Percolation? Heat soak? Don't drive during summer??

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I told you the master here has already said it's not a fuel problem...
No I agree his problem isnt fuel related completely but that certainly will help later down the road. And if he is replacing it anyway why not do it now.
 
In a stock fuel system where/how do you add this magic fuel filter?
You can't. You'll need to add a return line that goes back to the gas tank. And change the gas tank sending unit to one that has a place to attach the return line. (I looked at all that and decided it wasn't worth the effort. Replaced tank and sending unit, with an electric in-tank pump from Tanks, Inc. Then installed a bypass regulator at the carb, so it always gets cool fuel. Sends whatever it doesn't use back to the tank. A little more work, a lot more money, but it's bulletproof.)
 
It was connected to the negative post on the coil. I disconnected to see if that is what was causing the coil to fire prematurely. Which it was.

How does the green wire “fire” the coil prematurely?

It can’t. The trigger, whether it’s points, a light or a magnet fires the coil.
 
How does the green wire “fire” the coil prematurely?

It can’t. The trigger, whether it’s points, a light or a magnet fires the coil.

The previous owner who installed it probably didn't protect the wire along it's path, and now there's a big hole rubbed in the insulation causing the wire to partially ground. Partial or bad connection could cause repeated arcing. Kinda like a bad battery trying to crank which causes the relay to 'buzz' or repeatedly click...
 
The previous owner who installed it probably didn't protect the wire along it's path, and now there's a big hole rubbed in the insulation causing the wire to partially ground. Partial or bad connection could cause repeated arcing. Kinda like a bad battery trying to crank which causes the relay to 'buzz' or repeatedly click...


That I understand. But the green wire doesn’t actually trigger the firing. The switch (points, light or magnet) does that.


EDIT: a quick thought just popped into my head. I suppose it is possible that a grounded wire can trigger firing. So DD may not be on the wrong track with that. My bad for not thinking that through.
 
That I understand. But the green wire doesn’t actually trigger the firing. The switch (points, light or magnet) does that.

Correct. But the positive side of the coil gets ignition voltage, if a poorly routed wire grounds the negative post of the coil and then disconnects the coil will fire.

But you're right, it wasn't causing the "coil to fire prematurely" it was causing the "coil to be constantly energized wit a poor connection resulting in a constant barrage of sparks".
 
Before or after the fuel pump?
Electric or mechanical pump?
Mechanical pump. And after the pump. Between the carb and pump. I'm running a metal line from the pump to the filter then from the filter to the carb. The 2nd line going to the tank goes into the side port on the filter.

20200516_184043.jpg


20200625_183721.jpg
 
Before or after the fuel pump?
Electric or mechanical pump?
Here is a better pic of the return line ignore the ground I still have to redo that I just tied it up there out of the way it broke when I tried to remove it.

Screenshot_20200924-111907_Gallery.jpg
 
You can't. You'll need to add a return line that goes back to the gas tank. And change the gas tank sending unit to one that has a place to attach the return line. (I looked at all that and decided it wasn't worth the effort. Replaced tank and sending unit, with an electric in-tank pump from Tanks, Inc. Then installed a bypass regulator at the carb, so it always gets cool fuel. Sends whatever it doesn't use back to the tank. A little more work, a lot more money, but it's bulletproof.)

I ve looked at tanks inc and I really like this setup... hopefully I can hold off on my fuel system for 1yr. If so I can do this same setup because I'll be making money as a dentist at that point.
 
So the topic is heat soak, and we are talking about ignition components, and fuel return lines. Lol

The best thing that could ever happen to this car would be to bring it back to box stock.

All the add on debauchery is the reason this car doesn't run right.
 
How does the green wire “fire” the coil prematurely?

It can’t. The trigger, whether it’s points, a light or a magnet fires the coil.

Old car/ shifty install magic? Lol

That I understand. But the green wire doesn’t actually trigger the firing. The switch (points, light or magnet) does that.


EDIT: a quick thought just popped into my head. I suppose it is possible that a grounded wire can trigger firing. So DD may not be on the wrong track with that. My bad for not thinking that through.

Correct. But the positive side of the coil gets ignition voltage, if a poorly routed wire grounds the negative post of the coil and then disconnects the coil will fire.

But you're right, it wasn't causing the "coil to fire prematurely" it was causing the "coil to be constantly energized wit a poor connection resulting in a constant barrage of sparks".

