Project DART VADER

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HemiDenny said:
we can probably steal 1/2" of that 3/4".....then raise the motor/trans/ect another 1"max....which would give you a total of 1.5"ground and put the driveline 1" higher

thoughts???
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i actually measured 7/8in-15/16in. 3/4 is alot for clearence. the tubing on the front of the rack sits under the crossmember. that will play a factor too.
 
I plan on changing the whole set-up....raising the entire crossbar w/rack and lower contol arm pivot
 
plan on raising the crossbar 1.5".....but the motor perches only 1"
 
actually , your oil pan will hang 1/2" lower than it is now in comparison to the crossbar....but the crossbar will be 1.5" higher off the ground
 
on the control arms...think about it this way...the spindle is NOT changing height....so the uppers (inner pivot on frame/ball joint) stay in the same spot...and the lower ball joint stays at the same height/location...only change in the control arms is raising (1.5") the lower control arm INNER pivot point and putting it in its NEW correct location in relationship to the rack.
 
HemiDenny said:
on the control arms...think about it this way...the spindle is NOT changing height....so the uppers (inner pivot on frame/ball joint) stay in the same spot...and the lower ball joint stays at the same height/location...only change in the control arms is raising (1.5") the lower control arm INNER pivot point and putting it in its NEW correct location in relationship to the rack.
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Well a new prototype is in the works. i wanted a lil more ground clearence. figured 2.25 inches wasnt enough under the rack bushings. so now shoulbe be arround 4in evevryware.
 
well i got the car back in the air all ready for the newest Bicycle to arrive (AKA HEMI DENNY"S NEWEST K MEMBER DESIGN,, LOUISIANA SUPER SLAMMER). Did some planning on the rear suspension, mounted the larger 10in brakes, took measurements on how much i will narrow the rear end.APROX 2-3in on each side. mounted the clutch master and pedals. started to smooth the dash as previous owner trashed it.

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cody.bourgeois said:
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so, seeing as how im going with a lakewood and tremec in my duster, i have to ask:
did you raise the driveline in the car? is that why you cut so much?

also, where did the factory t-bar crossmember come across the trans at? do you have any pictures of that area?


and im loving this build. pretty sure ive seen pics of the black chevy longbed in the mags.

michael
 
dusterbd13 said:
so, seeing as how im going with a lakewood and tremec in my duster, i have to ask:
did you raise the driveline in the car? is that why you cut so much?

also, where did the factory t-bar crossmember come across the trans at? do you have any pictures of that area?


and im loving this build. pretty sure ive seen pics of the black chevy longbed in the mags.

michael
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drive line was raised and it will be raised some more when i get the new k member. the factory t bat crossmember falls right under the rear mount butmy k member pushes the motor back an inch or so.
honestly i dont care for the lakewood bell housing.. i will be cutting the flange off the bottom and abou 1/2in off of the bell itself. i dont think it will even be fast enough to have that type of bellhousing mandatory. it hangs real low and im not bout to order some other kind unless someone wants this one. i hear the aluminum ones dont hang as low.

im ordering a prefab trans tunnel and driveshaft tunnel from kpcomponets.


thye black long bed is a ford . i been driving it alot and going to some shows.
 
What is the extra hood clearance needed for. Are you positioning the engine
that much higher in order to drop the body lower? Tall manifold? Supercharger?

I know that Denny has built Hemi cars with the same hood as your stock one
- witnessed by 62BT409's Demon Sizzler.


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DR HEMI said:
What is the extra hood clearance needed for. Are you positioning the engine
that much higher in order to drop the body lower? Tall manifold? Supercharger?

I know that Denny has built Hemi cars with the same hood as your stock one
- witnessed by 62BT409's Demon Sizzler.


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M1 intake and 3in-4in filter and ultra low ground clearence. tucking everything up under the car with 3.5-4in ride height.
denny and i have it all figures out. And im doing all this with 26-27in tall front tires and 28ish backs.
 
started cutting out a few frame connector pieces. will build a crossmemeber also to stiffen up the back, this will double as attaching points for my 4link aslo

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Just went through your thread and wow. Your building from the front back I'm building from the back forward hopefully we meet in the middle. Cool build sir.
 
I started in the middle. :cheers:
Can't come close to what you guys are doing though :prayer:
 
Idaho said:
I started in the middle. :cheers:
Can't come close to what you guys are doing though :prayer:
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Idaho if you had any idea how tight I am with my wallet and how small of a budget I'm working on you would rethink that statement. Anyone can do what we are doing and pull it off if you have some mechanical skills.
 
did some test fitting with the old style shockwaves. its gona be tight to make this work with out adding track width, and a C in the frame will have to be cut in looks like. Hemidenny and i will figure it out. i still think the 8000series shockwaves would work tho.


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Yeah but a little notch won't kill us. What I don't get is why does it for with a alter k yet with ours it is so tight.
 
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