Percolation? Heat soak? Don't drive during summer??

-
70scatpack said:
Try a gas station near a marina since a lot of boats still have to use non ethanol fuel
Click to expand...

That's a long drive from his neighborhood! LOL. The non-E truckstops are closer, but still not close. Luckily it seems the issue may not be fuel related but was ignition related. We'll soon find out more.
 
j par said:
I'm more of the school of heat kills...
Now I wouldn't want to go run in my car at 80 degrees or anything like that but if I could keep my car at a hundred and sixty-to 170 all day long I wouldn't be freaked out about it.. it's my understanding that he breaks down the viscosity of the oil? Just like your transmission the cooler you keep it the longer it will last.. (I was talking automatic there I don't have one)..
Just food for conversation not trying to argue with you...
Click to expand...
I did have an engine that was pushing oil temps in the pan to 280 - 290 F on long interstate runs. Oil breakdown was a concern - I was using racing oil - should have been using synthetic racing oil but thats another story...
My understanding, mostly from Widman's paper, is that high temperture high shear conditions break down oils. High temperature alone isn't a huge problem until the oil is pushing something like 300 degree. Generally oil temperatures are close to coolant temperatures, but on my Barracuda I installed an oil temperature gage because it was a specific concern with that engine setup.
Viscosity at 160 to 170 can be significantly higher than at 200 F. If you want to run colder engine temps, the target viscosity can be obtained by using lower viscosity oils. But the lower viscosity oils tend to have poorer High Temp High Shear which can be imprtant with high valve spring pressures. As usual trade offs need to be balanced.
The other reason to get the oil up close to 212*F is to get rid of the condensation that formed inside the engine.

Here's viscosity vs temperature for four grades of oil listed in the '68 FSM.
upload_2020-9-25_18-42-52.png


This illustrate the difference on viscosity between an oil at 160 F and 200 F.
The 5W-20 was only for use in cold weather - consistantly under 10* F. Its probably safe to say that the minimum acceptable viscosity was around 8 centiStoke.
10 to 20 cSt was probably the target operating range.
 
RammerJammer75 said:
What speed are you cruising at when it was 205? The wind speed overcomes the fan around 30 (give or take a few), so if you're in that range it could indicate an inefficient fan/shroud setup.
Click to expand...

Lol idk... i accidently pulled out my speedo and couldn't get it plugged back in last time i tried. Probably in the 10-45 mph range, definitely no faster than 60, with lots of stop signs and slowing down to turn around.
 
RammerJammer75 said:
Does it have a 160 thermostat? I wouldn't be worried about that at all. But the OP's car seems to have an issue somewhere in the coolant system.
Click to expand...

No, its 180 or 190 with me leaning more towards the 190 thermostst. It was one of the first things I replaced with the wp. I have a brand new 180 sitting in the bag though that I may install.
 
I have 20w-50 because of high zinc content and hot vegas weather. Also because I read on FABO many people think its good oil. Oil is brand new... only used to break in camshaft and testing. This was the 2nd oil change in 400ish miles.
 
Basically normal behavior.
Fixing little things, like the corrogated hose, tuning, etc will probably add up to small improvement in heat reduction and cooling.
 
DentalDart said:
Lol idk... i accidently pulled out my speedo and couldn't get it plugged back in last time i tried. Probably in the 10-45 mph range, definitely no faster than 60, with lots of stop signs and slowing down to turn around.
Click to expand...
You accidentally pulled out your Speedo?!!.... And couldn't get it plugged back in....:eek:..
Screenshot_20200925-170015.png
 
RammerJammer75 said:
Sorry man, I was actually asking Jpar. If you have a 195, it still shouldn't get to 230 while idling.
Click to expand...
I have a 160 thermostat but it's gutted...
More like a restrictor if anything...
I don't want the water passing through the radiator too fast and not exchanging...
 
The thermostat does not control the highest temperature your engine will see. Just the opposite. It controls the lowest temperature it will see. The 180° thermostat opens at about 180 and stays open as long as the water stays above 180°. If the temperature goes someplace below 180°, the thermostat will start to close. The idea is to keep the engine above 180° at all times. How high it goes above 180° depends on how screwed up the engine and/or the cooling system is. But your highest temperature is not controlled by the thermostat.
 
Phreakish said:
That was after shutdown.
Click to expand...
OP stated this was before it shutdown.
DentalDart said:
So... good news and bad news... maybe bad news???

I just drove the car for about 30-35 minutes, after letting it warm up for 5-10 minutes (it usually dies before then)... The car didn't die, thats good news right?

Most of the driving was stop and go, also pretty slow around the neighborhood and then up and down the street in front of the neighborhood, only romped on the gas a couple of times. The car stayed around 205-208* which I dont like. When I parked it and let it idle before shutting it off the car started getting up there in temp.

Here is a picture of the local weather and the mechanical guage that is hooked up to my intake manifold. (Maybe it gets a little radiation heat from that too?) My guage in the dash wasn't to bad, but some people say thats not accurate.

Also my fuel pressure guage picture and a picture of the new fuel filter. Its just the spectre one while waiting for the wix to come in... the fuel pressure guage read right about 6.7-6.8 psi before driving around, then at 5 psi when i stopped to check it while driving around...

The carb, fuel line and everything is much hotter today after driving it than it was yesterday but the car didn't give me any problems at all...

View attachment 1715600532

View attachment 1715600533

View attachment 1715600534

View attachment 1715600535

View attachment 1715600536
Click to expand...
 
Mattax said:
I did have an engine that was pushing oil temps in the pan to 280 - 290 F on long interstate runs. Oil breakdown was a concern - I was using racing oil - should have been using synthetic racing oil but thats another story...
My understanding, mostly from Widman's paper, is that high temperture high shear conditions break down oils. High temperature alone isn't a huge problem until the oil is pushing something like 300 degree. Generally oil temperatures are close to coolant temperatures, but on my Barracuda I installed an oil temperature gage because it was a specific concern with that engine setup.
Viscosity at 160 to 170 can be significantly higher than at 200 F. If you want to run colder engine temps, the target viscosity can be obtained by using lower viscosity oils. But the lower viscosity oils tend to have poorer High Temp High Shear which can be imprtant with high valve spring pressures. As usual trade offs need to be balanced.
The other reason to get the oil up close to 212*F is to get rid of the condensation that formed inside the engine.

Here's viscosity vs temperature for four grades of oil listed in the '68 FSM.
View attachment 1715600978

This illustrate the difference on viscosity between an oil at 160 F and 200 F.
The 5W-20 was only for use in cold weather - consistantly under 10* F. Its probably safe to say that the minimum acceptable viscosity was around 8 centiStoke.
10 to 20 cSt was probably the target operating range.
Click to expand...


EXACTLY. I’m at 170 now with a 5W30 and I’m going to drop down to a 0W20 and a 160 thermostat.

You can’t just start dropping coolant temps without looking at all the systems and accounting for them.
 
yellow rose said:
EXACTLY. I’m at 170 now with a 5W30 and I’m going to drop down to a 0W20 and a 160 thermostat.

You can’t just start dropping coolant temps without looking at all the systems and accounting for them.
Click to expand...

So would it be beneficial to run a lower viscosity oil? I thought I read the thicker viscosity oil was beter in warmer climates, plus the 20w50 is the only viscosity in the Vr1 at the auto store.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top