Project Cheap & Nasty Updated With Back Story

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Jeremiah (jd) said:
Are you insinuating that slotting the holes in the base plate at an angle will not work? I was thinking of how the blp and qft base plates that fit both 4150 and 4500 are. You could humor me with some measurements off of that intake LOL
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They aren't slotted on the bottom. They're dedicated to the Carter BBD pattern. Whatever the Carter BBD pattern is, that's what the intake pattern is.
 
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Jeremiah (jd) said:
Are you insinuating that slotting the holes in the base plate at an angle will not work? I was thinking of how the blp and qft base plates that fit both 4150 and 4500 are. You could humor me with some measurements off of that intake LOL
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There are 2 size BBD's, the larger one looks nothing like the 'teener one, it has the same pattern as the Holley 2210/2245. The bolt pattern is unique to them.
 
Large-venturi BBD;
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Cheap & Nasty, that's how I had to make the adapter when I did it to put a 2245 Holley on My SuperSix intake. I decided to slot the base plate in the 2245 to match the smaller BBD at the throttle end to keep the throttle & kickdown stuff where it belonged, and let the inside end hang over with all-thread studs in the right spot, shifted a bit forward. Only problem is the base material needed filler there, iron & aluminum. The Al intake was 1.5 10ths quicker, for whatever reason, just was.
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Killer6 said:
Cheap & Nasty, that's how I had to make the adapter when I did it to put a 2245 Holley on My SuperSix intake. I decided to slot the base plate in the 2245 to match the smaller BBD at the throttle end to keep the throttle & kickdown stuff where it belonged, and let the inside end hang over with all-thread studs in the right spot, shifted a bit forward. Only problem is the base material needed filler there, iron & aluminum. The Al intake was 1.5 10ths quicker, for whatever reason, just was.
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Cool! How'd it work?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Cool! How'd it work?
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Great, but without the right stall converter, I cut the throttle shaft in half....blocked the Pass. shooter, & put a VS Pot on it. Worked much better, after rejetting, it posted the time slips in My 'Glimpse of the Past' thread. I really wish I'd have come up with a proper 904 converter for it back then, but.....
BTW, that carb was rated @385cfm@3"Hg, or ~[email protected]"Hg., the good thing about the 2245 vs 2210, there's a plug You can yank to reveal the adj. screw to tune the PV spring tension.
 
Cheap & Nasty now has a completed cylinder head. Turned out good.
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RustyRatRod said:
So how cheap & nasty is cheap & nasty gonna be? Before I answer that, here's my first mod. See that hole in the middle of the main oil passage plug? It's a little big, ain't it? That's cause it's a beeotch to drill a .040" hole without the bit breaking. So, my solution is to tap it to 1/4 x 32 UNF and screw a Holley .040" main jet into it. Problem solved and the timing chain now has pressurized oil.
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Now on to the cheapness.
Here's one of the original 1966 date coded main bearings.
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Purdy, ain't it? They all are just that good. So are all of the rod bearings. So yeah, you guessed it. They're goin back in.

Here is cheap & nasty sittin on one of the dollies I made from a Harbor Freight furniture dolly. I got several on sale when they were under 10 bucks each. I reinforced the crap out of all of them with 1 x 4s and came back over those with a piece of 3/4" plywood. I have two more to do. Thanks to @krazykuda for that. Thanks Karl!
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The Harbor Freight dollies are handy, but a few of mine have been infested with termites. Anyone else have issues with these???
 
Sorry yall. I'm havin a bad few health days here so this is gettin postponed till I feel better.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Actually, there's none. They were striped green originally. They were in a box when I painted the head. lol
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what kinda surgical suite you operating out of over there man? don'tcha know when ya paint a motor yer supposed to paint everything? stops the insides from rusting too!

besides, that's how the customer knows you rebuilt it!
 
I felt good enough today to get Cheap & Nasty's block out and pressure wash it for the last time after all the honing. It has a few pits in the bottom of a couple of cylinders, but it's gonna ride. OReilly sold me the wrong rear main seal. No surprise there. The correct one will be here tomorrow, so maybe I can get started on assembly.
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Got Cheap & Nasty's pistons rung. Remember when I always say to hawk ebay for OLD NOS USA made engine parts? Check out the green and white box of Pacific rings. "For power and speed". LOL

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Upon closer inspection, the rod bearings are pitted here and there. I cannot let that much cheap & nasty slide, so it's gettin new rod bearings. The good news is, I have a STD set. Yay.
 
Jeremiah (jd) said:
You don't need a machine shop to clean up that head surface. Use the concrete floor or use the side of a 8-12" grinding wheel. A liberal dose of wd40 will help displace the swarf.

It's not right by today's standards. Or yesterday's for that matter. Back when all we had was rent money and book money (school) we fixed plenty of engines using farmer tricks of days gone by.
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My old neighbor told me they would chain cylinder heads and pull it down the street with the tail gate open and his buddy siting on the tail gate using his feet to push the cylinder head down lol cheap head milling.
 
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