ProComp/Speedmaster aluminum heads

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Cudafever said:
no water to the heater core and no thermostat and not street driven. my electric water pump turn way slow but keep things under control at the track.........may not work on the street......
Set the water pump impeller tight to the timing cover by having a 1/4" plate of alu welded in and then machined back so the impeller just slightly scraped the timing housing with out a gasket. Threw a gasket on it and never looked back. I moves a lot of water.......but not so good if you have to run a t stat.
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What temp are you running the engine at?
 
j par said:
I was so tempted to put my electric water pump back on.. it seemed to move quite a bit of water.. but the majority of the driving it sees in the summer is on the street. I've been aiming towards being able to take it on longer trips and I just felt a mechanical pump would be more dependable in the long run... I personally run distilled water with a bottle of redline water wetter, a gutted thermostat, and no bypass... It's a remanufactured water pump, but it has a pentagon on it and has serial numbers for some fancy 340 car...
I took the heater core and heater box out years ago and never look back. I don't drive it except for on nice days...
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Its a stock modified(impeller) water pump with a electric/belt driven motor.
 
Electric fans are Grate.......once i quit worries about amps and focused on air flow......I'ts also when i put my alt back on.
90% of the electric fans on the market are ****. I know, i bought a few of the cheap single jobber before i got the duel high flow fans from Be Cool
 
Cudafever said:
Electric fans are Grate.......once i quit worries about amps and focused on air flow......I'ts also when i put my alt back on.
90% of the electric fans on the market are ****. I know, i bought a few of the cheap single jobber before i got the duel high flow fans from Be Cool
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My cooling problems mostly ended when I got the biggest 2 row aluminum radiator that would fit between the frame rails and not hit the hood LOL...
 
j par said:
My cooling problems mostly ended when I got the biggest 2 row aluminum radiator that would fit between the frame rails and not hit the hood LOL...
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Is your stuff up and running yet? Word is it’s raining it’s guts out over there. I can smell the rain is coming my way right now.
 
yellow rose said:
Is your stuff up and running yet? Word is it’s raining it’s guts out over there. I can smell the rain is coming my way right now.
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Yes it's raining like crazy. But that's fine. The last three days I wanted to do something when I came home from work but it was hot out and I knew I had Sunday through Wednesday off. And it was going to be cool so I've got the next few days to start clicking things together... Again it's just sitting in there on the mount pads for the engine and a couple of the transmission crossmember bolts holding the transmission up.
I'll start underneath tomorrow, Driveline tranny crossmember shift linkage motor mounts zbar starter...
I might have to shift the motor a little towards the driver side to get the header off the passenger side torsion bar. I need to put the gaskets in and tighten down the headers those are just dangling by a couple bolts on each side to keep them in place. Then the big question mark if the exhaust will fit to the headers. they're both cheap Summit headers but they may have changed manufacturers since 5 years ago and of course these are the ceramic coated ones. So far buy eye ball they look close but we'll see...
 
moparmandan said:
Do you remember brand or model #'s?
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I just got pm'ed the same question. It's 19 and 1/2 inch high and 27 in wide. I believe it's a cross-flow. It's just a cheap Summit aluminum 2 row radiator. It's not direct fit. I made some l brackets for the bottom for it to fit in and one for the top. It doesn't have a pretty top it's more of a GM style, need some kind of cap on top of it to make it look good...
 
yellow rose said:
Ain’t that the truth! My junk breaks parked in the garage and then falls apart just sitting there.
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Well it came apart and 12 hours and the motor was on the stand and taking apart as well. LOL now getting it all put back together with new parts no less is not going to happen that quickly LOL.
 
j par said:
Well it came apart and 12 hours and the motor was on the stand and taking apart as well. LOL now getting it all put back together with new parts no less is not going to happen that quickly LOL.
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LOL That's what happens when you polish every nut and bolt to make it look pretty.
Detail is your pet peeve, make it look good and run good. :thumbsup:
 
j par said:
Well it came apart and 12 hours and the motor was on the stand and taking apart as well. LOL now getting it all put back together with new parts no less is not going to happen that quickly LOL.
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If you think you are having issues wait till I update my 408 build post about issues I’ve had with these moved rockerarm Edelbrock heads. Cheese and rice.
 
oldkimmer said:
Did u try ur W2 ex rockers on the Procomps? I’m thinking of the same set up. I don’t have rockets but I can get some. Kim.
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No I haven't, really wish I would have just kept my W2 heads, live and learn...
 
Long day under the car... I think I got 90% of the under car stuff done...
Driveline, transmission crossmember bolts, oil filter, passenger side header, then the first problem the passenger header was a couple inches longer than the previous one.. I was able to tweak the exhaust mount, but I still need address that as I'm not feeling there'll be a good seal at the collector.. then of course the passenger side torsion bar wanted to touch the exhaust so I put a quarter-inch shim under the passenger side motor mount mount. Starter, z bar, passenger side tie rod end steering knuckle needed connecting backup as that of course has to go through the driver side header.. starter, dust cover, transmission dust shield, driver side exhaust pipe which that fit pretty well back how it was. Then the floor hump for the for speed and the vertigate shifter, linkage, put the carpet back down....
 
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