R/B 413 Super Stock Valiant Signet Project

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Ok, so I have the V8 Center Link in hand. I'm going to try to find the time to put it in this week after work one evening, but mounting the motor plate will have to wait until next week. We teach a Winter Tech series at the shop one Sunday a month, and this Sunday is it. Maybe after class on Sunday. I don't know that I'll be able to wait. :D
 
sound like it ill be pretty sweet once your done. I have a 64 valiant that im putting a 62 413 max wedge in too.
 
I'd rather not if I can help it. The only way you can save space with one is to run a hydraulic throwout bearing. And although there are some nice ones out there, they can all fail. And if it does, you're taking the trans out to fix it.
 
oh. i see. this is all new to me. thanks for the info. if i did the swap, i would be looking for a push button 727 so i could keep my push buttons. :-D do you think keeping an automatic would make more room or less for the exhaust. oh im also running manual steering and brakes.
oh and on the mounts. schumaker makes a kit to put an RB in an early A
 
So, I have the V8 Center Link in. And there's a bit of a snag. At full steering, the link hits the pan where it sweeps up to the idler arm and to the pitman arm on the drivers side. It's not much, and I can't go up any more with the motor or I'll be in the floor where the transmission bolts to the bellhousing. I'd like at least a 1/4 inch between the floor and any part of the motor/bell/trans.

So, here are my options as I see them:

1. Heat up the pitman arm and idler arm and lower the center link's height in the car. I see this as an absolute last option, as it will affect the cars steering when going over a bump.

2. Cut away the oil pan only in the area it would need to clear the center link. The pan that's on the motor is not the one I'll be using, and it's dented. So it's no loss to try this one. If I'm right, there will be ample clearance in the pan at the edges to scallop it enough for the center link to clear by 3/16" or so, and still clear the rotating assembly. The motor plate will not allow the motor to rock or move in any way, so this seems the best option. I only need 1/4 to 3/8" I think at the area where it hits, and it'll only penetrate the pan crosswise about an inch. But the scallop will taper away to nothing as it gets closer to the end of the scallop at the center.

3. There's some "mystery" pan that will do everything I need with no welding.

You can see in this image that I found that the rotating assembly doesn't really hang out of the block that far, so I think option #2 will work fine.

CheckingCrankClearences.jpg
 
There are some "C" body pans that have a dimple for the idler arm. 187 comes to mind, but don't hold me to it.
 
Upon further examination, I'm a dummy. I didn't realize RB engine has something like 6 or 7 different oil pans. So it looks like the 187 pan, or a non-stamped oil pan from a '65 B body would work fine. Now just to find one.

Or alter the one I have. I can weld after all. :D
 
I had a buddy bring over a pan. It looks like it'll work. If not, I'll do some surgery on the one that's on the car and "help" it to fit like a glove.

I also ordered up the material to put the anchor plates in for the cage so I can get started on it.
 
One of two pans may work for ya. They are a 187 or a 699. Just happen to have a few hanging on the wall. Just out of curiosity, what is the difference in the lower end on a max wedge 413 and a plain 413? I do have a 62 dated 413 bought specifially for the 62, two door post Belvedere, setting out back. Was also able to come up with an STR 14 and still gathering stuff for the 62. Would like to know the diff in the lower ends. I see the heads you have has the transfer ports in em. You said 440 heads. 906's or which ones. One of my books show the horse power #'s on the 413 to be major stuff in 62. What numbers on the block would indicate that it is a max wedge motor? Trying to learn myself. Highest H.P. of any mopar motor of that year. Do ya think the 413 will out perform a 440 built comparable? That max wedge motor deserves a max wedge body but you can bet, that thing your building should move on down the track. I'll be watching. By the way Ray, welcome to FABO.
Small Block
 
Hey Ray,your doing what some would never do!Kudos to you for being different!:cheers:Can you post some pics of installing the rollcage as I,ll be staring mine in very near future after I finish with these dang fenderwells in my 66 Dart.:-D
 
Kool project,,hang on to those cal custom carb tops,they are getting hard to find in useable condition,,,the rat rodders are eating them up
 
I scored a 187 pan in Indiana! It's on the way. Awesome Barracuda! And next to an awesome wheel stander!

Megan has picked a name for the car, the paint will be the same as the early Hemi Under Glass, and the lettering somewhat the same. It'll be called, "Hurst's Violent Valiant". Hurst lettering the same as Hemi Under Glass, but then Violent Valiant stacked and offset, with "jumbly" lettering like some of the cars had back then.

I have a friend who's a professional artist (he does all of our renderings) who's going to do a rendering for me of the finished car. I'll post it when I get it.
 
glad u found a 187 pan so quick,,,,,,thanks,,,i was with the hemi under glas all day at the event bob riggle asked me to join him and tow him to and from the starting line,,,was a great day
 
fstfish66 said:
glad u found a 187 pan so quick,,,,,,thanks,,,i was with the hemi under glas all day at the event bob riggle asked me to join him and tow him to and from the starting line,,,was a great day
Click to expand...

Wow, that's cool. Do you have any photographs of you towing him? That would be an awesome screen saver!
 
heres the only pic i have on the puter,,,its a pic of the pic,the track sent me ,,thanks for asking

towing hemi under glass.jpg
 
I thought I'd list the weight reduction numbers of parts I'm changing for aluminum:

Stock iron 4bbl manifold with Carter AFB and coil: 44#
Stock iron water pump housing with water pump: 21#
Stock iron cylinder head: 62# ea.


Aluminum "Stealth" head: 22# ea.
 
How well does that Quick time bellhousing fit the tunnel?

Any interference at all?

Did you have to beat back the seam?

What are you doing about clutch linkage?

Thanks,
Mike
 
well i havent tried the quick time bell,,but i currently have an old schoool ansen,,and it fits great,,ide have to lok to see if i had to beat the seam or not been 25 years since that lol,,,,,but the way the quick time is made very round and not bulky like a lake wood im sure you may only have to modify the seam at the very top area if at all,,,,
 
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