Rebuilt 904 w/ tf2 shifting woes...

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Oh quick funny story- when I was messing with the car earlier a day the wife was putting the baby down for a nap, I forgot the wife said she was going up there to put her down. I started the car and like everyone else's its pretty loud especially with the choke during first startup. My daughter apparently popped up from almost asleep and was like " Up, up, dada dada... and started waving her finger," that means we have a mopar girl #2 in the house...

She didn't want to pose just now...

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AJ/FormS said:
well now, that presents a conundrum. With a 10.5 advertised compression ratio, you should be having plenty of torque/power.
Have you done a compression test? and if yes, what were the results?
Ima thinking I went down the wrong road, and the compression test should prove it.
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Compression test on engine? Yes. Results were good. I can't remember all the #s but it was mid 150s except for 2 that were in the mid 140s (if my old age memory serves me correctly)

Pressure test on transmission? No. We were going to but Tony couldn't find his transmission pressure tester lol.
 
Ok. Tested and tinkered with it a little more. Under normal driving load (normal driving gas pedal pressure) my shifts are about 18ish 1-2 and 29-30mph 2-3rd. No chirping or hard shifts, slight spooling of the 2nd-3rd shift in the tc but not to bad. I think I may adjust it a smidgen further and call it a day.

Then I guess we need more torques and more tc in the future to chirp tires all day long and 2x on Sundays haha.
 
This is why I still have a Manual Valvebody in my 73 Duster.....I could never get it adjusted right....Unfortunately the manual valve body prices these days are high....
 
70aarcuda said:
This is why I still have a Manual Valvebody in my 73 Duster.....I could never get it adjusted right....Unfortunately the manual valve body prices these days are high....
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Hey bud! Yea its a pain adjusting. I swear i had it adjusted and somehow it adjusted out of wack after not driving for a while... Manual vb and B&M shifter may be a good idea one day....
 
DentalDart said:
Ok. Tested and tinkered with it a little more. Under normal driving load (normal driving gas pedal pressure) my shifts are about 18ish 1-2 and 29-30mph 2-3rd. No chirping or hard shifts, slight spooling of the 2nd-3rd shift in the tc but not to bad. I think I may adjust it a smidgen further and call it a day.

Then I guess we need more torques and more tc in the future to chirp tires all day long and 2x on Sundays haha.
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If it’s spooling then u don’t have the kd set up enough or enough line pressureHow many turns did u adjust the line pressure too? Do 6 turns lie it says for race. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
If it’s spooling then u don’t have the kd set up enough or enough line pressureHow many turns did u adjust the line pressure too? Do 6 turns lie it says for race. Kim
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To do the line pressure you have to drop the pan yes? Everything was adjusted to stock specs.

If its the KDthen id have to back off and loosen it a touch right? If I tightened it, it spools a little worse.
 
oldkimmer said:
Yes remove the pan. It’s the Allen wrench adjustment. Street is 0 turns. Race is 6 turns. Where did u set it. Kim
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What ever I was advised to set it to which were also factory specs. I don't remember the exact turns are, nor do I have a TF transmission book, Tony brought his over.
 
Don’t u have ur TF -2 shift kit instructions? U don’t set ur tranny clearances to factory spec when u install that kit. Was ur separator plate drilled anywhere b4 this kit was installed. Did u completely remove the old shift ki? Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
Don’t u have ur TF -2 shift kit instructions? U don’t set ur tranny clearances to factory spec when u install that kit. Was ur separator plate drilled anywhere b4 this kit was installed. Did u completely remove the old shift ki? Kim
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Completely new unmodified vb.

This is where we set it to.

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What are the clutch pack clearances? Did u put a blocker rod in the accumulator? How many turns if any on the pressure regulator? What size did u drill the seoerator plate too? Did u install the new manual valve and adjust it properly. What else did u do or didn’t do in the kit. Kim
 
DentalDart said:
What ever I was advised to set it to which were also factory specs. I don't remember the exact turns are, nor do I have a TF transmission book, Tony brought his over.
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You're in good hands if Tony is helping you...
The line adjustment, as Kim has said, is way more than stock. Usually measured from the VB to the adjuster to be 1 1/4".
The cable moves the Throttle Valve inside the VB. The problem usually is, the TV bore has wear in it from lots of miles on it. So EVERY VB is going to be a little bit different from any other. Trial and error will get you there.
 
To make setting the line-pressure easier, I drilled and tapped a port in the appropriate place to access the adjuster without having to drop the pan. Now I can adjust it in mere minutes, with no mess.
 
AJ/FormS said:
To make setting the line-pressure easier, I drilled and tapped a port in the appropriate place to access the adjuster without having to drop the pan. Now I can adjust it in mere minutes, with no mess.
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That is a great idea, but that is a little out of my comfort zone for what I'm willing to do lol.
 
67 posts and still no closer to a solution? See, this is what happens when you throw terminology around like "stock, factory specs, spooling", and there are several more in this thread..
 
oldkimmer said:
What are the clutch pack clearances? Did u put a blocker rod in the accumulator? How many turns if any on the pressure regulator? What size did u drill the seoerator plate too? Did u install the new manual valve and adjust it properly. What else did u do or didn’t do in the kit. Kim
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Clutch pack clearances were within factory spec
Accumulator has a blocker rod.
Drilled the plate to the largest drill bit on the tf2 instructions
New manual valve in and the vb was ground where the manual valve inserts as seen in the instructions

The PR valve is set to flush against the retainer as it is stated to do so in street applications. For full race applications you set it to 4 turns counter-clockwise.

Only thing not done to the VB which is "optional" per the instructions is the downshift command feature. To do this you have to grind the governer valve.

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CudaFactHackJob said:
67 posts and still no closer to a solution? See, this is what happens when you throw terminology around like "stock, factory specs, spooling", and there are several more in this thread..
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We are closer to a solution :thumbsup: the car is driving much better now. 1-2nd shift under normal throttle is roughly 18mph, 2nd-3rd shift is roughly 30mph. The word "spooling" is a nice descriptive word to describe what the transmission was doing before shifting into 3rd. The 1-2nd shift is still soft, and the 2nd-3rd is softer as well, but this is under normal throttle, I haven't really laid into the throttle yet as I haven't gotten to drive the car since Sunday evening.

I dont have a transmission book to tell you what the factory specs of the clutch packs should be... let me Google the factory clearances and ill post the range mine were in...

I think these are them, the #s sound about right found on Moparts. "(the one @ the rear) - .028"-.034"

High gear clutch pack - .060"-.070""

The rebuild kit I used was a "stock" 904tf rebuild kit with thin discs.

I wish I had 100% correct terminology all of the time but unfortunately I dont. I also can't work on the car every day due to school and family. Heck yesterday I took my licensure exam...
 
Adjust the line pressure up to the 4 turns. There is always leakage in used/worn valve bodies. What year is the tranny and valve body? Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
Adjust the line pressure up to the 4 turns. There is always leakage in used/worn valve bodies. What year is the tranny and valve body? Kim
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The tranny is from a 69 dart custom. The VB was in my 68 727 transmission, but it is from a 71 car I believe because it has a part throttle kick down valve body.

I will try adjusting it out and when I do I'll report back. I really hate dropping the pan, so I'll probably do it after I tinker with my kd cable a touch more.
 
Is the vb in post 71 the one you installed? Did you keep both original vb halves together? But you said the converter was spooling, not the trans...Did the motor rev onn the 2-3 shift? Would you actually describe how you adjusted the manual valve rather than "per the instructions"? Because obviously, somewhere, somehow; instructions were not followed.
 
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