I'm glad you teo figured this out because I would have been useless in explaining why my tach was causing the coil to act up lol.
 
So the topic is heat soak, and we are talking about ignition components, and fuel return lines. Lol

The best thing that could ever happen to this car would be to bring it back to box stock.

All the add on debauchery is the reason this car doesn't run right.

A shorted wire on the coil negative has nothing to do with it? :realcrazy:
Box stock is for boring old guys stuck in the past.
 
I ve looked at tanks inc and I really like this setup... hopefully I can hold off on my fuel system for 1yr. If so I can do this same setup because I'll be making money as a dentist at that point.

Fix the A/C first ;)
 
You do not need a fuel return line. You need to look at your cooling system.

Have you ever checked your radiator ?
Is it clean and flowing properly ?
Do you have the correct water pump for an AC car with the correct AC water pump pulley ?
Do you know the water pump is functioning properly ?
Do you have the correct fan, fan spacing ?
Do you have a fan shroud ?
Timing set properly ? 12-34 for your mild engine.
Water passages in the block flowing properly ?
Thermostat ?..In Vegas, run a 160.
These are things you should be looking at for your car running hot. These cars from the factory, box stock, use to run through the hot deserts at full tilt boogie without a hiccup.
 
A shorted wire on the coil negative has nothing to do with it? :realcrazy:
Box stock is for boring old guys stuck in the past.

Dude, the green wire to the coil is from the tach !!!!! When are you going to get that through your head ? :realcrazy:

The so called other wire grounded to the chassis is part of the debauchery. Who does that ? That should have raised red flags months ago.

Talk **** about box stock, a least it would be able to make it to the ice cream parlor. :realcrazy:
 
You do not need a fuel return line. You need to look at your cooling system.

Have you ever checked your radiator ?
Is it clean and flowing properly ?
Do you have the correct water pump for an AC car with the correct AC water pump pulley ?
Do you know the water pump is functioning properly ?
Do you have the correct fan, fan spacing ?
Do you have a fan shroud ?
Timing set properly ? 12-34 for your mild engine.
Water passages in the block flowing properly ?
Thermostat ?..In Vegas, run a 160.
These are things you should be looking at for your car running hot. These cars from the factory, box stock, use to run through the hot deserts at full tilt boogie without a hiccup.
I agree with the cooling system. 210 or 220 is way to hot even idling.
 
Dude, the green wire to the coil is from the tach !!!!! When are you going to get that through your head ? :realcrazy:

The so called other wire grounded to the chassis is part of the debauchery. Who does that ? That should have raised red flags months ago.

Talk **** about box stock, a least it would be able to make it to the ice cream parlor. :realcrazy:

You've obviously missed a huge portion of the thread.
The green wire is likely shorted to chassis ground caused by poor routing by the previous owner. Is it really that tough to understand?
The unhooked engine ground has zero to do with anything. It should be hooked up, but won't change a single thing about it, and has nothing to do with any of the other parts changes/additions.

Box stock, these cars are garbage - wouldn't want to drive a stock one around the block, let alone to get ice cream.
 
You do not need a fuel return line. You need to look at your cooling system.

Have you ever checked your radiator ?
Is it clean and flowing properly ?
Do you have the correct water pump for an AC car with the correct AC water pump pulley ?
Do you know the water pump is functioning properly ?
Do you have the correct fan, fan spacing ?
Do you have a fan shroud ?
Timing set properly ? 12-34 for your mild engine.
Water passages in the block flowing properly ?
Thermostat ?..In Vegas, run a 160.
These are things you should be looking at for your car running hot. These cars from the factory, box stock, use to run through the hot deserts at full tilt boogie without a hiccup.

Answers to all this are already listed in the previous pages.
 
Box stock, these cars are garbage - wouldn't want to drive a stock one around the block, let alone to get ice cream.

Interesting...I bet Dental Dart would disagree with you. Getting ice cream with his kid is all he wants to do right now, but he can't because he listens to guys like you. :rolleyes:
 
Interesting...I bet Dental Dart would disagree with you. Getting ice cream with his kid is all he wants to do right now, but he can't because he listens to guys like you. :rolleyes:

Guys like me that have helped him find his ignition fault.
Meanwhile that waste of money on a fuel line that had nothing to do with anything hasn't helped his car run any longer.
 
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