ChargedDart75
Well-Known Member
I thought they had one in Vegas. My mistake. Anyway, our local O'Reilly auto can order VR1 in 10w-30, so that may be worth a shot.
Percolation? Heat soak? Don't drive during summer??
- Thread starter DentalDart
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j par
Well-hung Member
If I'm not mistaken @70aarcuda buys whatever flavor Walmart oil he can find in the viscosity he wants and ads a 4-ounce vial of zddp.... Myself I'm more of the school of the manufacture didn't go through all that testing to make the perfect formula and then I go ahead and try and think I'm going to outsmart them and make my own formula LOL... There's got to be at least 10 other oils out there that also have zddp in them.. but I'm sure the one that you use is more easily gotten at the local parts store... With all that said I would be much more much More much More looking at your fan... and that's the reason I really want to know what temperature your cars at when you're going down the freeway for 20 minutes at a steady speed. If it's all good and dandy at speed for a long while that's going to be the catalyst for a circulation problem of air when you're not going at speed..
j par
Well-hung Member
Well since you only change your oil probably once every 6 months or less likely cuz you don't put that much mileage on it I'm sure that can be tagged onto $100 order for free shipping. What you got I can only imagine would be there the next day since you're so close. I think I'm about 12 hours away from Reno and Portland Oregon and I get my stuff the next day in general if they have it in stock.
Myself 15/40
ChargedDart75
Well-Known Member
Two cases (6 quarts) of VR1 is about 100 bucks, so that would be at least two oil changes and free shipping.
j par
Well-hung Member
So now that we went 19 pages and 27 different avenues for the same problem we're on oil viscosity now...
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
ChargedDart75
Well-Known Member
Talk about a thread derailment lol
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
After post #442 I completely forgot what we was even talking about! Something else is overheating now! Haha
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I’d find something in a 10W40 or if you’re really into emptying your pockets, you can use a 5W40 100% synthetic and it can’t be a cheap oil. When the spread between the winter grade and the 212*F grade is that big, the additive package and even the base oil (which is the Winter grade and the additive package makes up the high side) has to be very good (and that ain’t cheap) or the oil will have a short life, and it won’t take long before it’s job.
In fact, a very good 5W30 would work for you, but again, that ain’t cheap.
The Driven oils are damn good for their price point. I can’t remember what it is, but I think 7 or 8 bucks a quart so it’s not outrageous.
Since I run a 5W30 and I’m dropping down to a 0W20, the oil I use is double damn expensive. I think it’s 22 bucks a quart.
That’s a lot, but I’m going WAY down in grade, plus I’m running a pretty aggressive solid flat tappet lobe, so I don’t mind paying it.
The Driven should be more inline with what you need, but not a 20 winter grade and not a 50 grade, unless you’re clearances are outrageously loose. Like .003 or more.
Geez guy, stop letting all these morons derail you. If you're trying to look at lower viscosity oil to run cooler, here's a hint....YOU HAVE SOMETHING WRONG. Your build is very mild, much like a stock build. You DON'T need a lighter grade oil to help it run cooler. You need to FIND what's wrong and FIX IT.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Lighter oil came up with regard to running super low operating temps, that's all. @DentalDart isn't going to lower his temps with an oil change! LOL
Right now it just needs some miles to help figure out where issues exist. 205-208 in stop and go isn't that bad and may in fact be fine. But if it stays cool at sustained speed, then it may be that a better fan situation would make his car that much more bulletproof.
Right now it just needs some miles to help figure out where issues exist. 205-208 in stop and go isn't that bad and may in fact be fine. But if it stays cool at sustained speed, then it may be that a better fan situation would make his car that much more bulletproof.
j par
Well-hung Member
Shut up dummy...
that is all, let these other guru's change your mind.myself I run VR1 20/50 during the summer months in N Idaho .
I believe Chrysler recommended 20/50 for hot summer temps back in the day.
j par
Well-hung Member
I don't care who you are that's funny...
The overheating problem is because of his oil viscosity in his stock build... LOL..
Trust me, that's how I feel. We got all these "geniuses" on here just sendin the guy down damned rabbit holes. A lighter oil to make it run cooler? Seriously? My big old butt.
j par
Well-hung Member
Amateur Guru in training...
myself I run VR1 20/50 during the summer months in N Idaho .
I believe Chrysler recommended 20/50 for hot summer temps back in the day.
j par
Well-hung Member
First you do know that the Op does thrive on derailment.... but he seems to be sorting it out and getting to the good meat of our conversation... Trust me I'm still trying to get the tears out of my eyes from laughing so hard about the recommendation of a lighter oil viscosity solving his overheating issues if he has any....
I think he derailed himself. LOL.
From what I've gathered in the last relevant posts including yours, is this:
It does appear in the photos that the cooling system has no recovery tank and a universal top hose. Those a minor things that can help capacity and flow a little bit.
It's not running excessively hot.
It's not a loose build or have very high spring pressure but is in a hot climate. 10W-40 would probably be more appropriate than 20W-50 at the next oil change or purchase.
Something is up in the electrical system and still needs to be checked out sooner than later. That's far more improtant than worrying about coolant temps that are basically normal.
I'm not sure it's derailment as much as it's ADHD. LMAO
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
myself I run VR1 20/50 during the summer months in N Idaho .
I believe Chrysler recommended 20/50 for hot summer temps back in the day.
Me too, because I run a 195 stay and can see 200 with extended idling.
If running stock like temps, nothing wrong with 20w50 when it's warm. The proper grade becomes more important with low temp thermostats though (assuming the engine stays at the stat temp).
Someone recently posted a paper on oil viscosity, temperature, and how they interplay. The big take away was that thicker grades MUST be warmed up before they begin to offer their best shear and high pressure protection. That lighter grades warm faster and begin offering metal to metal protection much quicker. It's basically why new cars can be cold started and hammered on right away with no notable increase in wear.. And how they stay running even when they shut off and restart at every damn light (such a dumb feature..).
He's just baiting me into taking more photos from various Owners Manuals. LOL.
Sorry. Done with that. But here's a screen shot from a digitzed '70 Plymouth FSM.
For normal use
Now if you're going to run Stock car racing or the Silver State Classic, that's another story...
j par
Well-hung Member
I pressed my "show ignored content" button at the bottom of the page then went through and found out where the problem was...
j par
Well-hung Member
A car Guru in training he is..
And instigating Guru for sure...
Oh j par........ lol keep on 
I actually have really bad adhd, I'm prescribed 60mg a day... i don't take it all though because I dont like to take medication, especially that much medication all day long.
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