nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Well.... very good progress. Congrats!
It is easy enough to check the timing using the info provided with just removing the valve cover and accurately finding TDC on #1 with a TDC tool that goes into the spark plug hole. (You can make one yourself with an old plug and a tap and a long threaded soft bolt, like a carriage bolt.) Do that to make sure that is or is not an issue, since you just replaced the chain.
Is the idle down where it should be now? The condenser fixed one ignition issue and the correct ballast made the spark energy and thus the idle a lot better.
Where is the points gap set at? Should be .017 to .023", and the points contacts should be smooth on both sides; if there is any roughness or metal build up on either of the 2 points contacts, then use emery cloth to smooth them; a bad condenser can make the points transfer metal from one side to the other and rough points contact will cause irregular spark . Also, take the spark rotor off and see if the if distributor shaft wobbles sideways a lot; try to move it towards and away from the points rubbing block. If the shaft or bushings are worn, then it could be changing the points gap dramatically and that will change the points dwell and that causes the charge of the coil to vary over the map. A few thousandths wobble, up to .005" or so, would be OK.
When you say the engine dies after about 10 seconds of idle, if is shuts off suddenly, then this typically indicates an ignition problem.
Put your voltmeter on the blue wire to the ballast and monitor the voltage. It should stay around 12v idling. When the engine dies, see if this stays near 12v or drops close to 0. If it drops close to 0, then something is wrong in the ignition switch or the wiring and connections from it to the ballast.
Sounds like you are a good candidate for an HEI upgrade if you don't want to keep the points system for some reason. (I keep mine for the sake of having a 98-99% original car.) The HEI will be give better spark.
It is easy enough to check the timing using the info provided with just removing the valve cover and accurately finding TDC on #1 with a TDC tool that goes into the spark plug hole. (You can make one yourself with an old plug and a tap and a long threaded soft bolt, like a carriage bolt.) Do that to make sure that is or is not an issue, since you just replaced the chain.
Is the idle down where it should be now? The condenser fixed one ignition issue and the correct ballast made the spark energy and thus the idle a lot better.
Where is the points gap set at? Should be .017 to .023", and the points contacts should be smooth on both sides; if there is any roughness or metal build up on either of the 2 points contacts, then use emery cloth to smooth them; a bad condenser can make the points transfer metal from one side to the other and rough points contact will cause irregular spark . Also, take the spark rotor off and see if the if distributor shaft wobbles sideways a lot; try to move it towards and away from the points rubbing block. If the shaft or bushings are worn, then it could be changing the points gap dramatically and that will change the points dwell and that causes the charge of the coil to vary over the map. A few thousandths wobble, up to .005" or so, would be OK.
When you say the engine dies after about 10 seconds of idle, if is shuts off suddenly, then this typically indicates an ignition problem.
Put your voltmeter on the blue wire to the ballast and monitor the voltage. It should stay around 12v idling. When the engine dies, see if this stays near 12v or drops close to 0. If it drops close to 0, then something is wrong in the ignition switch or the wiring and connections from it to the ballast.
Sounds like you are a good candidate for an HEI upgrade if you don't want to keep the points system for some reason. (I keep mine for the sake of having a 98-99% original car.) The HEI will be give better spark.