If you let it semi harden in the air a bit it will take less dips. The one pictured Is for the under hood. Or the main dash harness clamp!
You did a nice job with them.By the way those 67 Factory retrace cad drawings I forwarded are only as good as Chrysler released! The 68 drawings are better and the 69 were much better. Sometimes you have to look at all three to get the whole picture. There are many subtle differences though and should only be used as overall reference year to year. They changed back-up lights and neutral safety among other things each year. The factory 67 drawings did not include all the optional wiring that may be present, least I have not found them to re-produce. 67 was the first year and they only sent out a supplement for Barracuda to the main shop manual.
Try to follow the current paths. Positive origin from -> to.Well another change.... radio wires...
68
White wire doubled up with red/tracer and orange (all 3 wires 18 gauge)
White > "D" cavity in b/h
Red/tracer > to "RADIO" hole in fuseblock.
Orange > #5 cavity turn signal connector.
67
Red/tracer 18 gauge > fuseblock
2 orange wires(18 gauge) doubled up, 1 wire> #5 cavity t/s connector.
2nd orange wire >round plug at circuit board(uh oh) for inst lamps.
Gotta think about this one.
Got nice fuseblock, b/h connector and dimmer switch plug from barracudakid so I think I've gathered all I need to finish up the harness. Keep coming across wiring changes
You did a nice job with them. View attachment 1715478368
Its odd but the supp doesn't have the circuit coding for the instrument diagram where its most helpful. It seems like it went out the door a little less finished. I verified the 2 speed wiper switch connections against mine last night. View attachment 1715478369
I'm sympathetic with extending wires or adding connections, but it seems like asking for problems. Between the tips and photos here etc, and the 67 Supplement, I was able to reach everything without too much contortion or difficulty. The two points of difficulty were the heater control mounting screws and the unexpected ground wire. The heater screws might have been easier with the panel partially out. IIRC thats what I did 25 years ago when I was working with only the 68 FSM for guidance. This time I wanted to remove all screws and bezels I could with the panel firmly mounted to the dash.
The downside of extensions is more wire too stuff in there without strain on the connectors. And to my thinking, every additional splice and connection is something that could go wrong.
Try to follow the current paths. Positive origin from -> to.
Power comes from the fuse box to the radio on a red wire. If white joins it and goes to 'D' cavity of bulkhead, does it join different color wire ( black or red again) in the terminal that takes 12 volts to the turn signal switch? Is there a wire outside that 'D' of bulkhead? I'm guessing not.
I don't know where 67 got 12 volts to turn signal switch. Could be directly from fuse box.
I'm pretty sure the wire from brake lamp switch to turn signal switch is white. They wouldn't have 2 of same color (white) going to that connector. So to pick up 12 volts at radio connector with a white jumper needs to change colors and join the front signal wires etc... to/from the turn signal switch, (taped into same harness). Like I said before, they would move things around to simplify or simply to save a little wire.
Orange to turn signal switch connector is for a column shift indicator lamp. That may be common to all, floor shift or not.
I know the rally panel has 2 circuit boards, needs orange wire to both. In 67 harness there is a weld splice buried under tape where this wire branches. Maybe they got them from 2 different locations in the 68 harness to delete that weld splice.
I couldn't sort it all on a computer screen. I need printed on paper side by side to sort all these differences.
I forgot the 12 volts goes to the signal flasher and changes color again there before going to signal switch.
I was remembering a 72 harness when I said white went to bulkhead and changed colors before going to signal switch and skipped the flasher where it changed again. I was guessing the 68 is same.
At brake lamp switch 12 volts is pink in and white out to signal switch.
Steve, I don't have a printer, well I do have a old printer but no ink. I just can't do it on pc screen. My mind doesn't stay on track that good. On paper I can do side by side comparison, use highlighters, etc...
I'm sure you and Matt will finger it out.
Reverse lamp switch for automatic trans was inside the cabin on column or console shifter until about April 68. Then it went out the bulkhead to switch on trans. Reverse lamp switch for manuals trans was always through bulkhead. My 67 diagram shows white in 'H' cavity.Ok in 68 white wire to "D" b/h cavity leads to backup lamp switch(a/t). Not to confuse but violet at "C" also leads to backup switch.
For 67 the b/u switch has me confused....18 ga white and a 18 ga violet. Hard to tell if white comes from bulkhead (H cavity) or if white is from Wiper switch??
18 ga violet leads to #4 cavity "to body wiring"> to b/u lights.
Wheres the dynamite emoji? Lol
You did a nice job with them. View attachment 1715478368
Its odd but the supp doesn't have the circuit coding for the instrument diagram where its most helpful. It seems like it went out the door a little less finished. I verified the 2 speed wiper switch connections against mine last night. View attachment 1715478369
I'm sympathetic with extending wires or adding connections, but it seems like asking for problems. Between the tips and photos here etc, and the 67 Supplement, I was able to reach everything without too much contortion or difficulty. The two points of difficulty were the heater control mounting screws and the unexpected ground wire. The heater screws might have been easier with the panel partially out. IIRC thats what I did 25 years ago when I was working with only the 68 FSM for guidance. This time I wanted to remove all screws and bezels I could with the panel firmly mounted to the dash.
The downside of extensions is more wire too stuff in there without strain on the connectors. And to my thinking, every additional splice and connection is something that could go wrong.
@4spdragtop
Maybe the way to do this without driving yourself crazy is work from the harness that needs repair.
Is it a '67 fastback?
Lay that one out on a bench or even better a board.
Tag the bad terminals or whatever needs repairs or replacing.
Then go over to your '68 harness and diagram. See if that one wire or circuit is the same. If it is transfer it. (Unrwap the harness tape, etc)
Do all that you'ld like to replace.
Then any bad ones that aren't one to one swaps will need to be repaired or spliced.
Steve, did you not replace a harness on the 67 with a 69 at some point. Seem to remember you had some issues and did not have the correct piece! Or Am I thinking the opposite with the 69 vert.
Thanks guys, it is a 67 fastback. Car is in storage(hour away). Non heated.
I had some elec issues going back to 2018. I wrestled most of the summer on it, with little success. Said f**k it and it's still sitting. Seeing as how I had a couple spare harness and a spare 67 dash frame, I thought I would be "proactive" and redo the spare dash at home and swap it in the spring.
May just sell or trade both cudas as a pkg if you know anyone?
Keep the 67 it was your pop’s right? You would regret that at some point!