piss green china junk sold on ebay. They are not worth a hoot. Somewhere there is a thread that I did testing them
So far as I know, there never was an official OEM carb kit, rather, individual parts. However is the carb is actually salvagable, I've found mostly that you can re-use all the parts, and the biggest replacement items for me have been the float bowl gasket and the packing for the needle valves. Another "must check" item is the seal on the high speed jet where it dips into the bottom of the bowl. On some/ most models that MUST be sealed, as the needle valve acts in the bowl, and if fuel leaks bast where the tube dips into that bottom well of the bowl, the needle will not be controlling the mixture.
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Pump impellers for the older older ones are kinda spotty, but I bet you can find one.
What I've found to be the biggest problems with most engines
All will need coils, points cleaned, and new condensers. I do not use OEM type condensers, rather electronic "orange drop" or other modern electronic caps
Likely plug wires, use WIRE core wires.
Clean the carb, often a bowl gasket, needle valve packing, and something to replace the main jet seal
New pump impeller ALWAYS
Check the lower unit. Try not to turn the engine over much, as water in the gearcase will separate. Keep the engine standing up. Open the lower plug and look for water. There's at least 8 ways for water to get into the gearcase of the older ones with the horizontal split on the case at the very bottom. Be wary of freeze damage
Try to check the engine for water intrusion. With the carb removed, shine a light and look where you can see into the far corners off the reed plate. Any visible corrosion, take the intake apart and inspect into the crank case. Inspect into the plug holes.
It is VERY easy to get water into the cylinders/ crankcase. ANY water remaining in the cooling system or lower leg, if the thing is put down horizontal, and especially if allowed to "tip" with the power head kinda low, water can run out of the cooling port where it enters the lower leg, and roll up into the exhaust ports and into the cylinders. I've had engines that were stored "on their backs" and rain, other/ etc got down through the carb float.
Rotate the engine with the plugs out. ANY roughness in the rotation, and also 'rock' it in both directions a few degrees, looking for play in the rod bearings---the newer otuboard will have needle bearing rod bearings and all of that, the rods, cylinder liners, needle bearings and crank journals, CAN RUST with the slightest amount of water in there.
I have NEVER found a really definative figure on compression. They must be close to equal, and I've got one engine that seems to run just fine, but showed only maybe 75??psi or so compression.
DO NOT set the points by gap. Set the points to set the TIMING. If you need help with that I can give you some pointers. I have a timing tool for some engines, but there is a workaround, just a little more time, and a bit more clumsy
